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Massey Ferguson 35X restoration

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13

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  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭greendragon3


    Suckler wrote: »
    Fantastic job, tidy workmanship.

    cheers lad . ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 85 ✭✭gholian


    Really excellent job, hope my 135 comes out as good. The biggest issue with any restoration is cost. Do you mind me asking approximately what the restoration cost minus labour. I see restored 35's on donedeal asking €3,500. Haven't seen them only the pictures. I have new cab for my 135 and hoping with the restoration will get it done under €4k.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,507 ✭✭✭Buona Fortuna


    gholian wrote: »
    Really excellent job, hope my 135 comes out as good. The biggest issue with any restoration is cost. Do you mind me asking approximately what the restoration cost minus labour. I see restored 35's on donedeal asking €3,500. Haven't seen them only the pictures. I have new cab for my 135 and hoping with the restoration will get it done under €4k.

    One the neighbours used to restore 20s. He had three, all TVO. Absolutely pristine. I've a 20 as well and used to chat to him now and again. Asked him if he ever sold them. He said waste of time. You'd get €3.5/4 K but would cost about €10k. It was a hobby only for him.

    Great thread btw Dragon ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 85 ✭✭gholian


    Christ not €10K! I have €1680 spend on cab and €750 on parts, the big things being Clutch kit, Radiator, water pump, front wheel etc. Really want it to come in under €4K.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,507 ✭✭✭Buona Fortuna


    gholian wrote: »
    Christ not €10K! I have €1680 spend on cab and €750 on parts, the big things being Clutch kit, Radiator, water pump, front wheel etc. Really want it to come in under €4K.

    He's probably including labour :). He's not the sort of lad you'd get into too much of a discussion about though - if you get my drift.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭greendragon3


    gholian wrote: »
    Really excellent job, hope my 135 comes out as good. The biggest issue with any restoration is cost. Do you mind me asking approximately what the restoration cost minus labour. I see restored 35's on donedeal asking €3,500. Haven't seen them only the pictures. I have new cab for my 135 and hoping with the restoration will get it done under €4k.

    cheers lad , haven't a final break down on the total cost yet but i do know the parts bill is coming in at €2300 ex vat , that includes new steering , clutch kit , rope seal , brakes , lift assembly , hitch , mudguards , paint , lights , gauges , seat cushions , spool valve and a full service kit , there are other bits and pieces but i just cant think of them off hand .

    i know from restoring the ould zetors it is very hard to justify what you spend on a tractor and there is no way you would ever re-coup the costs if you were to sell on the tractor . of course there is always the cheaper option , repair nothing , butter everything up and paint over mud and dirt and rust !!!!! that wont be happening in our workshop .:mad:


  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭Man of Aran


    Superb job GreenDragon, up to your usual high standard.
    Just a quick query for you or any of the MF fans here - is there any quick way to tell at a glance the difference between a std MF 35 3 cylinder and a 35x. What are the visual clues?
    Did the std 35 have a diff lock for example? Often wondered about this.


  • Registered Users Posts: 85 ✭✭gholian


    cheers lad , haven't a final break down on the total cost yet but i do know the parts bill is coming in at €2300 ex vat , that includes new steering , clutch kit , rope seal , brakes , lift assembly , hitch , mudguards , paint , lights , gauges , seat cushions , spool valve and a full service kit , there are other bits and pieces but i just cant think of them off hand .

    i know from restoring the ould zetors it is very hard to justify what you spend on a tractor and there is no way you would ever re-coup the costs if you were to sell on the tractor . of course there is always the cheaper option , repair nothing , butter everything up and paint over mud and dirt and rust !!!!! that wont be happening in our workshop .:mad:

    Our tractor has been in the family 39 years so it is being restored for sentimental value. I don't know what my father intends to do with it afterwards but would like to think if he did sell it he would get his money back, labour is free by me.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,937 ✭✭✭SmartinMartin


    Superb job GreenDragon, up to your usual high standard.
    Just a quick query for you or any of the MF fans here - is there any quick way to tell at a glance the difference between a std MF 35 3 cylinder and a 35x. What are the visual clues?
    Did the std 35 have a diff lock for example? Often wondered about this.

    xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx


  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭greendragon3


    Superb job GreenDragon, up to your usual high standard.
    Just a quick query for you or any of the MF fans here - is there any quick way to tell at a glance the difference between a std MF 35 3 cylinder and a 35x. What are the visual clues?
    Did the std 35 have a diff lock for example? Often wondered about this.

    well im no expert on masseys but i think the difference is the spacer plate between the bell housing and the engine to accommodate the larger " dual clutch " also there is a diff lock on the X , and where the dynamo mounts to the side/front of the engine is different , apart from that im not sure what the difference is ??? they may all be wrong and im sure someone will be along to put me right soon . :o:confused::confused::confused::confused:


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  • Registered Users Posts: 206 ✭✭ford 5600


    well im no expert on masseys but i think the difference is the spacer plate between the bell housing and the engine to accommodate the larger " dual clutch " also there is a diff lock on the X , and where the dynamo mounts to the side/front of the engine is different , apart from that im not sure what the difference is ??? they may all be wrong and im sure someone will be along to put me right soon . :o:confused::confused::confused::confused:

    The main clue I have always heard to know a 35x is what Greendragon has mentioned. The Dynamo bracket on a 35x is a machined flat across the face of the timing cover. On a 3 cyl 35 , it is 2 brackets really, one part at the front of the timing cover and the other at the back of it. Both do the same job.

