the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

hesker

tdf7187 wrote: »

Ah ok thanks. Edit: do you not mean lowest gear?

I would guess Type 17 means big front small back. Certainly do that test if that is the official one but I'll be honest from the photos you posted it doesn't look too long to me.

You could simulate what removing a few links would do by just putting a suitably sized object in between the big chainring and the chain. Or pull out the chain and fold over a couple of links.

I'd check also if your derailleur is pivoting freely where it is attached at the derailleur hanger.

07Lapierre

tdf7187 wrote: »

Can anyone help me with this, the gap between my rear derailleur and cassette seems far too large. Everywhere I look online says the gap should be between 5 and 9 mm depending on the bike, it is much larger than that on mine. I tried adjusting the gap adjuster ("B Screw") to little effect. Gear change functions ok, could be a little smoother:

How old is the chain and derailleur? They look well used/old in the photo? Is the derailleur working? Can you select all the gears?

If you put the bike in a work stand, remove the chain from the chainset and see if the derailleur moves freely? Maybe the main spring is clogged with dirt and is not allowing the derailleur to move up towards the cassette?

tdf7187

hesker wrote: »

I would guess tdf7187 means big front small back. Certainly do that test if that is the official one but I'll be honest from the photos you posted it doesn't look too long to me.

You could simulate what removing a few links would do by just putting a suitably sized object in between the big chainring and the chain. Or pull out the chain and fold over a couple of links.

I'd check also if your derailleur is pivoting freely where it is attached at the derailleur hanger.

Too late I'm afraid I've already removed a link. It's working fine, seems smoother.

tdf7187

07Lapierre wrote: »

How old is the chain and derailleur? They look well used/old in the photo? Is the derailleur working? Can you select all the gears?

If you put the bike in a work stand, remove the chain from the chainset and see if the derailleur moves freely? Maybe the main spring is clogged with dirt and is not allowing the derailleur to move up towards the cassette?

Chain and derailleur each under 6 months. Left out in the rain so may look older. Edit: They are actually older than I thought, 8 months, I looked at my receipts. Derailleur is working fine in the sense that I can select all gears but there is slippage on a small number of them (however, I haven't checked if any improvement since I did the adjustments referred to below).

I don't have a work stand unfortunately. The situation has improved since I unscrewed the B screw almost all the way out and removed some links from the chain.

Brian?

tdf7187 wrote: »

Chain and derailleur each under 6 months. Left out in the rain so may look older. Edit: They are actually older than I thought, 8 months, I looked at my receipts. Derailleur is working fine in the sense that I can select all gears but there is slippage on a small number of them (however, I haven't checked if any improvement since I did the adjustments referred to below).

I don't have a work stand unfortunately. The situation has improved since I unscrewed the B screw almost all the way out and removed some links from the chain.

Give your drive chain a good clean or there are more problems coming.

Type 17

tdf7187 wrote: »

Ah ok thanks. Edit: do you not mean lowest gear?

The lowest gear is smallest ring / biggest sprocket and the highest gear is biggest ring / smallest sprocket.

It's the ratio between input and output that gives us the term 'gear ratios'.

Vehicle gears are described as high or low because a low gear has a low output (wheel-speed) for a given input (pedal or engine-speed), and a high gear has a relatively high output for a given input.

Type 17

Brian? wrote: »

Use blue loctite and it'll be ok to remove. Don't use red

Speedplay cleat screws come pre coated in loctite, I'm surprised more don't

For anyone interested, here's a good webpage from Loctite about their various thread locking products and which one to use across different applications - useful technical stuff, rather than marketing blurb.

Brian?

Type 17 wrote: »

For anyone interested, here's a good webpage from Loctite about their various thread locking products and which one to use across different applications - useful technical stuff, rather than marketing blurb.

Interesting, I have only ever used 243 or 277.

I would advise anyone to use 243 on cleat screws, but I see this recommends 222 on bolts smaller than M6 so that's probably a better option.

It's important to only ever use one drop per screw as well!

