Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

What are you working on currently?

Options
1232426282938

Comments

  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Is that a concrete top or just painted wood?

    Concrete,
    I did a bit of a write up on it here.
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2058101657


  • Registered Users Posts: 964 ✭✭✭Guru Maith Agut


    Concrete,
    I did a bit of a write up on it here.
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2058101657

    Good job!


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Good job!

    Thanks,need to find some suitable wood to do the bottom shelves.


  • Registered Users Posts: 964 ✭✭✭Guru Maith Agut


    Thanks,need to find some suitable wood to do the bottom shelves.

    Do you want it to be a full flat shelf on both sides? As in, would you be okay with small gaps in a shelf? (Depends on what you plan storing on it I suppose..)

    Reason I ask is given it's "rustic" look, it might look kinda cool with rebar running side to side, or back to front as a shelf.
    Drill holes to slot the bars into place and drill halfway through the opposing strut. Maybe set them at 1" apart or whatever makes an even figure across that shelf span.

    Spray paint them black or grey or whatever and bobs your uncle. I intend using some very soon on a coffee table plan.

    Just an idea.. ;)


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    that could be cool alright.
    It has kinda crossed my mind but I was thinking 25mm dowel (that would probably!) break.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 964 ✭✭✭Guru Maith Agut


    that could be cool alright.
    It has kinda crossed my mind but I was thinking 25mm dowel (that would probably!) break.

    Hardwood dowel would be stronger but yes it may break at some stage if it gets abuse. Hence my suggestion for a bit of steel.

    Or you could use some expanded mesh either..


  • Registered Users Posts: 673 ✭✭✭bamayang


    That is absolutely class.
    Another one added to the list :rolleyes:
    What was bill for the timer if you dont mind me asking ?

    I built this BBQ bench after seeing Mossyms one!

    11.jpg

    That concrete top is class!!

    I think roughly
    9x2 = 150
    6x2 = €140
    4x4 = €200
    Steel anchors = €110
    Nuts and bolts €50

    Not cheap when you add it up, but should last a fair while. And sure the fun is in making it, there’d be no enjoyment in getting someone to do it for ya.


  • Registered Users Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    Some really great projects have been posted recently, so I decided to drag down the tone a little bit :D

    Last week I did a quick bodge to mount a cheapo table saw on the side of the bench in one of our farm sheds so that I can do quick and dirty fence work, and breaking up rough sawn timber into workable planks.

    Side note: the table saw is an Einhell tc-ts 2025/1 u - don't buy these or their differently branded equivalents, they're the lowest possible intersection between cost reduction, quality and features, which leads to a (IMO) dangerous tool. I was given this one for free.

    524073.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    Some really great projects have been posted recently, so I decided to drag down the tone a little bit :D

    Last week I did a quick bodge to mount a cheapo table saw on the side of the bench in one of our farm sheds so that I can do quick and dirty fence work, and breaking up rough sawn timber into workable planks.

    Side note: the table saw is an Einhell tc-ts 2025/1 u - don't buy these or their differently branded equivalents, they're the lowest possible intersection between cost reduction, quality and features, which leads to a (IMO) dangerous tool. I was given this one for free.

    524073.jpg
    looks cool ive a similar table which houses my chop saw most of the time, youve given me an idea;)
    Ive the same saw. Got it in argos on a bargain alert. It was only about €80. The fence is terrible and the noise is deafening but it cuts well for me and is a huge step up from not having a table saw. I have another type clamp i lock in place behind that fence to stop it flexing when making cuts.
    Im not defending it or anything ive nothing to compare it to but whats so dangerous about it compared to a different one?
    Also what did you cut those slabs on the left with they look like great future projects!


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    IIRC I read in his blog that he cut the planks by hand:D

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    iamtony wrote: »
    looks cool ive a similar table which houses my chop saw most of the time, youve given me an idea;)
    Ive the same saw. Got it in argos on a bargain alert. It was only about €80. The fence is terrible and the noise is deafening but it cuts well for me and is a huge step up from not having a table saw. I have another type clamp i lock in place behind that fence to stop it flexing when making cuts.
    Im not defending it or anything ive nothing to compare it to but whats so dangerous about it compared to a different one?
    Also what did you cut those slabs on the left with they look like great future projects!

