That is allot of wires

quad_red

Hi Folks,

So for the first time in a very (very) long time I started a new PC build yesterday. The components were selected with the assistance of K.O.Kiki and ED E here
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=100718206

And with some messing I've mounted the drives, the motherboard etc. Everything is done now except finishing the wiring.

I've a few questions that I'd love some help with - I know many are probably silly but I'm terrified of damaging the components so I just want to be 100% clear.

ftp://europe.asrock.com/Manual/B150M Pro4.pdf





I've connected the ATX power connector at point 5 in the motherboard. Is this all that needs to be connected or do I need to connect the PSU to the ATX 12V socket at point 1 as well?

I've connected fans at point 9 and 22 but there are five more fan cables from the front of the case. Where do these guys connect to?

I've connected the cable that comes from the USB ports at the front of the case to point 8. But I'm also fitting a multiple card reader in one of the bays and it has 2 USB ports in it that require attaching to something. Or is it a case of just not using them?

Thanks lads. I tell ye - twas a sweaty night last night. Am a bit disappointed with the Nanoxia case. Very solid but it took me a while to realise why I couldn't slide the drives into the 'tool free' bays. The screws used in the cradles of the drives on one side are too long - hence they stop drives sliding in. Obvious in hindsight but when you're peering in trying to figure out why you're being so stupid you can't figure out a 'tool free' installation, it's pretty annoying! :pac:

Cheers,
Quad

TerrorFirmer

You need to connect the 24pin cable and the 4/8pin at point 1 as well. You'll know the requisite cable as the 8-pin is two 4-pins on the same cable, not to be confused with the solid 8pin power cable for graphic cards.

Fans wise, if you only have two fans, then you're grand. The other five connectors you're talking about I'm not sure, maybe for fan controller or similar? But if the case only has two fans and both are connected to the boards 4-pin fan headers, you're fine.

Your card reader would connect to point 17, the USB2 header. Regards the toolless bays I'd say you are doing something wrong there if they won't fit in!

Tool-free means just that - no need for screwdrivers or screws for that matter. Uusually there are plastic retainers that hold the drive in place and it slides in - some will have space for screws to further secure if required but if they're blocking it from sliding it, they're just the wrong screws.

quad_red

TerrorFirmer wrote: »

You need to connect the 24pin cable and the 4/8pin at point 1 as well. You'll know the requisite cable as the 8-pin is two 4-pins on the same cable, not to be confused with the solid 8pin power cable for graphic cards.

Fans wise, if you only have two fans, then you're grand. The other five connectors you're talking about I'm not sure, maybe for fan controller or similar? But if the case only has two fans and both are connected to the boards 4-pin fan headers, you're fine.

Your card reader would connect to point 17, the USB2 header.

Thanks Terror. I'll update later when I'm at it again.

TerrorFirmer wrote: »

Tool-free means just that - no need for screwdrivers or screws for that matter. Uusually there are plastic retainers that hold the drive in place and it slides in - some will have space for screws to further secure if required but if they're blocking it from sliding it, they're just the wrong screws.

That's what paralysed me. I've swapped enough drives in work desktops and even in the servers to know they should just pop in and out. But the only way the drive would slide in was with the retainers on both sides open AND the screws on the right side brackets half screwed out. You could feel that it was a smooth slide in on one side and on the right side all the screw heads were jutting through the metal stopping the drive from sliding in.

Shlippery

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00M49SNVI/?tag=pcp05-21

The 5 cables seem to be from fan controller that is built into the case according to the Amazon page!

So maybe they're adapters to plug your two fans into the controller? Or maybe you can just use some cable ties and keep them hidden away in the case if not needed!

quad_red

Shlippery wrote: »

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00M49SNVI/?tag=pcp05-21

The 5 cables seem to be from fan controller that is built into the case according to the Amazon page!

So maybe they're adapters to plug your two fans into the controller? Or maybe you can just use some cable ties and keep them hidden away in the case if not needed!

They're from the built in fan at the front alright.

I'll post proper pics later - it could have been pure exhaustion was confusing me last night :pac:

Shlippery

quad_red wrote: »

They're from the built in fan at the front alright.