Type 17

I'd be happy to use 243 on cleats because the torque needs to be relatively high for these small bolts, and 243 is rated for higher torques than 222.
However, even using 222 (or grease) is better than dry assembly, because wet (salty in winter) spray from the front wheel causes the bolts to rust solid, and then the Allen heads round out...

g0g

I know it's a MTB question not road bike, but more likely to be seen more in this thread. Looking at the Vitus Nucleus MTB and I see it has a "Box Four" 1X setup 8 speed. Has anyone come across this setup on other bikes and know much about it? I'm wondering for maintenance/repairs if those parts will be more difficult to come by or are becoming common? Any advice appreciated!
"For 2021 the Nucleus has received a threaded bottom bracket for increased durability and a wide range groupset thanks to the new Box Four drivetrain. A clutch activated rear mech, and a narrow-wide 1x chainring up front will keep you on the trails all day."

Type 17

I've only heard of them, and not used/serviced them, but they look ok, and the page for the 1x8 stuff has compatibility info, and it looks like it works with most Shimano standards (derailleur hangers, freehub bodies, etc), so should be ok.

I've no idea if their stuff works well or not, but the online reviews do look very good.

tdf7187

My derailleur manual says:

Gear Combination Largest sprocket to guide pulley distance
11-42T 5-6mm
11-36T 5-6mm
11-34T 5-6mm
11-32T 9-10mm

But the spec for my bike, a Carrera Crossfire, says the gear combination ratio is 14-28 which isn't listed above.

I should mention derailleur isn't the original, which was destroyed in an unfortunate incident involving some plastic tarpaulin.

How do I translate the ratio into the appropriate distance?

Edit: that said, the new derailleur the bike shop installed looks v similar to the original:

07Lapierre

tdf7187 wrote: »

My derailleur manual says:

Gear Combination Largest sprocket to guide pulley distance
11-42T 5-6mm
11-36T 5-6mm
11-34T 5-6mm
11-32T 9-10mm

But the spec for my bike, a Carrera Crossfire, says the gear combination ratio is 14-28 which isn't listed above.

I should mention derailleur isn't the original, which was destroyed in an unfortunate incident involving some plastic tarpaulin.

How do I translate the ratio into the appropriate distance?

Edit: the said, the new derailleur the bike shop installed looks v similar to the original:

Just adjust the B screw so the chain touches the 28 cog. Then unscrew the B screw by 1/4 or 1/2 turn, spin the pedals and see how the chain moves up and down the cassette. Repeat until its smooth. that's what id do anyway.

Pdoghue

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

Some of the earlier BH Quartz had QR before they switched to thru-axle. Which is yours? AFAIK they always used 1.125 to 1.5 tapered steerers. This type of carbon fork with thru-axles is the de-facto standard now and on almost every new mid to high level disc brake bike. It should be fairly easy to find, even from BH!

This saga is never ending!! I finally found out that BH don't make the QR compatible forks any more (my bike is 2017 model), so I have to get the thru-axle version (12 mm). I have to therefore get a new front wheel now. How do I know which front wheel is compatible with the new fork? And do I have to get a new rotor for the wheel?

tdf7187

07Lapierre wrote: »

Just adjust the B screw so the chain touches the 28 cog. Then unscrew the B screw by 1/4 or 1/2 turn, spin the pedals and see how the chain moves up and down the cassette. Repeat until its smooth. that's what id do anyway.

I've pretty much done that and it's fine. Guess there's no point in obsessing over the distance unless anyone else has input on the matter.

DaveyDave

Pdoghue wrote: »

This saga is never ending!! I finally found out that BH don't make the QR compatible forks any more (my bike is 2017 model), so I have to get the thru-axle version (12 mm). I have to therefore get a new front wheel now. How do I know which front wheel is compatible with the new fork? And do I have to get a new rotor for the wheel?

Most disc wheels should be 12mm thru axle as standard but some also support QR or 15mm with adaptors. You can use your old rotor if it matches the wheel, if it's 6 bolt rotor on a Centrelock wheel you can get an adaptor which is probably cheaper than buying a new rotor.

Bolt thru = thru axle. HH12 = 12mm.

Keep in mind Centrelock have two lockrings, external toothing (bottom bracket style) or internal toothing (cassette style)

07Lapierre

tdf7187 wrote: »

I've pretty much done that and it's fine. Guess there's no point in obsessing over the distance unless anyone else has input on the matter.

nah the distance measurements are more "recommendations" than an absolute requirement.

