Cutting firewood solo

eatmedrinkme

We've been harvesting alder, ash, a little beech and spruce for the last 2 years, and, processing them with a chainsaw and handtools.

Typically, I'll use a chainsaw for felling and limbing, cut the lengths to moveable size, stack the logs for a year, and then log and split them. I do all this solo, and cutting the lengths into stove sized logs before splitting is really time consuming.

My current setup involves chaining or strapping the logs onto a sturdy homemade sawhorse, and cutting them there. But, for each log, I have to mnove it and restrap it a couple of times to avoid the log biting under compression, leaving the chainsaw idling, taking more effort, and adding a lot of work and time to my logpile.

So, I'm looking for a more efficient setup for cutting the logs to stove size.

I've been online, looking at log holders like this one (which does up to 9 inches), which seem to be a good solution, but, being a cheapskate smallholder, I'm thinking of something more like this. That said, I have a husqvarna 240e, which is faiirly low power, so the log width I can cut is limited (14 inch bar that will cut a max of about 10-12 inches of hardwood)

What setup do you guys have for cutting firewood?

clonmahon

I use a setup just like this

blue5000

I use a shear grab, pick up the tree, trim off the rubbish. Then drive to the logpile, cut it into blocks. If they're small enough they go straight in the shed, otherwise they're left to oneside for the logsplitter.

I prefer to leave them about 12" long, they're easier to stack. But if it's hawthorn I cut them at the bends/forks so that it's straight and easier to stack.

greenfingers89

http://donegalwoodlandowners.com/classified/sawhorselg_lg.jpg


€280 for this baby, by far the best sawhorse on the market imo, no need for tightning straps, theres a chain holding the logs which is tensioned with a spring and released by putting your foot on the pedal. holds lots of smaller logs as well which is handy.....donegal woodland owners society limited sell them, maybe a cheaper version could be made up by a local fella you know (as long as you dont breach any copyrite/patent of course)

Askim

greenfingers89 wrote: »

http://donegalwoodlandowners.com/classified/sawhorselg_lg.jpg


€280 for this baby, by far the best sawhorse on the market imo, no need for tightning straps, theres a chain holding the logs which is tensioned with a spring and released by putting your foot on the pedal. holds lots of smaller logs as well which is handy.....donegal woodland owners society limited sell them, maybe a cheaper version could be made up by a local fella you know (as long as you dont breach any copyrite/patent of course)

see this one at ploughing a few years ago, think the guy who came up with it is from Borris, Co.Carlow

I made one like the all timber one, worked really well, i had 4 posts and middle two were closer as i wanted logs about a foot long, used strap in middle & had to tighten every now & then, ( was cutting small twisty branches, they settle as you cut)


A

slowburner

I use a single handed tree surgeon's chain saw and a table. It does away with the need for a saw horse altogether but probably wouldn't keep the H & S folk happy.
I've always found cutting multiple logs together a bit risky.

eatmedrinkme

I like the pedal release idea on the Donegal sawhorse, but, not the 289 price tag.

Might have a look at the release meachanism and see if I can bodge something up.

For this season, I think I might wind up with Clonmahon's stand, or something like it - think a purpose built wood one, that's elevated might do the trick. Elevate it on a platform, ratchet strap the lot down, and set the spacers to the width I need for my stove.

slowburner

This is what the old 'Bodgers' used to use for holding timber. The cam principle could easily be adapted to a saw horse for blocking firewood.
http://www.greenwoodworking.com/ShavingHorsePlans

Eleganza

We've got a metal sawhorse with metal jaws which close under the pressure of a spring and open by depressing a footpedal.
It is heavy but effective. I can't find a picture of anything similiar in google.
looks like this but with jaws and heavier dutyhttp://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/wpsc/product_images/thumbnails/tt746.jpg

gazahayes

i have one the same as eleganza must take a few pics of it and stick it up

eatmedrinkme

We have a homemade shaving horse like the one pictured. The other half made it, so, I must check with her about the design, and adapting it. I like the idea...

I have a homemade heavy duty wood horse, but it's not fast enough for solo work. It;s got three cosspieces, with points for bungee cords, but shifting the logs and resecuring is time consuming. I have, at least, three or four cubic metres of logs to work through, and another one or two on the way, plus whatever I cut this winter. So, the solution needs to be sturdy, and time saving.

eatmedrinkme

The solution you're suggesting looks the best for my needs ( though slowburbers shavehorse has me thinking...), and I've seen a couple around the net, where the jaws hold either the missle, or the end of a log, leaving you free to cut your logs all the way down to the jaws.

