Temperature Control Issues & Tips Thread

Didihno

Hi all,
I think we should have a sticky thread just for temp control, since its its own thing with its own set of issues?

Mods can sticky this or simply start a new thread, or not, whatever suits!

Didihno

OK, so I have a big problem with the eVic VT and nickel coil builds I have tried so far (on build no. 3).
Its just not satisfying in any consistant way.

I am using the VT, set at anything between 30-60w, and temps between 380-500.
Steamcrave Aromamizer RDA.
Nickel wire, 30gauge (.25mm).

I have tried plain nickel micro coils, plain nickel spaced coils, twisted spaced coils and the coils have been coming out at around .14 to .20.
Organic cotton wick, fairly loose so as to be able to pull through without destroying the nickel coils.

My current build is twisted nickel, 8 wraps spaced and is reading .20 on the VT.
I have it set currently to 40w, and 500'F (though I'm fiddling these settings all the time trying to get it right).
Its firing and I'm getting one nice hit, or two, then nothing, then a hit, then nothing.
Its so infuriatingly inconsistant though.

Can anyone with any experience, especially with the VT, give me any pointers or help? Also, it hardly ever offers 'new coil/old coil' even when I unscrew the atty and it reads a different res when screwed back on?

11214

I unlock the resistance before I unscrew the atty.
Remove the atty.
Then press fire for five seconds with no atty then pop on the new atty.
That sequence always works for me.

youdipstick

The Aromamizer has an adjustable 510 pin,is it screwed in tight-ish,I have only used subtanks & ego one mega's on my VT's,so I can't really say what is causing this,does the subtanks work ok with a nickel build on the RBA base,they should cos mine do,just sounds like the Aromamizer has a fault working with the VT,the Aromamizer might work with other mods,they can be funny at times.

Didihno

youdipstick wrote: »

The Aromamizer has an adjustable 510 pin,is it screwed in tight-ish

Yeah I saw the 510 pin was flush with the threaded part, which gave me a jump, I mean, imagine screwing that onto a hybrid, or direct battery connection type mod?
Clouds, only of the mushroom variety.

Didihno

11214 wrote: »

I unlock the resistance before I unscrew the atty.
Remove the atty.
Then press fire for five seconds with no atty then pop on the new atty.
That sequence always works for me.

Actually that worked a treat thanks!

JH_raheny

I only started using the evic40 a bit the other day with a subtank and find it a bit hit and miss as well, maybe it's just me who needs practice but even when it is at it's best I find the Subox RBA better using subtanks with exact same juice the RBA wins no contest so far

jonski

Good Thread , given that I received my eVic Mini TC this morning

mrplop

jonski wrote: »

Good Thread , given that I received my eVic Mini TC this morning

It's my favourite mod, you'll love it.
I got the version with the mega tank, didn't rate the tank until I started using rebuilt CLR heads - now it's actually quite a rocking little device, especially with Nickel builds.

Didihno

JH_raheny wrote: »

I only started using the evic40 a bit the other day with a subtank and find it a bit hit and miss as well, maybe it's just me who needs practice but even when it is at it's best I find the Subox RBA better using subtanks with exact same juice the RBA wins no contest so far

eVic 40?

JH_raheny

Didihno wrote: »

eVic 40?

iStick40 that should of course have been

youdipstick

JH_raheny wrote: »

iStick40 that should of course have been

What happens when you say hit or miss for the istick 40.

JH_raheny

youdipstick wrote: »

What happens when you say hit or miss for the istick 40.

sometimes I get great vape from it and then other times TC just constantly kicks in after 2 seconds, tried different temp but it is probably just me who havenøt learned to use it properly yet

mrplop

JH_raheny wrote: »

sometimes I get great vape from it and then other times TC just constantly kicks in after 2 seconds, tried different temp but it is probably just me who havenøt learned to use it properly yet

Sounds like it's not wicking properly - what device are you using on your TC40?

EDIT.

You're using a subtank mini - what head OC or RBA? If it's the RBA is it the newer version with the holes?

JH_raheny

using it with premade coil either TI200 or NI200 whichever it was recommended for TC 0.15 ohm

youdipstick

Are you locking in the resistance.

mrplop

JH_raheny wrote: »

using it with premade coil either TI200 or NI200 whichever it was recommended for TC 0.15 ohm

Those coils have a difficult job keeping up with the juice that's needed, they're infamous for the resistance jumping around too.

