the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

do you have the model of hub you ordered to hand?

T-Maxx

The Americans in particular are keen to re-brand bog standard lube/oil/grease and market it as God's gift to anti-friction aficionados. Add a funky coloured dye, repack in small containers, slap some witty name on it, and sell for an exorbitant price...Boom!!!

Rechuchote

Ah. I was misinformed, or possibly didn't listen properly; it's the internal parts that are on their way to us. "It's an AB", I'm told. And it seems, possibly, that chainsaw oil is the best.
Know what you mean about branding; Bag Balm was developed for cows' udders; farmers discovered they had lovely hands after using it and boom! it became a hit for keeping ladies' hands lovely too.

Mod is being a massive dick and edited out all of my post and then thread banned me

If you have a question about ebikes then this Facebook group is way more helpful and the mods aren't controling dicks.

https://m.facebook.com/groups/144951402623545/?tsid=0.7738607102565743&source=result

magicbastarder

Clear Air Turbulence - do not post in this thread again. if you've any questions, PM me.

covey123

Hi all, I'm replacing my cassette and chainring on my MTB, currently a 30T chainring and 11-42 Cassette (1x11)
Am I likely to run into issues with the rear mech if I fit a 11-46 cassette?

magicbastarder

what's the rear derailleur? usually there are stated limits for the derailleur - you may be in luck and find that it has the capability to deal with a 46 tooth cassette.

covey123

covey123 wrote: »

Hi all, I'm replacing my cassette and chainring on my MTB, currently a 30T chainring and 11-42 Cassette (1x11)
Am I likely to run into issues with the rear mech if I fit a 11-46 cassette?

I don't see there being any problem with putting in a slightly bigger cassette, derailleurs on mountain bikes are quite flexible in what they will accept.

Rechuchote

magicbastarder wrote: »

do you have the model of hub you ordered to hand?

Sure, here you go, Magic.

Rechuchote

Rechuchote wrote: »

Sure, here you go, Magic.

Unfortunately the image doesn't give us that much information, do you know the name of the groupset and year the bike is from?

Rechuchote

Deleted User wrote: »

Unfortunately the image doesn't give us that much information, do you know the name of the groupset and year the bike is from?

Sturmey-Archer and a Gazelle sit-up bike is all I know, sorry.

Had a look for a serial number but it just says "Sturmey-Archer 07 England", as far as I can see.

Type 17

It looks like an AB (the B=brake). The there is also an AG (generator) hub, and the regular 3-speed AW hub (W=wide, there were also closer-ratio hubs).

You can change the axle easily enough (there are different lengths for different frame applications, hopefully you got the same length, or one that will work with the Gazelle).

No harm to have a spare set of internals, the newer Sturmey-Archer stuff isn't made of such good metal as the older ones. so stuff like chipped pawls are more common these days.

You can use any medium to thick oil (not watery stuff like WD-40 or GT-85), but don't put too much in - this isn't one of the more modern gear hubs like Shimano Alfine, that is almost filled with oil, like a car gearbox, it just needs to have all the parts damp or wet with oil, not immersed in it. If you you try to fill it, the oil will flow out past the bearings and destroy the brake shoes.

Rechuchote

Where do you get these oils and what are they called, please?

Type 17

Any dribble-oil will do (an oil like Three-in-One that is supplied in a container with a dribbly spout). You can also use lighter automotive oils like lawnmower oil, but even regular engine oil would be fine.

Once it's not thin enough to evaporate (so aerosol lubes are out), the grade of oil isn't critical because, unlike engines, or high-speed machinery like vehicle hubs, bike parts don't rotate fast enough or handle enough loads to get hot, so the concept of the wrong grade of oil breaking down and allowing damage to occur is not an issue (on bikes, damage occurs through lack of lubricant, or water ingress causing oil breakdown).

covey123

magicbastarder wrote: »

what's the rear derailleur? usually there are stated limits for the derailleur - you may be in luck and find that it has the capability to deal with a 46 tooth cassette.

It's a Sram GX looks like it should clear a bigger cassette.