So you clamp, and then process the entire log, and then do the next one. It looks safer that the multiple log cutting stands, where you stack many logs together, and would work with my lower powered chainsaw.

Now I just need to work out how to make one....

slowburner

Likewise

reilig

http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/machinery/2598033

I have one of these. Similar in principle to the Donegal one above, but much cheaper. TBH, galwanising is overkill. Mine is painted and will last a lifetime. Bought it from a young guy in Mayo who was making them. Paid Eur120. I'll see if I can dig out his number if you're interested.

Or can take a few pictures for you if you want to have a go at making it yourself.

slowburner

Here's a chap with a blunt saw and a nice sawhorse :pac:

Eleganza

That guy's time would be better employed putting an edge on his chain.

slowburner

Nice selection of sawhorses here, to buy or steal ideas from
http://www.thegreenreaper.co.uk/Chainsaws/Log_Saw_Horses

amen

he needs a new chain. He doesn't even have any safety gear on.
Crazy stuff. Ireland needs to bring in license system like they do in the uk.

greenfingers89

amen wrote: »

Ireland needs to bring in license system like they do in the uk.

already have a licence system here, enforcement would be very useful!

CJhaughey

amen wrote: »

he needs a new chain. He doesn't even have any safety gear on.
Crazy stuff. Ireland needs to bring in license system like they do in the uk.

Only needed for commercial operation of saws, not home useage.
UK is the same.

JohnBoy

I'm having similar thoughts at the moment.

I tend to end up with a lot of relatively light timber, ten inches down. I normally cut them into 4-6 foot lengths initially and then cut them up later.

I'm looking for something load up with lengths and then chop, chop, chop, chop, chop, fill a wheelbarrow or two of blocks and start all over again. suits me better to handle chop and load in longer runs. If for no reason other than if my wife is helping she can step in and load the barrow/trailer while I start sorting through the longer stuff again.


I'm thinking of making something like this. I like the vertical aspect of it, I feel that timber is less likely to try and escape than in the more traditional X shaped horse.

http://www.thegreenreaper.co.uk/Chainsaws/Log_Saw_Horses/Oregon-Log-Saw-Horse-OR542653.html



However, something basic like this could be made in an hour or two for small money and might work just as well.

http://www.thegreenreaper.co.uk/Chainsaws/Log_Saw_Horses/Garden_Power_Log_Saw_Horse.html

I was thinking about putting a small bend in the upper branches of the X to make it more vertical as I'd be a bit concerned about timbers trying to escape.

Kinda like so.

reilig

JohnBoy wrote: »

http://www.thegreenreaper.co.uk/Chainsaws/Log_Saw_Horses/Garden_Power_Log_Saw_Horse.html

I was thinking about putting a small bend in the upper branches of the X to make it more vertical as I'd be a bit concerned about timbers trying to escape.

Kinda like so.

This is quite similar to what i linked above on donedeal. However, mine has a chain. Don't skimp on the chain, its essential for your own safety from flying wood and it makes the process of sawing log lengths much faster.

JohnBoy

I wonder would a bungee be better than a chain? as someone pointed out further up the pile can tend to settle as it's cut.

greenfingers89

JohnBoy wrote: »

I wonder would a bungee be better than a chain? as someone pointed out further up the pile can tend to settle as it's cut.

all the ones iv seen with chains have been tightened with a spring so it can cope with a shift in the way the logs are lying and hold them in place

slowburner

JohnBoy wrote: »

I wonder would a bungee be better than a chain? as someone pointed out further up the pile can tend to settle as it's cut.

That's why a chain is your only man You need to get way more pressure on the pile than a bungee can produce.
Ratchet straps will do it but the chain and spring is faster to reset.

JohnBoy

I'm not sure a light chain and spring can provide intrinsically more pressure than a bungee (which are remarkable things by the way) but it does answer the how do they do it question.

slowburner

JohnBoy wrote: »

I'm not sure a light chain and spring can provide intrinsically more pressure than a bungee (which are remarkable things by the way) but it does answer the how do they do it question.

Bungees are great things for sure. Except when you have them wrapped around something and you go to pull them just that extra bit to get the hooks on - and then you lose your grip. Boy can they hurt if you're in the firing line :eek:

The problem with bungees is that you need to have exactly the right size - too short and you can't get the hooks on, too long and you don't get enough pressure.

