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fire front doors

2

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 18 slaney


    hey eco, i got a deville door too at the same price. 250 is enough to pay


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 slaney


    did anyone else have the trouble of the firedoor pushing the damper on the back boiler closed, do i need to take the damper out or what


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    slaney wrote: »
    did anyone else have the trouble of the firedoor pushing the damper on the back boiler closed, do i need to take the damper out or what

    Hi Slaney, I didn't have that problem as mine slides but what I was told if I did have that problem was to trim the baffle plate back which comes with fire door because you need the damper to divert the heat to back boiler, hope this helps. Dee.


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 slaney


    cheers d, will i need an angle grinder to do that, is it the baffle, the black plate that's the problem, would it be no good to take damper out - will i lose heat . raging now


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    slaney wrote: »
    cheers d, will i need an angle grinder to do that, is it the baffle, the black plate that's the problem, would it be no good to take damper out - will i lose heat . raging now

    Hi Slaney, I bought the boru door and it came with a baffle plate and you fitt it on with two nuts, I asked the fella if there was a problem with damper lever what should I do and he said trim it back. The damper moves the heat to your boiler so to me if you removed it your boiler would heat up but not to the same heat, saying that I find I haven't needed to adjust damper at the minute. What door did you buy?


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    Sorry Slaney just seen you bought deville door maybe you could ring them for advice on it but I would think these doors are all much of a muchness.


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    This is my door fitted and working.


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 slaney


    hey d. i bought a de ville, but when i opened the box it has boru on the glass, so since they are both made in the same factory, someone made a mess up. i rang both numbers on they're pages, de ville said take it out, boru didn't ring back yet. so confused, i can't take the battle off my door


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    slaney wrote: »
    hey d. i bought a de ville, but when i opened the box it has boru on the glass, so since they are both made in the same factory, someone made a mess up. i rang both numbers on they're pages, de ville said take it out, boru didn't ring back yet. so confused, i can't take the battle off my door

    If de ville are telling you to take damper out try it and light a fire and see how it compares from what it was before if you ain't happy you might have to cut baffle back abit to allow for the damper worth a try.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 18 slaney


    fitted the door ok, but radiators don't seem to be as warm as they were without the door, should the damper be open or closed now for better heat to raditors


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    slaney wrote: »
    fitted the door ok, but radiators don't seem to be as warm as they were without the door, should the damper be open or closed now for better heat to raditors

    Hi Slaney, glad u got door fitted did you have to cut baffle back, I haven't been using damper as the heat to the rads is as good as before and keeps rads warmer for longer. What I did notice with mine is when damper is open to allow for heat to back boiler the flames don't seem to go to back boiler as much as they did with open fire, but the I'm still getting same heat if not more as the door seems to contain heat in the firebox if that makes any sense. Dee


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 slaney


    i know what ya mean dee, without the door the air from the room pushed the flames to the back boiler, now with the door the flames are in front of the boiler, i was wondering is the heat just goin out the chimney, cos my rads were warmer before. i didn't cut the baffle just adjusted it and it fitted when i messed about with the damper too. i have the damper open fully now and baffle pushed back as far as i can. not sure if its because its colder outside or the coal i'm using but the house used to be warmer. i seem to be using the same amount of coal as before, i'll go back to using the staffords silver bag of coal to see does it make a differenve, cos at the min i'm using cheaper coal, but i used this same cheaper coal b4 the door and the rads were warmer, so maybe it has something to do with the drop in temps outside not sure really, but it is fruastrating cos i thought i was going to get more heat and use less coal, but alas thats not how its going


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 slaney


    is ur baffle going back to the back boiler or is there a gap


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    slaney wrote: »
    is ur baffle going back to the back boiler or is there a gap

    There is bout 2inc gap between baffle plate and damper as I have baffle plate right back towards door, I could move it closer to damper but it seems 2 work ok this way, the draw is good and I can control the fire with air control but if I should have it closer someone tell me. Dee


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    slaney wrote: »
    i know what ya mean dee, without the door the air from the room pushed the flames to the back boiler, now with the door the flames are in front of the boiler, i was wondering is the heat just goin out the chimney, cos my rads were warmer before. i didn't cut the baffle just adjusted it and it fitted when i messed about with the damper too. i have the damper open fully now and baffle pushed back as far as i can. not sure if its because its colder outside or the coal i'm using but the house used to be warmer. i seem to be using the same amount of coal as before, i'll go back to using the staffords silver bag of coal to see does it make a differenve, cos at the min i'm using cheaper coal, but i used this same cheaper coal b4 the door and the rads were warmer, so maybe it has something to do with the drop in temps outside not sure really, but it is fruastrating cos i thought i was going to get more heat and use less coal, but alas thats not how its going