I've to fit a new Campag from derailleur over the weekend. Campagnolo recommend using a special tool to measure the distance from the chainring to the derailleur cage. I just use my eye and place it where it looks right.

no way i'm paying €60 for a piece of plastic...

https://www.ninefit.ie/products/campagnolo-front-derailleur-alignment-tools-v2?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIipTl14fb8AIVlB4YCh3qGw6cEAQYASABEgIFsvD_BwE

DaveyDave

07Lapierre wrote: »

nah the distance measurements are more "recommendations" than an absolute requirement.

I've to fit a new Campag from derailleur over the weekend. Campagnolo recommend using a special tool to measure the distance from the chainring to the derailleur cage. I just use my eye and place it where it looks right.

no way i'm paying €60 for a piece of plastic...

https://www.ninefit.ie/products/campagnolo-front-derailleur-alignment-tools-v2?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIipTl14fb8AIVlB4YCh3qGw6cEAQYASABEgIFsvD_BwE

Reduced from €100, what a bargain!

Wishbone Ash

07Lapierre wrote: »

....no way i'm paying €60 for a piece of plastic...

https://www.ninefit.ie/products/campagnolo-front-derailleur-alignment-tools-v2?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIipTl14fb8AIVlB4YCh3qGw6cEAQYASABEgIFsvD_BwE

DaveyDave wrote: »

Reduced from €100, what a bargain!

We could organise a Boards bulk buy! :pac:

07Lapierre

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

We could organise a Boards bulk buy! :pac:

Here's one that's a bit more reasonable.... but its still mad money for a piece of plastic!

https://www.onbuy.com/gb/campagnolo-front-mech-alignment-tool~c12544~p28849843/?exta=gshpgbie&stat=eyJpcCI6IjE3Ljk5IiwiZHAiOjAsImxpZCI6IjM5NjUyODE3IiwicyI6IjEiLCJ0IjoxNjIxMTczNDMwLCJibWMiOiIwLjAifQ==&lid=39652817&ocid=ie&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkrHZ55Lb8AIVk6iyCh3sEAduEAQYASABEgLGffD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Pdoghue

DaveyDave wrote: »

Most disc wheels should be 12mm thru axle as standard but some also support QR or 15mm with adaptors. You can use your old rotor if it matches the wheel, if it's 6 bolt rotor on a Centrelock wheel you can get an adaptor which is probably cheaper than buying a new rotor.

Bolt thru = thru axle. HH12 = 12mm.

Keep in mind Centrelock have two lockrings, external toothing (bottom bracket style) or internal toothing (cassette style)

Thanks!! I'll have to do some investigation to see what wheel will match the rotor. I've no idea right now. Do you know of any website that shows compatibility between wheels, rotors and forks? It does make me wistful for a bog standard non-carbon rim brake set up..

Wishbone Ash

07Lapierre wrote: »

Here's one that's a bit more reasonable.... but its still mad money for a piece of plastic!

https://www.onbuy.com/gb/campagnolo-front-mech-alignment-tool~c12544~p28849843/?exta=gshpgbie&stat=eyJpcCI6IjE3Ljk5IiwiZHAiOjAsImxpZCI6IjM5NjUyODE3IiwicyI6IjEiLCJ0IjoxNjIxMTczNDMwLCJibWMiOiIwLjAifQ==&lid=39652817&ocid=ie&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkrHZ55Lb8AIVk6iyCh3sEAduEAQYASABEgLGffD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Weird description!

Description & Details
Campagnolo Front Mech Alignment Tool Description
Race ready glove with everything that you need and nothing you don't. Lightweight, breathable and comfortable, the Glotech cycling glove perfectly adapts to any situation whether you are racing, training or on that long epic adventure atop two wheels.

Paul Kiernan

Pdoghue wrote: »

Thanks!! I'll have to do some investigation to see what wheel will match the rotor. I've no idea right now. Do you know of any website that shows compatibility between wheels, rotors and forks? It does make me wistful for a bog standard non-carbon rim brake set up..

What type of wheel (hub) is it? You might be able to convert it from QR to thru-axle which would save you a lot of hassle!

DaveyDave

Pdoghue wrote: »

Thanks!! I'll have to do some investigation to see what wheel will match the rotor. I've no idea right now. Do you know of any website that shows compatibility between wheels, rotors and forks? It does make me wistful for a bog standard non-carbon rim brake set up..

