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Hayes strainer

  • 28-03-2012 9:29pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 429 ✭✭


    Howya lads.

    Does anyone know where a fella could buy a Hayes wire strainer right quick? I'm under a small bit of pressure for it. Thanks.


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,676 ✭✭✭kay 9


    Connact gold have them I think or most hardware stores seem to stock them too.
    http://www.agridirect.ie/index.php/battery-fencers/fencing-accesories/hayes-wire-strainers.html <---- this crowd have them also if you fancy online purchase. Could be next day delivery. Didn;t check postage details.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,753 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    where are you?

    Farm relief services should have them for sale with the fencing stuff. I think its stradbally farm services that import them

    http://www.stradballyfarmservices.com/pel/pel_fencing_tools.html

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 429 ✭✭foxylock


    Thanks for that lads I'm in south tipp. There's an frs in cahir might be worth a shot.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭MfMan


    foxylock wrote: »
    Thanks for that lads I'm in south tipp. There's an frs in cahir might be worth a shot.

    The likes of Arrabawn co-op probably stock them; I'm sure Mullahone would have them also.

    No matter how much I read the literature or study online postings, I still can't figure out fully how they work and if they're effective. Are they a one-man job? For fencing recently, I have a cable-puller, a ratchet-type job that I anchor to the tractor, put a loop in the wire, slip it through the hook on the puller and strain away. Does the job reasonably well.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    How do lads strain sheep wire with them?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,329 ✭✭✭redzerologhlen


    Muckit wrote: »
    How do lads strain sheep wire with them?

    Weave a crow bar in through the sheep wire and put the strainer onto the middle of the crow bar and the other end onto the tractor. The couple of time we put up sheep wire that was the way we did it. There might be a better way to do it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 429 ✭✭foxylock


    Well lads after a lot of phone calls and a bit of sweatin I finally tracked one down today in Stradbally farm services, I felt it was a bit pricey at 180 Euro but the pressure is on this weekend to get a badly needed fence erected before I move the ewes. Gonna have a fair crack off it tomorrow, as regards how good it is with sheep wire I'll keep ye posted. It could be a baptism of fire with me new fancy strainer goin flyin across the mountain and the wise old man beside me noddding his head with a knowing smile thinking of all the posts that 180 Euro would have bought. Sure ya have to try don't ya!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 344 ✭✭FREDNISMO


    That sounds a little pricey, I have seen them in my local co-op for 70e, genuine Hayes strainers at that, unless there is a few different models and the pair that I saw were the base model


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 453 ✭✭gazahayes


    They have them in the co-op near me (north tipp) for €90 last time i was looking for one only wanted the chain as it was lost but it'd cost the same.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 429 ✭✭foxylock


    FREDNISMO wrote: »
    That sounds a little pricey, I have seen them in my local co-op for 70e, genuine Hayes strainers at that, unless there is a few different models and the pair that I saw were the base model

    No pretty standard model as far as I know, everyone I was talking to was on about this price hike, but now as I type this I'm beginning to notice that my ass is a little sore!!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1 Dodge2014


    This place is 85e plus vat for the Hayes Wire Strainer H300

    http://merchant.iitc.ie/detail.asp?p=137&m=26


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,543 ✭✭✭Conmaicne Mara


    Dodge2014 wrote: »
    This place is 85e plus vat for the Hayes Wire Strainer H300

    http://merchant.iitc.ie/detail.asp?p=137&m=26

    Was just looking at the handlamps on there, some of them are antiques!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 47 screcrow




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,083 ✭✭✭bogman_bass


    anybody use gripples?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,278 ✭✭✭frazzledhome


    anybody use gripples?

    For repairs and only if in a hurry. They become the weakest part of the fence. Often glad of one in a rush though


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,954 ✭✭✭C0N0R


    For repairs and only if in a hurry. They become the weakest part of the fence. Often glad of one in a rush though

    Figure of eight knot best job if you have the wire for it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,278 ✭✭✭frazzledhome


    C0N0R wrote: »
    Figure of eight knot best job if you have the wire for it

    Yea green steel hi tensile, tighten till you can stand on it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 950 ✭✭✭ellewood


    For repairs and only if in a hurry. They become the weakest part of the fence. Often glad of one in a rush though

    Dont know how id manage without me gripple machine and me gripples - repaired 2 fields this evening in jig time with no cursing
    Chain strainer is grand only to get the fecker off the wire when tension on it
    Best yoke i ever bought the gripple
    strainer
    I just tie off each side of gripple once tught then it cant loosen


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,954 ✭✭✭C0N0R


    Yea green steel hi tensile, tighten till you can stand on it!

