Today I did something to my bike thread...

rollingscone

triggermortis wrote: »

Pretty much done now. Just need to fit both gear cables and the chain. Mudguards also to go on and new lights (when they arrive).
I'll swap the cadence and speed sensors off of the commuter bike and probably lose my mind getting them to pair with my Garmin...

Aren't they already paired with it?

I loaned a colleague my winter roadbike for the Great Dublin Bike ride and my Garmin kept asking to switch to sensors on his bike ;-)

triggermortis

rollingscone wrote: »

Aren't they already paired with it?

I loaned a colleague my winter roadbike for the Great Dublin Bike ride and my Garmin kept asking to switch to sensors on his bike ;-)

They were but my Garmin has forgot about them. I think it's also lost my speed sensor on the good bike for some reason. All I know is it will give me a pain in the hoop to set up

triggermortis

https://ibb.co/jYKzkm

99% finished. Still got to swap the cadence and speed sensors over. Not too sure about the yellow bottle cages, might swap them out for black ones.
Also I can't get the gears to shift as well as I'd like but I suspect the hangar isn't as straight as it needs to be. I moved it as much as I could but I think it needs replacing.

Alanstrainor

Last night at 11pm I decided to check the bike before bed. On Friday I had come out to a flat tyre after work, when removing the valve cap I saw that the valve was loose. Tightened, bumped to 60psi or so and off I went. Made it home, no bother. Pumped to 120psi when I got back and it seemed fine. Checked last night and it was flat again, shoite.

This is my second puncture on my Schwalbe Durano Double Defense in about 2000km. A tiny piece of embedded glass did it. Not too pleased with that so I've popped on a spare new GP4000II. I had to use this guys technique to get the bloody thing on. Works well, no levers needed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4

iwillhtfu

I had the tyre on with my levers and was out for a spin before he had his second toe strap on

Alanstrainor

iwillhtfu wrote: »

I had the tyre on with my levers and was out for a spin before he had his second toe strap on

Main point is pushing the bead to the center of the wheel, no need for straps at all. Only took a minute or two to get the tyre on. I had spent way way more time attempting to get the new gp4000 on with brute force and levers. The technique works really well.

Borderfox

Tubeless rims and a pita, Id be quicker than him with the heel of my hand though

Fighting Tao

New chain, cassette and brake pads. First time doing any of it. Pushed the chain pin through too far. When I broke off the bit I had to try and push it back. It’s flush now but not sure I trust it!

Brake pads were the worst. A little fiddly. Won't get to try the bike tomorrow but might take it to work on monday instead of my commuter.

triggermortis

Fighting Tao wrote: »

Brake pads were the worst. A little fiddly. Won't get to try the bike tomorrow but might take it to work on monday instead of my commuter.

Did you just change just the block or the whole brake pad? If you changed the whole thing, you do know that they can be put in the wrong way round? If there is a small screw to release the block and this needs to be at the rear side of the pad (ie when viewed from the side, the screw is at the back). If you have it at the front and it loosens, the pad can be thrown out of its housing when you brake, and you end up with no brakes!

Fighting Tao

triggermortis wrote: »

Did you just change just the block or the whole brake pad? If you changed the whole thing, you do know that they can be put in the wrong way round? If there is a small screw to release the block and this needs to be at the rear side of the pad (ie when viewed from the side, the screw is at the back). If you have it at the front and it loosens, the pad can be thrown out of its housing when you brake, and you end up with no brakes!

I replaced the block only. It’s quite a simple process. The only issue was getting the new block into the shoe. It was a tight fit but they are working a treat now.

Cee-Jay-Cee

Fighting Tao wrote: »

I replaced the block only. It’s quite a simple process. The only issue was getting the new block into the shoe. It was a tight fit but they are working a treat now.

Small drop of oil/lube works wonders getting them to slide in/out.

Macy0161

New shorter stem on the commuter.

dahat

Have a set of Fulcrum Quattro's that are really rough, rear wheel hub is fooked but front I reckon I can save so I tried to grease the bearings today.
As I'm not the best at bike maintenance I had a look around YouTube which helped but couldn't get the actual bearings out to clean them properly so just sprayed some lube in to wash it out then applied grease to what I could get at.

The wheel doesn't seem any better so it's a wasted hour and wheel is returned to hanging in the shed...

secman

dahat wrote: »

Have a set of Fulcrum Quattro's that are really rough, rear wheel hub is fooked but front I reckon I can save so I tried to grease the bearings today.
As I'm not the best at bike maintenance I had a look around YouTube which helped but couldn't get the actual bearings out to clean them properly so just sprayed some lube in to wash it out then applied grease to what I could get at.

The wheel doesn't seem any better so it's a wasted hour and wheel is returned to hanging in the shed...

