.17 problem

Thomas Drennan

Hi lades i have being shooting the 17 for a number years i had a fixed 6 power 38 bell weaver scope scope it was a dream to shoot spot on every time, so i decided to purches a higher powdered scope for longer shots i now have a leupold 4 and a half x 14 x50 bone & crocket
with sports match mounts but cant keep the zero it keeps shifting i was thinking the mounts but i was told they would be fine no recoile from the 17 any ideas

garv123

Thomas Drennan wrote: »

Hi lades i have being shooting the 17 for a number years i had a fixed 6 power 38 bell weaver scope scope it was a dream to shoot spot on every time, so i decided to purches a higher powdered scope for longer shots i now have a leupold 4 and a half x 14 x50 bone & crocket
with sports match mounts but cant keep the zero it keeps shifting i was thinking the mounts but i was told they would be fine no recoile from the 17 any ideas

Is it a new scope or second hand and are you sure everything is nice and tight?

kildare.17hmr

Something has to loose lad. Take the scope and mounts off and start again

rabbit assassin

Either the mounts are loose on the rail of the gun or they arent holding the scope tube tight or..... its a dodgey scope. Can even happen to a good make of scope. Had a brand new swarovski scope on the .243 a good few years back and it wouldnt hold the zero at all turns out it was just a bad scope. Got it replaced by exact same make and model and its still working fine !! Can just happen sometimes !

Thomas Drennan

I had it mounted in the gun shop where i got the mounts il try opening it up and start over again thanks for that

garv123

Thomas Drennan wrote: »

I had it mounted in the gun shop where i got the mounts il try opening it up and start over again thanks for that

I had mine mounted in the RFD where i got the mounts too and the front mount was only catching 1/4 of the dovetail.:rolleyes:

kildare.17hmr

Same as garv iv seen some shoddy work come out of dealers too. My rifle was aparently zeroed when i got it, he shot a nice 5 shot group less than an inch. Lucky for me i checked it when i got it, not only did it miss the a4 sheet it also missed the box it was stuck to! Better off doing these things right yourself imo

garv123

kildare.17hmr wrote: »

Same as garv iv seen some shoddy work come out of dealers too. My rifle was aparently zeroed when i got it, he shot a nice 5 shot group less than an inch. Lucky for me i checked it when i got it, not only did it miss the a4 sheet it also missed the box it was stuck to! Better off doing these things right yourself imo

When i got mine off spunk it missed the sheet of paper at less than 50 yards.
No wonder he never hit nothing with it :pac::pac:

4200fps

I'd a problem like this and 60 rounds was fired through it and was sent back to the dealer,he said it was ok to him as i got it silenced through him as he would have had to break gun down to get barrel off. Anyways no joy ever since,wouldn't hit a 4 inch target @100yards! So last thing i could think of was to flog it thats why i had my T8 for sale on this. I brought the rifle to a different dealer for a trade in and I asked him to take the sight off for me and while he was undoing it he dam mount wouldn't open to easily and it wasnt closed/tightend right. The other came of with ease and he said to me how in hell were you shooting straight with that. He put the mount back on the dovetail rail and it wouldn't tighten as it was rung!:mad:
So it pays to bring a gun to a good gunsmith/dealer when your getting a mod on it. Keep away from Ballymahon direction i'll not mention the dealers name but by God he's one waste of space who cost me a fortune and i was afraid it was sight or crowning of barrel that may be at fault. Only one mount was securing the sight thats why i didn't cop it before hand. I've no rifle now till my licence comes for new rifle :mad:

Thomas Drennan

One last question my mounts are dove tail not a rail do i tighten to the rifle first or to the scope first or is it done together slowely

dwighet

rifle first mate...
When tightening your rings to the scope tighten them in a criss cross pattern a little bit on each screw at a time

Cass

Here is a helpful process i use for mounting a scope, and zeroing.

Ezridax wrote:

If installing the scope the quick way would be to place the rifle in a gun clamp or very steady front rest and back bag. Place a spirit level on a flat section of the rifle. If none can be got or trusted take the rings apart and screw on the bottom section of the rings leaving the top piece of. Tighten these down. Now place a level across these rings and straighten the rifle. Once your happy, place the scope into the rings and place the top section of the rings on the bootom section over the scope and screw in the screws but DO NOT tighten.

Have a heavy string/line hanging from the ceiling of your hall (at the end of the hall). Weigh it down if necessary. This will give you a dead straight vertical line. Have the rifle pointing towards the string and adjust the position of the scope forward and back in the rings until your eye relief is good (that there is no black when you look into the scope) Twist/turn the scope until the vertical line of the crosshair tallies with the string/line hanging in your hall. Once happy tighten the screws on the rings but do so in an alternating fashion as if you tighten one side fully it will twist the scope in the rings.