    For me there are a few compounding issues that make it a dangerous saw, and of course this applies to pretty much all saws in this price range, there are so many sacrifices made to make them this cheap, I'm only targeting the Einhell because it's the one I have. Here's the list:
    • Stability - they make these saws so light that anything more than the smallest board passing through it is going to risk the entire saw sliding away from the user, they have little metal hoops on the legs intended to stop it from tipping but a little slide + a little twist caused by even the tiniest difference in grip between one side and the other is going to increase the risk of kickback.
    • Fence - you've called this one out; the fence is awful, any fence movement is a kickback risk.
    • Table - the table is so lightweight that it flexes under load - this is a lift risk; hence another kickback risk.
    • Marketing - think of all the above and then think how these budget saws are marketed; they're sold in supermarkets and targeted at beginners - the very set of people unprepared for dealing with the outcome of the issues above if something goes wrong.

    My intention with bench mounting it is to nip the stability issues in the bud and it has made a massive, massive difference. The fence is next on my hit list for improvement - not sure what I'm going to do there yet.

    I had a look at replacing the table with a melamine surface but when I opened up the saw I found that it's a much bigger task than it looked from the outside so I ran away :D

    The slabs are some very mixed ash by the way - I expect about 50% loss due to rot. It was a dead tree that we had to fell a couple of years back and a guy milled it for me with his mobile mill. I need to check but I think it has just about reached dry enough to mill further for interior acclimatisation, which was a major factor in doing this little project first.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    Yeah actually i have had the table tip back when doing rip cuts. I never installed the stability loops myself. I think i might mount it on the table like you have done to see how it feels but thats for another day i got a cheap router and router table(silverline 2050w) that im sure is going to get dangerous at some point:pac:
    Funny enough i was looking at fence kits on amazon yesterday but they are more expensive than the saw so ill stick with my clamp on fence when needed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    iamtony wrote: »
    Yeah actually i have had the table tip back when doing rip cuts. I never installed the stability loops myself. I think i might mount it on the table like you have done to see how it feels but thats for another day i got a cheap router and router table(silverline 2050w) that im sure is going to get dangerous at some point:pac:
    Funny enough i was looking at fence kits on amazon yesterday but they are more expensive than the saw so ill stick with my clamp on fence when needed.

    A stability bodge that you could do in 5 mins and I think would genuinely help is to put a couple of concrete blocks at the inside of the front legs and simply duct tape them to the legs; it'll be as ugly as sin but should work! :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    A stability bodge that you could do in 5 mins and I think would genuinely help is to put a couple of concrete blocks at the inside of the front legs and simply duct tape them to the legs; it'll be as ugly as sin but should work! :)

    A weightily solution indeed
    I didn't bother with the support frame
    I just bolt to the bench

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    Finished the wrestling ring.
    hFb1FGy
    Ill try the imbed but it never works for me but heres the link also: Wrestling ring build finished https://imgur.com/gallery/hFb1FGy


  • Registered Users Posts: 673 ✭✭✭bamayang


    For me there are a few compounding issues that make it a dangerous saw, and of course this applies to pretty much all saws in this price range, there are so many sacrifices made to make them this cheap, I'm only targeting the Einhell because it's the one I have. Here's the list:
    • Stability - they make these saws so light that anything more than the smallest board passing through it is going to risk the entire saw sliding away from the user, they have little metal hoops on the legs intended to stop it from tipping but a little slide + a little twist caused by even the tiniest difference in grip between one side and the other is going to increase the risk of kickback.
    • Fence - you've called this one out; the fence is awful, any fence movement is a kickback risk.
    • Table - the table is so lightweight that it flexes under load - this is a lift risk; hence another kickback risk.
    • Marketing - think of all the above and then think how these budget saws are marketed; they're sold in supermarkets and targeted at beginners - the very set of people unprepared for dealing with the outcome of the issues above if something goes wrong.

    My intention with bench mounting it is to nip the stability issues in the bud and it has made a massive, massive difference. The fence is next on my hit list for improvement - not sure what I'm going to do there yet.

    I had a look at replacing the table with a melamine surface but when I opened up the saw I found that it's a much bigger task than it looked from the outside so I ran away :D

    The slabs are some very mixed ash by the way - I expect about 50% loss due to rot. It was a dead tree that we had to fell a couple of years back and a guy milled it for me with his mobile mill. I need to check but I think it has just about reached dry enough to mill further for interior acclimatisation, which was a major factor in doing this little project first.



