The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

cantdecide

gn3dr wrote: »

Starting to look more complete.
I went back and looked at your part 1 video but work had already started. Do you have any "before" pictures.

Well my buddy who bought it for himself had partially stripped it and I'd done a little more stripping before I started shooting video so I'll have to try and get the other fella to give me any 'before' pics he might have for it.

gn3dr wrote: »

They're not a bad looking bike. I think the tank on them is a nice shape.

Where are you located? Sounds like a hint of a Cork accent? I could weld the frame for you but you'd have to get the frame to me, located just outside Killarney.
You would be better of having it stripped down to the bare frame though for that work.

I always liked them too!

I'm actually in East Cork so maybe a little further away than viable but thanks for the offer. There's still a decent amount of 3D space in there once the wheel is popped off again. It was my mate that looked at it before the lockdown told me he would do the job in situ so I went with his advice. I decided against stripping her completely because these bikes are a hoor to get the engines in and out of (even if you drop the frame over the engine sideways), there's no removable cradle bars on the bike.

cantdecide

H_Lime wrote: »

The plastic welding is something I'd have to practice at I'm guessing, must watch a tutorial as I'm unsure about the zip tie is melted into the v. Hope I never need to do it tho:)

It's honestly no big deal. The only real technique I'd recommend is V out the crack and squash the new material in kind of under the soldering tip. It's quite straight forward really. The clean up requires patience is all i can tell you.

H_Lime wrote: »

Are you using two pack to do the DIY painting? It was my hope to start learning that on this project but I chickened out. There's real concerns using 2k and it essentially poisoning ye. I had kinda taken it lightly but after reading up on it I bowed out as wasn't going to spend the bucks on the right ppe realistically.

I've painted panels with aerosol to a pretty decent finish but I wouldn't use it on a tank personally but that's just me and I could be wrong in that. I've yet to find a lacquer in a tin that is petrol proof.

I'm kinda disappointed I didn't have a crack off it tbh and may save up for the right kit. I have a room in the garage I could very easily convert into a booth as it has inlet and outlet pipes for air.

I'm for sure not taking it lightly either. I have a makeshift 'booth' in my shed and I'm going to get proper extraction going and will get a respirator too. The biggest thing for the Fazer for me is the learning. I've left a genocide of rattle cans in my wake over the years so I'm not too intimidated about the technique as long as I have the process and products down.

Do you can get a proper a proper 2k clear in a can? It has two chambers. Maybe I'm telling you something you already know.

H_Lime

cantdecide wrote: »

It's honestly no big deal. The only real technique I'd recommend is V out the crack and squash the new material in kind of under the soldering tip. It's quite straight forward really. The clean up requires patience is all i can tell you.



I'm for sure not taking it lightly either. I have a makeshift 'booth' in my shed and I'm going to get proper extraction going and will get a respirator too. The biggest thing for the Fazer for me is the learning. I've left a genocide of rattle cans in my wake over the years so I'm not too intimidated about the technique as long as I have the process and products down.

Do you can get a proper a proper 2k clear in a can? It has two chambers. Maybe I'm telling you something you already know.

Eager to see your results, did not know know you could get 2k lacquer in a can!

cantdecide

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uwt8jfgEiNY

H_Lime

cantdecide wrote: »

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uwt8jfgEiNY

Kewl yer poised to strike😉
As much dets as poss on the whole painting accoutrements, what size gun you go for? gravity feed? the moisture trap yada yada.
I hear you re the conflicting info. Piston heads has a few UK based tutorials by tasty fellas starting out with smarts and good methodology. Are you colour matching and by what method?
Good luck with it, kinda wish I did risk it for a biscuit now:(
If yer around North Cork I can loan you a decent cfm extraction fan with ducting.

Today I was a dope and forgot to take off my disc lock before moving off. Dropped the multistrada leaving a scratch on the fairing and breaking the left handgaurd/indicator :mad:
The handgaurd itself seems to be cheap enough but the led indicator is pricey. Which is annoying, it still works but one of the brackets that holds it onto the handgaurd snapped so I can't get away with not replacing that too.
All in all very annoying as I was planning on trading it in but then the lockdown happened. My ankle is pretty sore from trying to hold the bike up as it went down as well

H_Lime

Bummer Nialler, get yerself onto ebay, might find a clean 2nd hand part.

Set my air gap in project Drastics forks, 7 inches baby!

gn3dr

H_Lime wrote: »

Bummer Nialler, get yerself onto ebay, might find a clean 2nd hand part.

