CZ 455 trigger

philbk

I just bought a CZ 455 .17hmr. It is a nice rifle but has a lot of trigger creep. Any ideas on the best way to sort this out?

clivej

Do a search for 'YoDave' here and on Google

loveta

Chat "DEV 110" he is after getting some of the yo dave trigger kits he should know the best way of getting one. Hope to get mine this week have a CZ 452 .17 Grand gun for the money but the trigger is not nice on them so i am hoping the kit il sort the problem

Brianmeath

Put a yodave on my 455, different gun to fire. Got it on eBay

philbk

Thanks for the advice

reidy87

I have one on my 455 they really do make a massive difference!!

gearoidol

saw during the week that's sportsden.ie have them in stock

nedcbr6

Brianmeath wrote: »

Put a yodave on my 455, different gun to fire. Got it on eBay

Hi there got a yodave for my 455 .17
Just seeing was it hard to put the trigger in ???
Cheerz

Cass

Not hard at all. You need a small "toffee" hammer, fine punch, towel or other mat to catch and bits, and a bit of patience.

Make sure the gun is unloaded (might seem silly, but necessary to mention). Open the bolt.

1. Remove the trigger guard, and stock from the rifle. If you don't have a torque wrench then put a piece of masking tape on the stock beside the action screws. Mark the screw with a pencil, and onto the masking tape. Undo the screws. When you need to remount the stock you tighten up the screws until the pencil marks align. Not 100% foolproof but a good way to do it. You'll be a worst an inch out at 100 yards.
2. Pull the action/barrel out.
3. Place the action/barrel on the towel/mat.
4. The instructions tell you to grind down the lip of the front trigger pin to remove it. I did not. I used a fine drill bit, punch or nail. When placed in the centre of the pin it will push it out without the need to grind it down meaning you need not use the spare in the kit. You can of course grind it down or drill it out and remove. It;s up to you.
5. Tap the front pin through until it allows the trigger to "separate". no need to remove it completely, however you may if you like.
6. Then simply tap out the rear trigger pin. Do this slowly as the trigger is under pressure from the spring and you don't want parts flying around.
7. Here is the awkward bit. The shims (all 4) and springs (all 4) are not matched to one another so you have to keep trying different formats until you get the on you like. The shims are (from the most engagement to least) Blue, Green, black, Red. The springs are self explanatory. Weakest to strongest is evident by feel and look.
8. Place the shim between the top of the sear and the bottom of the action where the front trigger pin is. You tap the front pin through the shim and give the pin a couple of taps to "flatten out" the end of the pin again.
9. Remove the trigger spring and adjust the screw on the threaded bar on the trigger. This reduces creep and trigger pull weight.
10. I tried a few combinations of these and in the end i put in the second weakest spring and NO shim. The shims coupled with the springs gave either to much engagement and little in trigger lightening, to almost no sear engagement leading to slam fires.
11. Each time you try a combination you must put the trigger back together and then dry fire (use a dummy round or spent cartridge. Please make sure it's a spent one).
12. Keep at this until you get the combination you like.
13. Once you are happy you need to put the trigger back together in the opposite way to how you took it apart. Tap the front pin through the shim (if used) and secure on the opposite side.
14. Place the trigger spring into the recess on the rear, underside, of the action and with a little force align the rear pin holes and tap the rear pin through and secure it.
15. Remount the stock and once again dry fire as the feel of the trigger will be different when the stock is on as opposed to off.
16. Do a bump test. Actually do a couple. Make sure you get no bump fires.
17. Mark your old spring, and place it into the bag with the rest of the kit.

I think that covers all the steps. If i've missed one i'm sure someone will point it out. The fitting is easy and takes about 10 - 15 minutes. The trying part, as said above, is getting the right combination.

clivej

And if you want the best trigger then get a Timney trigger, it makes the difference yet again and fully adjustable.

FISMA

clivej wrote: »

And if you want the best trigger then get a Timney trigger, it makes the difference yet again and fully adjustable.

+1.

First, I would try what Cass said.

A lot of people slag the Remington 700 trigger. However, a lot of people do not have the time and patience to tweak the trigger to its potential. There are many 700 triggers that can be worked to the level of a custom trigger with a bit of time and care.

With that said, I have lot's of Timneys! For me, it is just quicker and easier to drop in a Timney.

Most recently, however, I did go with the stock trigger on my SPS over the Timney. It was that clean of a break and needed slight tweaking, which was easily done without removing the trigger.

Here's the Timney for the 455.

skipking

put the youdave in mine big difference. 3 spring so you choose which amount
of trigger pressure you want. try patrick carley, i think he has them around 20 euro.