CramCycle wrote: » I think its a silly idea, replace each tyre as it needs to be replaced. The effort of switching tyres around to gain something seems ridiculous, they either grip or not . You don't save money, or get any extra value and the claims of increased grip etc seem negligible unless you had really sh1t tyres.
magicbastarder wrote: » i would assume that a reasonably worn tyre would have the same grip levels as a new one, the issue i thought would be more to do with puncture protection/prevention.
magicbastarder wrote: » take a pic of your bike - one issue might be saddle position/angle. should be easy enough for someone here to tell you if your saddle is at the wrong angle, before you go changing it.
Hairy Japanese BASTARDS! wrote: » Thanks. Much obliged.
ED E wrote: » Anyone had issues with 6800 casettes coming loose over time? Third time its happened now. Fairly sure I glued it last time I tightened it.
CramCycle wrote: » Would your lockring be worn or could the freehub threads be poor? Happened once with a SRAM cassette but I put it down to being undertightened.
seamus wrote: » Seems like an odd one alright. If there's a spacer missing (i.e. the cassette is slightly too small for the hub), then the rattling might shake the lockrig free. Other thought is that the frame and lockring are coming into contact in some way. This would cause the lockring to come undone when pedalling forward. Was the axle ever removed? If the cones weren't reset in the correct place, then the frame might be just a hair too close to the hub, and is rubbing the lockring, perhaps when flexing under load.
magicbastarder wrote: » looks like there's a slight tilt backwards in the saddle, might be worth angling the nose down first and seeing if that makes any difference. also, it can help to get up out of the saddle occasionally to pedal standing up, just to take the pressure off and to let the blood flow through.
cletus wrote: » So, being annoyed that the wheels I got don't fit (at least the rear doesn't), I decided to do what any sensible person would, and take the axle apart to see was there any way to Jerry rig it to fit. Having removed two spacers, the distance between overlocking nuts (o.l.d., I think) is now 125mm. So the axle fits between the dropouts. I now have two options open to me. a) run one of the spacers on the outside of the dropout to take up the excess space (less than ideal) b) cut off enough of the axle to allow the qr skewer to tighten up on the dropouts. Is there any reason not to go for option b?
Type 17 wrote: » You can cut the axle no problem, but you'll need to check the indexing on the cassette and the dishing of the rim.
Type 17 wrote: » What size is your tyre?
MadYaker wrote: » I got a Speialized allez elite a few days ago. Its the nicest bike I've owned so far and I want to maintain it properly, what basic stuff should I be doing? I commute by bike so I'll be doing about 10k a day on it. In the past I've had cheap bikes and just brought them to a shop when the brakes went or whatever but I want to look after this one properly.
A quick excerpt from a basic bike maintenance class i've done with a few groups... Bear in mind this is a simplified list for people who have never picked up a spanner in their lives! BICYCLE CHECKS SCHEDULE DAILY SAFETY CHECKS – BEFORE YOU RIDE · Give your bike a shake! Rattles mean something is loose! · Check tyre pressures – pump if necessary. · Are brakes working? · Wheels secure and turning freely? WEEKLY CHECK · Handlebars straight and secure? · Saddle straight and secure? · Check brake pad alignment – pads squeezing the rim = good; pads touching the tyre = bad! · Clean wheel rims where brake pads touch rim. MONTHLY CHECK · Check your tyre treads – any bald spots, cracks or bulges are unsafe and require replacement of the tyre. · Check your brake pads for wear (wear indicator), replace as required. · Check gears are changing smoothly, not jumping or rattling – if so, bring to your bike mechanic. · Check brake and gear cables for corrosion (rust) or fraying. · Clean, degrease and re-lubricate your chain. ANNUAL CHECK · Once a year, you should bring your bike to your local bike mechanic for a full service and safety check – he/she can answer any queries or concerns you may have.
cletus wrote: » I'm hoping to change this to a single speed, so indexing shouldn't be an issue. Dishing is another matter. Is there a simple way to check this?
magicbastarder wrote: » it's the old story about strapping on a pair of runners when yourself and your mate are being chased by a bear. the thieves will prefer low hanging fruit. if they can't cycle away on the bike, they might lose interest, so storing the front wheel inside may be an idea. slightly complicates storing the bike though.
magicbastarder wrote: » first one is chain maintenance. lube your chain every week or two (you can go longer if you're cycling in dry weather, shorter if cycling in the wet), and importantly, always wipe the excess lube off the chain. if you don't, it attracts grit and grime which will act like an abrasive. is that a disc brake bike? or rim brakes?