Not really a wasted hour, maybe try doing them again, practicing on a fooked wheel makes sense , perfect your skills for when you need to sort a good wheel

ford2600

A very wide front wheel for a bit of off road

hesker

Made some brackets to give more clearance between back tyre and close fitting mudguards. They work perfectly and cost me nothing.

Borderfox

New stem and saddle on the winter bike

triggermortis

Finally got around to adjusting my front mech on the winter bike so it no longer throws the chain off when I change up to the big ring. Mech wasn't properly aligned. Still need to get new batteries and fit garmin sensors...

arybvtcw0eolkf

Today I done nothing to my bike, lol.

Well, I took it out yesterday and noticed a buckle. Checked it and found two broken spokes, went into Jimmy's bike shop in Portmarnock to buy two spokes to replace them at home.

'Sure we'll do that for a score', happy days ~ I don't have to get my hands dirty today and the rim is true as brand new

Alanstrainor

I'm usually pretty good at keeping up on my basic bike maintenance, but I let slip for 3 or more weeks. So this evening I thoroughly cleaned the chain and gears with some degreaser. Then oiled everything, chain, gears, shifters etc. The amount of grime that came off it was unreal. Gritted and salty roads are a nightmare.

Boscoirl

New chain in my bike.

Thank god for the quick release link. Put it on arseways first time round!

nilhg

My rear SKS chromoplastic developed a major crack, a liberal application of duct tape will hopefully see me through the festive season till I get some more

brownian

Yesterday I took my rear hub to bits, as part of investigation of why my cassette lock-ring was rubbing against my rear drop-out. This on the pretty Extralite Cyber-Rear hub in the middle of a pair of hand-builts from 2015.

A few little round metal bits fell out, but I couldn't see from where, and I didn't worry too much. I gave it all a good clean and put it back together, then went for a spin. 8 km in, the cassette is wandering in and out, even though the lockring is well tight. Took it to the Bikerack, where Al shows me that one of the hub bearings is entirely disintegrated (that'll be those wee round bits, so) - shell and all just gone. Left the wheel there; Al lent me a wheel to get me home.

The moral - read your hub manual. Clean and grease your bearings every once in a while (mine were neglected for 2 years and maybe 9,000 km) - it's easy enough to do. If you don't want to do this, don't buy Extralite hubs, but instead get some no-maintenance tractor hub instead. Especially if you use them in winter too.

The up-side - for a few euros, Bikerack Al fitted new bearings throughout. I gave him the matching front wheel to do today, so I'll have a good-as-new set of hubs by the weekend.

Alanstrainor

I replaced the pads on my hydraulic discs yesterday. It was a first for me and it went reasonably well. The process was simple really, nothing complicated at all, although I have changed the brakes on my car so it was pretty similar to that. My first set of pads lasted me around 2.5k km which is pretty good going, although I did keep them too long, they were very worn when I had the old ones out. That should mean that I need to replace my pads twice a year or so. Not too bad. The disc was in decent condition, but I'd say I'll replace them at the next pad change.

LollipopJimmy

I had switched a set of Mavic wheels onto my new bike and put the Syncros wheels over onto the aluminium bike, had to swap cassettes etc and all went well. Indexed the gears on the alu bike without issue.

On the carbon bike things didn't go as well, indexed the rear and all was well but the front wasn't shifting well - obviously not down to the wheels and when working on this the cable hit the tyre, end cap came off and it frayed every. Gah.

I'm out on the bike tomorrow evening and with college last night and tonight I'd no time to get a cable and fit it myself so dropped it in to Giant on the Long Mile Road who did a 'Gear Service' €36 including the cable. The chain was scrubbed - there's been a greasy type lube on it when I got it off the previous owner (well maintained but not what I like) so I'm happy now and it's shifting like a dream

tonytiger81

Red Wine + Ebay = n+1. Picked this up last week. Fitted wider bars, bar tape and a pair of 'get me going' wheels. Has me feeling like the King Lion. In time I might do a team spec replica. Time for a glass of wine

magicbastarder

are secondhand spinergys easy to come by?

tonytiger81

In a word....no

brownian

Got a 'tyrekey' thing for easier changing of punctures...mainly for the wife('s bike). tyrekey.com, of course.

TBH, it's not at all impressive for removing tyres (Conti 4000s on narrow road rims) - hard to get the 'dual groove' bit under the bead, and nearly impossible to twist, which is meant to help get the tyre off.

But, it IS impressive in getting the last six inches of tyre back onto the rim. Very bish-bash-bosh, no power or strong hands needed, no scope to pinch the tube. So probably worth it, for that, especially for people who don't want to learn the tricks of 'getting the bead into the bottom of the rim, etc etc'.

07Lapierre

Weepsie wrote: »

Old ones are shot, but will be thrown in a spares box

Their shot! Let them go!