Browning a-bolt

ALAN.N

Licence finally arrived and i,me off to collect my new rifle tomorrow, its a browning a-bolt in .223, this is my first centerfire rifle so just a few questions, how often would you need to clean it ? would it need to be cleaned before use from out of the box ? any tips on zeroing. I would be grateful for any info on this.

yubabill1

Haven't time to go through all you ask, but I cleaned the factory test firing residue from mine at the time, not strictly necessary.

VERY IMPORTANT imho that you break-in the barrel. Google it for details. or guys here will give their experiences.

I clean every time I use mine. Need to de-carb, de-copper after every 75 shots or so, dealer has cleaning solutions.

Gotta go.

fathersymes

I like the 3 shot zero method, here goes.

1. First bore sight your rifle
2. Fire a shot at the bull
3. Make sure you rifle is very steady, then adjust so your reticle is on the hole from the shot

yubabill1

wrt zero, many people like to shoot 1" or 1.5" high at 100yds. This means you can still hit a rabbit in the vitals without compensating at that distance, but also means you will have a zero at 150 or 180yds depending on the ammo you use.
55gr and lower should suit your A bolt. Try a few brands/weights and see what it shoots best with.

Cass

ALAN.N wrote: »

......... how often would you need to clean it ?

Every 50 rounds or 6-8 weeks of use. Whichever comes first.

........... would it need to be cleaned before use from out of the box ?

I always strip the rifle down (drop action/barrel out of stock, etc) but no need to go that far.clean before firing, and work on the break in with a spotless clean barrel. Also the outside of the barrel/action may have a little "residue" on it form the factory. So give the outside a good cleaning too.

any tips on zeroing.

Zero for 100 yards. Then move out to 200 yards without adjusting the zero. Find how low the sho impacts at 200 yards with 100 yard zero on it. Then set your final zero at whatever distance suits. So if your shot is 1.5 inches low you can set it for 0.75 inches low, and have a "point blank" zero on the gun. Or zero if for 200 yards, and aim low for anything closer. It really does depend on the distance you intend to shoot. However it's only a zero, and can be changed as per your needs.

On how to zero try this:

Cass wrote:

Turn the clicks on the scope (elevation) down to the lowest setting. Now turn the clicks on your windage adjustment all the way left (or right). Now turn it in the other direction while keeping count of the mintes/clicks. If its (for talks sake) 50 moa turn it back 25. Now your windage is centralised. Place the rifle in a clamp and check its level. When you peer down the barrel make sure the circle made by the muzzle is central in the circle made by the breach.



Move the rifle (not your head) until the target (at least 2ft x 1.5ft with concentric circles)



can be seen . Now keep the target in view through the barrel while trying to keep both "circles" central. Once you think you have the target in the barrel and all aspects centralised and secured, reclamp the rifle again making sure nothing moves. Now look through the scope and see where your crosshairs are in relation to the target. Turn up your elevation turret until you are approx. level with where you have sighted the barrel. Go between the barrel sight and scope and try to narrow down the difference in "point of impact". Adjust elevation and windage as appropriate.

Bolt in and load a round. Steady yourself and fire. Check your point of impact. Adjust your scope the necessary clicks to compesate for wind drift and high or low impact. Your scope is probably .25" click value at 100yds so don't forget you'll have half that movement at 50yds. So if you are 2" out it will take 16 clicks to move the 2" rather than the 8 clicks at 100yds. Don't forget that this is scope movement, as in straight line of sight. The trajectory of the bullet being used will determine whether the full amount of clicks is needed or if more are. Anyway load a second round after adjusting the scope and fire. You should be very close if not in the bull. Adjust scope again if necessary. Load and fire a third round. this one should be in the bull (weather and shooter permitting).

Make note of the turret markings and record them as your 50 yd zero. Now move to 100yds. Fresh target. Without adjusting the scope fire at the 100yd target. Take note of the bullet drop and adjust your scope accordingly to compensate. Fire another 2 or 3 rounds to establish a group. When you are happy with your group, record the turret markings and if possible zero the turrets and keep as your 100 yd zero. You can then move to 200 and 300 if you want. Fire and adjust the scope. Record the bullet drop and click value to compensate ans voila you have your drop chart started.

yubabill1 wrote: »

VERY IMPORTANT imho that you break-in the barrel. Google it for details. or guys here will give their experiences.

My own break in process (and everyone's will differ) is i usually start with 1 shot and clean. Repeat for 10 rounds. 2 shots and clean for 10 (5x2), 3 shots and clean for 15 (5x3), and lastly 5 shots and clean for 15 (3x5). 45 - 50 rounds is more than enough for breaking in any new rifle. Some may take more, but this does most.


I have a Bore Tech 56" cleaning rod, 2 jags, 6 mops, i wire brush (never use), and 2 nylon brushes. Also have a Bore Tech bore guide, a must in my book for cleaning. I use these mainly for the new .308 as she has a 32" barrel and the breach with the bore guide adds 12" so my Parker Hale rods don't reach as i would like (well not without smacking my knuckles of the butt stock when i run the rod forward).

For regular cleaning i usually soak a patch in M-Pro7 bore gel. Run it down the barrel. immediately use a nylon brush and run it up and down a few times to agitate/loosen the fouling. Another soaked patch and run it through the barrel to remove heavy fouling. Then one last (M-Pro7) patch and run it down the barrel ,then leave it to sit for about 3-5 minutes. I then take oiled patches and continuously run wet/oiled patches down the barrel until they run wet and clean. I then run 7-10 dry patches to remove oil, cleaner, everything. Then a patch or two with Meths or someother type spirit to remove any excess. Then a mop and run it up and down a few times to "buff" the bore.

If you find fouling on the patches, just repeat the cleaning process again.

As previously mentioned though, its a personal thing and i've changed the way i clean mine over the years. There is no real "right or wrong" way. I will however say that the patches should be wet and clean. This way you are guaranteed there is no dry or drying fouling still in the barrel.

I then wipe the stock with a clean dry cloth (or ever so slightly oiled then dry), wipe the outside of the barrel and breach with a slightly oiled cloth and wipe down to remove excess. I also use a tooth brush, oil, and cotton buds to clean the chamber and breach on the inside. When storing the rifle from week to week i leave a clean, rolled up cloth in the chamber/breach so when it is sitting on the butt any "missed" oil will run onto the cloth. Thankfully i've yet to take out a cloth with any oil or at least any "excessive" oil on it.

minktrapper

Is that a birds nest in the end of the barrel in the photo.

Cass

Hasn't been cleaned in a while.