    I use smokeless ovoids what I do is get the fire going then fill it up with ovoids, I let her fire up with both vents open when the flames are up and coal starting to burn well I close top vent 3/4 and bottom one half then a short while after roughly 30mins I close bottom vent 3/4 so it's only open abit and the same as top one I can leave this 12hrs, when I come back to fire I open vents up leave for 15mins them lightly rake it, take out ashpan the remaking coals are red and this is enough to ignite new coals which I gradually build up and I do the same again this way uses to scuttles of coal aday or just less, if anyone has better tips I would love to hear, sorry for long post. Dee


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 360 ✭✭mytime


    I have a non back boiler fire place, some are saying its not safe to fit one of these doors. What's the general consensus?


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 slaney


    i heard the can damage the chimney breast from the heat if ya don't have a boiler


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 jmlfc


    I have a new grant 16'' triple pass boiler recently fitted.

    I light it and when i know it is lit well, with heat in the living room i then open the damper fully to heat all the rads in the house. The pump then kicks in at this stage to heat the rads. (ive the stat set at 50 degrees) Im getting reasonably good heat after 3-4 hours of burning, is this good?

    Also which is the best grate and fire front as the one i have at the moment is curved and there is a gap between the grate and fire front leading to coals falling between and onto the hearth...


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    mytime wrote: »
    I have a non back boiler fire place, some are saying its not safe to fit one of these doors. What's the general consensus?

    I echo slaney's comment but saying that these companies say they can, from what I know the only benefit would be stopping the heat loss in your room going up the chimney but this would be an expensive solution. Dee


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    jmlfc wrote: »
    I have a new grant 16'' triple pass boiler recently fitted.

    I light it and when i know it is lit well, with heat in the living room i then open the damper fully to heat all the rads in the house. The pump then kicks in at this stage to heat the rads. (ive the stat set at 50 degrees) Im getting reasonably good heat after 3-4 hours of burning, is this good?

    Also which is the best grate and fire front as the one i have at the moment is curved and there is a gap between the grate and fire front leading to coals falling between and onto the hearth...

    Hi jm, they do take a while to get to temperature and I personally think they are a good addition to the open fire, regarding fire front you can fit one of these stove doors such as boru, deville or yola there are probably others or you could fit a queenstar all night fire front which keeps the open fire feel but gives you abit of control with the air coming into it from underneath the fire and they come with a grate, I used one of these before I bought boru door and they do work for all night burning but you will use a lot of coal as a lot of air reaching on top of coals where the door lets you control bottom and top air, hope this helps,


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 360 ✭✭mytime


    Thanks for the replies, so would I be better off getting a stove instead then. 6kw stove fitted €650 fitted or fire front door €300 fitted?


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    mytime wrote: »
    Thanks for the replies, so would I be better off getting a stove instead then. 6kw stove fitted €650 fitted or fire front door €300 fitted?

    Hi mytime, if I didn't have the back boiler I probably would have went for an inset stove they are more efficient and controllable and some of them require very little work to fit. Dee


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 360 ✭✭mytime


    Ok thanks I'll go stove hunting again
    dbdee77 wrote: »
    Hi mytime, if I didn't have the back boiler I probably would have went for an inset stove they are more efficient and controllable and some of them require very little work to fit. Dee


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    Hi Slaney how's it going with the fire door?


  • Registered Users Posts: 44 wicklowtown


    Hi you've probably found the Devielle fire front door by now, ive only just seen your question but just in case anyone else is looking for one I bought one last week in Bolands of Arklow for €249 and im delighted with it so far, i just have to figure out how to use it properly now


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    Hi you've probably found the Devielle fire front door by now, ive only just seen your question but just in case anyone else is looking for one I bought one last week in Bolands of Arklow for €249 and im delighted with it so far, i just have to figure out how to use it properly now

    Hi wicklowtown, they are a good addition to an open fire with mine I have both vents open to get the fire started once she's going I close over top vent leaving it open about a quarter and gradually start closing bottom vent until you get the burn rate you want. Dee


  • Registered Users Posts: 96 ✭✭david2002


    slaney wrote: »
    is ur baffle going back to the back boiler or is there a gap

    i have a yola door. . And radiators not heating. Flames appear to go up in front of back boiler. . . Should there be no gap between baffle and back boiler. We have a gap at the minute and would be great if that was the problem. Any help appreciated . . .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    david2002 wrote: »
    i have a yola door. . And radiators not heating. Flames appear to go up in front of back boiler. . . Should there be no gap between baffle and back boiler. We have a gap at the minute and would be great if that was the problem. Any help appreciated . . .