Get some Ni200 or Titanium wire and build your own, TC is much more stable in the RBA than it is on the pre-mades.

JH_raheny

mrplop wrote: »

Those coils have a difficult job keeping up with the juice that's needed, they're infamous for the resistance jumping around too.

Get some Ni200 or Titanium wire and build your own, TC is much more stable in the RBA than it is on the pre-mades.

Cheers man, I'll get some NICE wire, just got a few coils to try, seems like money wasted

jonski

mrplop wrote: »

It's my favourite mod, you'll love it.
I got the version with the mega tank, didn't rate the tank until I started using rebuilt CLR heads - now it's actually quite a rocking little device, especially with Nickel builds.

Any Irish vendors stocking that CLR head as the mega tank did come with the kit .

mrplop

jonski wrote: »

Any Irish vendors stocking that CLR head as the mega tank did come with the kit .

Efag.ie has them - get the .5 kanthal and use it before you rebuild with nickel - I was impressed by it's performance.

jonski

mrplop wrote: »

Efag.ie has them - get the .5 kanthal and use it before you rebuild with nickel - I was impressed by it's performance.

How are you finding the mini with other tanks ?, it seems to be reading the resistence wrong on my Kayfun , subtank and nautilus .

nuttyboy79

Have to agree with mrplop. I'm really liking the Subtank with a nickel build in the RBA, the Mega with the CLR performs really well too. 11/12 wraps around a 2.5mm bit Fiber Freaks cotton down the middle perfect everytime.

morritty

I can't for life of me find my RBA head for the subtank and i really want to try TC on the DNA 40. I don't think it was a v2 anyway, does anywhere local stock just the RBA head or am i better off hitting fasttech?

mrplop

jonski wrote: »

How are you finding the mini with other tanks ?, it seems to be reading the resistence wrong on my Kayfun , subtank and nautilus .

Not had any problems with incorrect readings - you will get some jumping around with the readings once you start vaping, especially with Ni.
The Kayfun V4 is a pig for jumpy readings because of the spring and the Subtank jumps about with the OC coils but it's consistent with the RBA.

mrplop

morritty wrote: »

I can't for life of me find my RBA head for the subtank and i really want to try TC on the DNA 40. I don't think it was a v2 anyway, does anywhere local stock just the RBA head or am i better off hitting fasttech?

ESI and Bestshop have them but they're €12 a pop, not the vendors fault but Kanger for charging so much for 'em.
I got some clones from Fasttech and they only cost a couple of Euro each - had to wait an age obviously. The clone RBA's were on the money including the packaging and engravings.

8mm

morritty wrote: »

I can't for life of me find my RBA head for the subtank and i really want to try TC on the DNA 40. I don't think it was a v2 anyway, does anywhere local stock just the RBA head or am i better off hitting fasttech?

http://www.thebestshop.eu/shop/clearomizers/611-kangertech-mini-rba-plus.html

€12 for it there

https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10014112/2390700-authentic-kangertech-subtank-mini-rba-plus-coil

$6.30 and shipping free

youdipstick

morritty wrote: »

I can't for life of me find my RBA head for the subtank and i really want to try TC on the DNA 40. I don't think it was a v2 anyway, does anywhere local stock just the RBA head or am i better off hitting fasttech?

I have the first version Subtank mini RBA that you are most welcome to have...never used.

morritty

youdipstick wrote: »

I have the first version Subtank mini RBA that you are most welcome to have...never used.

If youre sure, id be more than happy, PM me some details and i can throw a few quid to cover it and postage.

Didihno

JH_raheny wrote: »

iStick40 that should of course have been

Ah, thought I'd missed a device along the way!

Didihno

Well I rebuilt the Aromamizer with the .25mm nickel.
This time I twisted the wire doubled up and it made a fair difference to the performance, not to mention the strength of it.
The 8-9 wrap coil (spaced) came out at .2ohms, and after vaping a bit it has gone down to .14?
What I'm noticing is the very centre wraps seem to be burning up a bit compared to the rest. See attached pic.

Oh, and how are you guys cleaning your coils?
If you can't dry burn like Kanthal then what? Hot water and a gentle swab with cotton bud?

Didihno

youdipstick wrote: »

Are you locking in the resistance.