    I wouldn't reckon to be an expert on them either, but I'm knocking around since their last year of production ! I knew of a 35x , that had just a single clutch. I don't think all 35xs had a diff lock ? The basic model of anything , back then , could be very basic.


  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭greendragon3


    completed the tractor today bar a quick test drive , fitted the new diesel pipe bled her and she fired right up , purring like a kitten now , wheels back on , wiring completed and a good deep coat of wax applied , the weather is atrocious here t the minute and the client is collecting the tractor on saturday so i will hopefully have a few outside shots for ye all then .

    shane%20egans%2035x%20restoration%20150_zpsk7czgqgs.jpg
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  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭Man of Aran


    Great work GD. I can see that 1-piece dynamo mounting bracket that 'Ford5600' mentioned in his reply on unique features that help ID a 35X over a 35.
    Thx lads for the useful replies.


  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭greendragon3


    well everyone she is finally finished , the owner collected her this evening and he is delighted with her , i think she came out very well but i am biased !
    few pics .

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  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭greendragon3


    shane%20egans%2035x%20restoration%20160_zpseqah8ghx.jpg
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  • Registered Users Posts: 17,895 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    Mad quality work, looks nothing like the heap in the first post...


  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭greendragon3


    just to save ye having to skip back to the start of the thread here is how it arrived to us !!

    shane%20egans%2035x%20restoration%20008_zpsixfnegdc.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,293 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Looks brilliant and not a cover up job like alot of restos.
    Something I had not noticed before probably because I've seldom sat on a 35 but the dash is a beautiful piece of design. Simple, clean and timeless shape.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,503 ✭✭✭TrailerBob


    mickdw wrote: »
    Looks brilliant and not a cover up job like alot of restos.
    .

    Not a word of a lie, I saw a 135 at a show last year that the guy had brush painted, and literally painted over bits of straw on the back axle. Comical stuff.

    Lovely work green dragon, it's great to see that there are others that put similar effort into a restoration. A lot of hackers around, or lads that pay a pro to do the work and pass it off as their own


  • Registered Users Posts: 422 ✭✭marlyman


    Great work green dragon. Where did you get all the new parts?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭greendragon3


    marlyman wrote: »
    Great work green dragon. Where did you get all the new parts?

    thanks lad , all parts came from mackey plant and agri Belleek , sound man to deal with and no bother getting anything at all .


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,078 ✭✭✭salonfire


    Why does the oil pressure gauge on these always seem to read High?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,935 ✭✭✭randy hickey


    Only seeing this thread now - absolutely top class work by you and your crew greendragon - yet again!

    Looking forward to your next restoration thread, and may there be many more!


    Happy Christmas to you and yours.


  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭greendragon3


    Only seeing this thread now - absolutely top class work by you and your crew greendragon - yet again!

    Looking forward to your next restoration thread, and may there be many more!


    Happy Christmas to you and yours.


    thanks a million lad , means a lot , many happy returns to you and yours ,

    p.s. stay tuned our next project is just around the corner lol .;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭greendragon3


    hello all , we are back after the Christmas break with a new project , Ive started a new thread here for anyone that is interested , thanks terry .

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=98291988#post98291988


  • Registered Users Posts: 85 ✭✭gholian


    Wonder could I ask a question. I am at the hydraulics at the moment. To remove the Draft Control. If that large round threaded nut piece that you are heating and chiselling is removed can that whole section be withdrawn. Is there anything else holding it.

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭greendragon3


    gholian wrote: »
    Wonder could I ask a question. I am at the hydraulics at the moment. To remove the Draft Control. If that large round threaded nut piece that you are heating and chiselling is removed can that whole section be withdrawn. Is there anything else holding it.

    Thanks.

    there is a tiny alan key head grub screw in the side of the draft control housing that you have to remove first , its normally filled with years of dirt so hard to spot , once you get that out you can try removing the large threaded nut as seen in the pictures , it comes out as all one unit , i replaced the whole lot as made sense but you may be able to service and tighten it up in some way , hope this helps lad , pm me if you have any more queries .


  • Registered Users Posts: 85 ✭✭gholian


    Thanks for that, will start chiselling tomorrow. One more thing the two bushes on each side of the Clevis, they called top link bushes and are splined on the inside. Are these to be hammered out from the inside somehow.

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 85 ✭✭gholian


    Thanks for that, will start chiselling tomorrow. One more thing the two bushes on each side of the Clevis, they called top link bushes and are splined on the inside. Are these to be hammered out from the inside somehow.

    Thanks.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 895 ✭✭✭greendragon3


    gholian wrote: »
    Thanks for that, will start chiselling tomorrow. One more thing the two bushes on each side of the Clevis, they called top link bushes and are splined on the inside. Are these to be hammered out from the inside somehow.

    Thanks.

    from memory they were that loose they just fell out , if you are getting new ones them you can tap the old ones out without fear of damaging them .


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