Set my air gap in project Drastics forks, 7 inches baby!

I see you have the Dude watching over your work:)

H_Lime

gn3dr wrote: »

I see you have the Dude watching over your work:)

The dude abides!!! :pac:;)

cantdecide

What forks are they from , H_L?

H_Lime

cantdecide wrote: »

What forks are they from , H_L?

89 Dr big CD, the one I'm meddling with presently.
You get my pm bud? It's not in my outbox so unsure.
How goes the rebuild!

cantdecide

What forks are they from , H_L?

lennymc

H_Lime wrote: »

The dude abides!!! :pac:;)

Those forks really tie the bike together, man

H_Lime

lennymc wrote: »

Those forks really tie the bike together, man

They're a very complicated fork Lenny. You know, a lotta ins, a lotta outs, lotta what-have-yous.

lennymc

H_Lime wrote: »

They're a very complicated fork Lenny. You know, a lotta ins, a lotta outs, lotta what-have-yous.

You have no frame of reference here, H_Lime. You’re like a child who wanders into the middle of a movie

bladespin

In the process of getting the kwacker running again and have run into a leaking tank, what's best to seal with, have seen youtube vids recommending Por 15, Sloash etc but can't find it here, any suggestions?

H_Lime

bladespin wrote: »

In the process of getting the kwacker running again and have run into a leaking tank, what's best to seal with, have seen youtube vids recommending Por 15, Sloash etc but can't find it here, any suggestions?

Caswells. Get it in from UK.

bladespin

H_Lime wrote: »

Caswells. Get it in from UK.

Caswells

After a week's searching that's just glorious! Thanks

The QuietMan

I finally grew a pair and opened up the busa’s airbox for starters

Soundman

Not today, but a few days ago once parts came in. Been wanting to rejet the carb on my 04 Shadow VLX600. Took 2 months to get the parts from the USA and Italy due to the lockdown.

Took the carb apart, cleaned and scrubbed it, then realised that the bloody thing had already been jetted, and just needed a small adjustment of the AF D-screw.
What a waste of time and money in waiting for the jet kit since I didn't need it after all.

Either way, was happy with the results of the clean and adjustment since I've never taken anything apart on a bike before.

Anyone looking to buy a rejet kit? :rolleyes:

H_Lime

Good to see we're all hard at it in the temple of tool:)
Myself I've been righting some loom wrongs.





Doing clearances.


Renewing hosing.


And bolting bits on bit by bit.

lennymc

ah man, full floaters, i just hate them...

Looking good H_lime

When are you rebuilding the mower?

edit - am i seeing things, or are there two levers on the lhs bar.

H_Lime

lennymc wrote: »

ah man, full floaters, i just hate them...

Looking good H_lime

When are you rebuilding the mower?

edit - am i seeing things, or are there two levers on the lhs bar.

That mowers a survivor! It came from a good stable.
Full floaters are a sign of a high fibre diet, that or you own an 80's jap bike called a "big" and having a rising rate linkage to a monoshock was a big deal:pac:
Second levers decompression, won't start without it and you also use it to stop the bike to prevent kick back approaching tdc on compression which can cock up the starter gears/sprag. More "charm" you see:)

lennymc

charm is code for old stuff that has some kind of work around, and will probably kill you if it fails.
Like saying the TL1000S was charming....

galwaytt

lennymc wrote: »

charm is code for old stuff that has some kind of work around, and will probably kill you if it fails.
Like saying the TL1000S was charming....

indeed: rotary dampers: who knew, eh ?

blade1

H_Lime wrote: »

That mowers a survivor! It came from a good stable.
Full floaters are a sign of a high fibre diet, that or you own an 80's jap bike called a "big" and having a rising rate linkage to a monoshock was a big deal:pac:
Second levers decompression, won't start without it and you also use it to stop the bike to prevent kick back approaching tdc on compression which can cock up the starter gears/sprag. More "charm" you see:)

My second bike was full floater.
TS100

LollipopJimmy

Gace mine a good clean.

CJhaughey

I had a TS100ER but mine was twin shock. 94 reg.

lennymc

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

Gace mine a good clean.

Looks like a very localised snow storm

LollipopJimmy

lennymc wrote: »

Looks like a very localised snow storm

It's like the inside of my pants when I hit the redline.

This snowfoam is class, not usually a fan of muc off stuff but this is the muc off snowfoam and it does a cracking job, I use it on my road bike too.