So I recently got burned not looking up standards/sizes, would there be any issues with compatibility with the following;

Cassette ;
https://www.probikeshop.com/en/gb/sunrace-11-speed-cassette-csmx8-eaz-box-m/142272.html

Chainring ;
https://www.probikeshop.com/en/gb/funn-solo-96-narrow-wide-96-mm-11-speed-single-chainring-shimano-xtr-m9000-m9020-xt-m8000-4-arms-black/125112.html

To fit XT rear hub and SLX FC-M7000-11 (BCD bolts are not equidistant on this crank)

I'm assuming any brand chain will do?

gucci

Can you help me here? I need to replace these brakes.
They are cantilever type, but I don't really seem to be able to find anything that looks like the connection shaft (online)
The shaft is 6.75mm diameter.

Would this kind of thing work?

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-m947-cantilever-post-brake-pads?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=100319606&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=&utm_medium=base&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2NyFBhDoARIsAMtHtZ7_LMuWb_KU1f8Q7dfvkCdJ3WobGgUMQeiBNyA-lByU6TcwSpTJa88aAhPXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

magicbastarder

covey123 wrote: »

It's a Sram GX looks like it should clear a bigger cassette.

if it's this one, it officially has a max capacity of 42T. you can be guaranteed there's wiggle room built in though.

https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/rd-gx-1-a1

Zen0

gucci wrote: »

Can you help me here? I need to replace these brakes.
They are cantilever type, but I don't really seem to be able to find anything that looks like the connection shaft (online)
The shaft is 6.75mm diameter.

Would this kind of thing work?

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-m947-cantilever-post-brake-pads?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=100319606&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=&utm_medium=base&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2NyFBhDoARIsAMtHtZ7_LMuWb_KU1f8Q7dfvkCdJ3WobGgUMQeiBNyA-lByU6TcwSpTJa88aAhPXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Yes, they should fit.

Seth Brundle

I'm unable to change from the centre ring on my hybrid - Shimano Acera 9*3 speed).
When I try to change gear, it seems that the cable at the derailleur slackens or tightens as appropriate but the derailleur mechanism doesn't move at all. I don't seem to be able to get it to move in any way. Tried using WD40 but there's still no change.
Am I correct in assuming that I simply need to replace it?
I see it available in CRC @ €29 - is it possible to get it from an Irish supplier around this price?

I assume that installing the new derailleur is simply the reversal of the removal process.

When replacing, is it advisable to replace the cable also? Any particular ones to go for or will the likes of this suit?

magicbastarder

what happens if you undo the clamp for the cable? can you manipulate the FD by hand?

Brian?

Seth Brundle wrote: »

I'm unable to change from the centre ring on my hybrid - Shimano Acera 9*3 speed).
When I try to change gear, it seems that the cable at the derailleur slackens or tightens as appropriate but the derailleur mechanism doesn't move at all. I don't seem to be able to get it to move in any way. Tried using WD40 but there's still no change.
Am I correct in assuming that I simply need to replace it?
I see it available in CRC @ €29 - is it possible to get it from an Irish supplier around this price?

I assume that installing the new derailleur is simply the reversal of the removal process.

When replacing, is it advisable to replace the cable also? Any particular ones to go for or will the likes of this suit?

Take off the cable and chain. Wd40 the spring in the derailleur and move the derailleur back and forward by hand a load of times. You should feel it free up.


If it's already free and easy by hand. There is something broken and it needs to be replaced

Seth Brundle

magicbastarder wrote: »

what happens if you undo the clamp for the cable? can you manipulate the FD by hand?

Brian? wrote: »

Take off the cable and chain. Wd40 the spring in the derailleur and move the derailleur back and forward by hand a load of times. You should feel it free up.


If it's already free and easy by hand. There is something broken and it needs to be replaced

I'll try these later, thanks.

nicksnikita

Seth Brundle wrote: »

I'm unable to change from the centre ring on my hybrid - Shimano Acera 9*3 speed).
When I try to change gear, it seems that the cable at the derailleur slackens or tightens as appropriate but the derailleur mechanism doesn't move at all. I don't seem to be able to get it to move in any way. Tried using WD40 but there's still no change.
Am I correct in assuming that I simply need to replace it?
I see it available in CRC @ €29 - is it possible to get it from an Irish supplier around this price?

I assume that installing the new derailleur is simply the reversal of the removal process.

When replacing, is it advisable to replace the cable also? Any particular ones to go for or will the likes of this suit?

Have a look on YouTube for ‘front derailleur troubleshooting’ or google fd won’t move to big ring. Plenty of results there.

