t8 stuck help

browning 12 bore

hey there lads was just cleaning up the gun there and went to take off the moderator and low and behold not even a budge on it now i had it off a little over 3 to 4 weeks ago some say thats a lot to have it not off other say its ok any way its stuck now any help would be appricated thanks

clivej

Soak in WD40 from the barrel end of the mod. Leave for a couple of days to do its work.

Cass

A mod should never be left on a rifle - ever. It collects residue, can cause pitting, and damage t the threads, and crown. Unless in constant use it should be removed, and cleaned including the threads off the rifle, and crown.

Even with constant use it should be removed, and cleaned.

As to removing it. I seen people fire a couple of shot, heat the barrel/mod, and see if it loosens then try turn the mod. Not really "scientific" though. The other solution i used on the cousin's rifle a while back was i got an oil filter remover, the one you use for a car's oil filter, wrap a cloth around the mod, and get some good leverage on it.

When you do get it of may i suggest you buy a tube of copper grease and line the threads beofre putting the mod back on. It provides better lubrication, and protection as it has a higher temp. tolerance.

beanie10

As above fire about 5 rounds in quick succession and try remove straight away.

daithi55

if your going to soak it id use breakfree its a lot better than wd40 at penetrating
its not cheap though

4200fps

After you get your mod off i'd use a can of dry lube,its not easy got but its clean and its very effective especially on threads where you dont want grease.I can guarantee it will open again everytime its savage stuff. I use it alot a work on pins and bushings for a press and the results is brill. copper grease is very good depending where you use it and its environment it attracts dust and dirt

Cass

4200fps wrote: »

copper grease is very good depending where you use it and its environment it attracts dust and dirt

What do you mean where you use it?

He is asking about the mod, which means the threads on the end of the barrel. Place a small amount of grease on the threads, screw down the mod and the threads from the barrel, and mod creat a great seal with the grease protecting.

If you don't want to use copper grease fair enough, but telling someone it attracts dirt, and dust is wrong.

poulo6.5

the same thing has bin happening to me lately and i always remove my mod after use and store it separated,

what i did to get it loose is leave it in front of the fire with the mod end pointing to the fire, this helped to expand the mod and not heat the barrel which is what you need to do. only leave it there for a few min as you dont want to melt anything then with a towel to protect your hands put the rifle between your legs and get a firm grip of the mod and it should move for you.

my t8 is on the way out and is starting to show its age. time for a new one

4200fps

Ezridax wrote: »

What do you mean where you use it?

He is asking about the mod, which means the threads on the end of the barrel. Place a small amount of grease on the threads, screw down the mod and the threads from the barrel, and mod creat a great seal with the grease protecting.

If you don't want to use copper grease fair enough, but telling someone it attracts dirt, and dust is wrong.

I know he means threads at end of barrel,Im using it day in and day out in a factory which has the biggest presses in Ireland and UK for door manufacturing and its dusty and dirty and 250 degrees in heat and thats what we use is dry grease on the threads as the fibre and dust would stick to it other wise. Copper grease certainly would work 100% but im a big fan of dry lube.

4200fps

Dry lube is used on some fast bullets to help prevent barrel ware.moly is another type of dry lube

garv123

We were down in a gun shop yesterday getting a mod for the .243 and the rfd said to use copper grease on it too.

4200fps

garv123 wrote: »

We were down in a gun shop yesterday getting a mod for the .243 and the rfd said to use copper grease on it too.
.

Lots wouldn't know or heard of dry lube.Its hard to come by

Cass

4200fps wrote: »

I know he means threads at end of barrel,Im using it day in and day out in a factory which has the biggest presses in Ireland and UK for door manufacturing and its dusty and dirty and 250 degrees in heat and thats what we use is dry grease on the threads as the fibre and dust would stick to it other wise. .

You're comparing an open, dusty workplace to the "sealed" threading between a mod and a barrel. nothing alike.

4200fps wrote: »

Lots wouldn't know or heard of dry lube.Its hard to come by

I've heard of it, and have Moly, etc, however when and where i can use copper grease i will always use it over any dry lube. It bakes on whereas grease does not or at least not to the same extent.

It means when i finish shooting i remove the mod, clean of the grease with the wipe of a cloth, and re-apply a small fresh bit.

Tackleberrywho

PTFE Tape.
High Melting point, good seal and removes easily and cleanly.
Or nust get rid of the steel mods and get stainless or Ti.

4200fps

Tackleberrywho wrote: »

PTFE Tape.
High Melting point, good seal and removes easily and cleanly.
Or nust get rid of the steel mods and get stainless or Ti.