I'll post proper pics later - it could have been pure exhaustion was confusing me last night :pac:

Ha, don't worry about it, as fun and all as building a PC is, just like everything, if you spend too long looking at something it'll just end up frustrating you!

Once you peek back inside the case I'm sure it'll all make sense!

Check the manual that came with the case though, I believe there's a separate controller for the fans.

It says there's 3 fans pre-installed in the case, so they should be connected to the controller, which will let you manually adjust the speeds on the front of the case - so they may not need to be plugged into 9/22, but instead connect directly to the controller which should be somewhere near where a cd drive would normally be located if i'm thinking correctly!

http://nanoxia-world.com/media/pdf/4d/ed/31/DS3_manual_english.pdf

quad_red

Shlippery wrote: »

Ha, don't worry about it, as fun and all as building a PC is, just like everything, if you spend too long looking at something it'll just end up frustrating you!

Once you peek back inside the case I'm sure it'll all make sense!

Check the manual that came with the case though, I believe there's a separate controller for the fans.

It says there's 3 fans pre-installed in the case, so they should be connected to the controller, which will let you manually adjust the speeds on the front of the case - so they may not need to be plugged into 9/22, but instead connect directly to the controller which should be somewhere near where a cd drive would normally be located if i'm thinking correctly!

http://nanoxia-world.com/media/pdf/4d/ed/31/DS3_manual_english.pdf

Ah that's it. All the individual fan cables connect to something else and that connects to the motherboard.

Will check it out later.

Cheers lads.

Jo Satan

All the case fans (not the cpu fan) connect to the controller, the controller connects to the power supply.
The controller has two channels, each channel can control three fans.
Probably best to use one channel to control fans sucking air in like the two front fans and fans mounted on the bottom or side of the case.
Use the other channel for fans blowing air out, the fan at the rear of the case and fans at the top.

Apparently if you have more air coming into the case, by having more/faster fans sucking air in than blowing out of the case you create positive air pressure within the case.
This helps reduce dust entering the case as air is escaping through any vents, mesh etc rather than entering.

It looks like a lot of wires alright but it should give you a tidier build as you will have no case fan wires running across your motherboard.

You probably have three fans at the moment, two at the front and one at the back, so just curl up the remaining fan wires, secure them with a cable tie and hide them away.

Building a pc can be a fiddly, anxious, sweaty ordeal at the start, but that kind of adds to the satisfaction of getting it done and looking good at the end.

Good luck with your build:)

quad_red

I'm still confused

Six small fan cables marked Fan A1, Fan A2, Fan A3, Fan B1, Fan B2, Fan B3 and a larger 4 pin molex connector that i've got connected directly to the PSU.


And two more braided nylon cables which appear to come from the front fans.



I can't see where these go

And the only 'spare' cable is:



Help!

Digital Solitude

Top picture is for connecting fans to, it's probably for the fan controller in your case.

Not sure what the second one is, do they say FDD on then?

Third one is just an adapter you probably don't need if the GPU is already hooked up

Shlippery

Ok, so this is an old video with a guy plugging in stuff to his fan controller - it's an older video but concept is the same, so your two fans at 9 and 22, the 3 pin plugs, would plug into the black heads there in your picture labelled a1, a2, a3 or b1,b2,b3.

https://youtu.be/CK_0Cj_ynGg?t=50

Or,

see this diagram if it makes sense.


I think the spare cable could be if you've a second graphics card maybe but not needed.

quad_red

Thanks lads. The six fan cables (Fan A1, Fan A2, Fan A3, Fan B1, Fan B2, Fan B3) all are connected back to the fan controller built into the front of the case (pictured below).



So I've got the power connected but for these six fan cables there are only two available connections as per below:



There is also an available connection on the motherboard called CHA_FAN2. And I've connected the rear case fan to the motherboard connector marked CHA_FAN1.

TerrorFirmer

Top picture is fan controller, you can optionally plug your fan headers into those, and the molex connector is connected to your power supply. This allows you control the speed of the fans via controlswhich I assume are on the front/top of the case.