TomOnBoard

Why not use the setup as per the photo posted by clonmahon in #2of this thread, and cut down through the stack? There are lots of YouTube videos demonstrating this method.

slowburner

My particular problem is that most of my firewood has to be brought down from a very steep hill. For this reason, I can't leave it in long enough lengths for multiple stacked cutting.
It's good exercise but awfully slow.
The current solution is a knackered shopping trolley basket mounted on a small axle with two wheelbarrow wheels. It's the front half of one of those go karts which were all the rage a while ago. Both were found dumped at the side of the road (it pays to keep an eye out - you never know what'll be useful)

I saw a tv programme ages ago where a Frenchman used a sled to get his wood down, he was in front of it and kind of ran an held it back at the same time - it was insanely dangerous and just wouldn't work here.
Any alternative suggestions?

Jack_regan

slowburner wrote: »

My particular problem is that most of my firewood has to be brought down from a very steep hill. For this reason, I can't leave it in long enough lengths for multiple stacked cutting.
It's good exercise but awfully slow.
Any alternative suggestions?

Any chance you could set up a zip wire. There is a clip on you tube of somebody in a similar situation. Obviously it might cost a bit to set up if you were going to buy a long length of steel wire rope but you could probably rig something up with ordinary rope. It really depends on the terrain and if you have a clear run down the hill and a tree at the top and the bottom to tie the zip wire to. Also it really depends on the size of the firewood.Obviously if you are dealing with smaller logs than in the clip on you tube, you could rig up some kind of sling and stack a few logs together. Now there's a project for you, that should keep you busy for the weekend!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRM8V-xMJeI

slowburner

HT wire is not as expensive as you would think.
Time is short (as are the days) especially the weekends at the moment, but it looks like a very sensible solution - better than the trolley on pneumatic tyres anyhoo.
And the conditions required, i.e. somewhere to fix the zip line top and bottom are there.

eatmedrinkme

Finally got it sorted. Built a portable timber horse, capable of being multistacked, and ratheted in the centre. Does 8 to 10 medium logs in minutes, with my 2hp Husqvarna, and a 14 inch bar, and can handle vary length and diameter logs. Small enough to be used in the forest too, which could save a little cleaning.

It's basically a set of four 2x2 uprights, which stick into the ground, with a 2x4 base two plank base, with two 2x4 set horizontally a bit apart. Got all of next years firewood logged to stove size in two half days.

Will post pictures when I get them hosted.

eatmedrinkme

Next time, I'd make stronger, taller uprights, with bracing at the top to stop em spreading, I'm make three sets of uprights, with the ratchet strap goiug through a very narrow set, to avoid having to cut close to the strap, and trim the excess strp off the ratchet - it's dodgy to use in wind, even when the excess is tied off. I'll make solid legs, and croiss brace them underneath, probably a tripod, and use it on concrete ( and reserve this one for forest use). The sacrifice log at the bottom works well. The w crosspieces have logs under them to help stability, but the stability on this isn't perfect, because the sharpened legs heel over even though they are buried.

Atilathehun

This one aint bad, http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/subprod/log-saw-horses-and-ladders-0003399.aspx

slowburner

eatmedrinkme wrote: »

Next time, I'd make stronger, taller uprights, with bracing at the top to stop em spreading, I'm make three sets of uprights, with the ratchet strap goiug through a very narrow set, to avoid having to cut close to the strap, and trim the excess strp off the ratchet - it's dodgy to use in wind, even when the excess is tied off. I'll make solid legs, and croiss brace them underneath, probably a tripod, and use it on concrete ( and reserve this one for forest use). The sacrifice log at the bottom works well. The w crosspieces have logs under them to help stability, but the stability on this isn't perfect, because the sharpened legs heel over even though they are buried.

If you could mortice and tenon the uprights into the bottom rails for sawhorse #2, you'd be on the pig's back.
It's one of those things you have to make and try out, to see how to develop the concept.

newman10

Have one like this. Very safe

http://www.donedeal.ie/donedeal/classifieds/viewFullPhoto.jsp?cid=8878944&ad=2758129

eatmedrinkme

slowburner wrote: »

If you could mortice and tenon the uprights into the bottom rails for sawhorse #2, you'd be on the pig's back.
It's one of those things you have to make and try out, to see how to develop the concept.

That is probably the plan. If I can be unlazy enough to hack out the mortice and tenons. Long term a greenwood versin would be good. Next up, a tyre mounted on a chopping block to minimise bending down, and a car jack homemade log splitter.

Askim

nice looking cheap holder, built a 4 leg version, for small diameter sticks, worked really well.

if you bolt a 4x2 across it, about 1' up should stop it spreading & you won't need a log on the bottom, it will fit less in but it will be off the ground.

A

eatmedrinkme

Askim wrote: »

nice looking cheap holder, built a 4 leg version, for small diameter sticks, worked really well.

if you bolt a 4x2 across it, about 1' up should stop it spreading & you won't need a log on the bottom, it will fit less in but it will be off the ground.

