Ford Puma and rust

boardsuser1

Hal1 wrote: »

Have a look on project puma. It will give you an idea of what needs to be done to make it road worthy again.

Here's a thread with the same issue, corroded all around the suspension mount like on yours: http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?t=24691

Thanks for that, had a look and signed up

My car is child's play compared to some of the stories and photos.

I've seen some pretty bad sheds on the road in the last few days as well, such as a 1996 opel combo with a valid CVRT.

My car is in showroom condition next to it.

Might have to do a refresher course in welding :pac:

I'm a bit 'rusty' after 15 years

Jimmy Garlic

KC161 wrote: »

Might have to do a refresher course in welding :pac:

I'm a bit 'rusty' after 15 years

A mig welder, some flux core, a wire brush, flap wheels and away you go. You won't need a whole lot of practice to get good acceptable results. Get a tin of Por-15, great stuff for keeping rust at bay in exposed areas such as under wheel arches or any of the usual places that some cars tend to rust in.

boardsuser1

Jimmy Garlic wrote: »

A mig welder, some flux core, a wire brush, flap wheels and away you go. You won't need a whole lot of practice to get good acceptable results. Get a tin of Por-15, great stuff for keeping rust at bay in exposed areas such as under wheel arches or any of the usual places that some cars tend to rust in.

A must for the NCT i was told.

boardsuser1

Hal1 wrote: »

Have a look on project puma. It will give you an idea of what needs to be done to make it road worthy again.

Here's a thread with the same issue, corroded all around the suspension mount like on yours: http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?t=24691

Been in touch with these guys and a few others from the Ford Puma owners group.

It's nothing they haven't seen before basically and wouldn't worry them.

Henry Ford III

1.7l is the one to go for.

boardsuser1

Henry Ford III wrote: »

1.7l is the one to go for.

That's the one I have. Can't get a solid one with that engine.

So I'll take my time restoring my one.

That Yamaha engine is something special.

Any recommendations on the cougar Henry?

boardsuser1

2 experienced mechanics today said they didn't know where to start with repairing my Puma. She'll do as a donor I guess.

Grolschevik

Bodywork specialist? I've used a guy for my 17 year old Fiesta recently based in north inner city Dublin. If you're prepared to pay, most things are repairable.

boardsuser1

Grolschevik wrote: »

Bodywork specialist? I've used a guy for my 17 year old Fiesta recently based in north inner city Dublin. If you're prepared to pay, most things are repairable.

I was prepared to fork out €1000 on repairs for the underbody alone. My next door neighbour is a panel beater, he said it's repairable. Now getting low ball offers for scrap. I'd rather keep than sell for €100

JohnBoy26

Grolschevik wrote: »

Bodywork specialist? I've used a guy for my 17 year old Fiesta recently based in north inner city Dublin. If you're prepared to pay, most things are repairable.

A mechanic working on cars day in day out should be able to tell if it's beyond repair. Not only did the op get that opinion off one mechanic but another mechanic too so it's fair to say the car is past it. The pics the op posted pretty much shows it too.

boardsuser1

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

A mechanic working on cars day in day out should be able to tell if it's beyond repair. Not only did the op get that opinion off one mechanic but another mechanic too so it's fair to say the car is past it. The pics the op posted pretty much shows it too.

Same mechanic twice. He agreed to look into it again as he couldn't remember it. He wouldn't have the right welder he said.

JohnBoy26

KC161 wrote: »

I was prepared to fork out €1000 on repairs for the underbody alone. My next door neighbour is a panel beater, he said it's repairable. Now getting low ball offers for scrap. I'd rather keep than sell for €100

That's not really a low ball offer, it's the going rate if it was a scrap place.

boardsuser1

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

That's not really a low ball offer, it's the going rate if it was a scrap place.

It was a panel beater who wanted to buy it. A scrapyard offered €40

Grolschevik

Depends on what's needed, I suppose, but I got quotes of about 300 for welding in steel and respray for a badly corroded rear wheel arch.

Went for the cosmetic only option this year, but will probably spring for as near as possible full repair in due course, as I've had it from new and want to hang on to it, almost on principle.

Message me if you want the number of the place I use. Cosmetic filling and respray cost 100, by the way

boardsuser1

Grolschevik wrote: »

Depends on what's needed, I suppose, but I got quotes of about 300 for welding in steel and respray for a badly corroded rear wheel arch.

Went for the cosmetic only option this year, but will probably spring for as near as possible full repair in due course, as I've had it from new and want to hang on to it, almost on principle.

