Long distance road biking and punctures

Paulossi

I have one long distance cycle before (130km) and didn't get a puncture. I am planning to do more but my luck won't last forever.

The thought of fixing a puncture (particularily a rear wheel puncture) by the side of the road is not something I would look forward to or even know where to start.

Any advice or suggestions?

Should I bite the bullet and get mini pump and bring spares with me? If so any product recs?

Or do these tube filler sprays work with a standard tube? If they do, how far could I reasonable expect to go?

jon1981

Seriously, practice it! It's not hard and it's a skill you must have. I practised it in the house, i can change a tube by the side of the road in under 10 mins. These filler things might fine (never used them), but what if the tube is so badly damaged it doesn't work?

youtube has thousands of videos with hints and tips.

Rear wheel tube change is not a big scary thing:

Drop the gear to the high gear ( low cog), whip the wheel off, lean the bike on the ground but be careful of the derailleur and not to bang it. let the air out, use a lever to get the tyre over the rim, whip the tube out, run the finger inside the tube to check for glass or nails, slightly inflate the new tube, slide it into the tyre, massage the tyre back onto the wheel (dont use the lever, you might pinch or rip the tyre) and stick it back on. As you have dropped the gear to the highest, you can easily guide the chain onto the right cog.

nak

Always carry 2 tubes, pump and tyre levels, multi tool not a bad idea either. Very easy to fix a puncture. I only use sealant for tubs (might save the tyre) or tubeless MTB tyres.

Darkglasses

Punctures aren't that common for me either (only had one in 4 years) but it is 100% something you should know when you're going out. It's a very easy job, you just need tyre levers, a tube and a pump. There's 100s of videos showing how to do it on YT

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6O074i8xPKo

Jawgap

Jaysus, I'd break into a cold sweat at the thought of cycling 13 km, never mind 130 km without a couple of spare tubes, levers and a mini-pump on my person!

I carry a pair of spare tubes, levers, a mini-pump, a CO2 canister (or two) and a shraeder adapter (in the handle of the pump).

For short spins, the mini-pump is a Specialised AirTool - while on longer runs where I might carry a backpack it's the Lezyne Micro Floor Drive.

Tubes are Continentals - picked up 20 as part of a deal a few years ago and have about 12 left.

Paulossi

jon1981 wrote: »

Seriously, practice it! It's not hard and it's a skill you must have. I practised it in the house, i can change a tube by the side of the road in under 10 mins. These filler things might fine (never used them), but what if the tube is so badly damaged it doesn't work?

youtube has thousands of videos with hints and tips.

Rear wheel tube change is not a big scary thing:

Drop the gear to the high gear ( low cog), whip the wheel off, lean the bike on the ground but be careful of the derailleur and not to bang it. let the air out, use a lever to get the tyre over the rim, whip the tube out, run the finger inside the tube to check for glass or nails, slightly inflate the new tube, slide it into the tyre, massage the tyre back onto the wheel (dont use the lever, you might pinch or rip the tyre) and stick it back on. As you have dropped the gear to the highest, you can easily guide the chain onto the right cog.

Thanks for the advice. I have changed tubes in the past - on mountains bikes only. They have either taken me forever or I nipped the tube when putting it back on or in one case the entire gears got misalligned and it cost me to repair. I suppose if I had positive experice I wouldn't be so reluctant.

I am generally handy so maybe it was the bike :-)


Any recommendations on a mini pump or are they all pretty much the same?

JBokeh

If you can remove the valve core from your tube i'd recommend sticking a bit of Stan's ore Joe's sealant into it, it will avoid you having to stop for a thorn or small prick into the tube.

Get practiced at changing tubes anyway, it is super easy, and for the sake of an hour sitting in front of the tv some evening with the wheel and tyre in front of you pulling it on and off a few times you'll find it invaluable

jon1981

Paulossi wrote: »

or in one case the entire gears got misalligned and it cost me to repair.

Yeah that's why it's always a good idea to drop the chain to the smallest cog before taking off, you won't get confused putting it back on.

Jawgap

Paulossi wrote: »

.....


Any recommendations on a mini pump or are they all pretty much the same?

IMO, it's one of those things that you get what you pay for. As a minimum it should be alu body. Forget about ones with in built gauges because you are never going to be able to get it up to high enough pressures with a mini-pump and you're never going to over inflate the tyres.

After that it's a matter of personal choice - the smaller the pump, the easier it is to carry, but the trade off is low volume which means longer pumping to inflate a tube and lower max pump pressure.

Personally, I don't think you can go too far wrong with a Topeak, something like this

http://www.halfords.ie/cycling/tools-maintenance/pumps-puncture-repair/topeak-road-pocket-bike-pump

Cee-Jay-Cee

So you were on a 130km spin with no tubes or puncture repair kit/pump???

Another tip for changing a rear wheel is to turn the bike upside down, take your gloves off and slip them on the hoods to prevent them getting scratched or damaged.