The middle picture is fan headers, physically coming from the fans - they need to be plugged into the fan controller optionally, or plugged into the motherboard directly if you want the straight forward route and aren't bothered about controlling the speed of them. If you have more than 2 fans, there probably won't be enough headers on the motherboard itself for this method and you will have to use the controller or else forego a fan.

Last picture is just an extension cable for the 12v 8/4-pin power connector labelled part 1 in your diagram.

quad_red

I'm still confused

These cables


are already connected to the fan controller (ie. they're the other ends of the cables)



So I've connected the fans to overall power. If I do not connect Fan A1 etc. to anything will they remain controlled by the two power levers at the front of the case?

The two cables pictured below are directly coming out of the two big fans at the front of the cable.



I just don't understand the circuit here.

Surely the two fans should be connected to the bloody fan controller and THEN the fan controller be connected to the motherboard?

Currently I have:
A nylon cable coming from the rear case fan connected to CHA_FAN1
Two nylon cables coming from the front case fans as pictured above. There is one spare connector on the motherboard (CHA_FAN2).

Six cables coming from the fan controller (Fan A1 etc.).

A power cable coming from the fan controller which I have connected directly to the PSU.

TerrorFirmer

The fan headers plug into the female connectors coming from the controller - that's what allows the controller to control them!

When using a fan controller, all your case fans are not connected to the motherboard at all, but plugged into those female connectors labelled a1, a2, a3, etc.

The controller will then get all the power it needs from a single 4pin molex connector, which I think you already said you have plugged in.

quad_red

Aha! So in this case I can plug one front fan into the motherboard directly (FAN_CHA2) and the other leftover fan into one of the fan controller cables (FAN A1) and then just bind up the other five cables from the fan controller (fan A2 etc.)

TerrorFirmer

I'd say if you're using the controller you might as well use it for all the case fans. It's handy being able to control fan speed - when plugged directly into the board, depending on the fan, it might be quite loud.

From looking at pictures, there are two sliders at the front of the case, which control the fan speed - one would be for A1,A2,A3, the second would be for B1,B2,B3. So just plug all your fans into the A's and the one slider will control all 3 at once.

quad_red

TerrorFirmer wrote: »

I'd say if you're using the controller you might as well use it for all the case fans. It's handy being able to control fan speed - when plugged directly into the board, depending on the fan, it might be quite loud.

From looking at pictures, there are two sliders at the front of the case, which control the fan speed - one would be for A1,A2,A3, the second would be for B1,B2,B3. So just plug all your fans into the A's and the one slider will control all 3 at once.

So I'm gonna plug the two fan cables into the open A1 and A2 cables coming from the controller?

Then Fan_Cha2 on the motherboard has nothing connected to it and the only motherboard connected fans will be the CPU fan and the rear case fan...

Is that ok then?

Thanks so much Terror Everything's ready to rumble now bar the fans. Who'd have thought the issue I would have would be the friggin fans.

TerrorFirmer

Yup - and the rear case fan should be plugged into the controller as well - what way you can control them all via one slider on the front of the case.

There's no need for any of the fans to actually be connected to the motherboard in this case. The vast majority of cases don't have a fan controller built in like your one does, hence the need for the headers on the motherboard.

quad_red

It powered up!!

Thanks so much to Terror and everyone on here.

Now I just realised that amongst all the components they didn't put in the bloody copy of Windows so I'm stuck. Just sent off an email to Mindfactory and hopefully they'll be decent.

quad_red

So Window's is installed and the basics are done.

Two problems are sound (which I think I know what's wrong) and this card reader thing.

I've read the instructions but I'm not clear on the all the connections. As per the image below - it's got a USB 3 connector, a USB male connection, a molex power connection, a USB 2 connector and a SATA 7 connector.

Off the bat - the motherboard only has one big USB 3 big blue port and that's used for the USB connections at the front of the case. There are no internatal USB male ports so don't know what to do with this. The USB 2 connector is connected to the motherboard as is the power (molux).

But none of the ports on the reader work.

quad_red

Seems like loads of people online have issues with card readers.

The USB 2 ports on reader work (I've the USB 2 connection hooked to the motherboard).

None of the card readers work and there are no status lights.