I wouldn't put much of that on or you'd need a stilson to open it,small bit of dry lube or smallest bit of copper grease is the only job. PTFE tape is great for preventing water leaks and keeps thread locked in position thats its real purpose imo

daithi55

garv123 wrote: »

We were down in a gun shop yesterday getting a mod for the .243 and the rfd said to use copper grease on it too.

in this case the gun dealer is right
but theres some fecking gangsters out there two
wouldnt always believe what ****e comes out of there mouth

Tackleberrywho

4200fps wrote: »

I wouldn't put much of that on or you'd need a stilson to open it,small bit of dry lube or smallest bit of copper grease is the only job. PTFE tape is great for preventing water leaks and keeps thread locked in position thats its real purpose imo

Only one strand. I found it good on my old steel barrel. I don't need anything now as both my barrels are stainless

CJhaughey

If you want a really good penetrating oil, use ATF fluid with some acetone.
Leave muzzle down and put a good squirt on the muzzle/mod joint.
Leave for as long as possible, Then use a Boa Constrictor to unscrew.

ProStalker

Tackleberrywho wrote: »

PTFE Tape.
High Melting point, good seal and removes easily and cleanly.
Or nust get rid of the steel mods and get stainless or Ti.

That would be a disaster.. DO NOT put that on tour threads.

4200fps

PDFE tape be nearly as bad as LockTight or horsehair

Tackleberrywho

4200fps wrote: »

PDFE tape be nearly as bad as LockTight or horsehair

I use it in work all the time.
It's only On hand tight lads.

I've never had a problem with my ASE S5 several years on, but you do get what you pay for

tomcat220t

Sorry to hear your problems ,jay.
If you cant
sort it out yourself send it up to Fergal White in Athlone ......know a guy who had a can stuck on aswell and he sorted it out .

ssl

browning 12 bore wrote: »

hey there lads was just cleaning up the gun there and went to take off the moderator and low and behold not even a budge on it now i had it off a little over 3 to 4 weeks ago some say thats a lot to have it not off other say its ok any way its stuck now any help would be appricated thanks

I'd spray both ends with wd40. Leave for a couple of hours, heat on the radiator, spray again. Then use a belt to remove it ( put belt through the buckle, tighten around the mod and pull to open). Tell us how u get on

sfakiaman

I think the advice about heating the mod and removing with a strap wrench is the best way, but unless the threading is very tight I'm not sure about grease or wd 40. I used to have this problem with chucks on my woodturning lathe and it was the faces perpendicular to the axis that were seizing not the threads. I think the problem was caused (if the chuck was only hand tight) by the start up torque locking the chuck way past hand tight, I now use spanners to really tighten the chucks and have no more problems. The action of the bullet(s) passing down the rifling may be having the same effect on the moderator (acting like an impact wrench) so maybe using a strap wrench to install the moderator might help the problem

homerhop

Had a similar problem with mine a few weeks ago, gave it a good soak in oil and took an hour of getting a slight turn and working it left and right till it screwed off.

beretta391

i often got the con saw and had no problem getting it of, just take you tme with the cuts...

ProStalker

In future just don't tighten it all the way, I leave mine a half turn from tight and it never gets stuck.

johngalway

After you get your mod free, I'd suggest:

• Buy copper grease and use it.
• Never leave the mod on your gun when you're not using it.

Every time you get home, whether you've fired the gun or not:

• Remove the mod and put it on a radiator to warm it up (buy a cheapie fan heater if nothing else is available).
• Wipe the crown with a very lightly oiled rag to remove any burnt powder, if you want to be anal about it you can remove the old copper grease each time and apply a new blob but I don't.
• Spray a little WD40 into the mod from the front end, this will move about inside the mod much better after it's been warmed up. (The warming and the WD40 do two jobs, both act to drive out moisture - moisture reacting with burnt powder is what'll rust your T8.).
• Use some gun or other suitable oil on the outside of your mod, quick wipe with an oily cloth will do, then keep it in an oily sock inside a plastic bag to keep thing tidy if you like.

Clean rest of gun as normal.

deeksofdoom

ProStalker wrote: »

In future just don't tighten it all the way, I leave mine a half turn from tight and it never gets stuck.

Half a turn from tight, sure the mod would be loose on the rifle and groups would be all over the place.

browning 12 bore

jaysus lads thanks very much for all your help lads going at it now very soon but i just want to say thanks for all your help lads
and happy xmas and a great new year

ProStalker

deeksofdoom wrote: »

Half a turn from tight, sure the mod would be loose on the rifle and groups would be all over the place.

Really? Never noticed any difference to be honest. Don't shoot groups though.

deeksofdoom

ProStalker wrote: »

Really? Never noticed any difference to be honest. Don't shoot groups though.

Is it a deer rifle you have?

ProStalker

deeksofdoom wrote: »

Is it a deer rifle you have?

Yea .308, proper caliber!

deeksofdoom

Well my experience of moderators is that if its not properly tight you will be shooting all over the place.

4200fps

Hand tight be loads. Here's the right stuff for any gun,threads or moving parts,its clean,NO MESS,nearly invisible,repels dirt and rust,cleans and what not http://www.hornady.com/store/One-Shot-Gun-Cleaner/ I use industrial grade at work on Threads,pins and bushings and other things and the results are unreal,never a mess or never seems to seize up.I don't know if you can buy this in a hardware or motor factors as company buys it in from states. For threads this is the business you wont know till you see for yourselfs.