I put one bead/side of the tyre on the rim first, then slightly inflate the tube and put it into the tyre then fold the other side of the tyre on to the rim.

It's not that big of a job and with practice you can be back in the road within 5 minutes.

Paulossi

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

So you were on a 130km spin with no tubes or puncture repair kit/pump??? .

Yep - I wasn't alone though and had expertise at hand if needed. Can't keep sponging forever though!

Paulossi

General consensus is to start getting my hands dirty. Think your right. Going to get myself the kit needed and start practising so. I'll aim to be proficient by the 100km Great Dublin Cycle on 13th.

Alek

A shot of tyre sealant in both tubes (I use Bontrager TLR) - no punctures for over 4000km for me.

cython

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

So you were on a 130km spin with no tubes or puncture repair kit/pump???

Another tip for changing a rear wheel is to turn the bike upside down, take your gloves off and slip them on the hoods to prevent them getting scratched or damaged.

I put one bead/side of the tyre on the rim first, then slightly inflate the tube and put it into the tyre then fold the other side of the tyre on to the rim.

It's not that big of a job and with practice you can be back in the road within 5 minutes.

Ahem!

:pac::pac::pac::pac:

jon1981

cython wrote: »

Ahem!

:pac::pac::pac::pac:

I suggested an approach that didn't violate said rule :cool:

lean the bike on the ground but be careful of the derailleur and not to bang it

not even wrong

Paulossi wrote: »

General consensus is to start getting my hands dirty.

Carry a pair of disposable latex gloves tucked in with your spare tube and you don't even have to get your hands dirty.

Brian?

Alek wrote: »

A shot of tyre sealant in both tubes (I use Bontrager TLR) - no punctures for over 4000km for me.

Funny, no tyre sealant and I'm not far off that myself. Continental gp4000s pumped to 110psi.

micar

I have started to bring some fairy liquid in a little bottle. Small bit on the edge of the rim really helps putting the last section of tyre onto the rim.

Alek

Funny, no tyre sealant and I'm not far off that myself. Continental gp4000s pumped to 110psi.

I truly believe you.

But then, at least 1/2 of my distance is via the inner city glass fields.

Boscoirl

I can look at my bike and get a puncture

Brian?

Alek wrote: »

I truly believe you.

But then, at least 1/2 of my distance is via the inner city glass fields.

That makes a huge difference alright. I haven't cycled in the city in any of that time. I occasionally skirt the edge of Tallaght, that's as urban as I get.

Bloggsie

bring spares tubes, check the inside of the tyre before inserting the new tube for stones glass etc & inflate, once you get home repair the punctured tube.

practise helps(as I found out to my cost a wee while ago) took to effin long to get it sorted!

Thud

Alek wrote: »

I truly believe you.

But then, at least 1/2 of my distance is via the inner city glass fields.

My only punctures have been inside the m50

07Lapierre

Another tip: once you've fitted the new tube, do not use tyre levers to put the tyre on! I'd also recommend learning how to remove and refit a road tyre without using tyre levers at all.

adrian522

My main issue is that my mini pump seems incapable of getting enough air into the tyre for anything other than a "get you home" shuffle.

jon1981

I guess it depends on the pump, I can get 90-100 psi into mine with my handpum p, 23mm tyres, i way about 74kg, so I guess that pressure would suffice for me.

mirrormatrix

Anyone have the lezyne road drive mini pump? Bought it based on great online reviews until I got stuck once about 40 km from home, completely unable to pump up my spare tube because it unscrewed the inner core from them every time I tried to take the pump off after inflation. Every time I go out I now carry a backup pump in my jersey pocket.

Anyone else have this experience? I could buy thread locker I guess but that seems like an awful pain in the backside.

jon1981

I've had this problem with certain tube types. I try not to screw the value on too tight.

iwillhtfu

07Lapierre wrote: »

Another tip: once you've fitted the new tube, do not use tyre levers to put the tyre on! I'd also recommend learning how to remove and refit a road tyre without using tyre levers at all.

This isn't possible with all tyres tbh. Just be careful when using levers to get tyre back on its easy to pinch the new tube against the wheel rim with the lever.

jon1981

iwillhtfu wrote: »

This isn't possible with all tyres tbh. Just be careful when using levers to get tyre back on its easy to pinch the new tube against the wheel rim with the lever.

I thought it was impossible to get my conti gp4000s 23mm onto the rim without the levers, a small lady in a bike shop proved me wrong and showed me up big style!

Also to add insult to injury, the reason I had gone into the shop in the first place was because I had ripped the sh*te out of my tube when I used the levers to put the tyre back on, I was in a hurry when i got a pinch flat at the central bank.

07Lapierre

iwillhtfu wrote: »

This isn't possible with all tyres tbh. Just be careful when using levers to get tyre back on its easy to pinch the new tube against the wheel rim with the lever.