Message me if you want the number of the place I use. Cosmetic filling and respray cost 100, by the way

The car is in Cork. I was down for a few days. Locked in a shed now where it has lived during most of my ownership.

JohnBoy26

KC161 wrote: »

Same mechanic twice. He agreed to look into it again as he couldn't remember it. He wouldn't have the right welder he said.

That is a bit different to what you said above. I still think that car is past it but the fact that he mentioned the welder would make me think that you might be able to get it welded to pass a test and maybe knock another year out of it.

I wouldn't spend too much on it though because I think the end isn't far away for that car, if it hasn't reached it already.

boardsuser1

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

That is a bit different to what you said above. I still think that car is past it but the fact that he mentioned the welder would make me think that you might be able to get it welded to pass a test and maybe knock another year out of it.

I wouldn't spend too much on it though because I think the end isn't far away for that car, if it hasn't reached it already.

The panel beater who is my next door neighbour bit?

He said the corrosion has gotten worse since he last seen it. For a car that has only done 30 miles since I started the thread and has been dry stored I didn't think it would spread. I'm learning as I go if that's the case.

JohnBoy26

Grolschevik wrote: »

Depends on what's needed, I suppose, but I got quotes of about 300 for welding in steel and respray for a badly corroded rear wheel arch.

Went for the cosmetic only option this year, but will probably spring for as near as possible full repair in due course, as I've had it from new and want to hang on to it, almost on principle.

Message me if you want the number of the place I use. Cosmetic filling and respray cost 100, by the way

€300 could turn into a much bigger bill by the time all the rust is cut out. A Cosmetic repair is a waist of time because the rust will be back through the fillers in a couple of months.

JohnBoy26

KC161 wrote: »

The panel beater who is my next door neighbour bit?

No the 2 mechanics bit.

boardsuser1

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

No the 2 mechanics bit.

They work in the same garage.

JohnBoy26

KC161 wrote: »

2 experienced mechanics today said they didn't know where to start with repairing my Puma. She'll do as a donor I guess.

KC161 wrote: »

Same mechanic twice. He agreed to look into it again as he couldn't remember it. He wouldn't have the right welder he said.

KC161 wrote: »

They work in the same garage.

?

boardsuser1

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

?

Joint owners

JohnBoy26

KC161 wrote: »

Joint owners

So too mechanics condemned it?

Jack the Stripper

You're emotionally attached to the car, they are only machines. A machine can't doesn't have a sex.

boardsuser1

Jack the Stripper wrote: »

You're emotionally attached to the car, they are only machines. A machine can't doesn't have a sex.

I have an oul doll for that last bit.

Might just buy a solid 1.4 and drop the 1.7 engine into it.

boardsuser1

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

So too mechanics condemned it?

I've a feeling they just didn't want to do it. Had this problem once before with a Fiat Punto, car flew the NCT after another garage repaired it, I'll give up and use it as spares for another Puma I'm looking at, a solid Puma.

boardsuser1

Interesting fact I have just discovered, someone I know living locally to the garage I used couldn't get them to change out an engine. They were told the "job is too big" on a Kia picanto.

Welding and changing engines is real work as opposed to changing oil and maybe filter (if it's not too difficult for them to get to). Got the same response once from a mechanic when I wanted to adjust the tappets on a Peugeot 405. He was not interested as that particular engine used shims.

Edit: Maybe they know somebody who wanted a 1.7 engine for a project. Alternatively they just wanted the car, full stop, and repair it themselves.

boardsuser1

samih wrote: »

Welding and changing engines is real work as opposed to changing oil and maybe filter (if it's not too difficult for them to get to). Got the same response once from a mechanic when I wanted to adjust the tappets on a Peugeot 405. He was not interested as that particular engine used shims.

Edit: Maybe they know somebody who wanted a 1.7 engine for a project. Alternatively they just wanted the car, full stop, and repair it themselves.

They offered to buy it for scrap.

Those engines are in demand for Fiesta's of that time.

I declined the offer.

They have turned down all sorts of work previously I've found out.

I only used them the odd time.

Another job they turned down was doing rear axle bushes on a Peugeot 206.

JohnBoy26

KC161 wrote: »

They offered to buy it for scrap.

Those engines are in demand for Fiesta's of that time.

I declined the offer.

They have turned down all sorts of work previously I've found out.

I only used them the odd time.

Another job they turned down was doing rear axle bushes on a Peugeot 206.

More likely axle bearings. I would understand their point of view in this instance as replacing bearings on these is usually not successful due to axle wear. A reconditioned axle is the way to go here.