Casing stuck in barrel

dodderangler

As title says I have a empty bullet casing stuck in my barrel.
Cleaning rod broke as I tried to push it back out. Can't get a grip on it with a flexy pliers.
Any suggestions on how to remove it?
Gun is a .223 savage axis.

Cass

What rod was it that it broke so easily? Was there any stiffness when lifting the bolt? Is the case head still attached?

Your only safe way is to use another rod. Any .22 rod will do. Push it down slowly until you make a firm contact with the case. Then a tap of the palm of the hand should remove it. If the case head has separated, other than serious issues with the rifle/ammo, no rod will remove it.

If the extreme happens it could be a case (no pun) of removing the bolt, drilling the bottom of the case (the case head) and then "hooking" it to pull it out. If the case head is separated then you might be looking at a gunsmith if you cannot get a grip on the case body.

dodderangler

Yes when removing the bolt it was very stiff.

Cass

Is the head of the case still attached? IOW is the case still whole?

What ammo are you using?

dodderangler

Cass wrote: »

Is the head of the case still attached? IOW is the case still whole?

What ammo are you using?

The head is still attached.
Ammo is Barnaul .223 hp 55gr

Cass

That is that steel cased crap? Like Prvi ammo.

How did you break the rod? I only ask because a tap of a rod should dislodge most stuff cases? It would be a concern if it's so stuck that the rod breaks before the case gives way.

yubabill1

I've looked-up your rifle in the hunting forum; could be a couple of things.

Your rifle may have a tight chamber - you say it's a custom - and a lot of the Barnaul/Tulammo Russian ammo is actually 5.56 x 45, rather than .223. The 5.56 runs a higher chamber pressure, which may not work well in rifles with tight .223 chambers.

Also .223 ammo is slightly different at the shoulder.

A good guide is the barrel twist rate; 1:12 usually means a .223 chamber, while faster twists like 1:9 or 1:8, 1:7 usually have 5.56 chambers.

Another possible cause of case sticking could be a tiny amount of rust in the chamber, which can be remedied by polishing.

The case should come out with a firm tap from your cleaning rod.

If the head is separated, insert a cleaning brush from the breech until the brush head is partially through the case, with about an inch of bristle sticking out the top, give a little twist and pull the brush back firmly and positively.

Otherwise, I'm sure the dealer will find someone to remove it for you.

Cass

.223 Rem and 5.56 Nato are pretty much identical in terms of brass. One was developed from the other. The two main differences between them are:

1. Pressure
2. Throat length

Pressure.

• 5.56 brass is thicker than .223 rem. It has to be. It's primary use is military/semi auto firearms. It is loaded to much higher pressure specs. In a 5.56 chambered rifle the maximum pressure is approx. 62,000 psi. In a .223 rifle it's averaging the 52-55,000 psi mark. So straight away you've higher pressure in the Nato round.
• Putting a .223 into a 5.56 rifle will not cause any damage, but the other way around and you are looking at:
  • Stiff bolt lift/closure
  • Extra wear and tear on the firearm
  • Catastrophic failure of the gun
• The excess pressure from a 5.56 in a .223 round will cause the case to expand rapidly and as such the case the can become lodged or stuck. Any fouling, or as said above, rust in the chamber (on the chamber or case) will exacerbate this.

Throat

• The throat of the chamber is the area just ahead of the neck. Also referred to as freebore/leade, it is an unrifled section of the bore. In 5.56 chambered rifles this is usually longer than in .223 as the 5.56 ammo has a longer OAL (OverAll Length) than .223 Rem. While loading a .223 into a 5.56 won't cause anything more than inaccuracy loading a 5.56 into a .223 rem creates problems. The 5.56, being longer, may start to or fully engage the rifling of the barrel. If it's too long then the act of closing the bolt may infact slightly seat the bullet deeper into the case. This has the effect of creating greater pressures, and as we discussed above, with the pressure of the 5.56 already being greater than .223 you may well exceed (by a large margin) the safety pressures of the rifle resulting in damage or catastrophic failure of the firearm.

