STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Wearb

Mickeroo wrote: »

What caused the explosion? Didn't think it had been made public/figured out yet.

Said backboiler on the Indo this morning.

https://www.independent.ie/irish-news/boiler-explosion-kills-man-28-at-house-with-cannabis-farm-in-shed-36324936.html

irishproduce

Are snuggle stoves much good guys? Just to get a basic stove up and running? Non boiler, 8kw. Thanks.

stuchyg

Looking for some impartial advice. Looking to get a freestanding stove in our open plan kitchen. Same room has a spiral staircase which leads upstairs to hoping to send a bit of heat up that way too. Stove would be positioned roughly where the bookcase is and out through the wall.

I have been informed that we need twin wall pipefor outside along with twin wall brackets and accessories. All told we are looking at 1100 quid just for fittings, that's slightly out of my price range at the minute. Anyone know of this would be a good price, it includes the following

5 X 1m twin wall straight pipe
3 twin wall brackets
Twin wall rain cap
2 twin wall 45 degree elbows
Twin wall 45 tee
2 X 500mm twin wall straight pipe
1 X 500mm single wall pipe
1 45 degree single wall elbow
1 twin wall start pipe adapter
1 twin wall base support

Anything I can do or change to try reduce costs?

ronn

That sounds about right, the 1m twin wall stuff i think is €100 a meter,

stuchyg

ronn wrote: »

That sounds about right, the 1m twin wall stuff i think is €100 a meter,

70 p/m online. It's things like the base support I'm questioning, thats 100 quid alone, does it need to be twin wall as well or can I buy a standard base support, same for the wall brackets, could save 100 odd quid on those

Forge83

stuchyg wrote: »

Looking for some impartial advice. Looking to get a freestanding stove in our open plan kitchen. Same room has a spiral staircase which leads upstairs to hoping to send a bit of heat up that way too. Stove would be positioned roughly where the bookcase is and out through the wall.

I have been informed that we need twin wall pipefor outside along with twin wall brackets and accessories. All told we are looking at 1100 quid just for fittings, that's slightly out of my price range at the minute. Anyone know of this would be a good price, it includes the following

5 X 1m twin wall straight pipe
3 twin wall brackets
Twin wall rain cap
2 twin wall 45 degree elbows
Twin wall 45 tee
2 X 500mm twin wall straight pipe
1 X 500mm single wall pipe
1 45 degree single wall elbow
1 twin wall start pipe adapter
1 twin wall base support

Anything I can do or change to try reduce costs?

Looks spot on price wise.
Everything listed required.

stuchyg

Forge83 wrote: »

Looks spot on price wise.
Everything listed required.

Thanks, been checking around on a few different sites and can manage it all for 1250 including the stove. Looking at the Henley Erne if anyone has experience of them. 5 inch flue is making it a bit of a pain for picking up little bits and pieces on adverts etc, most seems to be 6 inch diameter

Forge83

stuchyg wrote: »

Thanks, been checking around on a few different sites and can manage it all for 1250 including the stove. Looking at the Henley Erne if anyone has experience of them. 5 inch flue is making it a bit of a pain for picking up little bits and pieces on adverts etc, most seems to be 6 inch diameter

You can't mix and match brands of twin Wall Flue.
Different brands will have different connectors.

stuchyg

Forge83 wrote: »

You can't mix and match brands of twin Wall Flue.
Different brands will have different connectors.

The two sites are using darco twinn wall so I should be ok on that regard I think, just such expensive stuff

electrofelix

Looking for some info on cost benefits (or lack of) for a stove with back boiler.

Planning upgrade of existing oil boiler (probably to a grant vortex), work to zone the existing system to upstairs/downstairs/cylinder, and upgrade controls.

In addition because of a giant crack in our flue, looking to fit a stove and flue to cut off the draft and heat the sitting room. Expecting it will need ~4kW.

As we're getting so much other work done on the heating/plumbing, thinking that it would make sense to at least consider whether a back boiler stove would make sense, but struggling to work out whether it would be worth it.

