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Laser bore sight

  • 24-12-2011 8:00pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 257 ✭✭


    Just got to thinking there today, Im sure everyone has seen those laser bore sighters.

    Well could you do the same thing with a regular old laser pointers you see kids playing with? Just take the bolt out of the rifle and hold the laser very steady. Actually youd probably have to get someone else to hold the laser.... while you dial in.

    Anyone ever try this? Or anyone with a laser fancy trying this and reporting back?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 766 ✭✭✭Norwayviking


    Gonzor wrote: »
    Just got to thinking there today, Im sure everyone has seen those laser bore sighters.

    Well could you do the same thing with a regular old laser pointers you see kids playing with? Just take the bolt out of the rifle and hold the laser very steady. Actually youd probably have to get someone else to hold the laser.... while you dial in.

    Anyone ever try this? Or anyone with a laser fancy trying this and reporting back?

    I just to have one,but to be honest i went back to the old way and sight it trough the bore instead.
    Works the same way.;):D:D


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,697 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Wouldn't work.

    You would need the laser pointer to be perfectly positioned to go down the bore line and exit the muzzle both centrally, and straight.

    You can buy laser pointer in the caliber of you rifle. So if you have a .308 you buy the .308 pointer, in the shape of a .308 round, turn in on and "load" it into the rifle. Not perfect either, but a much better option than a kids pointer.
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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 257 ✭✭Gonzor


    Ezridax wrote: »
    You would need the laser pointer to be perfectly positioned to go down the bore line and exit the muzzle both centrally, and straight.

    I realise it wouldnt be the easiest (or even most reliable) thing in the world. THats why I said you would need a second person to hold the laser.

    But lets just suppose for a minute that I was able to shine it dead center down the barrel and was able to hold it steady. Is there any other reason why it wouldnt work?

    (To be honest I cant even understand how regular bore sight lasers work either. We all know that light doesnt bend. And we all know that the bullet drops (or in other words it 'curves'). So in my mind, it seems like an impossible feat for a laser to accurately zero you at 100 yards :confused: )


    BTW: Before anyone starts complaining... no Im not just being a tightass with money. It was just a passing thought I had earlier and now Im on a bit of a mission to conclude either way if it will work or not :pac:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,616 ✭✭✭FISMA


    Gonzor wrote: »
    Just got to thinking there today, Im sure everyone has seen those laser bore sighters.

    Well could you do the same thing with a regular old laser pointers you see kids playing with? Just take the bolt out of the rifle and hold the laser very steady. Actually youd probably have to get someone else to hold the laser.... while you dial in.

    Anyone ever try this? Or anyone with a laser fancy trying this and reporting back?

    Gonzor,
    Those laser pointers that kids play with may look like LASERS, but often they are not.

    To be honest, you really do not need them. They are handy at home when you want to sight in to ensure you are on paper and close at the range.

    Ask EZ to post/repost/link how he sets up at the range without the bolt in the action. It works better than any LASER and it's cheaper as well.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,697 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Gonzor wrote: »
    I realise it wouldnt be the easiest (or even most reliable) thing in the world. THats why I said you would need a second person to hold the laser.

    But lets just suppose for a minute that I was able to shine it dead center down the barrel and was able to hold it steady. Is there any other reason why it wouldnt work?
    No thats pretty much the only reason. It doesn't matter how careful, precise, etc you simply would not be able to do it.

    Also the "bullet laser pointers" are not that expensive.
    (To be honest I cant even understand how regular bore sight lasers work either. We all know that light doesnt bend. And we all know that the bullet drops (or in other words it 'curves'). So in my mind, it seems like an impossible feat for a laser to accurately zero you at 100 yards :confused: )
    Its a guide ONLY. It will not actually zero the rifle. The only way to do that is to fire. The reason for the pointer is to line up the cross hair of the scope with the laser (which represents the bore line of the barrel).

