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toastedpickles Saab 9-5 2.3t SE build
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If you want I'd contact him, and find out a bit more, and maybe get him to put it aside for you. Have a look at his somewhat rambling post in the for sale section! all I know about him is I posted on UK Saabs looking for dash bulbs for my 9-3 and he sent me them over for nothing!
Would you mind? Money is gone seriously tight though, don't even know how i'll get money for insurance this month haha, but if you want to have a chat with him by all means do
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Todays fun and frolics - the map light!
Tools needed
Small screwdriver, smaller the better
T20 hex
Pry off the main light to access the screw
Take out the screw and the whole piece comes away, You'l see your mircophone which is the black guy and your cabin temp sensor which i'm replacing soon which is the white guy
Turn the map light housing anti clockwise to remove it, needs a bit of persuasion, at least mine did (purple trousers ftw :pac:)
Change the bulb to led, do a test and refit the whole thing Car is completely led'd inside now 
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A guy on saabcentral summed up the 9-5 very well, these fcuking things aren't meant to be worked on by humans, they're meant for machines
Little things that make a big problem, one of these is the oil pressure switch, getting a smell of something burning while stopped? The problem lies within this switch, they're a common problem on these cars, oil leaks from them onto the exhaust, and burns off creating a nasty smell
This job isn't for the faint hearted, or people with large hands, a lot of hand yoga and contorting is needed
To even get to the switch the starter motor has to come out, I'll admit it took me two attempts at this to try make sense of it, the first one was stopped by rain and me being impatient, second got it done, there's feck all room to work in so you need to mess about getting the nuts unscrewed, this took probably the longest of it all, there's a 10mm/13mm on the starter and an 18mm nut and bolt holding it in place
What you will need for this job
Patience and lots of it
10/13/16/18mm sockets
22mm O2 sensor removal socket
24mm Deep socket
So pictures!
Start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, then this bolt, which is the last nut on the gearbox bell housing, long enough!
This is the easy part done :pac:
After this I went about all ways trying to get access to the starter. From reading on saab forums they were saying the only way to get to it is from the bottom up, and getting it from the top was next to impossible, but you need to disconnect the exhaust so i jacked up the car and tried that way, i was met by an exhaust to my face, and a lovely big axle
Heres the starter motor, there's a wiring loom with the 13mm nut which is cable tied to the starter, cut this off, the 10mm ground wire is behind this the other retaining nut is to the left which you can't see either, a lot of feeling around is needed for this job, once you know where to go then start
After this it started raining rather heavily so not really knowing where to go next i put it back together for another day, which was today
I done everything from the top as i found it to be miles easier than going from the bottom. So with a bit of swearing i got the starter motor out
Here's the old switch, which is a 24mm, the new one will be 22mm, if the one on it is 22 already you're replacing a replacement
Get your 22mm o2 socket and fit the new switch, this was handy as it got die to the socket having a gap for the wire to fit though, tighten this up and reconnect it
One more shot of the starter
Stick this back in, bolt the ground and loom back in and bolt it back up, reconnect the battery too
Unlike someone......:rolleyes: Start the car and call it a job well done 0 -
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As this is B2X5 engine, do not ignore the oil pressure warning! When the sump drop was done did you check the oil relief valve piston? It's easily accessible from bottom of timing cover (18mm socked needed if I remember correctly) and the piston should move freely (preferably fall down with the cover plug).
I would get the oil pressure checked. Did you replace the three o-rings while the sump/strainer were out. Was the correct red Loctite aneaerobic glue used during assembly? Total air tightness is needed for correct operation of oil pickup. If the engine was really sludged the strainer could also be blocked again.
I done all of that had the engine checked twice since, its all good, the only reason the light was showing is because I contaminated the switch when i changed it, si it was shorting out, just to be on the safe side though im going to invest in a pressure gauge, checked it also with the torque app, pressures fine! 0 -
Picked this up today
A high flow turbo delivery pipe, I've always wanted one, and i picked this up for just over 100 quid, these usually go for 350, should give a bit more grunt to the throttle and plus it looks nice :pac:
Gona fit it later hopefully and test it out0 -
Pictures of said delivery pipe fitted
The car drives a bit better now, as if it can breathe again, revs are more solid, and not lumpy or restricted, and there's a nice note from it as well, also threw in the silicone hose to the intercooler because well. i had to :pac:
I'll throw up more tomorrow
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So i got around to trying out some of this, one problem though, most of my vacuum lines are 3,4 or 5mm internal this is 6
but I've more coming on the way in the right sizes 
Because i heard a hissing noise coming from somewhere it shouldn't which was the result of this
The next problem was the vacuum piece was too small on the pipe, but perfect on the other side, so a little ingenuity.....
Sits nicely on it now hasn't blown off yet, even after a rather spirited trip on the motorway I'll leave it that way until I can find a way to get it right
And one more for the road
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toyotaavensis wrote: »is that the sporty turbo?
Exactly the one! Just need an ecu and all the associated parts and we're in bidness then 0 -
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toyotaavensis wrote: »Not a big surprise that she is in **** after all the sludge.
You should be able to get your one reconditioned or get a reconditioned one. There are lots of companies doing them like these lads
http://www.ivorsearle.co.uk/enquiries.htm
A brand new turbo would cost a bundle
New turbo is about 4/500 quid, but it's a new turbo
A book is on its way all about how to rebuild these specific turbos 0 -
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toyotaavensis wrote: »With the clutch, turbo, cleaning out the sump, maybe it might have been handier to take the engine out. Is she your daily use car? If so then never mind.
Tis yeah if it wasn't the whole thing would've been done in one go 0 -
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toyotaavensis wrote: »If she is your main car then taking out the engine is not a good idea. By the way the inside of the 900 looks spotless. For an "old" car there is a lot of life left in her yet.
Thank you trying to put my best into it
But it's only slipping ever so slightly, so i might get an aero clutch kit, straight swap, good times, wait for the inevitable and do it then
Just bought a front subframe polybush kit for it too :pac:0 -
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toastedpickles wrote: »Thank you trying to put my best into it
But it's only slipping ever so slightly, so i might get an aero clutch kit, straight swap, good times, wait for the inevitable and do it then
Just bought a front subframe polybush kit for it too :pac:
Both cars are looking very well and changing the clutch once it is done you wont have to worry about it for a long time to come. Didnt know the aero had a different clutch with the extra power it makes sense it would have a different clutch.
Poly bushes will be nice. She will be better than the day she came out of the factory when your finished.0
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