Was that for me?
If so, yeah I'm locking it in.

JH_raheny

What NI wire would people recommend ?
Is this any good

http://www.thebestshop.eu/shop/rebuildable-atomizers/311-nickel-wire-no-resistance.html

Didihno

JH_raheny wrote: »

What NI wire would people recommend ?
Is this any good

http://www.thebestshop.eu/shop/rebuildable-atomizers/311-nickel-wire-no-resistance.html

Seeing a lot of worryingly inconsistent info coming out about nickel wire.
Not sure its a safe thing to use now.
This is one where we need the science to be done urgently.

I'm using .25mm by a brand called crazy wire or something (got it in ecirette).
The wire itself is quite hard to work (very, very soft) with unless you double it up and twist it.

11214

Didihno wrote: »

Seeing a lot of worryingly inconsistent info coming out about nickel wire.
Not sure its a safe thing to use now.
This is one where we need the science to be done urgently.

I'm using .25mm by a brand called crazy wire or something (got it in ecirette).
The wire itself is quite hard to work (very, very soft) with unless you double it up and twist it.

I'm not building my own coils with nickel anymore I'm just sticking with pre made coils for tc and using kanthal for my regular builds.
I have had to change my juice mix to 50/50 for better wicking in tc though.

youdipstick

morritty wrote: »

If youre sure, id be more than happy, PM me some details and i can throw a few quid to cover it and postage.

Just PM me your address,we'll call it an early Xmas present :D:D

youdipstick

JH_raheny wrote: »

What NI wire would people recommend ?
Is this any good

http://www.thebestshop.eu/shop/rebuildable-atomizers/311-nickel-wire-no-resistance.html

That wire is fine,very hard to get anything above 99.5%,I did get mine from Cigreen at 99.6%

morritty

youdipstick wrote: »

Just PM me your address,we'll call it an early Xmas present :D:D

Thanks a mill mate, Pm has been sent.

slightly off topic, has anyone any recomendations for an easy but good NI200 build on a subtank head? and a Plume Veil RDA. It has to be 0.1 or over to work with a DNA 40 and what gauge wire should I buy? I can pop into ecirette on the way home from work.

youdipstick

morritty wrote: »

Thanks a mill mate, Pm has been sent.

slightly off topic, has anyone any recomendations for an easy but good NI200 build on a subtank head? and a Plume Veil RDA. It has to be 0.1 or over to work with a DNA 40 and what gauge wire should I buy? I can pop into ecirette on the way home from work.

2.5mm bit - 9 wraps - 28 AWG = 0.1

have a play with this http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?mat=ni200&r=0.1&awg=28&id=2.5

morritty

youdipstick wrote: »

2.5mm bit - 9 wraps - 28 AWG = 0.1

have a play with this http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?mat=ni200&r=0.1&awg=28&id=2.5

Ill give it a go later on.

Didihno

11214 wrote: »

I'm not building my own coils with nickel anymore I'm just sticking with pre made coils for tc and using kanthal for my regular builds.
I have had to change my juice mix to 50/50 for better wicking in tc though.

I have seen this elsewhere on the net too, what is the point of doing that though?
Its still nickel!



Unless its Titanium.

morritty

Well, picked up some nickel wire, all they had was 32AWG so made that work have a dual coil in a Plume Veil running 0.12 at 25W and 480F.
Damn its a good vape. Coils look awful but it works for now, I'm sure ill get better at it over time. Anyway.....Some pics

youdipstick

Nothing wrong with those coils,perfect resistance,nickel is hard to work with,any problem tightening down the plume veil screws,they look good,other rda & rta can be a pain with their screws,I always try to use the screw head if there is enough room to connect nickel.
Nickel & Titanium need a good tight connection to archive a stable resistance,titanium wire has a higher resistance than nickel,so less wraps or bigger bit.
I haven't tried building with titanium yet because I can't find it anywhere here on an Irish site.

morritty

youdipstick wrote: »

Nothing wrong with those coils,perfect resistance,nickel is hard to work with,any problem tightening down the plume veil screws,they look good,other rda & rta can be a pain with their screws,I always try to use the screw head if there is enough room to connect nickel.
Nickel & Titanium need a good tight connection to archive a stable resistance,titanium wire has a higher resistance than nickel,so less wraps or bigger bit.
I haven't tried building with titanium yet because I can't find it anywhere here on an Irish site.