The reader is connected to the PSU via the 4 pin molex connection to no avail. There is actually a male and female molex connection on the cable coming out of the reader. I've connected the male molex connection to the female molex connection on the PSU cable. Nada.

The case fans are on the molex cable as well and they're drawing power.

Any suggestions? Most of the articles online focus on getting an unrecognised device working via drivers etc. But this isn't showing up in system and the status lights on the reader ain't working indicate that it's not getting power (the USB ports are working but presumably they're drawing power from the motherboard).

TerrorFirmer

The USB 2.0 header should connect to a free USB2 header on your motherboard - not sure how many of those are free on your motherboard, it's possible that the case has USB3/USB2 ports, and actually uses the available headers already. The USB3 male connector means that you can get an adaptor that goes from a back panel single USB3, into the case and connect to the USB male connector from the card reader.

quad_red

Hi Terror + lads,

So kinda gave up on the card reader - allot of people giving out about similar issues online. No matter what I couldn't get the light on the card reader to come on so I'm just going to return it.

I wanted to mess around with it tonight so I went to connect it to the main tv via HDMI. It powered on fine but nothing came up on screen. Not really surprising given I didn't set it up before but no loss.

Anyway, moved it back to the where the monitor is and now... nothing. The desktop won't start full stop. Have checked everything. Tried different plugs and different kettle leads.

Nothing. As dead as a door nail.

Any suggestions here? It was working 15 mins ago. Powered on straight away. I've opened the case and I don't see any lose leads or anything like that.

Shlippery

Sounds stupid, but start from the basic diagnostics, and work along,first thing is the power switch beside the psu, it's probably something REALLY silly.

is that on? I think there's a power button you can press somewhere on the actual motherboard itself, try that and see if anything whirs up.

quad_red

Shlippery wrote: »

Sounds stupid, but start from the basic diagnostics, and work along,first thing is the power switch beside the psu, it's probably something REALLY silly.

is that on? I think there's a power button you can press somewhere on the actual motherboard itself, try that and see if anything whirs up.

Thanks Shlippery.

Have checked that a 100 times. I've changed out leads (and confirmed both leads work on the monitor). I've changed plugs. I just picked it up and plugged it in another room. Using both leads.

Nothing. The PSU is definitely on (but I've been pressing the power button with it on and off anyway).

I really wish the ****ing PSU came with some sort of status light

Shlippery

quad_red wrote: »

Thanks Shlippery.

Have checked that a 100 times. I've changed out leads (and confirmed both leads work on the monitor). I've changed plugs. I just picked it up and plugged it in another room. Using both leads.

Nothing. The PSU is definitely on (but I've been pressing the power button with it on and off anyway).

I really wish the ****ing PSU came with some sort of status light

Hmm, the PSU fans should at least spin up, or make some sort of noise, and then the motherboard should beep if there's something holding it back or gives a small error number on the LED on the board.

It seems odd that there's no sign of life at all, but again, I'm not as experienced as the others here, so will have to wait and see what they think!

Everything should be OK soon

quad_red

Shlippery wrote: »

Hmm, the PSU fans should at least spin up, or make some sort of noise, and then the motherboard should beep if there's something holding it back or gives a small error number on the LED on the board.

It seems odd that there's no sign of life at all, but again, I'm not as experienced as the others here, so will have to wait and see what they think!

Everything should be OK soon

Nothing. Completely dead. Checked both power cables into motherboard are properly seated. Same with ram. Checked that power button wiring is still attached to motherboard.

Most of the stuff I've seen online is talking about that first power up. She'd been powered on a good few times over the last few days. Only two things that changed this evening was connecting to the HDMI port and moving it.

TerrorFirmer

Could be something basic if it's literally 100% dead. Are the 24-pin mainboard cable, and 4/8pin 12v connector fully locked-in? PSU is obviously switched on at the back via the switch?

To rule out the case button itself or wiring, use a screwdriver to start the PC - remove the cases front panel power connector from the board and use the screwdriver to make contact between the pins, that will boot up the PC.

the next option is to take everything out and try and boot it outside the case with the barebones attached - massive pain I know but a necessary evil if no life within the case.

quad_red

So, the regrets continue.

