Today I did some detailing...

MetzgerMeister

Slattsy wrote: »

Is there a product that will remove bugs but not strip lsp away then?

A quick detailer like OAC Perfection.

Slattsy

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

A quick detailer like OAC Perfection.

Any qd?

IK09

Full exterior detail at the weekend. 18hrs. Got some "new" products, new to me anyway. Cotton Candy, Bilt Hamber fallout remover, OAC Tar Cleanse, Bilt Hamber Clay, Chemical Guys Prop Polish 3n (it a one step so was curious). Got a call on thursday morning for a polish and seal over the weekend. Needed product fast, Dave aka Curran at Detailingshed had it out to me Friday morning. Great service, he knew I needed it fast and delivered, cheers man.

Products


I had never used OAC Snowfoam before, and was looking forward to using it but my powerwasher died, and my lance was useless, had to take out the old powerwasher and fill up the detergent tank. Il give a proper opinion on it when i get proper use from it.

Heres the short version.
Before


After


Anyway. 7.30am start. Since it going to be a big job, i used a TFR to strip the car. I forgot how big E Class's are, they are mammoths. TFR, Snowfoam, Wash, Powerhose.



Got a proper look at the paint once the major surface dirt was removed.

Some minor scratches


Some imperfections etc. Suncream, hand lotion...




De-tarred using OAC Tar Cleanse. Good Stuff, goes milky white to let you know its still on the car when it comes in contact with water. There are cheaper alternatives but its a very good product.

Onto the Bilt Hamber Korrosol. To take out some contaminants. I expected more reaction here. This is a 10 year old car that had never been clayed. I left to dwell for 20 mins. Not the products fault, my expectations were that the car would be purple after a quick spray. To be sure, and because it was a "new" product, I re applied after the initial use. With very little reaction, fair enough.







After I clayed the car using Bilt Hamber Clay, it had barely any work to do after the Bilt Hamber Korrosol, although the windows were hard work for some reason. No pics of this. Claying is claying. Polished using a DAS-6 and orange chemical guys hexlogic 5.5" pad and Chemical Guys Pro Polish 3n. Sealed with AG Extra Gloss Protection. I hand polish my own car using AG SRP and I noticed that the EGP didnt bond well with another manufactures products. It was quite easy to wipe off and resulted in 4 thin layers being required. If you use AG SRP and AG EGP, your arms will be falling off wiping out the EGP. Other products used, wonder wheels for the alloys, Meguires Endurance for the tyres, Rain X to seal the windows.

And here is the result.





After, I had a de-tar, il put up some pics later.

IK09

lol, how do i resize pics?

Hatfry

That was fast for a job like that!

Curran

Great work...was the owner happy??

Some fallout removers are about getting the job done, rather than being about the "show". Others turn purple on contact and bleed nicely but do little removal....the results are noticed when claying and as you say, it was much easier...it done the job so!!

EGP is a pig to remove if its not put on very thinly. Its easier to apply through a spray head. Spritz a bit onto tje panel and spread it.
Straight from the bottle it just soaks the applicator and its hard to apply thinly after that.

IK09

Ya, was finished alot sooner than I expected, but the paint on the passenger side of the car was in fairly good nick, especially for a 10 y.o. With the combination of the fallout remover, reduced claying time(30mins approx) and the Chemical guys Pro Polish 3n, it drastically reduced the workload. Had scheduled 24hours for it. Hes ordered a new rear bumper aswell so didnt need to touch the one on the car. Didnt touch the interior either.

Ya the owner was very impressed. He had said that he wanted his car to shine like my car but that his expectations were well outdone, he said it was like picking it up from the dealer the day he bought it, which made my head swell a bit.

I never thought of spraying the EGP, il defo try it next time.

Curran

Following on from this post, which was almost 5 weeks ago, in which I applied Perfection to one half of the bonnet.

This is a quick video I done of the water reacting on the bonnet after its first snowfoam and rinse down - not exactly amazing, but easy to see what side is protected!


Quick Video

Mc Love

That's still pretty good

Curran

Its not bad for spritz on, buff in, walk away!

Snowfoamed, washed, dried and applied a quick coat of it yesterday....done about 20 miles in it today in the pissings of rain, down a dirty auld back road and a few miles on the motorway....as she its outside right now!

Roof



Bonnet and Windscreen

Pops_20

Clayed the car yesterday and now applying a coat of Bilt-Hamber auto-balm, but I've noticed some patches around the car where there is a kind of rough residue. It looks like I didn't lubricate enough when claying and it marred? Anyone know how to get it off??

Curran

A light hand polish should remove those marks from the clay!

Slattsy

Curran, maybe you can help with this.
Bilt Hamber, whats the difference between finis-wax and auto blam?

Also, where do you rate them amongst the many polishes and waxes out there?

Curran

Slattsy wrote: »

Curran, maybe you can help with this.
Bilt Hamber, whats the difference between finis-wax and auto blam?

Also, where do you rate them amongst the many polishes and waxes out there?