Not sure about any websites but you shouldn't have too much trouble with compatability. Assuming a new fork comes with its own thru axle there won't be issues with the threads of the axle not screwing in. You'll just want to make sure the fork fits your frame/stem etc which is just a general thing.

Once the fork fits, the wheels will be 12mm, I haven't seen something that's only 15mm, but 12mm that can be adapted to QR/15mm (although to be fair, I've only had a bike with disc wheels for a month, I'm sure there's some obscure 15mm only options out there)

Rotor will either be 6 bolt or Centrelock, worst case scenario you'll need an adaptor or new rotor if it doesn't fit. AFS = Centrelock.

It's certainly messy, it doesn't help there's QR disc wheels AND thru axle disc wheels, on top of rim brake options...

tdf7187

At what stage does a rear cassette typically need replacing? Bike is hybrid, 2 years old approx, approx 6,000k on it, mainly commuter type cycling, occasional Wicklow hill/mountain road cycles, no off-road use to speak of.

magicbastarder

General rule is after two or three chains if the chain had been replaced before it gets too worn. If the chain is badly worn it may be easiest to just replace both.

You can pick up chain wear checkers for under a tenner.

tdf7187

Thanks magicb. I'm on my third chain so reckon no harm in a new cassette.

54and56

Anyone familiar with the storage compartment Trek built into the downtube of their current models will know it's a clever but finicky design which involves rolling your spare tube and tyre levers into a velcro closing "sleeve" which is then inserted up into the cavity in the downtube with the cover then inserted and locked using an open / close lever.

It works and means you don't need a saddle bag or to carry the tube and levers in your pockets but whilst I initially wasn't that confident it would handle the pulling and dragging of getting a water bottle in and out of the cage which attached to the storage cover it seems to work albeit a little wobbly.

The reason for my post is that the cover on my Domane has become stuck and won't open when the lever is in the open position, it's like the cover has somehow gotten tangled with the sleeve and no matter what I do, bar rip it off using brute force, it simply won't come off which isn't ideal given I'll need to open it without any issues if I need to deal with a puncture.

I can bring the bike to the LBS I bought it from tomorrow but thought I'd share here first to see if you guys have any ideas or come across a solution to this?

I've Googled etc but can't find any discussion or YouTube video's of it being a problem so maybe I'm just unlucky on this occasion.



EDIT: The retaining rivet (see the black cap highlighted in the photo below) which operates the open/close mechanism in place is just pressed on and that had come loose locking the door closed. LBS got the door open, found the rivet in the storage compartment, refitted it (hopefully better than was originally the case) and I'm back in business. Just thought I'd update for info in case anyone else comes across this problem.

Type 17

It's a bit late to look at it now, but the Trek video about the storage area mentions that you should push the BITS bag fully up inside the frame, only leaving the pull-ribbon under the door. Saying that, if you freeze the vid at 1:28 the two latches look like they expand/retract straight out to the sides, making tangling very unlikely.

If the lever is open and the cover is still latched, the lever may have become detached from the latch (warranty?).

It might be worth visiting a Trek dealer (your LBS?) to look at how the lever/latch works on one of their display bikes, which might help you see what's happening on yours.

54and56

Type 17 wrote: »

It's a bit late to look at it now, but the Trek video about the storage area mentions that you should push the BITS bag fully up inside the frame, only leaving the pull-ribbon under the door. Saying that, if you freeze the vid at 1:28 the two latches look like they expand/retract straight out to the sides, making tangling very unlikely.

If the lever is open and the cover is still latched, the lever may have become detached from the latch (warranty?).

It might be worth visiting a Trek dealer (your LBS?) to look at how the lever/latch works on one of their display bikes, which might help you see what's happening on yours.

Great observation / advice Type 17, appreciate it.

The BITS bag was definitely shoved right up when I installed it but that was 4 months and at least 2,000km ago so over time with road vibration and gravity etc I guess it could have moved back down and is somehow now contributing to this problem.

The LBS where I bought the bike is a Trek dealer so they'll be able to help I'm sure and of the latch has become detached I'm sure they'll sort it for me.

For once I've resisted the temptation to make things worse by applying brute force!!