The Plume Veil wasnt bad to work with, I tried a mutation x V2 and that had grub screws but i couldnt find the right allen key. I was able to screw down with a little blue screwdriver but I couldnt get it tight enough so....that to me is an excuse for a new dripper haha.

I think maybe ill order some 28AWG too it might be a little easier to work with and especially with the cotton, that is a bloody pain.

I noticed IrishVape has Titanium wire for 2.20, they say 26AWG but it doesnt say how long, I guess work a shot for for just over 2 euro http://irishvape.com/product/titanium-wire-ti/?v=79cba1185463

Didihno

morritty wrote: »

Well, picked up some nickel wire, all they had was 32AWG so made that work have a dual coil in a Plume Veil running 0.12 at 25W and 480F.
Damn its a good vape. Coils look awful but it works for now, I'm sure ill get better at it over time. Anyway.....Some pics

Hey I'm famous!

Nowt wrong with the coils, if they work, they are good enough IMO.
If you have a battery drill I'll tell you what, you should try twisting the wires.
Adds huge amount of durability and usability.
Also, for perfectly spaced coils I picked up a tip online about using a finely threaded screw or bolt to wrap around. Works a treat, perfectly spaced coils every time, plus a sturdy placement tool to hold the coil while you screw it in.

morritty

Didihno wrote: »

Hey I'm famous!

Nowt wrong with the coils, if they work, they are good enough IMO.
If you have a battery drill I'll tell you what, you should try twisting the wires.
Adds huge amount of durability and usability.
Also, for perfectly spaced coils I picked up a tip online about using a finely threaded screw or bolt to wrap around. Works a treat, perfectly spaced coils every time, plus a sturdy placement tool to hold the coil while you screw it in.

You know you've made it when a picture of your Boards username shows up on Boards :pac:

ill try the screw or bolt idea, i seen a video kast night, ill try find the link, but the guy wrapped cotton around a nail then wrapped around some 32AWG, thats also something on the list to try.

Really regret not bringing the plume veil to work, such a good vape but a pain to have to drip outside and carry bottles, sooner I coil up a tank the better

Didihno

morritty wrote: »

You know you've made it when a picture of your Boards username shows up on Boards :pac:

ill try the screw or bolt idea, i seen a video kast night, ill try find the link, but the guy wrapped cotton around a nail then wrapped around some 32AWG, thats also something on the list to try.

Really regret not bringing the plume veil to work, such a good vape but a pain to have to drip outside and carry bottles, sooner I coil up a tank the better

I'm off to find an underling to take care of my postings in future, I'm soo above you lot now.

morritty

Didihno wrote: »

I'm off to find an underling to take care of my postings in future, I'm soo above you lot now.

I demand royalties for putting you on the map.

Didihno

morritty wrote: »

I demand royalties for putting you on the map.

You'll get a footnote in my memoirs.
A very foot note.

morritty

Didihno wrote: »

You'll get a footnote in my memoirs.
A very foot note.

Deal

11214

Didihno wrote: »

I have seen this elsewhere on the net too, what is the point of doing that though?
Its still nickel!

Unless its Titanium.

It is from reading around and from what grim said but I'd differ somewhat in that I enjoy a vape with nickel.
Saying that I have had a mouthful of what I guess was hot nickel previously on an own built coil.
Investment wise I only spent around €10 on a coil of nickel but I still have six boxes of prebuilt nickel coils which cost a few bob but I've never had a bit of trouble with them.
I'm going to vape through them for the time being and then swap back to regular coils.

Didihno

11214 wrote: »

It is from reading around and from what grim said but I'd differ somewhat in that I enjoy a vape with nickel.
Saying that I have had a mouthful of what I guess was hot nickel previously on an own built coil.
Investment wise I only spent around €10 on a coil of nickel but I still have six boxes of prebuilt nickel coils which cost a few bob but I've never had a bit of trouble with them.
I'm going to vape through them for the time being and then swap back to regular coils.

Yeah I'm just not sure (is anyone?).
I mean, the properties of nickel require a temperature three time what we vape it at to melt, unless its being vaped in an extremely acidic liquid, which I think is physically impossible to vape, because extremely acidic.
I'll finish out my nickel wire anyway, only another 8 metres to go, and see what happens next.