    Na I like to be able to drive the motorbike over me fences, saves opening gates!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,536 ✭✭✭trixi2011


    C0N0R wrote: »
    Na I like to be able to drive the motorbike over me fences, saves opening gates!
    Was just going to say that :D


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,493 ✭✭✭Greengrass1


    Yea green steel hi tensile, tighten till you can stand on it!

    Father here likes that soft wire that he can manage.
    Curse of a yoke cause it breaks if tightened too tight.
    I learned how to do all the proper knits and all.
    Fence makes a place when its done really well


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭MfMan


    For repairs and only if in a hurry. They become the weakest part of the fence. Often glad of one in a rush though

    Can you install a gripple without cutting the wire, or does it have to be snipped with the loose strands fed into either end?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 831 ✭✭✭satstheway


    Used that aluminum elec fence wire here on a strip last year. It was always singing in the wind but not too tight to break but it ate through the insulation on my pigtales. What do I do wrong?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,536 ✭✭✭trixi2011


    satstheway wrote: »
    Used that aluminum elec fence wire here on a strip last year. It was always singing in the wind but not too tight to break but it ate through the insulation on my pigtales. What do I do wrong?
    Pig tails aren't really designed for carrying wire more so designed for polly wire the stuff like string. May also be **** pigtails they all end up like that after a few years but have noticed that some cheap one I bought this year are fecked already


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,783 ✭✭✭paddysdream


    anybody use gripples?

    Use them all the time.The cost of them is easily saved in time if you try to tie the wire PROPERLY.Tying 8 strands of sheepwire is a curse of a slow job.

    To pull sheepwire do not use a hayes type puller.Just get a 3ft lenght of angle,weld on a frame to latch a chain onto,drill 8 holes corresponding with the strands on the sheepwire and pull with the tractor.You run the ends of the sheepwire through the holes and place gripples on them to hold it.Never seen them to slip even with a good pull on 300 or 400m.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 831 ✭✭✭satstheway


    These the gold foot pigtales. They ain't cheap.
    Galv tying wire used much tighter for years no problem. But this aluminum stuff vibrates at a frequency that just cut through the insulation.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,453 ✭✭✭Zr105


    MfMan wrote: »
    Can you install a gripple without cutting the wire, or does it have to be snipped with the loose strands fed into either end?

    You can get a special gripple lad that has 2 sort of hooks on one end of it, there spose to be for tying off at the end, you loop wire around stake, clip it onto the wire and then run the end through it

    This lad here:

    http://www.gripple.com/us/products/catalogue/t-clip.html


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,783 ✭✭✭paddysdream


    For repairs and only if in a hurry. They become the weakest part of the fence. Often glad of one in a rush though

    Nothing wrong with gripples.Will hold when pulled with 200hp tractor straining upwards of 400m of wire and very rarely seen one slip.Also if used in a sheep wire fence allows you to tighten the wire at a later stage with a gripple pullers(shouldn't have to but ?).

    How else could you strain the middle of a fence where you cannot pull from either end?Use a clamp type chain pullers,then join and strain the middle 10 ft or so with gripple and pullers and then release the clamp pullers.Works a treat and you have a seriously tight fence.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,278 ✭✭✭frazzledhome


    I must be doing wrong. If a wire breaks here its usually the gripple that gives. I only use for repairs when in a rush.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,844 ✭✭✭49801


    Father here likes that soft wire that he can manage.
    Curse of a yoke cause it breaks if tightened too tight.
    I learned how to do all the proper knits and all.
    Fence makes a place when its done really well

    All soft wire here. Much easier to work with. But I agree about it breaking when over tightened :mad:
    If I could learn to work the high tensile stuff I'd prefer to use it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,453 ✭✭✭Zr105


    MfMan wrote: »
    The likes of Arrabawn co-op probably stock them; I'm sure Mullahone would have them also.