Considering it because I've seen in the partner's brothers house, that they can easily keep the stove going without needing oil heat on for when they are at home. In our house we have a study that is to the side of the house, but it would through an external wall so if I was to work from home, or to use it as a playroom for children in the future, it's very unlikely any heat from a normal stove in the sitting room across the hall would come into the study/playroom. The alternative would be to run the heating for large parts of the day.

Also wondering will there be problems in managing the heat if the oil heating is on to heat the rest of downstairs and having a fire in the sitting room stove, but I presume that can be managed by having the thermostat outside of the sitting room and fitting a temperature control to the sitting room radiator?

The few back boiler stoves I've been looking at, suggest about ~7.5-13kW to the hot water + radiators.

With zoning I'd hope that it could be set up to only heat the hot water and downstairs radiators rather than the entire house, as that would result in more fuel being burnt in the fireplace.

The problems in working out whether it is worth the extra cost of plumbing in the back boiler plus the additional fuel cost versus a standard stove versus the how much it would cost in oil to heat the rest of the house with the stove going as well?

How much more fuel is burnt in a boiler stove versus normal stove with same output to the room? If it's 4.8kW to the room and 7.5kW to the hot water, is it 2.56 times ( (4.8+7.5)/4.8 ) or is it less because once the water is hot it doesn't need the same amount of energy to keep it warm. Or does it matter? Just take the energy rating and compare what it would cost for oil to provide that versus wood pellets or wood/coal?

So far we've been quoted ~2.7k + VAT for the additional plumbing costs to connect the back boiler into the system, on top of the cost of retrofitting for zoned plumbing, expect the back boiler version of the stove will cost a few hundred extra as well so assume 3.4k (2.7k*1.135 + 300 for a back boiler stove over standard).

Looking at https://www.seai.ie/resources/publications/Domestic-Fuel-Cost-Comparisons.pdf
Our recent oil delivery puts the oil cost for delivered kWh would come to 6.66c (((€475/700l)/10.18)*100)
Correspondingly looking at http://www.leinsterpellets.com/index.php/fuel/bulk-wood-pellets.html puts wood pellets at 0.26€/kg with a cost for delivered kWh being 5.42c (((€265/1000kg)/4.8) * 100).
So 1.24c cheaper to heat with wood pellets per kWh

I'm ignoring the cost of having the room with the stove adding an overhead of 4.8kW to heating the rest of the house as I'm assuming that in general it only makes sense to use just the stove for heating if it was going to be lit anyway.

Assuming that it would make sense to run the stove with back boiler for 8hrs of the day for ~ 2/3 of the year (assuming someone was home all day) to provide 7.5kW of heat to the rest of the house:
8*242*7.5*0.0124 = €180 saving
Trying with 13.5kW
8*242*13.5*0.0124 = €324 saving

That seems like it would only make sense if you needed the 13.5kW to heat the downstairs radiators and hot water (ignores the wastage for heating the hot water if you only need heat as fully zoned for the oil boiler it shouldn't heat the hot water as well), and would still require 10 years at current prices assuming we could get a pellet stove as I've found it difficult to calculate with logs, but I suspect the pellets are more cost efficient anyway. Or cost of oil needs to jump a fair bit to make it economical?

This also ignores the cost of storage for the wood pellets, which is another cost in addition to the integration of the back boiler.

Is there anything that I'm not considering in regards to determining cost of heating that should be included? Is oil likely to increase by 10-15% more than wood in the next few years?

gaius c

We have a large and long kitchen. It's pretty cold in winter. Insulation upgrade is a pending project as we've already done 80% of the house but kitchen needs to wait at least another year. Luckily there's a fireplace in the room already and we're thinking of getting a stove for it. The chimney used to be on the external wall but previous owners did an extension so chimney is now on an internal wall.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Advice?