    Pull damper of back boiler out to get flame through middle of boiler


  • Registered Users Posts: 96 ✭✭david2002


    Robbie.G wrote: »
    Pull damper of back boiler out to get flame through middle of boiler

    yea. I have pulled it out as always . . But like previous posters i don't think there is enough draw to get flame up the back for back boiler. . . Will try open the door slightly as suggested to see if this helps but as a long term solution this would be pointless !


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    david2002 wrote: »
    yea. I have pulled it out as always . . But like previous posters i don't think there is enough draw to get flame up the back for back boiler. . . Will try open the door slightly as suggested to see if this helps but as a long term solution this would be pointless !

    Hi David, opening the door will make the flames go to back boiler but I to think this will be pointless, the same is happening with my own door so I was thinking of moving baffle plate closer to back boiler In the thinking of when I open the damper it might make it create a larger draft as I would have reduced the draw going up the chimney and allow it to divert to boiler, someone else might be better to answer this who has had the same experience. Dee


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  • Registered Users Posts: 96 ✭✭david2002


    dbdee77 wrote: »
    Hi David, opening the door will make the flames go to back boiler but I to think this will be pointless, the same is happening with my own door so I was thinking of moving baffle plate closer to back boiler In the thinking of when I open the damper it might make it create a larger draft as I would have reduced the draw going up the chimney and allow it to divert to boiler, someone else might be better to answer this who has had the same experience. Dee

    I got the rads heating today :) . . I pulled the damper right out. . . as in way out so that it was blocking the gap between the edge of the baffle and the back boiler . . . This diverted the flames up the back of the back boiler . . . The missus was delighted with me . . and I mean "delighted" !!! . .


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    david2002 wrote: »
    I got the rads heating today :) . . I pulled the damper right out. . . as in way out so that it was blocking the gap between the edge of the baffle and the back boiler . . . This diverted the flames up the back of the back boiler . . . The missus was delighted with me . . and I mean "delighted" !!! . .

    That's great, mine slides across rather than pulling out so I wonder if I moved baffle close would i get the same effect, did you notice better heat to rads rather than before door fitted. Dee


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,301 ✭✭✭daithi55


    hi guys has anyone much feed back on the devielle fire front door it can be bought here for 250 euro a bargain i think i only use turf so not sure how it will run it http://www.stoveshop.ie/products/de-vielle-firefront-door.html


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 jmlfc


    I have a grant back boiler with a http://www.goodwins.ie/p-28528-grant-back-boiler-grate-18.aspx (16'') grate

    Could someone oblige and tell me the correct firefront to use? I know the queenstar but its an ugly thing. I have a curved one at the moment however on a couple of occasions, all has spilt out onto the hearth causing alarm and panic...


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 slaney


    hey dbdee 77, i forgot my password and never finished gettin it sorted, with xmas and all

    Anyway i'm happy with the boru door, the room is warmer, i'm using less fuel and rads stay warmer for longer,

    i start with both vents open, then after hour or so, close the bottom vent and keep top one open fully for most of the night and halfish near end of nite. closing it over makes it go sooty on the door, so i clean that every day. i also think keepin top vent pushes vent back up to the boiler- not sure.

    still messing about with the door vents, but close bottom vent after an hour to control the burn from the top.

    happy enough with it .

    the deville is meant to be ok, boru is thicker but costs a bit more


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1 eilishoshea


    Hi,
    Has anybody used the new cara plus insert, supposed to heat up to 10 radiators plus room its in?


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 jmlfc


    where can I buy a queenstar firefront pack in black to suit 16'' grant back boiler?


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    slaney wrote: »
    hey dbdee 77, i forgot my password and never finished gettin it sorted, with xmas and all

    Anyway i'm happy with the boru door, the room is warmer, i'm using less fuel and rads stay warmer for longer,

    i start with both vents open, then after hour or so, close the bottom vent and keep top one open fully for most of the night and halfish near end of nite. closing it over makes it go sooty on the door, so i clean that every day. i also think keepin top vent pushes vent back up to the boiler- not sure.

    still messing about with the door vents, but close bottom vent after an hour to control the burn from the top.

    happy enough with it .

    the deville is meant to be ok, boru is thicker but costs a bit more

    Hi Slaney sorry only getting back, that's great are you keeping fire lit 24/7 and if you are how much and what coal are you using, thnks Dee.


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 dbdee77


    jmlfc wrote: »
    where can I buy a queenstar firefront pack in black to suit 16'' grant back boiler?

