Laser Borescope

hexosan

Has anyone bought the cheaper Chinese boresights what are they like

Are they a waste of money.

Also seen them for .22 pistols

meathstevie

I think you may well be wasting your time. Bought one like it years ago, just a fancy laser pointer and useless for anything else.

Grizzly 45

Good for seeing is the scope anywhere on the paper at short ranges ,after that ,not much good for anything.

Cass

Laser Boresighters are not a tool designed to get you on the bull from the off, but a tool to get you onto paper.

The laser is a "line of sight" device. Meaning it shines a light in a straight line. No bullet travels like that so it can never zero the rifle for you. What it can do is help you see where the bore of the barrel is pointing, to a certain degree of accuracy, and then you can asdjust the scope to match the laser's dot. Once on paper you can fine tune the POI by adjusting after each shot.

For the price it's not bad, but unless you are zeroing on a regular basis a look down the bore will do the same job for free. Here is a post i wrote a while ago. Covers the basics, and works a treat.

Cass wrote:

No. Personally i would start at 50 yds. Go back to basics. Open rings and remove scope. Check ring bases are securely fixed to rifle/rail.Place scope back into ring bases. Check for eye relief. Place the top piece of the rings back on and loosely screw down. Do not tighten yet. Once again check your eye relief. Use either sprit levels or the piece of string method to line up the crosshairs on your scope (or whatever works for you). Without moving the scope tighten down all screws. Now your scope is back on and ready to be sighted in.

Turn the clicks on the scope (elevation) down to the lowest setting. Now turn the clicks on your windage adjustment all the way left (or right). Now turn it in the other direction while keeping count of the mintes/clicks. If its (for talks sake) 50 moa turn it back 25. Now your windage is centralised. Place the rifle in a clamp and check its level. When you peer down the barrel make sure the circle made by the muzzle is central in the circle made by the breach.



Move the rifle (not your head) until the target (at least 2ft x 1.5ft with concentric circles)



can be seen . Now keep the target in view through the barrel while trying to keep both "circles" central. Once you think you have the target in the barrel and all aspects centralised and secured, reclamp the rifle again making sure nothing moves. Now look through the scope and see where your crosshairs are in relation to the target. Turn up your elevation turret until you are approx. level with where you have sighted the barrel. Go between the barrel sight and scope and try to narrow down the difference in "point of impact". Adjust elevation and windage as appropriate.

Bolt in and load a round. Steady yourself and fire. Check your point of impact. Adjust your scope the necessary clicks to compesate for wind drift and high or low impact. Your scope is probably .25" click value at 100yds so don't forget you'll have half that movement at 50yds. So if you are 2" out it will take 16 clicks to move the 2" rather than the 8 clicks at 100yds. Don't forget that this is scope movement, as in straight line of sight. The trajectory of the bullet being used will determine whether the full amount of clicks is needed or if more are. Anyway load a second round after adjusting the scope and fire. You should be very close if not in the bull. Adjust scope again if necessary. Load and fire a third round. this one should be in the bull (weather and shooter permitting).

Make note of the turret markings and record them as your 50 yd zero. Now move to 100yds. Fresh target. Without adjusting the scope fire at the 100yd target. Take note of the bullet drop and adjust your scope accordingly to compensate. Fire another 2 or 3 rounds to establish a group. When you are happy with your group, record the turret markings and if possible zero the turrets and keep as your 100 yd zero. You can then move to 200 and 300 if you want. Fire and adjust the scope. Record the bullet drop and click value to compensate ans voila you have your drop chart started.

Of course you could always go for a bore sighter/ laser guide and cut out half the crap i just wrote. Whatever works for you. If you find when firing at the 50 or 100yd targets that the rifle cannot keep a group or still will not hit paper then i'm afraid it may be a bit more serious than just needing to be rezeroed. At all stages keep checking screws and making sure all items are tight.

Hope this is of some help.

meathstevie

On a side note, there's laser bore sighting equipment available mounted in caliber specific cases that fit in a rifle or pistol chamber like a normal cartridge would...far more accurate and far more expensive. Like Cass said, unless you're zeroing guns on a very regular basis not worth your while.

daithi55

i have one does the job gets ya on paper
saves a few bullets paid for mine in no time at 1.50 a bullet

FISMA

hexosan wrote: »

Are they a waste of money.

Probably.

I have the Site Lite and it is great.

Some of those cheap lights sold as LASERS are not really lasers at all.