Detailing chat

quadrifoglio verde

Cheers for the delivery curran, the note on the inside was a nice personal touch

Can't wait to have this thesis finished so I can spend many hours correcting the paintwork on the 159
Like Preds, scratchy would be a fantastic nickname for it

Just noticed above that you advise letting it drip dry between fallout remover and tar remover?
Any reason why you couldn't dry it with clean old microfibers?

Curran

quadrifoglio verde wrote: »

Just noticed above that you advise letting it drip dry between fallout remover and tar remover?
Any reason why you couldn't dry it with clean old microfibers?

Well you could dry it, but thats quite a lot of effort. The reason you'd dry with a microfiber drying towel is to prevent water spotting, but later the polish will remove any of this.
And it doesnt have to be bone dry, just the majority of the water off the surface so not to dilute the tar / iron remover.

quadrifoglio verde

I'm just thinking from the point of view of hanging around waiting for the thing to dry....although there's probably another job that could be done anyway while waiting

Curran

There's always something to go get, or tidy away, or get ready for the next step!!

Washing out buckets, swapping trigger heads, diluting something, etc, etc

166man

Quick question lads, how much would a chap be looking at to get a soft top roof cleaned and sealed and all that (if such a thing exists?)?

I should probably just give Ian in Elite a ring to be honest..:D

punisher5112

166man wrote: »

Quick question lads, how much would a chap be looking at to get a soft top roof cleaned and sealed and all that (if such a thing exists?)?

I should probably just give Ian in Elite a ring to be honest..:D

Could be done by oneself but need the right gear.

SoupyNorman

Curran wrote: »

Hi there!
So minimum, you will need 2 buckets, a good quality wash mitt and drying towel, and a pH neutral shampoo - otherwise you are wasting your time spending time and effort trying to get it right, only to undo it all again after a few washes. Those are the basic items you'll need to maintain the finish you achieve.

After that; you'll need tar remover, fallout (iron) remover, claybar, polish, and a wax or sealant

Wash the car and let it drip dry
Apply tar remover
Rinse and allow drip dry
Apply fallout remover
Rinse and allow drip dry
Clay the car
Wash the car and dry with towel

....at this point your car is decontaminated - fully cleansed, in a way that regular washing cant achieve.

The apply / work in the polish
Buff of the polish
Apply a wax or sealant
Buff of the wax or sealant and repeat last two steps to have two coats on the car

Stand back and realise that the time, few quid and a lot of effort, and even after all the cursing as to why you started it at all....was actually worth it!

Hope this helps!
Any further questions, dont hesitate to fire me a PM!

Thanks a mill, have this printed out!

micks_address

Hi guys,
Any hope of removing scratch on this panel? Its just over right temp adjuster.
Thanks
Mick

micks_address

micks_address wrote: »

Hi guys,
Any hope of removing scratch on this panel? Its just over right temp adjuster.
Thanks
Mick

You can see it more clearly here

edburg

No basically, say 3 choices are to fill n paint or find replacement in scrappy/buy new or put up with it.

can anyone recommend some type of wipe for bird ****e?
Something I can keep in the car and not need water etc
obviously dont want something thats going to remove the wax and leave a streak .

MetzgerMeister

Armor All do car wash wipes but they're not that easy to come by these days. You'll often see them in the auto accessories section in petrol stations.

markc1184

BrownFinger wrote: »

can anyone recommend some type of wipe for bird ****e?
Something I can keep in the car and not need water etc
obviously dont want something thats going to remove the wax and leave a streak .

I have used the AutoGlym wipes. Never had an issue with it stripping wax and I'd usually just wipe the area with a cloth to get rid of any residue or water spots. They aren't exactly cheap for what you get, I think around €8 for maybe 10 wipes but are currently 3 for 2 in Halfords.

Mick F

Keep a bottle of quick detailer and a microfibre in the car. Soak the **** for half a minute with the QD and then flick it off with the microfibre rather than rubbing. Give it another go if there's any left. This removes all of it with no impact to any LSP.

vectra

Roll of Kitchen paper in the boot and a bottle of plain water
Place folded tissue on Crap. Soak with some water,
Let it there for a minute or so. Gently wipe crap away. Never fails to work for me on a waxed/sealed car.

MetzgerMeister

vectra wrote: »

Roll of Kitchen paper in the boot and a bottle of plain water
Place folded tissue on Crap. Soak with some water,
Let it there for a minute or so. Gently wipe crap away. Never fails to work for me on a waxed/sealed car.