Backboilers? Presume the retrofit and integration with an existing heating system (gas) would make it prohibitively expensive?
Would be happy enough with a standard stove but the thought of wasting all that heat out the chimney...

gillad

gaius c wrote: »

We have a large and long kitchen. It's pretty cold in winter. Insulation upgrade is a pending project as we've already done 80% of the house but kitchen needs to wait at least another year. Luckily there's a fireplace in the room already and we're thinking of getting a stove for it. The chimney used to be on the external wall but previous owners did an extension so chimney is now on an internal wall.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Advice?

Backboilers? Presume the retrofit and integration with an existing heating system (gas) would make it prohibitively expensive?
Would be happy enough with a standard stove but the thought of wasting all that heat out the chimney...

A stove without a backboiler would heat that room up very well..they dont waste a lot of heat and you will have so much heat off it,you may be glad at times to loose some up the chimney:).....it would be much cheaper than a boiler model to put in and since your chimney is in the centre of the house you may not need a flexi flue as the chimney will not get too cold...so just the price of the stove,a flue adapter and some stove pipe and you have a warm kitchen for the winter

Shefwedfan

Just wondering, I currently have Glenmore 30B installed. I was thinking of swapping it out for wood pellet stove with back boiler.

Just wondering would it be a big job to connect everything in? or simple as everything in place?

Also would it be better in terms of heat to water? I find the stove is hard to get up to heat and then quickly loses it unless I put in a full bag of coal

thekooman

just thought i would upload as it might help someone with ideas for a fire surround



we had an old brick fireplace and my wife hated it so it had to come out. spent a day kango'ing it out and cleaning after. Spent another hour or so before tiling kango'ing out the old tiles and adhesive...dirty work!

We went with a porcelain tile (600 x 300) for the hearth and stone effect tile for the insert area. We didnt remove the Erin stove so had to jack it up and remove legs to get it tiled under... bit of mare! :rolleyes:



still needs to be filled and painted and we are getting a chrome trim (made to order for 100) to finish around the edge of insert. I bought some rechargeable LED downlighters from amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06Y2SGWMQ/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item so hope they stick the heat.



got the idea from here:



hope this is of help to someone.
total cost will be < 1000.
will post a finished pic again.

EDIT: someone asked about how much and since its not finished yet here is a guess-imate
Ripping out - FREE as completed myself.
Tiles - 350 euro
Tiler - not paid yet but around 150 to 200.
Painter - not paid yet but again around 150 to 200.
Chrome/stainless steel (satin finish) trim surround (bespoke by a Stainless steel specialist) is 90
Have the paint and the painter is providing the filler etc.
Not putting up any shelf for the moment.
bought LED remote timer rechargeable lights for underneath - 40 euro.
Trim for around tiles to floor - 20 euro.
TOTAL = max of 900...more than likely around 850.

Shefwedfan

thekooman wrote: »

Painter - not paid yet but again around 150 to 200.
.

I will paint it for 150

thekooman

Shefwedfan wrote: »

I will paint it for 150

painted for 80 will get a pic of the finished stove area up in the next few days.

COST:
Ripping out - FREE as completed myself.
Tiles - 350 euro
Tiler - 170.
Painter - 80.
Chrome/stainless steel (satin finish) trim surround (bespoke by a Stainless steel specialist) is 70
Have the paint and the painter is providing the filler etc.
Not putting up any shelf for the moment.
bought LED remote timer rechargeable lights for underneath - 40 euro.
Trim for around tiles to floor - 20 40 euro as fecked it up putting down!
removed rail on internals of Stanley Erin door - 50 (local engineering firm)
stove paint to paint door - 15 euro
new rope, glue and glass for Erin door - 85 euro.
pay guy to service Stove and install rope / glass, etc - 20 euro.
TOTAL = 920 euro

soap1978

how safe is a timber mantel above a free standing stove,i am looking ar 16 inchs

gillad

soap1978 wrote: »

how safe is a timber mantel above a free standing stove,i am looking ar 16 inchs

It depends on the stove.A NO boiler will throw out more heat than a boiler,a 6kw is different than a 20kw............it should state the min .distances in the manual for the stove

thekooman

thekooman wrote: »

just thought i would upload as it might help someone with ideas for a fire surround



we had an old brick fireplace and my wife hated it so it had to come out. spent a day kango'ing it out and cleaning after. Spent another hour or so before tiling kango'ing out the old tiles and adhesive...dirty work!