Kids away today so I took everything apart again. I did the steps here.

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems



That's the motherboard with the PSU connected to the two ports and one stick of ram in the second slot.

I tried initially connecting the case's wires for the power button. And just in case it was the button, I then used a screwdriver to connect the two power button pins. Nothing.

Nada.

Dead.

I'm really worried now because I've used my relative's money to build this and I ordered from MindFactory in Germany and I can't even imagine how I'm going to play this when I really don't know what's wrong.

Anyone have any advice here on what I can try?

I don't get the fact that it all booted on for the first few days. Zero issues - installed windows etc. It all changed when I moved it and connected a HDMI cable from the tv. I don't know whether it was the moving (which I did myself and was extremely careful) or the HDMI did it? How could it?

Help!

Digital Solitude

Sounds like a dead PSU or motherboard.

Try resetting the cmos for the craic, it's the flat little battery, just remove it and reinsert it a few seconds after.

If that doesn't work, try the paperclip method to test the psu

quad_red

Digital Solitude wrote: »

Sounds like a dead PSU or motherboard.

Try resetting the cmos for the craic, it's the flat little battery, just remove it and reinsert it a few seconds after.

If that doesn't work, try the paperclip method to test the psu

Have removed and re-seated the CMOS battery.

Just before I do something silly:

I'm connecting the two things in green below, yes? To simulate the power button?

Digital Solitude

I believe so, I can't remember if there's another set of pins for it you'll have to wait for someone else to confirm

Metric Tensor

On my board the GND that's associated with the power button is the one alongside it - not the one below it.

I have no idea if this is the case with yours or not and I don't know if there's the potential to do damage by using the wrong one but worth checking up and testing IF it's safe to do so!!!

quad_red

Sorry, that original image was incorrect. The joys of trying to edit on a phone and then sending it to the desktop to upload it to image upload!

http://s9.postimg.org/85nnqjdnz/Whats_App_Image_2016_09_25_at_14_22_08.jpg

If only the f**king PSU had some sort of status light even

Metric Tensor

Ah yes.

That's how I would expect to see it.

TerrorFirmer

Top two on the right hand side. Use a philips head screwdriver - you can't do any damage no matter what connectors you touch, it's perfectly safe, you bridge the gap between them firmly, no need to be super delicate. It may be either a dead PSU or a dead motherboard, there's a paperclip test you can do to check the PSU on its own is actually functioning.

quad_red

Connecting those two pins with a phillips head screwdriver does nothing.

No beeps, no fans, nothing.

I read on another page (which I've closed but I can't find now) to connect the power leds up to the power pins on the motherboard. If the power button lights up then you know you've got power.

Does that sound stupid or something to try?

quad_red

Incidentally, could I get a loan of a PSU from someone else? In work they are getting rid of some old HP desktops. Would I be able to take a PSU out of one of them to test with?

Or take my PSU and see if it boots a computer in work?

TerrorFirmer

Far easier just to do the paper clip test on the PSU.

With regards PSU's from a work machine, it's 50/50 - a lot of all the major manufacturers flip flop between having standard PSU's and propriatory PSU's which are not compatiable with standard boards.

If they're being thrown out anyway have a quick look, once they have a 24pin and a 4pin, they're grand. The propriatory ones tend to be strange combinations of 6pin, 8pin and 12pin connectors, you'll know instantly if they're suitable.

If the PSU shows signs of life with the pape clip test, you know then it's the board. I never recommend buying full builds from Mindfactory for this reason - returns are a nightmare compared to buying from the likes of Overclockers UK.

quad_red

TerrorFirmer wrote: »

Far easier just to do the paper clip test on the PSU.

I looked that up online but all the examples I've seen show a PSU with coloured cables. The PSU I have the cables are all black.

TerrorFirmer wrote: »

With regards PSU's from a work machine, it's 50/50 - a lot of all the major manufacturers flip flop between having standard PSU's and propriatory PSU's which are not compatiable with standard boards.

If they're being thrown out anyway have a quick look, once they have a 24pin and a 4pin, they're grand. The propriatory ones tend to be strange combinations of 6pin, 8pin and 12pin connectors, you'll know instantly if they're suitable.

