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Retro Brite - Restoration Logs

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  • 14-10-2015 5:11pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭


    Ok, I originally pitched this as a group build idea...but looking at it in more detail, it's really too cheap to do to be any use amongst a group. I've decided to try my hand at this & need some bits & pieces to do it correctly.

    First up, a UV light box:

    For obvious reasons, the sunlight here in Ireland is as far from dependable as you can get. We get patchy, low intensity sunlight for most of the year (if we're lucky!). Combined with sketchy results like swirling, I've decided to go the light box route. Basically the idea is to build a small box, in which there will be a lid/door to block out all light. Inside the box there will be a UV light source, so any plastic that gets placed inside will be exposed to consistent & balanced UV light, giving much better results by all accounts. The inside of the box will be lined with reflective foil (tin foil), to keep the light inside as broad & spread out as possible. Here's what I've done so far:

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Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    I've also picked these up:

    T5 8W fluorescent light fittings x2
    UVA 8W G5 bulbs x2

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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Still to get:

    A roll of cling film to wrap any plastic going into the UV box. This prevents the retrobrite drying out, which creates bleaching/stains on the plastic.

    Retrobrite itself, by all accounts this stuff is retrobrite in a bottle, and is available easily enough:

    318%2BiXieELL._SX300_.jpg

    Once obtained, I'll fit the fixtures to the lid of the box & begin the trials!


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,014 ✭✭✭✭Corholio


    Looks good! I'd experiment using a ziplock bag as well as the clingfilm. Its actually a little tough to keep air out of little pockets in the clingfilm and can dry out small bits faster than others. I've had good and less than good results with clingfilm.

    Keep us updated though!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Corholio wrote: »
    Looks good! I'd experiment using a ziplock bag as well as the clingfilm. Its actually a little tough to keep air out of little pockets in the clingfilm and can dry out small bits faster than others. I've had good and less than good results with clingfilm.

    Keep us updated though!

    Cheers for that, have you tried it with zip-lock bags & found it to be better in that regard?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,851 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    They sell that Oxy stuff you need to help make the real stuff in the Euro shops by the way.
    Might be helpful to add it to this mixture maybe?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Steve X2 wrote: »
    They sell that Oxy stuff you need to help make the real stuff in the Euro shops by the way.
    Might be helpful to add it to this mixture maybe?

    Yep was thinking the same myself, though given the stuff from the bottle is already thickened, I'm not sure how adding Oxy would affect it (or the ratio I should add it in etc).


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,014 ✭✭✭✭Corholio


    Myrddin wrote: »
    Cheers for that, have you tried it with zip-lock bags & found it to be better in that regard?

    I've only used it once in the zip lock bag and it turned out decent enough. It also resolves the problem of the clingfilm sticking to the surface which can create slight overlapping of the plastic which can keep out the rays and create little lines.

    As for the Oxy, the stuff in the bottle is pretty much the real stuff anyway so I don't think you'd need the Oxy either. The Oxy was usually just a sort of first step or just added to the ingredients to boost it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,718 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Is it necessary to seal in the 'stuff' at all when using a light box ? The heat generated should be low and the exposure time should be much shorter ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Is it necessary to seal in the 'stuff' at all when using a light box ? The heat generated should be low and the exposure time should be much shorter ?

    From what I've read, it's still kinda necessary (see post #10 & 18 here), depending on the bulb type used. Do the above bulbs I got give off much heat normally?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,851 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Myrddin wrote: »
    Yep was thinking the same myself, though given the stuff from the bottle is already thickened, I'm not sure how adding Oxy would affect it (or the ratio I should add it in etc).

    Oxy is not to thicken it, that's what the Xantar gum does. The Oxy is added just before you apply the Retr0brite as an activator for the peroxide mix. Without the activator it won't work very well at all.

    A lot of people skip the Oxy and wonder why the results are not great. It's the TAED (Tetraacetylethylenediamine) in the Oxy that works as a catalyst so you need to make sure that's what's in the Oxy you buy.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,718 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Myrddin wrote: »
    From what I've read, it's still kinda necessary (see post #10 & 18 here), depending on the bulb type used. Do the above bulbs I got give off much heat normally?

    Not sure really, you're the one that'll be doing all the experiments for us and reporting back the best method :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    Steve X2 wrote: »
    (Tetraacetylethylenediamine)

    Easy for you to say.

    Best of luck with this, pass the tinfoil box around when you are done.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Steve X2 wrote: »
    Oxy is not to thicken it, that's what the Xantar gum does. The Oxy is added just before you apply the Retr0brite as an activator for the peroxide mix. Without the activator it won't work very well at all.

    A lot of people skip the Oxy and wonder why the results are not great. It's the TAED (Tetraacetylethylenediamine) in the Oxy that works as a catalyst so you need to make sure that's what's in the Oxy you buy.

    Interesting, though my point was I'm not sure if adding Oxy will make the already thickened 'stuff' even thicker, to the point where it just turns into useless gloop. If adding Oxy, should I be adding a small amout of a diluting agent to keep the 'stuff' at the right consistency?
    Not sure really, you're the one that'll be doing all the experiments for us and reporting back the best method :D

    A DIY UV Light Box you say?

    juokingos-nuotraukos-109_1.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,851 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Myrddin wrote: »
    Interesting, though my point was I'm not sure if adding Oxy will make the already thickened 'stuff' even thicker, to the point where it just turns into useless gloop. If adding Oxy, should I be adding a small amout of a diluting agent to keep the 'stuff' at the right consistency?


