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Parker Hale Mod - Assembly and disassembly.

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  • 23-02-2016 9:24pm
    #1
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,543 Mod ✭✭✭✭


    Can someone with one of these please run me through the process.

    The Father has one on his .22 and when he took it apart to clean he reassembled it, but found the accuracy was gone. To the extent that at 50 yards it was barely hitting an 18" x 24" target. Without the mod the rifle was fine and when i used my parker hale mod it was also fine so i know its not the rifle.

    I tried many variations of reassembly and some were better than others but none gave the same performance as my mod on his rifle. After trying for a while i put the mod back to the way i found it, and just for pot luck tried it once more. The rifle is now almost spot on with the mod on of off.

    I don't like the idea that something may have been wrong and i "fixed" it without knowing what exactly was wrong and what was done to remedy it.

    I have the tool for the mod (the bar) and i've checked most on line videos on them. Just looking for someone with actually experience and if possible pictures.

    Thanks.
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    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

    Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo



Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 112 ✭✭g00167015


    Open end forwards, should be 15 baffles plus washer plus spring if my memory is right.

    Stack them all together on a rod or screwdriver shaft first and lower the outer tube over them, helps ensure one of the little buggers isn't cocked at an angle inside the tube.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,543 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Thanks for that.

    It has 14 baffles, the two washers and spring washer. I did notice some of the baffles were "collapsing" inside the mod so the last thing i done was put a dent into the second washer then checked each baffle for alignment. I noticed a tiny brush mark on the inside of the mouth of the muzzle piece and could not tell if it was a clip mark from bullets or just normal wear and tear mark. So i drilled the muzzle out from 8.08 mm to 9.06 mm just to be sure. I then reassembled it and while the issue was better it was still hitting 8 inches low (at 25 yards) and right.

    I stripped it, cleaned it and tried numerous variations. Some ways worked better, others worse. In the end i done it exactly as you said above (which was the way it was at the start when i was getting the bad groups/no groups) and it worked fine. Hence this thread.

    I had this with a scope once. Could not get zero and after spending over an hour trouble shooting i just reset it to the "zero" i thought i had, fired one more shot and it was bang on. I just hate no knowing what was causing the problem.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

    Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo



  • Registered Users Posts: 112 ✭✭g00167015


    The shoulder at the base of the muzzle thread on your rifle may have had some dirt or corrosion stuck on it. It would not need much to throw the moderator sufficiently out of whack at the front end to cause bother. The shoulder is the most important bit as regards alignment and concentricity, the threads themselves are only really to stop your mod from going with the wind :-)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,759 ✭✭✭cookimonster


    There was a similar problem with a Brno my father had, and it turned out to be the shroud on the frount sight was very slightly proud of the threads (after market threading) putting the alignment out.
    A different mod with wider baffling and muzzle worked ok, but the permanent solution was the removal of the redundant shroud.


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