    No matter how much I read the literature or study online postings, I still can't figure out fully how they work and if they're effective. Are they a one-man job? For fencing recently, I have a cable-puller, a ratchet-type job that I anchor to the tractor, put a loop in the wire, slip it through the hook on the puller and strain away. Does the job reasonably well.

    Took a pic for you yest, shows the jaw that you pass the wire through, open, then when you pull on it it closes and grips the wire.
    Set up the handle end and the chain end then by working the handle you "walk" up the chain which pulls it tight! Very easy to use, well after the first time and you get a bit more used to it anyways!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,580 ✭✭✭Mad4simmental


    Zr105 wrote: »
    Took a pic for you yest, shows the jaw that you pass the wire through, open, then when you pull on it it closes and grips the wire.
    Set up the handle end and the chain end then by working the handle you "walk" up the chain which pulls it tight! Very easy to use, well after the first time and you get a bit more used to it anyways!

    We have one here it must be 20 years old. The best thing around the place.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,453 ✭✭✭Zr105


    We have one here it must be 20 years old. The best thing around the place.

    Have an old b**ls of a one ourselves, has 2 S shaped plates on each end that lock around the wire when ever you eventually get them in the right set up... Is awful rough on the wire compared to the newer type tho, planning on getting proper one soon tho and firing old one into the scrap, but can get a loan of the one i took pic of for the time being if needed!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    tighten till you can stand on it!

    Your spacing your stakes too close together :-)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    49801 wrote: »
    All soft wire here. Much easier to work with. But I agree about it breaking when over tightened :mad:
    If I could learn to work the high tensile stuff I'd prefer to use it.

    Nothing wrong with using mild steel tying wire for electric fencing. You don't have to pull the sh*t out of electric fence wire. It only has to carry the current and not be hitting the ground! It's a psychological barrier not a physical one like a barbed wire and/or sheep wire fence.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 947 ✭✭✭leoch


    How far up of the ground do u keep the sheep wire and any other useful tips on tightening and joining rolls together i hate working with sheep wire cause I m no good at it a few tips from ye will help and also when u are putting a run or 2 of barb above the sheep wire do u put it on and tighten it at the same time or willl this upset the sheepwire u have just tightened


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,264 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    You really need to tighten the top row of (barbed) wire first, cause it has more leverage , being higher up the post. Not easy to do in practice, and still have a nice even spacing above the sheep wire . All depends what you are straining to, big strainer posts, trees, etc, or lighter posts. Keep the sheep wire close to the ground, an inch or so, cause the buggers will work away at scraping under them. You can cut a piece of holly or thorn or something, and "notch" it with the chainsaw and use it like a tent peg to pull down the bottom row if there is a slight hollow somewhere.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Firstly have your strainers drove well and make sure they are solid. The strength and stability of fence rests on the strainers. They need to be mechanically driven. Stakes in between just hold the wire so staples should not be driven home.

    I strain sheep wire with two hayes strainers on the second from top and second from bottom row. Then when l've tied off at strainer l use my foot to hold the wire to the ground. You need to staple the bottom two rows on each stake, then every second one is enough. I've heard of some lads using a single row of barbed wire or ht wire along the bottom to save sheep wire rusting, then the sheep wire over this.

    But whatever way you do it you need to make sure a ewe or ram can't put it's head in under and force the wire up.

    Then put on top barbed wire strands. You need to keep the bottom strand 3-4" from sheep wire. Again to stop cattle sticking head out between the two. The spacing between the two barbed wire strands not as important.

    With the hayes strainer l made up a short length of rope that I make a running knot in and loop over strainer. I then place last link of chain in claw, pull wire hand tight and attach clamp to wire. This way you have the fulk length of chain to pull. If you put on wire first you can run out of chain to pull off , very frustrating!

