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The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Did welding in FAS (Remember them?:pac:) 20 years ago, you'd pick it up quick enough, i wish i was as gifted as you guys with this stuff, looking forward to the next installment.

    They were on the radio the other day talking about setting up an online group for people that were in Fás.
    Fásbook. :pac:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭The QuietMan


    blade1 wrote: »
    They were on the radio the other day talking about setting up an online group for people that were in Fás.
    Fásbook. :pac:

    You nearly had me looking for a minute :o :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,066 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    cantdecide wrote: »
    Fair play to yis!!



    I can't weld myself (yet!!) so it's difficult to arrange things given the way of the world at the moment but there's plenty else to get on with for now. I'll carry on with as much frame prep as I can in the meantime :cool:

    Are you tempted to drop the motor and coat the frame?
    It would delay things a lot for you tho and yeah this feckin bat virus is a major bike build downer on top of all the real issues. Thankfully I got mine done prior to all this but still waiting for the engine to come back:( I'm slow to start building up the chassis as it's just so damn easy to lower the frame over the engine if laid on its side and bolt er in, no scraped no drama. Lifting her in is a 68kg ballache.
    Next time scaldi balls or diddles are selling a stick welder buy one! Fun blowing holes in metal. I'm a novice but am getting better and had a go of mig which I loved!
    Get the next vid up!!!!

    Ps yer blessed with all the spares!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭The QuietMan


    Was sorting out the rear carrier for my bike, cleaning it,acf50 etc, when I discovered the brackets holding it to the bike were covered in electrical tape, i unravelled it and this is the result, some pieces of scrap metal put to use. Might as well polish and paint them

    7-C8-F1-EA5-775-B-452-F-A173-96-B6946-F9095.jpg

    BCE54-C7-B-7279-4-B4-A-A5-B9-D46103802-B13.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,363 ✭✭✭✭cantdecide


    H_Lime wrote: »
    Are you tempted to drop the motor and coat the frame?

    Always tempted but there was a few reasons not to this time. We used the parts bike for a practice run and we confirmed what we'd read elsewhere; getting the engine out of the frame is a pain on these bikes. Even if you dropped the frame over the engine, there would be a lot of risk to your new finishes. In this case, a "restoration" is a bit of a stretch, it's really a cosmetic restoration of a low mileage bike so the valve clearance check is as far into the engine we need to go. I believe it won't be difficult to get a good, reliable finish.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,363 ✭✭✭✭cantdecide


    Fazer update... if I rub it any more, I may go blind.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,066 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    cantdecide wrote: »
    Fazer update... if I rub it any more, I may go blind.

    All good, and very organised;) Puts my chaos to shame:pac:
    The white boards a good idea.

    What's your thoughts on the subframe repair, cosmetic or structural?
    Temptation is fill the sides till she's closes, grind back and spray over.
    I suppose if it were mine I'd seek someone with better skills than myself to weld a section of half tube faced over the hole expending up and down to assure myself that it would not want to fold. This would more than likely be a visible repair tho yea?
    How thin is the metal in the corroded area around there?
    Perhaps pm a link of some pics of it to "gn3dr" on here and ask his opinion?

    Love to see your plating efforts. It's something I'd like to do but I'm lazy and I've not done it before. Bought a load of oem fasteners there from megazip today. Christ it doesn't be long adding up. Like a complete nerd I even bought the warning stickers and all the bespoke clips and rubber bits for around the bars. These little bits are all in sight every time your on it so said I would.

    Re your dinged tank, is it bad? If not this may be of use to ya, worked well for me
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=111940314&postcount=4077

    Mad the airbox is captive without engine removal!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,363 ✭✭✭✭cantdecide


    Frame refinish is continuing. My beloved Hammerite Smooth black does the biz once again. I've layered on a coat over the scabbiest bits to seal the bare metal and I'll join the dots later for the final finish.

    6034073


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,363 ✭✭✭✭cantdecide


    H_Lime wrote: »
    All good, and very organised;) Puts my chaos to shame:pac:
    The white boards a good idea.

    I'm fond of a good list!
    H_Lime wrote: »
    What's your thoughts on the subframe repair, cosmetic or structural? How thin is the metal in the corroded area around there?

    It needs some grafting but it's fine. I think I have someone (...acceptable given the current circumstance) to sort it out. The hole is very localised so I'm not worried about it. It's just steel at the end of the day.
    H_Lime wrote: »
    Love to see your plating efforts.