There’s a fair few possible causes but most are simple fixes without dismantling (unless something is broken)

One possible cause is a slight loss in cable tension. Here’s how to check that:
Move the shifter to the position that corresponds to the big ring.
Have the chain say third from smallest cog on the rear.
Add extra tension to the fd cable by gripping it with your hand and pulling it.
If the FD moves outward (towards the big ring) under the additional tension, then you know the cable tension is insufficient...

cletus

Are you letting the glue go off before applying the patch? It shouldn't go on to "wet" glue (or more correctly, rubber cement)

Brian?

I throw the tubes out and put in new ones. For the amount of punctures I get it's not worth my time repairing them.

I haven't had a puncture in over a year, at a guess.

nomdeboardie

cletus wrote: »

Are you letting the glue go off before applying the patch? It shouldn't go on to "wet" glue (or more correctly, rubber cement)

(Sorry, I deleted and am reuploading!)

Yes, think I'm waiting long enough - doing as have done sucessfully in past. Thanks

nomdeboardie

The last 2 punctures I got have been in the inner tube product pictured below, and I've failed to patch them with the repair kit shown in the same photo. The patch goes on OK initially, but when I put it into the wheel-tyre and inflate it fails before reaching normal operating pressure. When I take it out and try inflating again I see a leak from a point on the edge. The first time this happened I tried repatching a couple of times before giving up and putting in a new tube. This time I knew it was futile to try again and put in another new tube. I know some people will tell me that patches are not meant to last, but I've had good results in the past. Plus, tubes are not cheap, and I don’t want to try bulk-buying online as I just don't get enough punctures to make it practical, assuming they have a limited shelf-life.

Some possibilities about the patching:
(1) The kit is crap (can't remember if I had used it successfully before the latest 2 attempts, though)
(2) The patches and/or glue in it have passed their shelf-life (can't remember when I bought it)
(3) Mechanical mismatch? Perhaps the patches are just too big for these skinny tubes, as patch diameter is greater than the width of the flattened tube (half-circumference), so they have to be 'wrapped' around awkwardly when applying, and maybe the overall curvature is too stressful when inflated (OK, now I'm just making stuff up)

I'll have to get more tubes and repair materials, so any thoughts/recommendations welcome

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=554868&stc=1&d=1622745847

PS - aploogies to the 2 people who replied above while I re-uploaded this!

Brian?

nomdeboardie wrote: »

The last 2 punctures I got have been in the inner tube product pictured below, and I've failed to patch them with the repair kit shown in the same photo. The patch goes on OK initially, but when I put it into the wheel-tyre and inflate it fails before reaching normal operating pressure. When I take it out and try inflating again I see a leak from a point on the edge. The first time this happened I tried repatching a couple of times before giving up and putting in a new tube. This time I knew it was futile to try again and put in another new tube. I know some people will tell me that patches are not meant to last, but I've had good results in the past. Plus, tubes are not cheap, and I don’t want to try bulk-buying online as I just don't get enough punctures to make it practical, assuming they have a limited shelf-life.

Some possibilities about the patching:
(1) The kit is crap (can't remember if I had used it successfully before the latest 2 attempts, though)
(2) The patches and/or glue in it have passed their shelf-life (can't remember when I bought it)
(3) Mechanical mismatch? Perhaps the patches are just too big for these skinny tubes, as patch diameter is greater than the width of the flattened tube (half-circumference), so they have to be 'wrapped' around awkwardly when applying, and maybe the overall curvature is too stressful when inflated (OK, now I'm just making stuff up)

I'll have to get more tubes and repair materials, so any thoughts/recommendations welcome

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=554868&stc=1&d=1622745847

PS - aploogies to the 2 people who replied above while I re-uploaded this!

How often are you getting punctures?

nomdeboardie

Brian? wrote: »

How often are you getting punctures?

That's the thing - not often enough to stock up in bulk on inner tubes, but not seldom enough to feel that splashing out on a new tube is trivial (at least in my current financial climate) :pac:

ETA: Plus, there's the environemental guilt

Brian?

nomdeboardie wrote: »

That's the thing - not often enough to stock up in bulk on inner tubes, but not seldom enough to feel that splashing out on a new tube is trivial (at least in my current financial climate) :pac:

ETA: Plus, there's the environemental guilt

Ah fair enough.

I don't have any environmental guilt though, tubes biodegrade quickly enough.