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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,371 ✭✭✭john_cappa


    Dtp79 wrote: »
    False. Just put an appropriately sized vent on the external wall of the room where the stove is. This vent must be a permenantly open one

    To clarify the stove is not on an external wall so no vent can be used through the wall. Also the stove is to be a room sealed stove for use with HRV system so no open vent can be used regardless.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    john_cappa wrote: »
    To clarify the stove is not on an external wall so no vent can be used through the wall. Also the stove is to be a room sealed stove for use with HRV system so no open vent can be used regardless.

    Ah ok. An important bit of info ya left out in the original post!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 181 ✭✭smallwonder


    I had the central heating on timer and when I went to light my new boiler stove it was really warm and the pipes were roasting. Is this normal?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    I had the central heating on timer and when I went to light my new boiler stove it was really warm and the pipes were roasting. Is this normal?

    By right there should have been nonreturn valves fitted on stove to stop the oil heating circulating the stove.It will do no harm


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    I had the central heating on timer and when I went to light my new boiler stove it was really warm and the pipes were roasting. Is this normal?

    Def not normal and definately not right.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 133 ✭✭vertico


    should all connections on a boiler stove be plumbed into the system or can 2 be closed off?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    vertico wrote: »
    should all connections on a boiler stove be plumbed into the system or can 2 be closed off?

    Ideally all should be used but its not a must and not all situations are ideal


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 181 ✭✭smallwonder


    Dtp79 wrote: »
    Def not normal and definately not right.

    Confused now! I didn't think it was normal. Big waste of my oil I'm thinking. Is it a big job to get non-return valves put in?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    Confused now! I didn't think it was normal. Big waste of my oil I'm thinking. Is it a big job to get non-return valves put in?

    Not a big job but it could be. God knows how bad the pipework u already have is if he didn't put in the most basic feature of a dual system. Any pics ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,371 ✭✭✭john_cappa


    john_cappa wrote: »
    In a new build if the stove location is not on an external wall I gather you need to install a duct in the foundations to external air.

    Is there special ducting for this? or what is used? Guy in shop said any ducting will do even sewer piping like for plumbing a toilet?

    True or false?


    Any one help with this? Can i just use sewer pipe in the floor to external air then connect my room sealed stove with the external air kit to the sewer pipe ducting?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 181 ✭✭smallwonder


    Dtp79 wrote: »
    Not a big job but it could be. God knows how bad the pipework u already have is if he didn't put in the most basic feature of a dual system. Any pics ?

    I've attached a picture of the pipework and also a picture of the flue on the roof. I'm getting awful blow downs and was advised on here that I would probably need the flue to go higher. Any idea how much higher?
    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    john_cappa wrote: »
    Any one help with this? Can i just use sewer pipe in the floor to external air then connect my room sealed stove with the external air kit to the sewer pipe ducting?

    That should be ok but just check with manufacturer most ducts have to finished with steel to stove see if you can find out min distance


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    I've attached a picture of the pipework and also a picture of the flue on the roof. I'm getting awful blow downs and was advised on here that I would probably need the flue to go higher. Any idea how much higher?
    Thanks

    What length is your flue currently? Usually they are 1 metre lengths so easy to add up. As for the pipework, will need to see alot more including the cyclinder. Take the shots from a distance where the pic takes in as much as possible


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    I've attached a picture of the pipework and also a picture of the flue on the roof. I'm getting awful blow downs and was advised on here that I would probably need the flue to go higher. Any idea how much higher?
    Thanks
    The pic of the pipe work Unfortunitly tells nothing but the flue needs to be raised to a height above the ridge so looking at it I would say another metre I think I already advised this


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 181 ✭✭smallwonder


    Sorry about the useless pic of pipes...shows the extent of my knowledge! I hope this can provide more info.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    Sorry about the useless pic of pipes...shows the extent of my knowledge! I hope this can provide more info.

    How many pipes are coming off the back of your stove? Also is you cyclinder a dual coil?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 105 ✭✭kerb


    hi all

    can any recomend a 20kw to 25kw insert boiler stove with about 4kw to room and 16 to 20kw to hot water and rads looking for some thing like this

    http://www.stovecentre.ie/product.php?id_product=249


    thanks alot


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 181 ✭✭smallwonder


    Dtp79 wrote: »
    How many pipes are coming off the back of your stove? Also is you cyclinder a dual coil?

