burning oil

tfromkerry

Hi do the oil have to heat the water as well , as i have my water here boiling all the times seems a waste to be honest . Can i do something to stop my oil heating up the water ??

Wearb

tfromkerry wrote: »

Hi do the oil have to heat the water as well , as i have my water here boiling all the times seems a waste to be honest . Can i do something to stop my oil heating up the water ??

What is heating your water to that level?

Billy Bunting

Make and Model.

scudo2

tfromkerry wrote: »

Hi do the oil have to heat the water as well , as i have my water here boiling all the times seems a waste to be honest . Can i do something to stop my oil heating up the water ??

Thermostat controlling motorized shut off valve on cylinder would do the job. Or a basic hand operated valve. But you would be better off getting a plumber to have a look as a few important factors have to be taken into account that we can't 100% advise over text without seeing it.
But shouldn't be a major problem.

tfromkerry

scudo2 wrote: »

Thermostat controlling motorized shut off valve on cylinder would do the job. Or a basic hand operated valve. But you would be better off getting a plumber to have a look as a few important factors have to be taken into account that we can't 100% advise over text without seeing it.
But shouldn't be a major problem.

When you say a valve , there is a red turn valve on the left side of tank . Should i turn that to off

tfromkerry

Billy Bunting wrote: »

Make and Model.

Not sure really , but the boiler outside is a firebird

tfromkerry

Wearb wrote: »

What is heating your water to that level?

Not sure why water is heating up , i have no switch or anything so it just heats up when oil is on and i an sure that must be using more oil than is needed just to heat my rads

Billy Bunting

tfromkerry wrote: »

Not sure really , but the boiler outside is a firebird

Check thermostat setting at Firebird boiler.

tfromkerry

Billy Bunting wrote: »

Check thermostat setting at Firebird boiler.

Its up to the highest setting , but i dont think my rads are as hot as they should be . I have on full blast and i feel house is not as hot as should be . Would heating the water be taking from the rads . And when i tried to bleed the rads some water came out is this normal

scudo2

tfromkerry wrote: »

Not sure why water is heating up , i have no switch or anything so it just heats up when oil is on and i an sure that must be using more oil than is needed just to heat my rads

A professional service using a flue gas combustion equipment, similar to what's used on a car exhaust and opinion can save a fortune.
Without the proper equipment and experience its a waste of money + fuel.

Wearb

tfromkerry wrote: »

Not sure why water is heating up , i have no switch or anything so it just heats up when oil is on and i an sure that must be using more oil than is needed just to heat my rads

I thought you maybe had a stove or something else beside the oil heating it.
Are you sure its literally boiling, or do you just mean really hot?

tfromkerry

Wearb wrote: »

I thought you maybe had a stove or something else beside the oil heating it.
Are you sure its literally boiling, or do you just mean really hot?

No its not boiling as in boiling , but very hot water all the time oil is on . And i dont really need very hot water all the time really . There is a red valve on the side of my tank in hot press if i closed this would this do the trick ??

Billy Bunting

tfromkerry wrote: »

Its up to the highest setting , but i dont think my rads are as hot as they should be . I have on full blast and i feel house is not as hot as should be . Would heating the water be taking from the rads . And when i tried to bleed the rads some water came out is this normal

The red valve on the cylinder sounds like a balancing valve, if open to far it will rob heat from rads.
You will still require to lower the stat temperature at the Firebird.

A few pics of your cylinder would help further.

shane0007

If the boiler stat is turned to max, it will over heat the water in the cylinder. Turn the boiler stat to 70C.
The balancing valve at the cylinder (one with the red wheel to adjust) should be closed & opened back approx one full turn.
Try this & see if you see an improvement.
If you do not require hot water, then you could close this valve to stop the hot water heating from the boiler but beware if you have zone valves on the heating & one fails whilst boiler is firing you could damage the pump or worse, the boiler. An auto bypass should be fitted for safety.

tfromkerry

Billy Bunting wrote: »

The red valve on the cylinder sounds like abalancing valve, if opento far it will rob heat from rads.

A few pics of your cylinder would help further.

No prob will post some in 5 mins so

scudo2

tfromkerry wrote: »

When you say a valve , there is a red turn valve on the left side of tank . Should i turn that to off

Friendly plumber would tell you.

It could result with heating pitching into tank in the attic which could eventually damage/ rust systom if not inspected.

tfromkerry

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The stat on boiler is set to 60 is it right or should it be higher , and the valve on left side should i do something with this ??

shane0007

tfromkerry wrote: »

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The stat on boiler is set to 60 is it right or should it be higher , and the valve on left side should i do something with this ??

Are you calling the cylinder stat the boiler stat?
Also is that cylinder stat already wired to a motorised valve?

Billy Bunting

at times i dispair at the confusion.

tfromkerry

shane0007 wrote: »

Are you calling the cylinder stat the boiler stat?
Also is that cylinder stat already wired to a motorised valve?