I use Conti gp4000 tyres and I don't use tyre levers. There fitted to Shimano, mavic and ffwd wheels.

iwillhtfu

07Lapierre wrote: »

I use Conti gp4000 tyres and I don't use tyre levers. There fitted to Shimano, mavic and ffwd wheels.

Delighted for you where as I use gp4000s2 and they don't roll onto mavic wheels.

Therefore the reason for my post I was not trying to prove you wrong.

jon1981

iwillhtfu wrote: »

Delighted for you where as I use gp4000s2 and they don't roll onto mavic wheels.

Therefore the reason for my post I was not trying to prove you wrong.

They roll out Fulcrum 7s :cool: (though your wheels are better :P)

iwillhtfu

jon1981 wrote: »

They roll out Fulcrum 7s :cool: (though your wheels are better :P)

Maybe I just need to hit the gym more

jon1981

iwillhtfu wrote: »

Maybe I just need to hit the gym more

As I said a small lady showed me up by getting the tyre on in under 2 mins without breaking a sweat, certainly was a knack to it!

kal7

always have tubes that fit your wheels. Many get caught out by having short valve length and deep dish wheels.

07Lapierre

iwillhtfu wrote: »

Delighted for you where as I use gp4000s2 and they don't roll onto mavic wheels.

Therefore the reason for my post I was not trying to prove you wrong.

I wasn't trying to prove you wrong either. I'm just reporting my experience with my tyres and my wheels.

I do have a set of deep section wheels and getting the tyre on is "a challenge", but I've always managed to get the tyre on.

I did have a set of Vittoria tyres and I found them impossible to get on (by hand). And that was before I had even put in the tube! So I decided there and then not to use them. I figured if I cant get the tyre on in the comfort of my garage, what hope have I doing it on the side of the road on a cold wet winters night?

iwillhtfu

kal7 wrote: »

always have tubes that fit your wheels. Many get caught out by having short valve length and deep dish wheels.

I was that soldier.

I had valve extenders on my tube in the wheel which were grand. Do you think I could get the bleedin thing off to put on the spare when I punctured.

A lesson was learned that day and the extenders were fecked over the wall.

Brian?

07Lapierre wrote: »

I wasn't trying to prove you wrong either. I'm just reporting my experience with my tyres and my wheels.

I do have a set of deep section wheels and getting the tyre on is "a challenge", but I've always managed to get the tyre on.

I did have a set of Vittoria tyres and I found them impossible to get on (by hand). And that was before I had even put in the tube! So I decided there and then not to use them. I figured if I cant get the tyre on in the comfort of my garage, what hope have I doing it on the side of the road on a cold wet winters night?

I can do it with any tyre an any rim that I've ever tried. Some people just don't have the knack and I can never understand why.

Last bit of tyre to go facing away from you. Thumbs on the braking surface facing you. Use your fingers to roll the tyre on, simples. I found gator skins a little more difficult but still manageable.

iwillhtfu

Brian? wrote: »

I can do it with any tyre an any rim that I've ever tried. Some people just don't have the knack and I can never understand why.

Last bit of tyre to go facing away from you. Thumbs on the braking surface facing you. Use your fingers to roll the tyre on, simples. I found gator skins a little more difficult but still manageable.

You may try mine sometime. They'll probably go on if enough time is spent at it but for the sake of 2 secs with a lever I fail to see the need to break a sweat.

Also go F yourself for the can never understand why comment

Brian?

iwillhtfu wrote: »

You may try mine sometime. They'll probably go on if enough time is spent at it but for the sake of 2 secs with a lever I fail to see the need to break a sweat.

My worry with using levers is pinching the tube putting the tyre back on. I come from a time where tyre levers were actually soup spoons. Fado fado and all that.

Brian?

iwillhtfu wrote: »

Also go F yourself for the can never understand why comment

Ah now, we all have different talents in life. I can't cook pancakes, no matter how I try they come out in ****e.

jon1981

Brian? wrote: »

My worry with using levers is pinching the tube putting the tyre back on. I come from a time where tyre levers were actually soup spoons. Fado fado and all that.

Made that mistake when I thought I was being as gentle as a lamb.. Hence the visit to the little lady with the tyre handling skills and my dumbfounded head on me as to why this f**king tube won't inflate... surely it must be the pump...nope, she took the tube back out and sure enough I had ripped the sh*te out it! :pac:

hardCopy

07Lapierre wrote: »

Another tip: once you've fitted the new tube, do not use tyre levers to put the tyre on! I'd also recommend learning how to remove and refit a road tyre without using tyre levers at all.

I've yet to figure out a way to do this with Gatorskins.

07Lapierre

Brian? wrote: »

I can do it with any tyre an any rim that I've ever tried. Some people just don't have the knack and I can never understand why.

Last bit of tyre to go facing away from you. Thumbs on the braking surface facing you. Use your fingers to roll the tyre on, simples. I found gator skins a little more difficult but still manageable.

Deep section wheels can be more difficult as you can't roll the tyres on as easy as you can with normal rims. At least I can't!