We went with a porcelain tile (600 x 300) for the hearth and stone effect tile for the insert area. We didnt remove the Erin stove so had to jack it up and remove legs to get it tiled under... bit of mare! :rolleyes:



still needs to be filled and painted and we are getting a chrome trim (made to order for 100) to finish around the edge of insert. I bought some rechargeable LED downlighters from amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06Y2SGWMQ/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item so hope they stick the heat.



got the idea from here:



hope this is of help to someone.
total cost will be < 1000.
will post a finished pic again.

EDIT: someone asked about how much and since its not finished yet here is a guess-imate
Ripping out - FREE as completed myself.
Tiles - 350 euro
Tiler - not paid yet but around 150 to 200.
Painter - not paid yet but again around 150 to 200.
Chrome/stainless steel (satin finish) trim surround (bespoke by a Stainless steel specialist) is 90
Have the paint and the painter is providing the filler etc.
Not putting up any shelf for the moment.
bought LED remote timer rechargeable lights for underneath - 40 euro.
Trim for around tiles to floor - 20 euro.
TOTAL = max of 900...more than likely around 850.

nearly finished... just need to Tec7 the trim on.

soap1978

gillad wrote:

It depends on the stove.A boiler will throw out more heat than a nonboiler,a 6kw is different than a 20kw............it should state the min .distances in the manual for the stove

Its non boiler 8kw

NIMAN

Anyone know where I could pick up a replacement handle for an old Waterford Stanley stove?

Its a Shamrock model, very old...the handle on it appears to have been changed out by previous owners, and its falling apart and not tightening enough to close the doors.

I am sure its possible to add a new handle?

Shefwedfan

Just looking for recommendations, I have decided to remove the Green 8kw stove from sitting room. It is just not useful in regards to longer term. So I am going to replace with wood pellet stove. Standalone.

Based on my sizing I think I need about 6-8kw stove. Just wondering what recommendations? Checked a few places and looking at around 1500 before installation

gillad

soap1978 wrote: »

Its non boiler 8kw

Its going to get hot at 16 inches....the min distance to combustible materials on my stove is 37 inches.

my first comment was backwards....a non boiler will throw out more heat

soap1978

gillad wrote:

Its going to get hot at 16 inches....the min distance to combustible materials on my stove is 37 inches.

gillad wrote:

my first comment was backwards....a non boiler will throw out more heat

Noy good i am going for 24 inchs from top of stove to bottom of timber,the timber will sit out 5 inchs

gillad

soap1978 wrote: »

Noy good i am going for 24 inchs from top of stove to bottom of timber,the timber will sit out 5 inchs

It should be ok.My last stove was a 6kw oisin and it got very hot...i had a timber mantel about 22 inches above it and there was no problems with it but keep an eye on it

Davidkiller

Hi what temp should radiators be mine are only hitting 43 degrees with only two single radiators turned on thanks

soap1978

is there a way of protecting the bottom of the mantel,eg
Zeroflame Fire Retardant Treatment

Muahahaha

http://stoneandstoves.ie/product/porto-600-double-sided-10kw/
Im just wondering how does extraction work for stoves like the above that are double sided? Where does the pipe go to connect it to outdoors, is the pipe hidden between ceiling and upstairs floor or exposed hanging from the ceiling over towards an external wall?

Also when using a double sided stove like the above what options are available in materials can the wall encasing it be made of to withstand the heat? Does it need a stone/block base to hold the weight of the stove and then some other matieral at the sides and above it? Or does the entire wall have to be block?

john_doe.

Was wondering does anyone know where to find the model number of a Boru Stove?

gillad

john_doe. wrote: »

Was wondering does anyone know where to find the model number of a Boru Stove?

I have a boru.There is no id stamp on it....Go to their website and compare, is the best way to id it