A

Thanks Askim. I think I'll build an elevated one to a differenbt design I saw recently. Mightn't do it till the autumn.

I built this

to make spiltting easire. 3 pieves of three by two screwed to the top of a splitting log, with a tyre srewed in to the top. Legs on the bottom to aid stability - which really help, and 2x2 braces screwed in at eah of the frame angles.

Here's the topside view



Mucj less bending, as you can do several splits on one log without needing to bend down at all.

It's necessary to make sure there's a snug fit, so I keep a couple of small logs on hand to jam in, and reuse. Otherwise the whole shebang can fall apart. It's saving me about 90 per cent of the bending I'd do with a more conventional setup.

Pros: faster work, easier to split knotty pieces ( no resetting after the first whack), easier to split into smaller pieces, and my back feels a lot better afer four hours of splitting.

Next time, I'd choose a new or seasoned piece of hardwood - this is a spruce log that's already crumbling. You need to set the trye so that most of it is above the log too, otherwise logs can easily pop ot. And make sure everything is straight.

Askim

that looks a simple& handy design, must make one, before you get your patent filed

my only question is, does the tyre have to be that bald :)

was thinking, could you attach the stick holder to a front loader, as your cutting the cut ones start to pile up, just lift up the loader, drive back a few feet & off you go again, standing on level ground,

or maybe some kind of floor around it, cut 2 goes, lift the whole lot up & tip into a trailer???? maybe 2" weld mesh with angle supports & pin the whole lot to dung forks
would only work for ones that are not being split

A

slowburner

Cracking idea ('scuse the pun) eatmedrinkme.
I can see how it would save your back but is getting the split logs out of the tyre not a slower process then letting them build up to either side of the chopping block?

eatmedrinkme

slowburner wrote: »

Cracking idea ('scuse the pun) eatmedrinkme.
I can see how it would save your back but is getting the split logs out of the tyre not a slower process then letting them build up to either side of the chopping block?

Well, I tend to get my feet caught up in odd blocks, so I like a clear splitting space. Getting them out of the tyre, as long as I haven't wedged them in too much to begin with, is really easy. I pick them out with little or no force and chuck em on the pile.

And I only wedge them in because my block and angles are too wonky. On the next one, that's straight, I won't have to.

For me, it's my back that gives out and halts the work, after, say, one and a half hours of spruce splitting. With this setup, I can work until I'm tired - say three and a half hours - and my back is ok.

eatmedrinkme

Askim wrote: »

that looks a simple& handy design, must make one, before you get your patent filed

my only question is, does the tyre have to be that bald :)

was thinking, could you attach the stick holder to a front loader, as your cutting the cut ones start to pile up, just lift up the loader, drive back a few feet & off you go again, standing on level ground,

or maybe some kind of floor around it, cut 2 goes, lift the whole lot up & tip into a trailer???? maybe 2" weld mesh with angle supports & pin the whole lot to dung forks
would only work for ones that are not being split

A

Askim, if I had a front loader, and knew how to use it, I'd experiment. Longer term, I like your thinking. The quicker and more efficient, the better. But I don't have the machinery, or the need for it yet.

If I get time this summer, I might build a solar dryer - basically a small woodshed, with tarpp doorway, and clear plastic walls and roof. I'd use it as a cold frame in winter, because of the condensation issue ( cheers slowburner -I think - for warning me of that). In a good summer, it should get wood dry hyper fast. Anyone any ideas for how to effectively measure moisture loss?

johngalway

eatmedrinkme wrote: »

Askim, if I had a front loader, and knew how to use it, I'd experiment. Longer term, I like your thinking. The quicker and more efficient, the better. But I don't have the machinery, or the need for it yet.

If I get time this summer, I might build a solar dryer - basically a small woodshed, with tarpp doorway, and clear plastic walls and roof. I'd use it as a cold frame in winter, because of the condensation issue ( cheers slowburner -I think - for warning me of that). In a good summer, it should get wood dry hyper fast. Anyone any ideas for how to effectively measure moisture loss?

Seen a photo the last night of someone using a poly tunnel to dry wood. Not such a big job to make your own, fitting the plastic seems to be the toughest bit.

slowburner

eatmedrinkme wrote: »

Askim, if I had a front loader, and knew how to use it, I'd experiment. Longer term, I like your thinking. The quicker and more efficient, the better. But I don't have the machinery, or the need for it yet.

If I get time this summer, I might build a solar dryer - basically a small woodshed, with tarpp doorway, and clear plastic walls and roof. I'd use it as a cold frame in winter, because of the condensation issue ( cheers slowburner -I think - for warning me of that). In a good summer, it should get wood dry hyper fast. Anyone any ideas for how to effectively measure moisture loss?

