Car Losing Drive/ Cutting Out While Driving

Vinny-Chase · 21-07-2011 11:02am #1

Last couple of weeks my 02 Mondeo MK3 has started cutting out while driving. I had the alternator done a few a weeks ago and has only happened since getting that done. However I brought it back to have the alternator checked yesterday and that's the not the problem.

Basically the first time I noticed it happening I noticed the dials dropped for a split second and then a little up the road I lost drive. Pulled over, restarted and all was grand. It seems to be happening a bit more often now.

Here's the interesting part. I've noticed if the car cuts out and I turn the ignition off and then back to the "on" position (where normally all the lights appear on the dash) that the car kicks back in and it drives on normally.

Has any one any thoughts? I'm lost

roberto_98 · 21-07-2011 11:21am

i don't know much about mondeos but i had a similar problem with an escort few years back. Same kinda symptoms where the car dials were dropping and it would cut out. It turned out to be the idle speed control valve. Hope this helps.

Vinny-Chase · 21-07-2011 11:27am

Thanks for that Roberto. I only noticed the dials dropping once. It's happened about 10 - 15 times since. Maybe they have dropped and I didn't notice.

Was it an expensive job?

crosshair1 · 21-07-2011 12:15pm

Is it a Tdci?

Vinny-Chase · 21-07-2011 12:23pm

2.0 TDI

crosshair1 · 21-07-2011 6:04pm

is it TDCI or TDDI

Vinny-Chase · 21-07-2011 7:20pm

Eh, I'm not sure Crosshair. :? How would I find that out? It's 2002 Mk3 Zetec, if that's any help? Sorry for not having more info.

Vinny-Chase · 25-07-2011 5:25pm

It's a DI Crosshair.
Just as an update. The car is actually stalling while it's driving. Took a mechanic mate in the car with me and he said it's stalling. Ordinarily it would be very rare for me to get the car up to 3200 RPM but 5 or 6 times he tried it and every time it stalled at 3200rpm.

I'd never be driving it at those revs. Normally I drive between 2-2.5.

But basically the full problem is the car is stalling while driving and will stall every time the car hits 3200rpm.

Any help? :?

Plug · 25-07-2011 5:36pm

The only thing to do is get fault codes read through Ford IDS. That will read all codes as universal diagnostic computers might not. I can only speculate here as we haven't a clue whats going on(you need the fault codes read) but it could be something as simple as a dirty fuel filter or worst case senareo pump or injectors:(
If they are no fault codes try do a fuel leak back test.

Does it only stall at 3200rpm?

Vinny-Chase · 25-07-2011 5:41pm

Fitted the new fuel filter the other day. That's when mechanic took it out to try it.

No not only at 3200. Normally happens when just regular driving. But every time he took it up to 3200 it stalled.

Plug · 25-07-2011 6:22pm

Vinny-Chase wrote: »

Fitted the new fuel filter the other day. That's when mechanic took it out to try it.

No not only at 3200. Normally happens when just regular driving. But every time he took it up to 3200 it stalled.

You should get them codes read with IDS. It might be a wiring problem, it can be lots of reasons. At least if you get them codes read you will have somewhere to put your foot.

Vinny-Chase · 06-09-2011 7:24pm

Got a diagnostic done and it was coming back with a Cam Shaft error. Had that replaced and it's still the same. Mechanic brought it to a friend of his who ran a full Ford diagnostic on it and couldn't come back with anything definite except a "can"? error. Something is sending an error to the ECU.

I'm fit to pull my hair out at this stage!

tyney · 06-09-2011 8:09pm

Had an almost identical problem on a diesel primera. Lots of hair pulling, but eventually correctly diagnosed as a worn pump. Main dealer quoted 4k. Luckily I got it reconditioned and promptly sold it on. Used to freak me out when it happened on bends and power steering went.

Vinny-Chase wrote: »

Got a diagnostic done and it was coming back with a Cam Shaft error. Had that replaced and it's still the same. Mechanic brought it to a friend of his who ran a full Ford diagnostic on it and couldn't come back with anything definite except a "can"? error. Something is sending an error to the ECU.

I'm fit to pull my hair out at this stage!

Vinny-Chase · 06-09-2011 8:11pm

Mechanic reckoned it might the fuel pump but reckoned because it started straight away and had no problems starting that it wasn't. Did you have any problems starting? When mine cuts out if I turn the key back to start position it carries on driving.

Plug · 06-09-2011 8:19pm

Them 'can' codes are usually just a phantom code. They can pop up for no reason or for a reason. What else did it say about the can code? Im fairly sure the immobiliser is built into the instrument cluster on these but that dosen't explain why it kept cutting out at 3200rpm. I know the pumps can give bother on the transits and these are similar set ups.

tyney · 06-09-2011 8:23pm

Vinny-Chase wrote: »

Mechanic reckoned it might the fuel pump but reckoned because it started straight away and had no problems starting that it wasn't. Did you have any problems starting? When mine cuts out if I turn the key back to start position it carries on driving.

No problem starting. I used to clutch in, wait a second or two, then let the clutch back out. Never failed to fire back up. The diesel gurus said that poor filter maintenance leads to water in the fuel, and those pumps have very tight tolerances. Any corrosion causes accelerated wear. Sounded plausible enough at the time.

