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Oil Boiler only runs for few seconds

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    You need to have it serviced, sounds like flue gases are leaking inside the housing.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    Your boiler is out of tune and needs a professional service. Boiler not running also indicates fumes leaking from it inside boiler hut. When door is open the burner is getting nice fresh air with 20.9 % oxygen in it. ( I would have just said 21% Oxygen but some people here are sticklers for proper facts, fact !)


    Anyway, I was saying about the fumes that ALL 100% should be going out the chimney. the Oxygen level is down to about 5% in fumes and if this is leaking out in boiler hut it results in boiler cutting out.

    You need a proper service by somebody with a flue gas analizer.

    Somebody here on Boards is offering a 30% discount and distance is not a problem if you live in Ireland. For legal reasions I cannot give out a name, but look up NO NAME he's a laugh.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    scudo2 wrote: »
    Somebody here on Boards is offering a 30% discount and distance is not a problem if you live in Ireland. For legal reasions I cannot give out a name, but look up NO NAME he's a laugh.

    I have had enough of your cheap skate digs & if your life is that miserable that you have to comment about me in every thread, then I think we should take this to the Mods to sort out.
    You are taking this far beyond weird & you are taking it far beyond a joke.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭jimf


    also make sure the insulation from the door panel is not loose and falling down on top of the air intake when the door is fitted


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    Photo cell on firebird have a tendency to give trouble if not totaly clean also.

    Its 1 1/2" to the right of the red reset button. Wriggle and pull it out and clean the front sensor. A bit of handy info for you but you'll still need a service.

    What area are you in ?
    Maybe we can help.


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Enough of this.
    Scudo take a weeks holiday from here and come back with a better attitude if you want to continue posting here.
    The lads here give their time and help generously and do not deserve or want your snide remarks.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Posts deleted and one muppet banned.
    Please don't feed the trolls.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    Thats very selfish of you Koolkid, Gary wanted to ban someone.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Ahh there will be plenty more. We seem to attract the persistent types here.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    I bet that was our marching friend QBE or whatever he calls himself.


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    KoolKid wrote: »
    Posts deleted and one muppet banned.
    Please don't feed the trolls.
    Ahhh Ref............:(

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    shane0007 wrote: »
    I bet that was our marching friend QBE or whatever he calls himself.

    No , but there was some obvious matches to other friends ...;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    KoolKid wrote: »
    No , but there was some obvious matches to other friends ...;)

    Oooh, pray tell, pray tell....


  • Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭crzybkr73


    hello my pump is turning and seems to be able to pump oil internally. the problem is that it does not come out from the line that goes to the nozzle. could this be the solenoid or its valve that are faulty. or could it be the small double spring assembly that is inside when the pressure adjustment bolt is removed. sorry if my terms are incorrec. ps i have an old pump i disassembled to try to figure the problem out. photocdell clean and new nozzle fitted but cant get oil to go that far.
    thanks


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    crzybkr73 wrote: »
    hello my pump is turning and seems to be able to pump oil internally. the problem is that it does not come out from the line that goes to the nozzle. could this be the solenoid or its valve that are faulty. or could it be the small double spring assembly that is inside when the pressure adjustment bolt is removed. sorry if my terms are incorrec. ps i have an old pump i disassembled to try to figure the problem out. photocdell clean and new nozzle fitted but cant get oil to go that far.
    thanks

    If pump pressure is ok, then its probably the solenoid valve or coil that is wrong. Are you getting lots of oil out of the bleed screw when pump is running? How did you discover that it is pumping oil internally?

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭crzybkr73


    yes a good flow comes from the bleed screw. i removed the pump outer cover to clean the filter. it was pretty muggy with grit and probably water damage. i will pressure test the pump tomorrow


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    crzybkr73 wrote: »
    yes a good flow comes from the bleed screw. i removed the pump outer cover to clean the filter. it was pretty muggy with grit and probably water damage. i will pressure test the pump tomorrow

    Not looking good for the pump at all. Wouldn't bet too much on you being able to get a steady acceptable pressure reading, but you never know.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    crzybkr73 wrote: »
    yes a good flow comes from the bleed screw. i removed the pump outer cover to clean the filter. it was pretty muggy with grit and probably water damage. i will pressure test the pump tomorrow
    looks like a new pump.They dont like water/grit.You can test the coil by checking the resistance between the two wires.It should be 100 ohms.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭jimf


    crzybkr73 wrote: »
    yes a good flow comes from the bleed screw. i removed the pump outer cover to clean the filter. it was pretty muggy with grit and probably water damage. i will pressure test the pump tomorrow

    you will then need to remove the source of your problem as well as new pumps don't like water either


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    crzybkr73 wrote: »
    yes a good flow comes from the bleed screw. i removed the pump outer cover to clean the filter. it was pretty muggy with grit and probably water damage. i will pressure test the pump tomorrow

    Water damage, looks for want of better words, white snotty substance in the filter in oil pump, filter on nozzle and similar sneeze splashes on blast tube. If so you will have to test oil tank for water and if so get it syphoned /pumped out as its at the button 2" of the tank.
    If you only replace oil pump it won't last long. + boiler needs to be serviced.