Problem i find with some lads is even though the crosshairs are perfectly straight everyone holds the rifle at a slight cant and so when they put it to their eye they think the crosshair is leaning. Its not. Resist the temptation to adjust it as canting the crosshair to suit your hold will mean any clicking to zero the scope will result in angled adjustments rather than perfectly up/down or left/right adjustments.
Go to a range or find a fixed spot at home. Somewhere around the 50yd mark is grand. Have the elevation of your scope trned down to zero. Have the windage adjustments centralised. As in if there is 50 minutes (moa) of adjustment have it set for 25moa. Have the bolt removed and with the rifle unclamped adjust the rifle until you can see the target down the barrel. The muzzle of the gun will appear as a circle and must sit perfectly "central" in the circle created by the breach. Once this is done make sure the target is central in the circles created by the muzzle and breach. Have the rifle reclamped making sure the target is still central in the bore/barrel. Now without moving the rifle look through the scope and see where the crosshairs are in relation to the target. Adjust the crosshairs up to and left/right until they meet the target. Now once more check the bore/barrel sight and scope sight. If you are happy both are pointing at the same target time to replace the bolt and fire a shot (this is why i recommen doing this at a range). Find where the shot impacted. Measure the distance from your point of impact to the target bull and adjust your scope as necessary. gain fire another shot. You should be either in or very close to the bull. Make one more adjustment if you are not in the bull and fire one more round. You should be zeroed at this point

Also here is an indepth explanation of how to bore sight a rifle;

Ezridax wrote:

Open rings and remove scope. Check ring bases are securely fixed to rifle/rail.Place scope back into ring bases. Check for eye relief. Place the top piece of the rings back on and loosely screw down. Do not tighten yet. Once again check your eye relief. Use either sprit levels or the piece of string method to line up the crosshairs on your scope (or whatever works for you). Without moving the scope tighten down all screws. Now your scope is back on and ready to be sighted in.

Turn the clicks on the scope (elevation) down to the lowest setting. Now turn the clicks on your windage adjustment all the way left (or right). Now turn it in the other direction while keeping count of the mintes/clicks. If its (for talks sake) 50 moa turn it back 25. Now your windage is centralised. Place the rifle in a clamp and check its level. When you peer down the barrel make sure the circle made by the muzzle is central in the circle made by the breach.



Move the rifle (not your head) until the target (at least 2ft x 1.5ft with concentric circles)



can be seen . Now keep the target in view through the barrel while trying to keep both "circles" central. Once you think you have the target in the barrel and all aspects centralised and secured, reclamp the rifle again making sure nothing moves. Now look through the scope and see where your crosshairs are in relation to the target. Turn up your elevation turret until you are approx. level with where you have sighted the barrel. Go between the barrel sight and scope and try to narrow down the difference in "point of impact". Adjust elevation and windage as appropriate.

Bolt in and load a round. Steady yourself and fire. Check your point of impact. Adjust your scope the necessary clicks to compesate for wind drift and high or low impact. Your scope is probably .25" click value at 100yds so don't forget you'll have half that movement at 50yds. So if you are 2" out it will take 16 clicks to move the 2" rather than the 8 clicks at 100yds. Don't forget that this is scope movement, as in straight line of sight. The trajectory of the bullet being used will determine whether the full amount of clicks is needed or if more are. Anyway load a second round after adjusting the scope and fire. You should be very close if not in the bull. Adjust scope again if necessary. Load and fire a third round. this one should be in the bull (weather and shooter permitting).

Make note of the turret markings and record them as your 50 yd zero. Now move to 100yds. Fresh target. Without adjusting the scope fire at the 100yd target. Take note of the bullet drop and adjust your scope accordingly to compensate. Fire another 2 or 3 rounds to establish a group. When you are happy with your group, record the turret markings and if possible zero the turrets and keep as your 100 yd zero. You can then move to 200 and 300 if you want. Fire and adjust the scope. Record the bullet drop and click value to compensate ans voila you have your drop chart started.

Of course you could always go for a bore sighter/ laser guide and cut out half the crap i just wrote. Whatever works for you. If you find when firing at the 50 or 100yd targets that the rifle cannot keep a group or still will not hit paper then i'm afraid it may be a bit more serious than just needing to be rezeroed. At all stages keep checking screws and making sure all items are tight.

Hope this is of some help.

I have used both methods throughout all my guns/shooting, and they have yet to let me down.