    Hope this is of some help. Like anything the more you do the better you get at it. :-)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,783 ✭✭✭paddysdream


    leoch wrote: »
    How far up of the ground do u keep the sheep wire and any other useful tips on tightening and joining rolls together i hate working with sheep wire cause I m no good at it a few tips from ye will help and also when u are putting a run or 2 of barb above the sheep wire do u put it on and tighten it at the same time or willl this upset the sheepwire u have just tightened

    Keep sheep wire 3 inches or more off the ground and run a strand of plain halfway's between the bottom of the sheepwire and the ground.
    Usually use the plain wire for a line to drive the stakes and when the sheep wire,barbed etc is on then use it as the bottom strand.

    Join the sheepwire with gripple's.Most rolls of ht. sheepwire come with these now or you can buy bags of them.You can tie it together but unless you do it right it looks sh..e and is slow.

    Think I put up a picture of a strainer to pull sheepwire.

    Barbed or plain ,when strained after sheep wire,can loosen it if strainers are not down right and propped correctly.Usually leave the end strainers with a tiny lie back to allow for the strain to straighten them.Not really necessary but looks better.
    2 strands of barbed wire over sheepwire puts a fair strain on the end posts.Very important to prop them correctly.


    Normally keep the barbed about 4 inches per strand over the sheepwire, ie the head of a claw hammer is handy measure


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    You really need to tighten the top row of (barbed) wire first, cause it has more leverage , being higher up the post. Not easy to do in practice.

    I see your logic but this wouldn't be best practice. Easy forget about the top strand when your bending down then stick your head up and catch yourself. Eyes are handy to have.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,920 ✭✭✭freedominacup


    We have one here it must be 20 years old. The best thing around the place.

    We have one here my grandfather bought. We lost it in 2012 and had to but a new one last year before turnout. Oul boy found the old one in a place neither of us remembered doing anything with fencing for ages. Have two of them now. The jaws on the old one are a bit shook but a small vise grip does the job clamped onto the wire on the chain side.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,580 ✭✭✭Mad4simmental


    We have one here my grandfather bought. We lost it in 2012 and had to but a new one last year before turnout. Oul boy found the old one in a place neither of us remembered doing anything with fencing for ages. Have two of them now. The jaws on the old one are a bit shook but a small vise grip does the job clamped onto the wire on the chain side.

    If there is one thing better than one of those pullers around its having two of them!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 577 ✭✭✭gerryirl


    anybody use gripples?

    same as that.. thinking of getting one but don't know much about them


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,447 ✭✭✭Never wrestle with pigs


    Are these as good ? Fraction of the cost.
    I need one but wondering has anyone got this one?

    https://www.agridirect.ie/product/smooth-grip-wire-strainer


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,920 ✭✭✭freedominacup


    Are these as good ? Fraction of the cost.
    I need one but wondering has anyone got this one?

    https://www.agridirect.ie/product/smooth-grip-wire-strainer

    I don't know but if you mind a Hayes strainer your grandchildren will still be using it. The old one here was bought in the early seventies.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,735 ✭✭✭lakill Farm


    I don't know but if you mind a Hayes strainer your grandchildren will still be using it. The old one here was bought in the early seventies.

    What price is a Hayes strainer ?

    Looking for one myself. Brother in law was her last week putting up a fence for me and has one. It’s on the go 25 years and they are full time fencing. Said he must get a new one


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 495 ✭✭Attie


    Lakill used to have one until a neighbour relived me of it jcuker.
    Now use matbro on the boom just as handy.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,123 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Are these ratchet strainers not handier? Just drill a hole in the strainer post. You can open them and re-tension again. No hassle.

    db_Ratchet.image?id=26235&t=4&m=1&height=400&width=500&crop=false&fit=true


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,633 ✭✭✭✭Buford T. Justice XIX


    Are these ratchet strainers not handier? Just drill a hole in the strainer post. You can open them and re-tension again. No hassle.

    db_Ratchet.image?id=26235&t=4&m=1&height=400&width=500&crop=false&fit=true
    Better job again...
    Ratchet_Strainer_Insulated.jpgNo drilling the post at all, just attach the insulated end to the strainer and pull the wire through the holes and strain the wire with a few turns of a spanner.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,447 ✭✭✭Never wrestle with pigs


    They are grand but the puller is better. Had a Hayes here for over 30 years. It went walk about. I bought that one on agriland so I'll let you know how it goes.


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