Only two ways as far as I know.
Buy a moisture meter - these can range in price from €200 upwards and you need to spend that kind of money for them to be any way effective. Lignomat and Wagner are two well known manufacturers. Moisture meters for under €50 aren't worth a damn. The more reliable ones use pins.
Weigh a sample piece and record the changes over time. When the wood no longer loses any weight it is at its Equilibrium Moisture Point - that's as dry as it can be relative to its surroundings which is a max of 30% for air dried wood in Ireland.

I was harvesting firewood the other day. The trees were felled last spring and left out in the open. The wood itself is perfect but the bark is sodden. Apart from being dirty, slimy and a pain to handle, it slows up the whole drying process. I store the wood in a simple, open lean-to for secondary drying. This is fairly effective because by chance, I seemed to have positioned it in a wind tunnel. This is made of corrugated sheet metal fixed to the side of the workshop at a fairly steep pitch. I stuck an underlay of breather membrane between the joists and the roof sheets. No problems with condensation drips.
But I was thinking.
All those small branches that we usually leave behind - is there some way these could be burned to dry the main wood, efficiently?

eatmedrinkme

slowburner wrote: »

Only two ways as far as I know.
Buy a moisture meter - these can range in price from €200 upwards and you need to spend that kind of money for them to be any way effective. Lignomat and Wagner are two well known manufacturers. Moisture meters for under €50 aren't worth a damn. The more reliable ones use pins.
Weigh a sample piece and record the changes over time. When the wood no longer loses any weight it is at its Equilibrium Moisture Point - that's as dry as it can be relative to its surroundings which is a max of 30% for air dried wood in Ireland.

I was harvesting firewood the other day. The trees were felled last spring and left out in the open. The wood itself is perfect but the bark is sodden. Apart from being dirty, slimy and a pain to handle, it slows up the whole drying process. I store the wood in a simple, open lean-to for secondary drying. This is fairly effective because by chance, I seemed to have positioned it in a wind tunnel. This is made of corrugated sheet metal fixed to the side of the workshop at a fairly steep pitch. I stuck an underlay of breather membrane between the joists and the roof sheets. No problems with condensation drips.
But I was thinking.
All those small branches that we usually leave behind - is there some way these could be burned to dry the main wood, efficiently?

Thanks slowburner. Much appreciated.

Coford's experiments in Ireland gave them circa 20% moisture content after indoor drying, with no kiln aids. Theyt reckon anything belkow 20% would be worthless, as humidity here is often around that, and wood that's untreated will just soak the moisture back up.

I like your idea of using the smaller stuff. That said, I usually leave it behind to a) heap up around the stumps so they are protected while resprouting, from deer and b) the time taken to bundle and process them seems far more than the time it takes me to fell and strip another ash/alder/spruce pole.

I like the solar idea because, apart from the initial outlay, it requires zero effort from me. That said, a good method for using the kindling material and brash to give a fast dry could get someone out of a hole if they are behind on their cutting.

Will research this...

ootbitb

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqI63IEg3MM


someone mentioned using a saw one handed

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/2153563/Father-helpless-as-tree-surgeon-son-severs-neck-with-chainsaw.html

slowburner

ootbitb wrote: »

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqI63IEg3MM


someone mentioned using a saw one handed

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/2153563/Father-helpless-as-tree-surgeon-son-severs-neck-with-chainsaw.html

That's a sad story and it is always good to have reminder of the devastation a chainsaw can cause.
I use a single handed saw most of the time but I use it with all due care and I am always mindful of the fact that one lapse in concentration could be fatal.
I have another big old saw but I actually find the single handed saw is a bit safer to use because of the fact that it is easier to keep your body out of the path of any kickback.
You can use a single handed saw with two hands if needs be.
While the small saw lacks the power and cutting capacity of its bigger brothers, it is great for poking into spots where the big saws can't reach - this means you won't need to cut your way in.
This can make a big saving in fuel, which is an increasingly important consideration these days.

Prowetod

Any chance of a picture of how you dry the timber, slowburner or anyone else who's having success in drying their wood?

slowburner

Prowetod wrote: »

Any chance of a picture of how you dry the timber, slowburner or anyone else who's having success in drying their wood?

I was just throwing out the idea, I haven't tried it myself.

Tora Bora

Prowetod wrote: »

Any chance of a picture of how you dry the timber, slowburner or anyone else who's having success in drying their wood?

Like this. Gets you in touch with your spiritual side in the process
http://www.motherearthnews.com/multimedia/image-gallery.aspx?id=71972