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Boiler problems

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  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭LazyClouds


    That's ok man, you've been great help so far! I've turned it back the other way then.


  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭LazyClouds


    Em, I don't know man- this is what I'm looking at and there's nothing else there.


  • Registered Users Posts: 771 ✭✭✭gdavis


    sorry just realised wrong valve only saw ur pic now.close that one fully clockwise,then open back up one revolution anti clockwise.the one u looking for will be on the vertical heading for ceiling on same pipe


  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭LazyClouds


    gdavis wrote: »
    sorry just realised wrong valve only saw ur pic now.close that one fully clockwise,then open back up one revolution anti clockwise.the one u looking for will be on the vertical heading for ceiling on same pipe

    Yeah I think I found another tap just up from where we were, I think you can kinda tell where it is from the first pic:

    DSC_0037.jpg

    DSC_0038.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭LazyClouds


    But um like, you know the problem is with the boiler downstairs yes? It's outside in the outhouse and it's blinking the F1 error. Just thought I'd remind you...


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  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭LazyClouds


    But I know nothing so don't listen to me. These things are all interconnected, like I know the hot press is connected to the boiler so don't mind me I'm just venting because I'm cold...


  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭LazyClouds


    sorry man, gotta go eat something... Be back soon.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    That last valve the brass one it looks to be the feed to the heating open it count to 5 and close it again then check your pressure


  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭LazyClouds


    Just did that now and I went downstairs to check but the boiler's still got the error code F1 flashing...


  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭LazyClouds


    No more help? Or am I doomed to pay for a professional... :(


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    LazyClouds wrote: »
    Just did that now and I went downstairs to check but the boiler's still got the error code F1 flashing...
    Did you hear any water running or gushing when you opened the valve.Have you tried to reset the boiler again the boiler should work at 0.5 bar
    REsET pROCEDURE
    To reset boiler, turn the mode control knob (B) to reset position and immediately turn knob back to ON


  • Registered Users Posts: 155 ✭✭seamusmacc


    not sure is that any help, my valves for topping up the gauge pressure are actually in the attic, and they are beside the water tank, even though my boiler on the ground floor, and the hot press on first floor.


  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭LazyClouds


    seamusmacc wrote: »
    not sure is that any help, my valves for topping up the gauge pressure are actually in the attic, and they are beside the water tank, even though my boiler on the ground floor, and the hot press on first floor.

    Same.


  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭LazyClouds


    I reset it like you said put it's still flashing F1...


  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭LazyClouds


    So cold... :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 771 ✭✭✭gdavis


    ok,did u open that valve and if so did pressure rise?just open for maybe ten seconds
    then close again.go down and check at boiler gauge.also turn power off to boiler and then back on,then reset procedure again.if problem is low pressure that brass valve will let water in and if u reset as per manual u should be sorted.does manual say anything else for f1?


  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭LazyClouds


    Sorry, I decided to drown my sorrows in tv... But I'm back! Nothing happened when I turned the brass valve in the hot press. I didn't hear any water or anything and the boiler is still flashing F1 no matter how many times I reset it.
    Do you think I should turn the brass valve in the hot press and the valves down under the boiler too?


  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭LazyClouds


    Well, I went ahead and tried my bright idea but nothing again... Now I'm gonna wake up in the morning to a freezing cold house... Yay.


  • Registered Users Posts: 744 ✭✭✭dpofloinn


    Can you find anything that looks like this http://www.wickes.co.uk/content/ebiz/wickes/invt/443011/Combi-Boiler-Filling-Loop_large.jpg or this http://web.tradekorea.com/upload_file2/product/107/P00258107/cbe9caa5_506f7c61_b2be_4884_98a2_f06feadb40b5.jpg near your boiler,or in your hot press, Also check your attic if you have one,they are sometimes installed up there especially in homes that have been retro fitted


  • Registered Users Posts: 771 ✭✭✭gdavis


    the valves under boiler have nothing to do with it.they just isolate the gas,flow and return at boiler as i told u already.i dont have manual at hand so does it say anything else for f1? also leave brass valve opened [anti clockwise] for longer period of time maybe a minute before closing,i think it is tank fed so shouldnt rise dramatically or too high. as said before the boiler should work on 0.5 bar anyway so i would be interested to know what else f1 is as per manual


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    72 aLTERNaTINg ‘F’ aND ‘1’ - LOW WaTER pREssURE
    Is the Boiler and CH System filled with water and all isolation and radiator valves open (check pressure gauge is between 1 to 1.5 bar)?
    Fill and vent the system and open all isolation valves
    Re-fit connections
    YES
    NO
    NO YES
    Are connections on water pressure sensor secure?
    Replace water pressure sensor


  • Registered Users Posts: 771 ✭✭✭gdavis


    so op.if u do get pressure up and reset to no avail,u may call in a rgi and he can check sensor etc.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    It's taken 53 posts and we still don't know if the system is gravity fed or mains fed.My guess is that it's mains fed due to the fact someone fitted a 332 proper stopcock on if it was gravity i would expect to see a 367.A 332 would cost about twice the price of a fill loop.So to sum it up there is a few possible problems its mains fed and its not topped ip enough.the non return is jammed, the boiler valves are turned off or lastly the flow switch needs looking at as a said this is post 54 and that's where we are


  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭LazyClouds


    I genuinely don't know if it's mains fed or otherwise, I'm actually just banging on things at this stage... I'll try leaving the brass valve on for a bit and see what happens.


  • Registered Users Posts: 771 ✭✭✭gdavis


    i know rob its painful.the stopcock coulda been the only valve in plumbers toolbox! op could follow it to its source in attic with his camera to clarify.in one of first posts op u have pic of valves under boiler and they are in open position.are they still in this position? as they should be.also have u had any work done on heating recently?


  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭LazyClouds


    WHat am I looking for in the attic? Do you think there's another valve upstairs? Sorry I can't take any photos today- someones gone off with my camera...


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    LazyClouds wrote: »
    WHat am I looking for in the attic? Do you think there's another valve upstairs? Sorry I can't take any photos today- someones gone off with my camera...

    Your looking to follow the pipe with the valve in the hot press into the attic and see where it's connected.We want to establish if it connected to a tank or an other pipe.


  • Registered Users Posts: 520 ✭✭✭LazyClouds


    I have my uncle over now to see if he can fix it. Thanks so much for your help anyway! You really went out of your way and I very much appreciate it! Thanks to everyone!
    Hopefully you won't get another post from me again about this damn boiler...


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  • Registered Users Posts: 771 ✭✭✭gdavis


    u get sorted???


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