This is actually the best idea IMO. being able to let the wet tissue sit on top of the sh!t means that it will be liquid when it comes time for removal therefore reducing the risk of scratching the paint.

Don't just dampen the tissue though, impregnate it with water.

Cheers lads!

MetzgerMeister

Just make sure you clean your finger before attempting this or you'll have to start all over again :pac:

traco

166man wrote: »

Quick question lads, how much would a chap be looking at to get a soft top roof cleaned and sealed and all that (if such a thing exists?)?

I should probably just give Ian in Elite a ring to be honest..:D

I've just done mine, tried a few things before and lots of research and advice pointed me to the Autoglym. I did buy the CarPro Cquartz to seal it but after extensive washing and scrubbing I used the Auotglym protector also for two reasons:
1 - being that they should be 100% compatible if any of the cleaner was left after extensive rinsing and 2 - because I just cannot get all the stains off the roof, its vastly improved but not perfect and its also faded over the support bars. Hence the plan is now to re-clean in spring and then dye the roof and seal using the Cquartz after that process.

Its not hard - just takes time. I washed it Tuesday evening and pulled it in to let it dry. Washed and rinsed it 3 times and scrubbed as hard as I was comfortable. I pulled it in as I had to go and masked and applied the sealer today. Masking took the longest and even then I got a spot on the paint. Its not the easiest to remove so mask everything well.

Its going to sit there now until tomorrow evening when it will be out for the weekend (its a weekend plaything) and I'll let you know if he sealant performed.

Its not hard just a bit time consuming and you need to allow 24 hours for the sealant to dry before using the car. Few pics for info

traco

vectra wrote: »

Roll of Kitchen paper in the boot and a bottle of plain water
Place folded tissue on Crap. Soak with some water,
Let it there for a minute or so. Gently wipe crap away. Never fails to work for me on a waxed/sealed car.

Exactly, use this method to clean the dried flies from the helmet visor after a spin on the bike, works perfect and never a scratch. The key is in letting it soak.

clubberlang12

Ordered stuff off Curran at about 1 pm yesterday. Stuff arrived this morning. Brilliant service

shietpilot

Picked some stuff up from detailing shed:



Thanks to Yb for diagnosing the issue where I would use 1 litre of snowfoam per wash :D:D

vectra

shietpilot wrote: »

Picked some stuff up from detailing shed:



Thanks to Yb for diagnosing the issue where I would use 1 litre of snowfoam per wash :D:D

Get proffessional detailing products for yuor pride and joyn
Then go and dump them on the roof to take a photo of them..!! :eek:

shietpilot

vectra wrote: »

Get proffessional detailing products for yuor pride and joyn
Then go and dump them on the roof to take a photo of them..!! :eek:

I wouldn't dump them on my roof, they are on a non-painted grey spoiler, it was designed to hold kebabs and detailing products!!! :rolleyes:

YbFocus

vectra wrote: »

Get proffessional detailing products for yuor pride and joyn
Then go and dump them on the roof to take a photo of them..!! :eek:

Don't worry it wasn't his car, it was Currans

Ron Burgundy II

It seems he put them on a plastic spoiler.

Hal1

I finally got round to using the IronX snow soap as a snow foam (undiluted) over the weekend. I was impressed with the lather of thick suds from such a small amount of the stuff I added to the bottle (a cap full). The next washing day I will test out it's iron removing capabilities.

clubberlang12

Forgive me if this has been done already or to be found stickied somewhere here. Was thinking that with all the different products for each area of detailing that maybe we could do up something where members can insert their go-to or favourite product for each different process. Eg wheel/alloy cleaning, shampoo's, polishes, waxes, etc. Where we stick to a template and just add in the product and maybe a line about it. Again apologies if already done but very easy for opinions/views on products to get lost in the threads here.

MetzgerMeister

clubberlang12 wrote: »

Forgive me if this has been done already or to be found stickied somewhere here. Was thinking that with all the different products for each area of detailing that maybe we could do up something where members can insert their go-to or favourite product for each different process. Eg wheel/alloy cleaning, shampoo's, polishes, waxes, etc. Where we stick to a template and just add in the product and maybe a line about it. Again apologies if already done but very easy for opinions/views on products to get lost in the threads here.

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057626894

clubberlang12

Yeah that's more or less what i meant. Great to see how more experienced members go through a process too. I'd love to see which products people prefer to use for each process.