    Hi jmlfc, I've seen them for sale in hardware shops and you get the ashpan and tool with it or you can get them online just by googling the make. Thnks Dee


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    The Deville fire front doors are poor quality in comparison to the Yola,Boru etc.They are about half the weight so draw your own conclusions there in relation to build quality,efficency etc.
    Surprised the Porto door is not being mentioned,great quality and retailing around e399-e450.
    http://www.henleystoves.com/insert-stoves/porto-stove-door


  • Registered Users Posts: 25 SecretGarden


    Imptech wrote: »
    Fitted the Yola Steel Fire Door 2 days ago with an adapter plate (fitted against a cast insert fire place had to remove the existing hood on the fire place 2 bolts) all good so far. Fitted door in less than 2 hours, lit a handy fire the first night to bake the paint and cure the fire cement, day 2 lit the fire at 7.30am at 8pm room temperature was 26 degrees ( room size 16' X 17' opens up to a kitchen 20' X 14' 23 degrees out here house well insulated), used 50% less fuel. Bought the door directly from the lads at Yola in Wexford

    I'd love to fit a fire door to my cast iron insert but I'm wondering if it's possible to retain the insert - Imptech, I see you were very impressed with your door and you mentioned an existing hood on your insert - what did you use to replace the hood?

    My insert has tiles down each side with approx 1.75 inch strip of cast on each side of the fire ope. Will that be enough to seal the door front to the insert?

    There's an 18" Firebird back boiler in the fireplace


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 BPB


    chad69 wrote: »
    Hi robbieG
    yes but my rads were heating perfectally well until i fitted the door
    so obviously it has something to do with it
    have you any suggestions ?

    is the door hitting of the damper and closing it. If so cut the handle on the damper.
    Don't know what kind of boiler you have but you may need to remove the bit in front of the grate


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 BPB


    chad69 wrote: »
    Hi robbieG
    yes but my rads were heating perfectally well until i fitted the door
    so obviously it has something to do with it
    have you any suggestions ?

    Is the door hitting of the damper and closing it. If so cut the handle on the damper to shorten it.
    Don't know what kind of boiler you have but you may need to remove the bit in front of the grate


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 Rightontime


    Hi I'm thinking also of fitting the doras fire door,didnt know there was any other on the market, have to get this right as its for my 86 year old mother that loves her heat, presently she has a small stanley stove that only heats her living area, although she does have a back boiler and rad's in each room, hence the change back to the fire door (maybe)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,892 ✭✭✭deezell


    Deville firefront door is €250 in Topline in Baltinglass


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 16,724 Mod ✭✭✭✭yop


    Reading the threads and still not sure what our best option is;
    We have an open fire, might be lit once maybe twice per week during the autumn to spring period but never during the summer.
    There is no backboiler, I have UFH throughout the house.

    One of the main reasons I was going with fire front doors was that it was easy to install and a lot cheaper than a stove from what I can see. Also with a stove I will need to get someone to install it and also presume I need that silver tubing to go all the way up the chimney which is also very expensive.

    So without a backboiler are fire doors a total no no?
    IF they are, what alternative do I really have?

    Many thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,892 ✭✭✭deezell


    yop wrote: »
    ........

    So without a backboiler are fire doors a total no no?
    IF they are, what alternative do I really have?

    Many thanks

    To avoid burning out the fire back you should fit a firedoor / stove which has the metal insert shaped to fit into your fireplace without removing the back. These slide in just as easy as a door. Unless you burn too much coal or put in something like anthracite, you won't need to line your chimney with that flue pipe. If you overheat the door/ stove you will just as likely damage it before you crack your chimney breast.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 16,724 Mod ✭✭✭✭yop


    deezell wrote: »
    To avoid burning out the fire back you should fit a firedoor / stove which has the metal insert shaped to fit into your fireplace without removing the back. These slide in just as easy as a door. Unless you burn too much coal or put in something like anthracite, you won't need to line your chimney with that flue pipe. If you overheat the door/ stove you will just as likely damage it before you crack your chimney breast.

    Ok great info.
    I definitely don't intend to remove the fireback. The Fireplace is very deep and the fireplace is pretty wide (23 inches). Its a stone front fire which could make it akward fitting the door.


  • Registered Users Posts: 17 molltrot


    We bought our fire door, boru, in stove shop in woodbine estate about 2 years ago . Was less than 300 on sale. best thing we ever bought, Great for heating rads,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,009 ✭✭✭jkforde


    hope ok to resurrect an old thread..

    we don't have a back boiler in our fireplace but i do want to stop the draft up the chimney from sucking out all the heat.. what are the convection doors like, do they work well?

    🌦️ 6.7kwp, 45°, SSW, mid-Galway 🌦️

    "Since I no longer expect anything from mankind except madness, meanness, and mendacity; egotism, cowardice, and self-delusion, I have stopped being a misanthrope." Irving Layton



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