Karma · 06-09-2011 8:25pm

hi, check the electrical cables for the fuel injection, maybe frayed and usually only happens when driving. sounds similar to what happened to my lancia(top of engine, rugging off the bonnet) a month to spot that and 1 min to fix it.
hope this helps...

ants09 · 06-09-2011 10:45pm

hi vinni chase symptoms is dials would either go up or down and back to normal ?, car would cut out while driving ? if you turn the ignition off and back on again the car would keep driving ? and also car would cut out and not start for around 5 min's ?? i had the same symptoms on my car but it wasnt a for but i change me cam shaft sensors as thats what the ecu was telling me the problem was but didnt solve the problem

i also had to change the crank shaft sensors and it sorted it out and now happy driving

Vinny-Chase · 07-09-2011 8:13am

Ants, sometimes the dials dip for a split second and then back to normal position. The car has no problems starting tho. Thanks for all the help lads, might find a problem yet.

Vinny-Chase · 07-09-2011 8:18am

Plug wrote: »

Them 'can' codes are usually just a phantom code. They can pop up for no reason or for a reason. What else did it say about the can code? Im fairly sure the immobiliser is built into the instrument cluster on these but that dosen't explain why it kept cutting out at 3200rpm. I know the pumps can give bother on the transits and these are similar set ups.

There's so many different things. Now it seems to cut out at the lower gears more often. Drove from Kildare to Dublin the other night in the rain and it only happened once. I thought perhaps it might have something to do with the cooler temperature...(I dunno at this stage I'm clutching at straws anyway). Last night from starting and could barely make it up to 4th gear without it cutting out about 20 times around 1500rpm. I found getting home that if I barely feathered the throttle peddle that it seemed to be ok.

ants09 · 07-09-2011 8:37am

Vinny-Chase wrote: »

Ants, sometimes the dials dip for a split second and then back to normal position. The car has no problems starting tho. Thanks for all the help lads, might find a problem yet.

hi vinny

my dials were the same use to dip for a second and i had no problem starting the car. it was only when she was up and running and warm did she conk out and at first i was able to restart her but then i use to have to leave her for a few minutes but since i got those sensors change she's running smooth

Vinny-Chase · 07-09-2011 10:10am

I'll just get the crank shaft sensor and hope for the best. At this stage it's the cheapest option and with the grace of God that will sort it before I leave a lit rag in the fuel tank

Vinny-Chase · 07-09-2011 10:26am

Scratch that! Was just in with the mechanic and it was actually the crank shaft sensor he replaced not the cam shaft sensor. That was my mistake. So, still back to square 1

aujopimur · 07-09-2011 10:38am

Try disconnecting the MAF for a while to see if the problem disapears.

Vinny-Chase · 07-09-2011 10:40am

MAF aujopimur?

couldntthink · 07-09-2011 5:19pm

I know you've already said tddi, but are you positive it's not common rail.

Plug · 07-09-2011 5:48pm

If yours is a 115 tddi it has a lift pump on the external of the tank. It is behind the right rear wheel arch liner. Make sure the connections are all ok here, maybe do a fuel pressure test..

Taltos · 07-09-2011 5:52pm

Had this issue a few years ago with a Renault - in my case the loom was being pressed on and over time a short was being caused. Normally stalled on me just when I was going up a slight incline and normally at low speed.

Garage went through circles before manufacturer told them of this "fault" in the design - once they took out the offending bracket hey presto all fixed.

aujopimur · 07-09-2011 6:35pm

Vinny-Chase wrote: »

MAF aujopimur?

MAF Mass Air Flow meter, its fitted on the air intake usually just after the air filter, if you unplug the electrical lead on it and the problem clears a replacement will cure your problem.

Vinny-Chase · 08-09-2011 8:47am

couldntthink wrote: »

I know you've already said tddi, but are you positive it's not common rail.

Just checked again and the badge on the engine cover says DI.

As you all know I'm REALLY clutching at straws on this one. The only times I've noticed it not happening lately is when I've been driving in the rain/ when the ambient temp has been cooler. Driving to Dublin the other evening, driving home yesterday and to work this morning it didn't happen when the temp was showing as 11 degrees. Again this could be absolutely nothing but you have as much info as I have

Vinny-Chase · 20-09-2011 8:34am

I brought it back to the mechanic after it was still happening after replacing the crank shaft. Here's the errors that were being read:

U1900 - Can Communication Bus Fault
Receive Error

P1665 - Injection pump control module communications

P0335 - Crankshaft position sensor
A. Circuit Malfunction

Any of that information shed any light on the subject?

Plug · 20-09-2011 5:52pm

P1665 - Fuel injection pump control module, ECM or wiring

P0335 - ECM, crankshaft position sensor, or wiring

As for the first code I'd say thats just a 'phantom' code.

I'd test all the wirings, can he get a wiring diagram. Test the wires that go from the module on the pump back to the instrument panel. I think there could be a communications error between the both.

ford jedi · 20-09-2011 7:36pm

think your problem is the wires from the cht rubbing against the power steering belt tensioner if you loook down on the power steering pulley you will see the heavy red wire and two other wires ,, make sure they are not earthing against the allumimum tensioner ..;)

Plug · 22-09-2011 6:43am

@Ford jedi, is the immobiliser in the instrument panel in these Mondeos?

Vinny-Chase · 22-09-2011 8:27am

Thanks guys. All stuff to pass on. My head is truly melted at this stage.
CHT Jedi?

Tombones · 18-10-2015 1:21pm

I got the same problem in a '98 suzuki swift. Its headwrecking. Any progress ever made on this issue? I'm guessing you scrapped it.

Vinny-Chase · 18-10-2015 1:30pm

Tombones wrote: »

I got the same problem in a '98 suzuki swift. Its headwrecking. Any progress ever made on this issue? I'm guessing you scrapped it.

There was a lose or frayed wire near the fuel pump I think. It was definitely something to do with the fuel pump or intake. A wire that had been pinched or something.

Car Losing Drive/ Cutting Out While Driving

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