    Ah ok, yes you dissolve the Oxy in warm water and add it to the mix just before you apply. So you could get the consistency about the same as your other mix.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,014 ✭✭✭✭Corholio


    Steve X2 wrote: »
    Oxy is not to thicken it, that's what the Xantar gum does. The Oxy is added just before you apply the Retr0brite as an activator for the peroxide mix. Without the activator it won't work very well at all.

    A lot of people skip the Oxy and wonder why the results are not great. It's the TAED (Tetraacetylethylenediamine) in the Oxy that works as a catalyst so you need to make sure that's what's in the Oxy you buy.

    The effect of Oxy seems to be very hit and miss on oxidised plastic though. For other cleaning projects on non-plastic it seems to have a better effect than it does on plastic, like for example on fabrics on which Oxy was specifically used for. I don't think it's really a case of without it, it won't work very well. In my experiences it's never been a must have thing, but always worth trying with it anyway of course. Apparently the formula with Oxy works well with old Apple products but not so much with plastic in the SNES, and I can testify that using it with I didn't notice any difference than using without.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,851 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Corholio wrote: »
    The effect of Oxy seems to be very hit and miss on oxidised plastic though. For other cleaning projects on non-plastic it seems to have a better effect than it does on plastic, like for example on fabrics on which Oxy was specifically used for. I don't think it's really a case of without it, it won't work very well. In my experiences it's never been a must have thing, but always worth trying with it anyway of course. Apparently the formula with Oxy works well with old Apple products but not so much with plastic in the SNES, and I can testify that using it with I didn't notice any difference than using without.

    Retr0brite has many recipes for different ABS mixes as you can see online. I've used Retr0brite mainly on older apple stuff as well as Amiga/Commodore systems and without the Oxy it was only ok. But with the added Oxy at the right time it does make a big difference. It's the TAED that does the work here, so the Oxy has to have that and not all do.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Build update:

    Light fixtures fixed to the lid of the box

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    Test using standard bulbs

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    Test using UV bulbs

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    My god...it's full of stars

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    Things to do:

    Obtain zip lock bags (hopefully on Monday)
    Obtain that Bblonde stuff (hopefully Saturday)

    I should be all set to try this all out then over the following week or so.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,014 ✭✭✭✭Corholio


    When you take the top off the box after doing it it's gonna be like this........:pac:



    Looks good though!


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    So those UV bulbs make your clothes glow ?
    I need to get some for the arcade.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    The 'stuff' has been procured. These are only small bottles, & I'm not sure how much is needed so I got three for now. Only thing left is some zip-lock bags, & I should have those tomorrow.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 14,014 ✭✭✭✭Corholio


    You shouldn't need too much I would say, the cream handily spreads around quite good when you do it with your fingers (in gloves of course)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Just about to test this all out on a Super Famicom. Will take pics & post later on...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,214 ✭✭✭STG.Otaku


    Corholio wrote: »
    the cream handily spreads around quite good when you do it with your fingers (in gloves of course)

    tumblr_lu0b6tfVBW1qlvie8o1_500.gif


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    3 hours in, can't say I notice any real difference :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,718 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Myrddin wrote: »
    3 hours in, can't say I notice any real difference :(

    Something wrong there, I've used that same bottle of stuff on an old Amiga power supply and there was a noticeable difference after 30 mins of sunlight.

    Are they the right type of UV bulbs ? Think it needs UVB to work and not UVA.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Are they the right type of UV bulbs ? Think it needs UVB to work and not UVA.

    They're UVA from what I can see :( I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere about UVB, is that definitely the case?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,718 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Myrddin wrote: »
    They're UVA from what I can see :( I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere about UVB, is that definitely the case?

    Seems to be mixed reports on people have success with both UVA & UVB on Amibay retrobrite thread, thought I did read somewhere previously about UVB being better.
    I guess let them cook away for another bit ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    I guess let them cook away for another bit ?

    Aye, I'll leave them be for the time being. Had a quick look there for an Exo Terra Repti UVB bulb in Ireland, €43 for a screw in bulb?? Ffs :(


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Build Log 1: Super Famicom (colour fixed in another post

    I'm quite disappointed the result isn't better than it is, & the final pics are made to look better than it does in reality given the artificial light I took them under. I reckon the UVA bulbs I'm using just simply aren't that well suited to the process. They've made some difference, a small difference...but given the use of a light box & for several hours, I think the results should be a lot better than this. I'll get different bulbs in there maybe in a week or two to finish the job.

    Only the top half was done, I didn't touch the bottom half except for cleaning it.

    Before cleaning

    fswvb.jpg

    2hnb7zd.jpg

    9k32o1.jpg

    34tbgw0.jpg

    6p966p.jpg

    The 'stuff applied

    deb53d.jpg

    qyflgn.jpg

    Results

    2ihpg6h.jpg

    15wh1r7.jpg

    291mb6f.jpg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 14,014 ✭✭✭✭Corholio


    It looks decent enough though, can definitely see a change. The strange thing I found sometimes doing it (with me it was sunlight, but may still apply) is that I got quite different results day to day. Sometimes the 2nd day would be much better than the first etc, other times some tints of yellow was still there even after the 4th day. What I would say is on the 2nd day try rubbing the cream in more, apparently the plastic absorbing it better can improve results.


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