All the above is technical, but still easily understood information. As part of the reloading scheme in the midlands had to learn all this over the last number of years because an accident with a firearm usually results in more than just a bruised ego. There is so much to watch for, and the fact that the same problems arise from factory ammo in the form of 5.56 or .223 rem ammo mean you need to be aware of it too.



Was the bolt stiff to life? You answered yes so we know there was pressure issues. However follow on questions that need to be answered:

1. Was the bolt stiff to close?
2. With the bolt removed is the primer still in the case head?
3. How was the rod broken?

1. If the bolt was stiff to close then this could indicate that the ammo is too long for the rifle and may well be 5.56 suited ammo. In either case you need to stop using it immediately.
2. If the primer is gone then it's another sign of excess pressure, and again another warning to stop using the ammo immediately.
3. If the case is so badly stuck that the rod broke rather than the case give way then it may need a professional to remove it.

Yubabill1 - CZ, Tikka, Steyr, etc all do a version of the .223 Rem in 1:9 twist. They are designed for 62gr up to 75 gr bullets. While the 5.56 might cycle in the action/chamber the issue of pressure still exists. Some manufacturers allow for the firing of both from their rifles, but the only way to know is to ring them.

The other issue i would be more concerned with is dealers selling 5.56 ammo to people with .223s. They should be making the differences and potential problems with using the wrong type of ammo in the wrong rifle, very clear to the buyers. I suppose the same goes for the buyer in that they should know, but 99% of people trust what a dealer says or sells them.

yubabill1

+1 Cass.

Just to add that 5.56 x 45 also comes in 55gr.

***********NEVER SHOOT 5.56 X 45 IN .223 CHAMBERS*************

Nekarsulm

With a new rifle, I would recommend that you go to a qualified gunsmith.
Personally, and hating to give in to a mechanical problem, I would remove the bolt and drill out the primer, then try hooking a piece of heavy wire into the hole and pull it out.
Might it be worth spraying a shot of penetrating oil down the barrel and leaving overnight?
If that didn't work, I would progress to brazing one of those "eazi-out" stud extractors to a length of light metal bar( to get enough length to go the length of the action), and screwing it into the primer hole and try and pull it out. You could fashion the bar into a mini slide hammer, and if that doesn't work, THEN go to a qualified gunsmith, with, as they say, "your cap in your hands"!

http://www.stationaryengineparts.com/eazi-out-set-814-0.html

clivej

Hydraulic hammer it out

With your muzzle up fill the barrel with heavy oil, leave no air bubbles in it.
Now with tight fitting brass rod hammer that into the muzzle. The oil will push out the case.

I've never tried this but seems to work OK.

Grizzly 45

Heard of the above been done with grease and hydraulic oil

Cass

As i said a couple of times it's a concern that the rod broke before the case gave way. It could be down to a fault in the rod, two/three piece rod being used where the weakest point is where they connect, or simply (and there is absolutely no offence intended lad) a cheap rod.

I still fail to see how a case can get such a grip that hammering it out with a rod or even the method that clive suggested (good one by the way) would not move it. I've seen some stuck cases and one where the smithy had to remove the barrel and get it out that way, but if the case head is still attached hammering should work.

dodderangler - can you please tell us is the case head (bit the primer sits in, that the bolt face goes against) still there? How the rod broke and if it was a one piece or two/three piece? These are important questions. We can deal with the ammo issue later on.

dodderangler

Sorry lads internet was down.
I flew to my dads after It happened and it was his cleaning rod that broke.
It was a 3 piece one so not as strong as the 1 piece. A tap of the palm and it broke. Also it's an old one aswell.
I not long home from work so I haven't looked at it but I have a rod that's a lot more sturdy an one piece which I will give a go and will update.
Advice and info is we'll appreciate lads so much obliged.

Nekarsulm

how are you getting on, Dodder?

If you are going the Hydraulic route, perhaps put a cleaning patch on the end of the drift, and watch out for oil squirting out of the rifle-ings grooves. wear goggles. Nek.

dodderangler

Apologies. I had forgotten about my reply on this.
Sprayed some oil to both ends of casing an my father got a small metal rod same diameter as the cleaning rod:
Good but gentle smack on the palm an out she came. Gave gun a good clean and she was back out shooting no problem.
Unfortunately because of work and another baby on the way my new rifle is now for sale.