11214 wrote: » It is from reading around and from what grim said but I'd differ somewhat in that I enjoy a vape with nickel. Saying that I have had a mouthful of what I guess was hot nickel previously on an own built coil. Investment wise I only spent around €10 on a coil of nickel but I still have six boxes of prebuilt nickel coils which cost a few bob but I've never had a bit of trouble with them. I'm going to vape through them for the time being and then swap back to regular coils.
Didihno wrote: » I have seen this elsewhere on the net too, what is the point of doing that though? Its still nickel! Unless its Titanium.
Didihno wrote: » You'll get a footnote in my memoirs. A very foot note.
morritty wrote: » I demand royalties for putting you on the map.
Didihno wrote: » I'm off to find an underling to take care of my postings in future, I'm soo above you lot now.
morritty wrote: » You know you've made it when a picture of your Boards username shows up on Boards :pac: ill try the screw or bolt idea, i seen a video kast night, ill try find the link, but the guy wrapped cotton around a nail then wrapped around some 32AWG, thats also something on the list to try. Really regret not bringing the plume veil to work, such a good vape but a pain to have to drip outside and carry bottles, sooner I coil up a tank the better
Didihno wrote: » Hey I'm famous! Nowt wrong with the coils, if they work, they are good enough IMO. If you have a battery drill I'll tell you what, you should try twisting the wires. Adds huge amount of durability and usability. Also, for perfectly spaced coils I picked up a tip online about using a finely threaded screw or bolt to wrap around. Works a treat, perfectly spaced coils every time, plus a sturdy placement tool to hold the coil while you screw it in.
morritty wrote: » Well, picked up some nickel wire, all they had was 32AWG so made that work have a dual coil in a Plume Veil running 0.12 at 25W and 480F. Damn its a good vape. Coils look awful but it works for now, I'm sure ill get better at it over time. Anyway.....Some pics
youdipstick wrote: » Nothing wrong with those coils,perfect resistance,nickel is hard to work with,any problem tightening down the plume veil screws,they look good,other rda & rta can be a pain with their screws,I always try to use the screw head if there is enough room to connect nickel. Nickel & Titanium need a good tight connection to archive a stable resistance,titanium wire has a higher resistance than nickel,so less wraps or bigger bit. I haven't tried building with titanium yet because I can't find it anywhere here on an Irish site.
11214 wrote: » I'm not building my own coils with nickel anymore I'm just sticking with pre made coils for tc and using kanthal for my regular builds. I have had to change my juice mix to 50/50 for better wicking in tc though.
youdipstick wrote: » 2.5mm bit - 9 wraps - 28 AWG = 0.1 have a play with this http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?mat=ni200&r=0.1&awg=28&id=2.5
morritty wrote: » Thanks a mill mate, Pm has been sent. slightly off topic, has anyone any recomendations for an easy but good NI200 build on a subtank head? and a Plume Veil RDA. It has to be 0.1 or over to work with a DNA 40 and what gauge wire should I buy? I can pop into ecirette on the way home from work.
youdipstick wrote: » Just PM me your address,we'll call it an early Xmas present :D:D
JH_raheny wrote: » What NI wire would people recommend ? Is this any goodhttp://www.thebestshop.eu/shop/rebuildable-atomizers/311-nickel-wire-no-resistance.html
morritty wrote: » If youre sure, id be more than happy, PM me some details and i can throw a few quid to cover it and postage.
Didihno wrote: » Seeing a lot of worryingly inconsistent info coming out about nickel wire. Not sure its a safe thing to use now. This is one where we need the science to be done urgently. I'm using .25mm by a brand called crazy wire or something (got it in ecirette). The wire itself is quite hard to work (very, very soft) with unless you double it up and twist it.
youdipstick wrote: » Are you locking in the resistance.
JH_raheny wrote: » iStick40 that should of course have been
youdipstick wrote: » I have the first version Subtank mini RBA that you are most welcome to have...never used.
morritty wrote: » I can't for life of me find my RBA head for the subtank and i really want to try TC on the DNA 40. I don't think it was a v2 anyway, does anywhere local stock just the RBA head or am i better off hitting fasttech?
jonski wrote: » How are you finding the mini with other tanks ?, it seems to be reading the resistence wrong on my Kayfun , subtank and nautilus .