    Once you have "line of sight" zero then you simply need to ajust a few clicks to zero for your chosen round.
    BTW: Before anyone starts complaining... no Im not just being a tightass with money. It was just a passing thought I had earlier and now Im on a bit of a mission to conclude either way if it will work or not :pac:
    Technically, and entertainging the idea, if you could position the pointer in the chamber or sitting in the action (depending on size) and align it to go through the dead centre of the barrel from chamber to muzzle, and not move a thousandth of an inch then yes it could be used. Problem is holding it position or more to the point getting it into position in the first place.
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    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,697 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Here is the zero process i use as FISMA REFERENCED.
    If installing the scope the quick way would be to place the rifle in a gun clamp or very steady front rest and back bag. Place a spirit level on a flat section of the rifle. If none can be got or trusted take the rings apart and screw on the bottom section of the rings leaving the top piece of. Tighten these down. Now place a level across these rings and straighten the rifle. Once your happy, place the scope into the rings and place the top section of the rings on the bootom section over the scope and screw in the screws but DO NOT tighten.

    Have a heavy string/line hanging from the ceiling of your hall (at the end of the hall). Weigh it down if necessary. This will give you a dead straight vertical line. Have the rifle pointing towards the string and adjust the position of the scope forward and back in the rings until your eye relief is good (that there is no black when you look into the scope) Twist/turn the scope until the vertical line of the crosshair tallies with the string/line hanging in your hall. Once happy tighten the screws on the rings but do so in an alternating fashion as if you tighten one side fully it will twist the scope in the rings. Problem i find with some lads is even though the crosshairs are perfectly straight everyone holds the rifle at a slight cant and so when they put it to their eye they think the crosshair is leaning. Its not. Resist the temptation to adjust it as canting the crosshair to suit your hold will mean any clicking to zero the scope will result in angled adjustments rather than perfectly up/down or left/right adjustments.

    Go to a range or find a fixed spot at home. Somewhere around the 50yd mark is grand. Have the elevation of your scope trned down to zero. Have the windage adjustments centralised. As in if there is 50 minutes (moa) of adjustment have it set for 25moa. Have the bolt removed and with the rifle unclamped adjust the rifle until you can see the target down the barrel. The muzzle of the gun will appear as a circle and must sit perfectly "central" in the circle created by the breach. Once this is done make sure the target is central in the circles created by the muzzle and breach. Have the rifle reclamped making sure the target is still central in the bore/barrel. Now without moving the rifle look through the scope and see where the crosshairs are in relation to the target. Adjust the crosshairs up to and left/right until they meet the target. Now once more check the bore/barrel sight and scope sight. If you are happy both are pointing at the same target time to replace the bolt and fire a shot (this is why i recommen doing this at a range). Find where the shot impacted. Measure the distance from your point of impact to the target bull and adjust your scope as necessary. gain fire another shot. You should be either in or very close to the bull. Make one more adjustment if you are not in the bull and fire one more round. You should be zeroed at this point
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 257 ✭✭Gonzor


    Thats a very handy guide Ezirdax I'll have to give that a go. Love the bit about hanging the string from a ceiling. I was always taught to get the spirit level out and draw a horizontal line with pencil across the kitchen wall. And use that. But I think your method will be better. And it will probably save me some ear ache too :D:)

    Oh right. So its only a *guide*. The impression those damn advertisements give out is that using the laser will have you zerod perfectly without firing a single shot. :rolleyes:

    I was wondering how on earth it would work because you have different bullet weights, different scope heights, different drop rates etc... I knew there had to be something else to it. So really they should be telling us that those lasers are only designed to get you within a couple of inches and not bang on the money. :rolleyes:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 335 ✭✭Constab2


    Try the Site Lite 150,very good laser bore sighter & recordable not that expensive,have one over a year now ,very good to check your true zero from 100 yards.Also comes with a sight level quick & easy.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 397 ✭✭Boiled-egg


    Lads, I'm by no means an expert but I think that the laser is just to "get you on the paper" not a replacement for zeroing but just an aid. I'll be zeroing my new .17 in a few days and there won't be a laser in sight. (pardon the pun)


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