Thanks Terror. I'll do that tomorrow.

TerrorFirmer wrote: »

If the PSU shows signs of life with the pape clip test, you know then it's the board. I never recommend buying full builds from Mindfactory for this reason - returns are a nightmare compared to buying from the likes of Overclockers UK.

Holy jesus I wish I'd done more homework on Mindfactory and not just gone with the price comparison. Even if it only is the bloody motherboard - they installed the CPU (I didn't want the hassle or stress of messing with the naked CPU so I paid them 20 quid to install it).

quad_red

Well, it's the worst case scenario.

Got a spare PSU to test and it's the motherboard. My PSU powers another motherboard without an issue.

I don't know what happened. I was so f**King careful. I had an anti static wristband on at all time

Does this happen? Could this be a manufacturer failure?

I've started the process with mindfactory but would appreciate advice here because this option comes up:



What does that mean? The CPU is attached to the motherboard (it was done by mindfactory) so I was gonna send that back as well.

What does the direct option entail? Is it better or worse?

Metric Tensor

I have never dealt with mindfactory but if it was me I'd be taking the processor off and bot sending it back.

It's not particularly difficult but you need somewhere to store it for later. Also the motherboard would have come with a plate to cover and protect the pins when there is no processor in place. Did that come in the box? You should definitely use it if you take the processor off.

quad_red

Metric Tensor wrote: »

I have never dealt with mindfactory but if it was me I'd be taking the processor off and bot sending it back.

It's not particularly difficult but you need somewhere to store it for later. Also the motherboard would have come with a plate to cover and protect the pins when there is no processor in place. Did that come in the box? You should definitely use it if you take the processor off.

Why Metric?

Because you think they'll damage it removing it?

Metric Tensor

I think it might get lost in the process.

You're sending a motherboard back which in turn will probably be sent back to the manufacturer so you are relying on either the person in mindfactory who receives it or the person at the manufacturer who receives it to take your processor out and mind it for a week or two before somehow sending it over to the packaging department to be sent out or fitted to the replacement motherboard that you will be getting.

In my opinion there's just too much chance of it getting lost or forgotten in the process and if so it'll be very difficult for you to track it down or get a replacement.

I wouldn't be worried about having to reinstall it yourself. The modern Intel processors are very easy to fit. What type of cooler is on it?

quad_red

And so I sent the parts backs to Mindfactory and to be fair, they sent back a replacement motherboard. They sent back the originally ram and the original motherboard and heatsink.

Now I'm actually ****ting it but I'm getting ready to put it all back together again. And I just had a thought - do I need thermal compound?

I had Mindfactory install it first time around but now it's up to me. The i5 doesn't come with thermal compound separately. Would the stuff on it first time have worn off?

K.O.Kiki

You need thermal paste to fill in the gap between your CPU & the bottom of the cooler.
Any cheap one will do.
Could even get away with toothpaste while waiting for the post.

quad_red

Thanks KO kiki,

Bought thermal paste in PCworld this morning, applied it, put it all together, silently shat myself and then rejoiced - WE'RE BACK IN BUSINESS!

Oh thanks jesus

Thanks everyone for all their advice here.

I have to say - Mindfactory were decent. Yes, I'm 55 quid down from the cost of returning stuff but they replaced the motherboard without a question.

I had feared much worse. So it was the motherboard which fried. The original ram, cpu, psu etc. are all fine.

Gadgetman496

Wonder what caused the Mobo to fry? All you done was move it from one room to another and connect it to TV, right?

quad_red

Gadgetman496 wrote: »

Wonder what caused the Mobo to fry? All you done was move it from one room to another and connect it to TV, right?

That's it. Worked perfectly until I connected a HDMI cable. Dead as a door nail from then on. Zero issues with new mobo. All other components work perfectly.

Eoinmc97

quad_red wrote: »

That's it. Worked perfectly until I connected a HDMI cable. Dead as a door nail from then on. Zero issues with new mobo. All other components work perfectly.

Technology is a fickle thing I find. There can often be no reasonable or perceivable rreason to us, but then of course everything ends so, it's just a matter of time.