    4 pipes from stove. I don't know about the cylinder but it was a new one put in for the stove so I assume its the right one


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    4 pipes from stove. I don't know about the cylinder but it was a new one put in for the stove so I assume its the right one

    Out of curiosity, when only the stove is going does the oil boiler heat up? Check after an hour or when the rads are hot


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 133 ✭✭vertico


    im looking at a few differrent stoves, can anyone recommend any of these as its a big investment for me
    http://www.henleystoves.com/boiler-stoves/the-druid-30kw-stove
    http://www.ukstoves.co.uk/product/37KW_EB_25_HE_Multi_Fuel_Boiler_Stove/
    http://www.thestoveshop.ie/modules/store/Aarrow-Stratford-TF90B-24Kw-Multifuel-Boiler-Stove-18-to-20-Rad_P163268C13484.cfm

    i live in a dormer and calculated and need nearly 30 kw ,, but i dont want a stove thats huge in size and takes a huge ammount of fuel.. at the moment i have a saey blenheim and it wont even heat downstairs


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 363 ✭✭Mando Commando


    Hi guys,

    Quick quesion - looking for reasonably priced 4" flue bits and accessories for a diy camp/tent stove I made, having experimented unsuccessfully with various dodgy homemade alternatives. Everywhere I look online is offering vitreous enamel and so on but don't need that, looking for cheap and cheerful, doesn't have to be pretty - any ideas?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    Hi guys,

    Quick quesion - looking for reasonably priced 4" flue bits and accessories for a diy camp/tent stove I made, having experimented unsuccessfully with various dodgy homemade alternatives. Everywhere I look online is offering vitreous enamel and so on but don't need that, looking for cheap and cheerful, doesn't have to be pretty - any ideas?

    Your looking at basic single wall steel or stainless.Most flue makers will have something try MI flues or Oriel flues both are online


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 363 ✭✭Mando Commando


    Robbie.G wrote: »
    Your looking at basic single wall steel or stainless.Most flue makers will have something try MI flues or Oriel flues both are online

    Thanks for that, sent MI a message, here's hoping they have some 4" gear, all 5" and up on the site


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 451 ✭✭bhamsteve


    You are looking at large stoves there, have you calculated the cost of supplying 30KW worth of fuel on an ongoing basis? I'd be looking towards better insulation and zoning the heating depending on needs if I were you.

    E.g. 30kw = 30kw stove x 12 hours per day x 4.5c/KWH (coal) at 75% efficiency
    = €21 per day
    6 hours @ €10.50 day etc

    TLDR; spend a few hundred on insulation/ draught-proofing, thermostatic radiator valves in all rooms, thermal curtain liners etc, then reassess your heating needs. A 30+ KW stove will cost a lot to run.

    vertico wrote: »
    im looking at a few differrent stoves, can anyone recommend any of these as its a big investment for me
    http://www.henleystoves.com/boiler-stoves/the-druid-30kw-stove
    http://www.ukstoves.co.uk/product/37KW_EB_25_HE_Multi_Fuel_Boiler_Stove/
    http://www.thestoveshop.ie/modules/store/Aarrow-Stratford-TF90B-24Kw-Multifuel-Boiler-Stove-18-to-20-Rad_P163268C13484.cfm

    i live in a dormer and calculated and need nearly 30 kw ,, but i dont want a stove thats huge in size and takes a huge ammount of fuel.. at the moment i have a saey blenheim and it wont even heat downstairs


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7 kilkern5


    Just had a Blacksmith Furnace 30kw installed. Only learning at the moment but find that logs are burning very fast in it. When we close the dampers there is still high flames.
    So far we have only burnt logs but intend to do a mixture of logs and coal as we think this may be more efficient and economical. Are we correct in this?
    Also, we have noticed a small gap at the top where the doors meet. It appears that one of the doors is slightly warped. could this be a problem that needs to be addressed in order for it to work efficiently?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7 kilkern5


    Just had a Blacksmith Furnace 30kw installed. Only learning at the moment but find that logs are burning very fast in it. When we close the dampers there is still high flames.
    So far we have only burnt logs but intend to do a mixture of logs and coal as we think this may be more efficient and economical. Are we correct in this?
    Also, we have noticed a small gap at the top where the doors meet. It appears that one of the doors is slightly warped. could this be a problem that needs to be addressed in order for it to work efficiently?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    kilkern5 wrote: »
    Just had a Blacksmith Furnace 30kw installed. Only learning at the moment but find that logs are burning very fast in it. When we close the dampers there is still high flames.
    So far we have only burnt logs but intend to do a mixture of logs and coal as we think this may be more efficient and economical. Are we correct in this?
    Also, we have noticed a small gap at the top where the doors meet. It appears that one of the doors is slightly warped. could this be a problem that needs to be addressed in order for it to work efficiently?

    If there is a gap at the doors this will let the stove suck air in causing faster burn.
    If the doors are warped this is a warranty issue contact your supplier


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7 kilkern5


    Thanks for that reply.
    Yes I think we must do something as smoke is also escaping into the room.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    kilkern5 wrote: »
    Thanks for that reply.
    Yes I think we must do something as smoke is also escaping into the room.

    Get it looked at and if you don't currently have get a carbon monoxide alarm fitted a must with all stove installs


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 199 ✭✭Tinder


    Hi folks,

    I'm back again. Had picked out the Hanley Achill Boiler insert stove and am about to make the purchase but am having second thoughts! the reason being is the whole China steel issue.

    So the second option is the Firebird Troy multifuel inset stove.

    Question is does anyone have experience of this stove or offer another Irish made/ manufactured stove that meets the european standard of cast Iron.

    Cheers
    T


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