The Cylinder stat is what i meant its on 60 , its the thing in the photo which is onto the cylinder . And i dont know about been wired to any thing ,other than it has a wire wire coming from it going into cylinder .

So still asking , will i turn the red valve down bottom left of cllinder , and what should the stat on the cylinder be set at eg 60 , 70 , 80

And sorry for the confussion:D

shane0007

That stat should be set to 60C. If it is working, the hot water should not reach more than 65C which you wouldn't stand under tbh. If you go below 55C, you have a risk of legionnaires.
Check the "boiler" stat setting at the boiler see what that is set to.
How many zones are on your timeclock?

tfromkerry

shane0007 wrote: »

That stat should be set to 60C. If it is working, the hot water should not reach more than 65C which you wouldn't stand under tbh. If you go below 55C, you have a risk of legionnaires.
Check the "boiler" stat setting at the boiler see what that is set to.
How many zones are on your timeclock?

Ok explain the legionnaires thing a bit more , if the water drops below 55c i could get it how ??? .

The stat is set to 60 so that ok , the boiler stat is set to max it has no numbers on it on lines which it is at the highest point

shane0007

tfromkerry wrote: »

Ok explain the legionnaires thing a bit more , if the water drops below 55c i could get it how ??? .

The stat is set to 60 so that ok , the boiler stat is set to max it has no numbers on it on lines which it is at the highest point

It sounds like you have a high efficiency boiler & if so turn the stat to just over halfway. Their temp range is narrower than a SE boiler to ensure it stays in condensing mode so limiting homeowner tampering.

I would also suspect you have had a heating controls upgrade with time & temperature control over each zone, but this is just a guess.

Legionnaires is a whole other thread but basically it is a air borne disease that survives & multiplies in damp moist conditions with temps of 30 - 55C. So if you store your hot water within this range, your showers will atomise the water which you breathe in the molecules of contaminated water & the symptoms/results are akin to asbestos.

A lot of cases each year that do not make the headlines. Hospitals in Belfast was the last publicised case last year.

tfromkerry

shane0007 wrote: »

It sounds like you have a high efficiency boiler & if so turn the stat to just over halfway. Their temp range is narrower than a SE boiler to ensure it stays in condensing mode so limiting homeowner tampering.

I would also suspect you have had a heating controls upgrade with time & temperature control over each zone, but this is just a guess.

Legionnaires is a whole other thread but basically it is a air borne disease that survives & multiplies in damp moist conditions with temps of 30 - 55C. So if you store your hot water within this range, your showers will atomise the water which you breathe in the molecules of contaminated water & the symptoms/results are akin to asbestos.

A lot of cases each year that do not make the headlines. Hospitals in Belfast was the last publicised case last year.

I dont think so as my clock on wall is just the basic model with consent on / timer / and off option,s . And again i will ask can i do something to stop water from heating up when i turn on oil , if so what ??

shane0007

tfromkerry wrote: »

I dont think so as my clock on wall is just the basic model with consent on / timer / and off option,s . And again i will ask can i do something to stop water from heating up when i turn on oil , if so what ??

Yes you could turn off the coil but we don't have the whole picture. If that cylinder stat is wired to a motorised valve, you could just turn down the stat to zero.
More info & more accurate info would equal more advice, otherwise as Scudo says, call in a plumber to evaluate your system.

The stat is wired to something & most likely a MV but we cannot see from your pics.

Wearb

tfromkerry wrote: »

I dont think so as my clock on wall is just the basic model with consent on / timer / and off option,s . And again i will ask can i do something to stop water from heating up when i turn on oil , if so what ??

The answer to that question is yes. But very likely you will need a visit by a plumber to work out why it is behaving as it is. It should be a simple job, but you never know until you see it.

jimmy180sx

From what i can make out from the photo of the red valve is that this is either a cold feed to the cylinder or hot feed to the basins/sinks/bath. Isolating this will mean you have no water to these appliances. You need to identify two pipes (flow & return) from the boiler to the heating coil on the side of the cylinder. Check to see whether either pipes has a control valve (usually white casing) with a little light indicator or isolarion valve. As said previously, if valve is fitted. Close fully, (turn clockwise), until hand tight, the reopen one full turn. Many houses were plumbed without separate zone for dhw, & heating, which may be in your case

Wearb

tfromkerry wrote: »

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The stat on boiler is set to 60 is it right or should it be higher , and the valve on left side should i do something with this ??

Is that cylinder stat cut in through the insulation. On my phone it looks to be sitting on top of it.

tfromkerry

shane0007 wrote: »

Yes you could turn off the coil but we don't have the whole picture. If that cylinder stat is wired to a motorised valve, you could just turn down the stat to zero.
More info & more accurate info would equal more advice, otherwise as Scudo says, call in a plumber to evaluate your system.

The stat is wired to something & most likely a MV but we cannot see from your pics.

Yes the stat which is set at 60c on the tank is wired to a dial on my wall which is set to 30c do this sound right i will post pick in a min

tfromkerry

Wearb wrote: »

Is that cylinder stat cut in through the insulation. On my phone it looks to be sitting on top of it.