    Agree with all this, with the T shirt to prove it!! Aldi and Lidl saws are grand, and it's great to be able get tools as cheap and as accesible, but they are very limited. And table saws are prob the worst considering the damage they can do if you are unfamiliar with how they work. I put mine into a table and it did improve it a huge amount. Still if i was cutting a lot of material on it, i would be looking at getting something old and solid, cast iron table type.

    Below is the table i built into it. It makes it way more useable and safe.

    YHMGLxh.jpg

    LIPc1lh.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 81 ✭✭brane.nikic87


    In this video you can see how I have built my Lidl/Scheppach table saw and and installed Triton TRA001 router on the side wing.

    https://youtu.be/PErh11uSoE8

    I am based in Limerick so if there are any other woodworkers around here, I would love to meet 🙂


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    brane,
    nice video
    what actually came with the router, I see the bare router listed for c 290 euro, so what did the rest cost: eg the mounting plate, the adjusting rod when mounted etc.
    Have you any video of the making of the rest of the bench?
    Why the white Tee piece on the space underneath with one leg left open??
    Did

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 81 ✭✭brane.nikic87


    brane,
    nice video
    what actually came with the router, I see the bare router listed for c 290 euro, so what did the rest cost: eg the mounting plate, the adjusting rod when mounted etc.
    Have you any video of the making of the rest of the bench?
    Why the white Tee piece on the space underneath with one leg left open??
    Did

    Hi Calahonda52,

    First of all thank you.

    I got this router from Amazon and it was 225GBP (begining of August) and with the router you get a fence, winding handle, wrench and two collets 1/2" and 12mm. I also got 6mm, 1/4" and 8mm collets and they were around 15-20€ each. The mounting plate I made myself on the CNC only because I have a access to one, but you can buy premade insert plates.

    Sorry I don't have a video on making the rest of the bench but I have some drawings so if you are interested PM me and I can show you what I did.
    Why the white Tee piece on the space underneath with one leg left open??

    This is for the dust extraction. So the vacuum hose is split into two. First one is connected underneath the router insert plate to catch all the dust that goes trough insert rings and the bottom one is to suck the dust from the bottom of the enclosure and also to take away some of the heat generated by the router.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Thanks for that.
    I just wondered about the % air flow between the two connections, the elbow, unless you tape up some of it, will take most of the air intake

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 81 ✭✭brane.nikic87


    The whole cabinet is sealed with air seal tape and every connection between hose and plastic connectors.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,379 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    The whole cabinet is sealed with air seal tape
    i started to read this thinking it was about all the covid fuss yesterday.


  • Registered Users Posts: 81 ✭✭brane.nikic87


    i started to read this thinking it was about all the covid fuss yesterday.

    :D:D:D:D:D:D


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,498 ✭✭✭alanhiggyno1


    Anyone built a home bar here. Looking for ideas


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    The whole cabinet is sealed with air seal tape and every connection between hose and plastic connectors.

    Yep, saw that, my question was that at the white tee, the open piece will take a disproportionate amount of the air flow due to the pressure drop in the flexible pipe up to the router from the tee piece.

    As an aside, this is what I have been at recently, not 100% finished but is ready for use

    its 8 by 8 by 8 high at the back to minimise timber waste from 16'

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    Anyone built a home bar here. Looking for ideas
    https://m.facebook.com/eddirect17/

    Besides the build that guy has loads of bar equipment for sale.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,321 ✭✭✭Gloomtastic!


    iamtony wrote: »
    https://m.facebook.com/eddirect17/

    Besides the build that guy has loads of bar equipment for sale.

    Think I've found the perfect chair for my Man Shed. Thanks! :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,498 ✭✭✭alanhiggyno1


    Can someone tell me how u can remove This bolt that is holding 2x4 in place and also what its called. Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,498 ✭✭✭alanhiggyno1


    Can someone tell me how u can remove This bolt that is holding 2x4 in place and also what its called. Thanks


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 21,421 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    That looks like an express nail, not a bolt. Not that easy to remove something fastened to a wall with those things without making a mess.


Advertisement