    Did oil come out the small pressure pipe at the back of the pump ?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭crzybkr73


    scudo2 wrote: »
    Water damage, looks for want of better words, white snotty substance in the filter in oil pump, filter on nozzle and similar sneeze splashes on blast tube. If so you will have to test oil tank for water and if so get it syphoned /pumped out as its at the button 2" of the tank.
    If you only replace oil pump it won't last long. + boiler needs to be serviced.

    Did oil come out the small pressure pipe at the back of the pump ?
    which pipe do you mean. no oil is coming out the one that leads to the nozzle. if you mean the hex head pressure nut on the top right face of the pump, yes oil comes from it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    crzybkr73 wrote: »
    which pipe do you mean. no oil is coming out the one that leads to the nozzle. if you mean the hex head pressure nut on the top right face of the pump, yes oil comes from it

    No oil out the pipe to the nozzle = new pump in most cases. 5% chance its box or solonide.
    No disrespect with this question but do you have a lot of experience with oil. Its just that a good service engineer could save you a lot of hassle in the long run,



    ps. Are you the crazy biker also known as "animal" x UK + a plumber @ Cork VIKINGS
    If so hi.
    From
    Ur X boss !!


  • Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭crzybkr73


    scudo2 wrote: »
    No oil out the pipe to the nozzle = new pump in most cases. 5% chance its box or solonide.
    No disrespect with this question but do you have a lot of experience with oil. Its just that a good service engineer could save you a lot of hassle in the long run,



    ps. Are you the crazy biker also known as "animal" x UK + a plumber @ Cork VIKINGS
    If so hi.
    From
    Ur X boss !!
    no sorry i am not the same person.
    i have a little experience with oil. enough to get me through most jobs, but by no means am i an expert. i am out of work due to illness at the moment so trying to save money wherever i can. but my experience is more on the plumbing side, and also motor mechanics. never dealt with a burner pump before so trying to learn myself a bit


  • Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭crzybkr73


    just tested the solenoid and it reads 70 ohms. i guess it is definately faulty as i am told it should be around 450. need to get a pipe for pressure gauge so will post later on the pressure test


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    crzybkr73 wrote: »
    just tested the solenoid and it reads 70 ohms. i guess it is definately faulty as i am told it should be around 450. need to get a pipe for pressure gauge so will post later on the pressure test

    Solenoid coil should be around 100 ohms, certainly not 450.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭crzybkr73


    Wearb wrote: »
    Solenoid coil should be around 100 ohms, certainly not 450.
    oh, ok, thanks. so is 70/75 ohms ok


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    crzybkr73 wrote: »
    oh, ok, thanks. so is 70/75 ohms ok

    Depending on the accuracy of your meter, I would think its OK.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭crzybkr73


    Wearb wrote: »
    Depending on the accuracy of your meter, I would think its OK.
    thanks again wearb. now just a final question. it has a 1 gph nozzle fitted(large house), what should i set everything at ie pressure air etc, assuming that pump is ok, or if i fit a new one


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    crzybkr73 wrote: »
    thanks again wearb. now just a final question. it has a 1 gph nozzle fitted(large house), what should i set everything at ie pressure air etc, assuming that pump is ok, or if i fit a new one

    As a rule of thumb about 8 bar for kerosene, but that is only a small part of the storey. I would need to know your boiler make and model to be exact.
    You also need to have the air fuel mixture accurately set. This can only be properly done with a combustion analyser. Failure to do this properly could lead to dangerous levels of carbon monoxide (the silent killer. no smell, taste or visibility). It would also mean that you would be wasting fuel.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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  • Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭crzybkr73


    it is a riello rdb 1. i went for a new pump today. my old solenoid coil seems to be holding up ok, but when i close the door(outside model)the burner hangs from oxygen starvation i presume, but possibly gases blowing back i am guessing. set to 8 bar, but have had to leave the door cracked open several inches to allow it to run so i guess the combustion analyser is my only option left now


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