    Stand by. I really need to see if the chems are going to be available. I think it doesn't seem to be that difficult as long as you have the right stuff and follow the method.
    H_Lime wrote: »
    Re your dinged tank, is it bad? If not this may be of use to ya, worked well for me
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=111940314&postcount=4077

    It's got a very stiff crease and will need bodyworking for sure. I'll send it out for bodyworking but we'll paint it ourselves :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭The QuietMan


    I’m about to embark on an acf50 mission, to say I’m nervous about the stand is an understatement

    108-E79-C6-F38-F-40-F7-836-E-BDA3-B2-AA7219.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    I’m about to embark on an acf50 mission, to say I’m nervous about the stand is an understatement

    108-E79-C6-F38-F-40-F7-836-E-BDA3-B2-AA7219.jpg

    Why, won't go anywhere as long as the hooks are in the bobbins correctly.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭The QuietMan


    blade1 wrote: »
    Why, won't go anywhere as long as the hooks are in the bobbins correctly.

    My first time :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,363 ✭✭✭✭cantdecide


    If you're using the U-shaped pads (rather than the hooks for bobbins) there is a risk the stand will start inching forward. It's just a matter of keeping an eye on it and not dragging the bike one way or another


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,066 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    Iirc which I often don't I struggled with my paddock stand (cups) on the busa as the brake torque arm fouled it or at least made it finnerickity.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭The QuietMan


    Thanks CD & H.

    The photos aren’t the greatest but here are the hooks into cups

    F57-FBEDA-1-A88-425-B-A3-CC-090-C733392-D5.jpg

    92032927-B38-A-4-F29-88-D7-0-FD8-E3-DD32-AC.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭The QuietMan


    With or without the grab rail?

    9-FDB8-C66-9184-4-F2-F-AF6-C-EA493945-E2-FE.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Without grab rail if you won't be using it.
    Hooks are very close to swing arm.
    Will they scratch it?
    They should hang down more.(the one on the chain side anyway.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,066 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    Yeah something wrong there I do not like the look of that.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    H_Lime wrote: »
    Yeah something wrong there I do not like the look of that.

    Back to the cups for the meantime I think.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,066 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    Tbh I don't trust them hooks for two reasons. First is there's scrape potential and second is that design hook seems bloody poor.
    The fully rubberised cups cannot scrape a swinger.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭The QuietMan


    blade1 wrote: »
    Without grab rail if you won't be using it.
    Hooks are very close to swing arm.
    Will they scratch it?
    They should hang down more.(the one on the chain side anyway.

    It’s millimetres from the swing arm


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭The QuietMan


    H_Lime wrote: »
    Tbh I don't trust them hooks for two reasons. First is there's scrape potential and second is that design hook seems bloody poor.
    The fully rubberised cups cannot scrape a swinger.

    Any link to the cups? This area is completely new to me


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭The QuietMan


    She’s back down off the stand now

    3-F670-E99-E304-4-FF9-89-DB-6684-C802868-F.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,066 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    Mine is a micron stand I bought 20 yrs QM. I'd say it will last me out.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭The QuietMan


    H_Lime wrote: »
    Mine is a micron stand I bought 20 yrs QM. I'd say it will last me out.

    Similar to this?

    https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/11532


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    H_Lime wrote: »
    Tbh I don't trust them hooks for two reasons. First is there's scrape potential and second is that design hook seems bloody poor.
    The fully rubberised cups cannot scrape a swinger.

    I think it's the swingarm is the biggest problem here.
    The way it is slanting inwards.
    The hooks normally would be the better method.
    This is how it should be, though on a slightly different hook system.

    IMG-20200423-165043.jpg

    IMG-20200423-165106.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭The QuietMan


    blade1 wrote: »
    I think it's the swingarm is the biggest problem here.
    The way it is slanting inwards.
    The hooks normally would be the better method.
    This is how it should be, though on a slightly different hook system.

    IMG-20200423-165043.jpg

    IMG-20200423-165106.jpg

    That looks straightforward on your bike.

    Would these be a better solution in this case? I take on board what cantdecide says as well

    4-A39-A972-A823-4500-83-E6-B2-B7-C960995-A.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Were the holes for the bobbins there already and you bought bobbins?

    The rubber one u posted would be good for stopping scratches but can be awkward because of your rear brake.
    Especially on a bigger bike.

    Personally I'd try and figure out a bobbin solution but may be more work.

    You could always use 2 axle stands and a metal rod through the swingarm pivot to keep the bike up.
    Put back on the grab rail and hang the bike off the roof :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭The QuietMan


    blade1 wrote: »
    Were the holes for the bobbins there already and you bought bobbins?

    The rubber one u posted would be good for stopping scratches but can be awkward because of your rear brake.
    Especially on a bigger bike.

    Personally I'd try and figure out a bobbin solution but may be more work.

    You could always use 2 axle stands and a metal rod through the swingarm pivot to keep the bike up.

    It came with the bobbins already attached,

    I’m experimenting with the rubber ones at the minute.

    If all else fails I’m looking at an ABBA stand

    Edit:

    I have a pair of bobbins that were intended for the blade, they are slightly wider than what’s already on the busa so swapped them out, will try it after


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Try a couple of washers on each one as well to get them out a little further.


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