Arcade Cocktail Tables Restoration

CathalDublin

should these not go to the 240v side of the block if they are coming from the wall/plug?
If you are putting in 240 into the 110 side of the transformer a lot higher is coming out the opposite side(240)?

Optimus Prime

yeh thats what i was thinking, but they are soldered onto that side of the block? I just screwed them into the psu where they where originally..

unky chop chop

Yeah I think Cathals right.
The 220v coming from the psu should go to the 220v input on the ISO.
And those pink and blue live and neutral wires coming from the 110v output side of the ISO that you attached to the psu should actually be attached to your monitor to power it....I think anyway!

Optimus Prime

unky chop chop wrote: »

Yeah I think Cathals right.
The 220v coming from the psu should go to the 220v input on the ISO.
And those pink and blue live and neutral wires coming from the 110v output side of the ISO that you attached to the psu should actually be attached to your monitor to power it....I think anyway!

That makes total sense, the reason I have them in the psu though is that's where they where when I got this off Mitch. Can I just buy something to replace all this stuff? This old gear is so confusing!

Optimus Prime

Can i just take all that rubbish out and replace it with one of these?

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-230v-to-110v-300w-voltage-converter-vr05f

Stick a 2 pin american plug on the 110v monitor cable plug it into this.

Then plug this thing in and thats that?

KeRbDoG

Note, that you have prob sent 220v into everything thats connected to the 110v wiring in the cab. What else is 110v in it?

unky chop chop

Yeah I'd say that would work a charm.start from the beginning.

You would have two AC plugs though which would piss me off big time
Unless you jumped the 220v coming in to the psu and the step down.
I'd get an arcade ISO step down from online myself. I remember seeing them some where!

Anyway either way you'd be in business, I'd then look at adding the power switch and line filter back into the mix after.

unky chop chop

KeRbDoG wrote: »

Note, that you have prob sent 220v into everything thats connected to the 110v wiring in the cab. What else is 110v in it?

I'd say he's grand...only the monitor was 110v and the other side of the iso and that was disconnected wasn't it.

KeRbDoG

unky chop chop wrote: »

I'd say he's grand...only the monitor was 110v and the other side of the iso and that was disconnected wasn't it.

Cool, I'd not use a transformer that's started to smoke. The isolation material on the coils of wire prob started to melt.

Optimus Prime

quote="KeRbDoG;90342258"]Cool, I'd not use a transformer that's started to smoke. The isolation material on the coils of wire prob started to melt.[/quote]

I had unplugged the monitor and chassis etc from the Iso and psu before I plugged it in in case something went wrong so they should be grand.

Think I'll look at getting one of the new stepdowns online to save hassle.

Optimus Prime

Whats the craic with the power switch and line filter? Do I need another power switch on the inside? What does the line filter do?

Edit :don't say filter the line haha

unky chop chop

You really don't need any of them but since you have them I'd use them. I removed the lot from the cocktail you gave me but I am meaning to put them back.
Line filter just reduces noise from the ac in.
I must also add the power switch wiring back because at the mo I just plug it in to turn it on.
I always find this link really really useful to refer to when trying to get me head around arcade AC wiring.
http://arcadecontrols.com/BBBB/acwiring.html

Optimus Prime

Thats a great link actually, nice well explained guide on the wiring.

Optimus Prime

Well the step down seems to work, stuck an American plug on the monitor power cable, plugged it in and it came on. Only issue now seems to be a mad wobble of the entire screen i cant get rid of. now i only had it on for 15 minutes so far because i had to head off, any ideas what would cause that wobbling? seems to wobble left to right. not major screen scrolling or anything, just a slight wobble.

EDIT: bit or reading online, and it might be the stepdown itself causing the wobble due to interferance with the screen.. hmm..

Yep I was gonna say the transformer,
picture looks nice!

Optimus Prime

Cool, I was thinking of trying to get some sort of metal sheet to cover it to see if that makes a difference.

The monitor is great, no screen burn at all, delighted with it.

o1s1n

That monitor is gorgeous, nice one

Definitely the step down causing interference. It's too close to it. I had interference on both monitors there recently and it was just the cabs being too close together. Had to move them apart.

Can you not just keep the step down external and extend the wiring?

Optimus Prime

Yeh i could do that alright, would be pretty easy just to extend the wire, just means id have a big box sitting around the floor. ideally id like to keep it inside but i guess it wouldn't be the end of the world if i couldn't!

o1s1n

Those ones aren't too big, can hide it underneath

I think they generate a bit of heat. I haven't noticed too much with my ones, but probably best to not keep it in an enclosed space. Be awful if it burst into flames and took the whole cab with it :eek:

The Airlink one I got is brilliant and powers two cabs, but it's almost twice the size as the one you're using.

Can see it down the side of the SNK cab in this pic.

If you're ever running a pair of cabs beside each other that need the same voltage definitely think of getting one of these.

Optimus Prime

Do you know what "size" wire i need to extend that? its 110v going along it, need to buy some.

3 x 2.5mm flex

Optimus Prime

can i just cut an extension chord i have at home and use that or does it have to be a certain gauge or whatever for 110v?

yea just cut that,
The size of the cable has nothing (well kinda) to do with the voltage.
Its all about how much current the cable can handle.
The socket circuits in your house are wired in 2.5mm cable and the lights 1.5mm.
So your sockets will be fused at 20amps and the lights at 10amps at the fusebox.
The cable can handle more than 20amps,bout 25/27 for the 2.5mm and half that for the 1.5mm
This means that your breaker/fuse will go before the cable goes on fire.

You could use a lighter cable like a 3 x 1.5 mm but make sure its fused correctly at the socket.

Optimus Prime

Cool, i just cut an extension cable so! Thanks a lot!

unky chop chop

Nice one, monitor looks great!.May be the same type I got of Mitch...chungwa is the tube make. Really sharp vivid pic on it.

Mitchomagic

Did you connect the degas button? Also picked up a few more monitors 220v if you wanted to change it

Optimus Prime

Yep the degauss is working on it, i think it is just interference, im going to move the power thing away from the screen and see if it makes a difference first. if it doesnt ill give you a shout for a monitor. cheers

Optimus Prime

another quick question, im worried a bit (maybe wrongly) about earthing the monitor.

Right now the monitor is wired up as follows.

RGBVH from the monitor to the jamma harness to a 60-1board which is powered with a harddrive PSU. The only other things in the jamma harness is buttons\joysticks wired up, there is no power from an arcade psu wired to the harness.

The monitor is powered with a 2wire cable with a 2 prong american plug, into the stepdown, with a 3prong normal plug on the other end powering that.

Do i need to earth that monitor in any other way or will that be ok? im worried because the 2wires with the american 2 prong plug doesnt have a ground wire like our plugs do..

The Last Bandit

Did the monitor originally have an isolation transformer ? It may have a hot chassis so grounding it would be very bad..

Deffo worth doing,
you might get picture problems without and small shocks!

edit!
Just seen bandits post.
Does the monitor have a spot for an earth?