Yes its cut through the blue insulation

tfromkerry

shane0007 wrote: »

Yes you could turn off the coil but we don't have the whole picture. If that cylinder stat is wired to a motorised valve, you could just turn down the stat to zero.
More info & more accurate info would equal more advice, otherwise as Scudo says, call in a plumber to evaluate your system.

The stat is wired to something & most likely a MV but we cannot see from your pics.

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The stat on the tank photo (3) is wired to dial on wall photo (1)

Billy Bunting

You have a room thermostat and a cylinder stat, you must have motorised valve/s, look a little harder about the hot press, more pics may help.

tfromkerry

Billy Bunting wrote: »

You have a room thermostat and a cylinder stat, you must have motorised valve/s, look a little harder about the hot press, more pics may help.

ok i have 2 box type things onto pipes in utility room downstairs , and some thing round on top on tank where element goes . photos to follow

tfromkerry

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4 of the photos are down in my utility

Egass13

tfromkerry wrote: »

ok i have 2 box type things onto pipes in utility room downstairs

You have three "box type things " in your utility , these are the motorised valves the lads are talking about , one of them is connected to your cylinder stat . Turning the stat down to minimum should in turn close the valve and prevent you heating hot water. If the hot water is getting hotter than what you have set it for then there's a chance the actuator is banjo'd and not closing when the pre set temp is reached so it's continually being heated when boiler is on , also check balancing valve is set properly as advised previously. Have your service engineer check the controls when your having your annual service

tfromkerry

Egass13 wrote: »

tfromkerry wrote: »

ok i have 2 box type things onto pipes in utility room downstairs

You have three "box type things " in your utility , these are the motorised valves the lads are talking about , one of them is connected to your cylinder stat . Turning the stat down to minimum should in turn close the valve and prevent you heating hot water. If the hot water is getting hotter than what you have set it for then there's a chance the actuator is banjo'd and not closing when the pre set temp is reached so it's continually being heated when boiler is on , also check balancing valve is set properly as advised previously. Have your service engineer check the controls when your having your annual service

Ok so what your saying is turn the stat which is set into the cylinder down to minimum and that will do the trick

shane0007

Yup

tfromkerry

shane0007 wrote: »

Yup

Perfect so i will turn down the stat on cylinder from 60c to 0c and this will do the trick

What about the legionnaires thing your were on about last night

Actually the minimum is 20c

shane0007

If you are storing the water for prolonged periods at a given temperature of below 28C, legionnaires cannot survive.

Do you not have any hot water demand at all?

Billy Bunting

.........

shane0007

Billy Bunting wrote: »

If its working. You may still require adjustment of the balancing valve to get more heat to the rads.

How so? There will be no flow through the coil if the dhw MV is off, therefore taking nothing from the heating. The balancing valve would only come into play if dhw was on at the same time as the heating.

Billy Bunting

yes your correct, brain freeze.

tfromkerry

shane0007 wrote: »

If you are storing the water for prolonged periods at a given temperature of below 28C, legionnaires cannot survive.

Do you not have any hot water demand at all?

Yes i would be only certain times of the day , also i have an electric shower .It just seemed a waste to be heating up water i was not using .And sure cant i turn it up again to 60c if required

So in summary . I turn down the stat to min which is 20c and i need do nothing else . And rads will get hotter , water get colder and happy days yea ??:D

dathi

in picture 8 in the utility room what is the reading on the pressure gauge as it is too fuzzy to make out

Egass13

tfromkerry wrote: »

Egass13 wrote: »

Ok so what your saying is turn the stat which is set into the cylinder down to minimum and that will do the trick

Yes. Stat off = valve off= no hot water . And that's probably as far as I can dumb it down so I hope it will suffice.

tfromkerry

Egass13 wrote: »

tfromkerry wrote: »

Yes. Stat off = valve off= no hot water . And that's probably as far as I can dumb it down so I hope it will suffice.

Perfect duming down Egass

tfromkerry

dathi wrote: »

in picture 8 in the utility room what is the reading on the pressure gauge as it is too fuzzy to make out

Its reading 5 psi out of a max 60 psi . this is low and prob not right :eek:

Wearb

tfromkerry wrote: »

Its reading 5 psi out of a max 60 psi . this is low and prob not right :eek:

OK come clean with us...... "square things, round things etc." you have being having fun haven't you?? :P

tfromkerry

Wearb wrote: »

OK come clean with us...... "square things, round things etc." you have being having fun haven't you?? :P

How do you mean , i just read the circle gauge on pipe and its down to 5 psi .What should it be at

Billy Bunting

Should be around 15 / 20psi, but i can't for the life of me be bothered looking back at the pics to find your filling loop.....

tfromkerry

Billy Bunting wrote: »

Should be around 15 / 20psi, but i can't for the life of me be bothered looking back at the pics to find your filling loop.....

I will increase it so to 17 or so and what do you mean my filling loop