First thing I should address is the "Polish & Waxes"....you know the difference?
Polish is not protection...you would never polish a car and leave it at that, as it will just wash out!
This is often the problem when you hear people saying they polished their car with AG SRP and it looked great initially but crap after a few days!
Perhaps you meant in comparison to other waxes and sealants, out there?


The difference between Bilt Hamber Finis-Wax and Auto Balm....
Auto Balm is a unique product that not only protects your paintwork but it's main attribute is to fill swirls. It also contains corrosion inhibitors to prevent rust spreading in areas such as stone chips. Durability of about 4 weeks, but its the price to pay for the hiding properties. Bilt Hamber say that there isnt really another product that can be applied on top of it to extend this.

Finis-Wax is a paste wax (in the traditional sense) but they've modified it and they say its unmatched for durabilty and gloss, when compared to other paste waxes. It gives great protection and the beading is very nice - one of my favourite waxes on Silver or Dark Greys....but will look brilliant on any colours provided it's well prepared.

In comparison to other products; leaving the higher end nano products aside....
Auto Balm has its market - easy use and makes bad paintwork appear much better in one quick easy step - but durability is the best!
Finis Wax is excellent IMO; a great all rounder!

Slattsy

Cheers. I do indeed. Sorry I meant the brand and not those 2 products specifically.

My car is quite swirly, but not in an awful bad way truth be told.

What would you layer under the finis wax?

Curran

Bilt Hamber the brand? They make excellent products....products that work!! They wouldnt release anything that is half arsed!

What could be layered under Finis-Wax?
To be honest, I wouldnt put anything under it.
If you prepare the car well; wash, de-tar, de-iron, clay, wash and dry...and your paintwork isnt in too bad a condition, just apply it straight on the surface...it doesnt need anything else - it will look great!
Sure some swirls will be visible, but who is going to be up that close inspecting your paintwork??

Slattsy

Good man.

Finis wax beats the auto balm then?

Curran

Hands down, if your paintwork is in good nick!

The_Pretender

Has anyone any experience of the Kestrel Power Plus DA-6?

http://www.cleancar.ie/kestrel-das-6-power-plus-dual-action-polisher.html

I was considering getting the standard Kestrel DA-6 that a lot of you guys have, but since I'll be using it on 3/4 cars I figure it'll be worth getting as good as machine as I can within reason. With the standard one being 500W and the Power Plus being 850W will that extra power do much more?

Curran

Yeah, the Pro is a far superior machine and worth the extra money if you are going to be using it on a few cars.

vectra

Yes.
Well worth it
I have had both and the Plus is miles better.
Also buy a set of MF pads for it.

The_Pretender

Thanks guys, that's exactly what I wanted to hear

Gavman84

I did this
Before[IMG][/img]
After 2BM Detat,Clay SRP and WaX. I am bet took most of the day bloody big car to clean you forget sometimes!
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randy hickey

I agree with you Gavman84 - pictures of Accords are always worth posting twice!


Edit: There can't be many 09 reg Generation 7 Accords around?

Gavman84

Haha don't know why it did that removed 2nd!
No don't think are too many have seen a few around tho saw another type s same year colour for sale during week and all!

Poor 'ol Rav has been neglected while I was without a pressure washer and SnowFoam lance.

So I decided to give up my Snowfoam conquest and not bother with it anymore. Rav hadn't seen a bit of clean water in about 6 weeks. Here's a before and after:






(admittedly, my before photo is a blatant lie of sorts, as thats not actually dirt on it, it's just the iron cleanse turning colour after I sprayed a fair bit of it all over the car).

However, the car actually was really filthy. Annoyingly so. I'm glad to have given it the wash it desperately needed.

Unfortunately, since I last cleaned it, I've found at least 2 noticeable dents where people opened their doors into my car. Sickens the teeth of me, especially considering I actually do make an effort to park away from people!! Argh!

You can see one on the reflection of the building here, on the back door, about halfway in:





And as ever, I'm still loving AG's Instant Tyre Dressing (even though there's nothing instant about it). Deep glossy black wheels pull the whole look of a car together in my opinion.





I didn't give it a very thorough cleaning though. Just a couple of rinses, 2bm, dry and then instead of a proper wax/polish, I just used AG's quick detailer. But I plan to give it a more thorough going over during the week.

Noccy_Mondy

A quick run of a rattle can on that tow bar would finish it off

Taking it off altogether would probably be even more sensible.

(but I use it as my rear parking sensor when I'm close to walls and such! :P )

Ardennes1944

Whats best to get rid of a lot of tree sap from paint? And what is the best for white paint for a deep shine, will collinite 476 do the job?

Curran

Tree sap is a bit of a pain...sometimes hot water will help lift it if there isnt too much, but if its bad, a claying will be needed.

You wont really get a deep shine from white in the way you would from black, blue or red, for example. Lighter colours are generally better suited to sealants. Of course Collinite 476 will do the job, anything will if the prep is good!