Snake not eating?

Cameron Poe

Looks like a texas rat snake. I doubt it's a corn.

Cameron Poe

theg81der wrote: »

OMG I feel sick after reading this thread thats me not going to sleep tonight! I saw the title and all I was going to say was if your friend has a kid or anything that size get them out of the house clearly getting ready to eat something.

Nonsense. Hilarious though.

tallus

It's not an Royal Python that's for sure, deffo looks like a rat snake of some sort.

Hellrazer

tallus wrote: »

It's not an Royal Python that's for sure, deffo looks like a rat snake of some sort.

Yep definately a Rat Snake--shouldnt really be trying chicks though.

Heres a post I made regarding Royals a while back.Same stuff applies to any snake not eating.

Royals have a habit of just going off their food for no reason whatsoever.


Picky little feckers they can be.

Few things to try.

1.Get different coloured mice.Black,brown etc.Sometimes this is all it takes to get them back eating again.

2.Brain the mouse--cut into the head with a sharp blade until the brain is exposed.The brain smell can also stimulate feeding.

3.Rub the mouse off a lizard,snake or other reptile.Again this can start a feeding response.

If all this fails and only if you notice weight loss then force feeding is recommended.If youve never done this before then get help.

Bear in mind that Royals usually start feeding again on their own without any of the above help and its only if you notice weight loss then a vets help is needed to force feed.

Hope this helps,

Richie.

Degsy

Hellrazer wrote: »

Yep definately a Rat Snake--shouldnt really be trying chicks though.

Hehe..i related this fact to the previous owner with great relish..he was obvioulsy sold the snake by a less than scrupulous dealer!

Why is it not good to give it chicks though?

Hellrazer

Degsy wrote: »

Hehe..i related this fact to the previous owner with great relish..he was obvioulsy sold the snake by a less than scrupulous dealer!

Why is it not good to give it chicks though?

The hint is in the name of the snake

Seriously though a chick wont usually have enough calcium for a snake.And its better to feed mice/rats though for a more balanced diet.

Hellrazer

Degsy--where are you based?
I think you might need more intervention.

Ive just been thinking about this and a comment Tallus made earlier in the thread and it may be down to the colder weather we`re having.

Up the temps a bit in the viv and see if it makes any difference.

Nine months is a very long time for a Ratsnake not to eat and Id start being concerned.

I have only ever force fed one snake in my life and it was a nasty horrible job but if you know what what youre doing its not too hard to do.

tallus

Kudos to Cameron Poe for spotting the snake wasn't a Royal Python to begin with.

I have to agree with Hellrazer on the force feeding thing, I saw a Royal Python being force fed around 20 years back and it was deffo a nasty thing to have to do, the snake died not long after.
It's also an excellent sign that you have the snake feeding Degsy so at least you're doing more than your mate did.
I meant to ask, does that Ceramic heater have a thermostat connected Degsy? if not it could be very problematic, as they do get really hot if not regulated.

Cameron Poe

I agree about the ceramic. Chances are it's too hot with a ceramic in that size tank. Do you know what the temperature is? Are you leaving the food in overnight after it's refused. If not give that a go. If you want to go the force feeding route I'd be inclined to drop it in to one of the better shops overnight and have them do it. I'm sure Ben in Reptile Haven or the lads in Fins,Fur,Feathers wouldn't have a problem doing it for you. It doesn't look particularly underweight but it's hard to tell from the pictures.

Hellrazer

Cameron Poe wrote: »

I agree about the ceramic. Chances are it's too hot with a ceramic in that size tank.

Being hot speeds up a snakes metabolism--Ive never seen a snake that was too hot refuse food--they usually are more active and are looing for feed outside their normal feeding schedule.

Do you know what the temperature is?

Always worth knowing^ exact temps.Id actually change the ceramic for a spot bulb.Some ceramics are Infrared based and will only raise the snakes temps by a couple of degrees and not the actual air temperature which is what you want.Easier to tell if its working aswell.I never ever trusted ceramics and only ever use spot bulbs(40-80watts) on a timer switch--12hrs on and 12 off with the heat mat on at night--this should give a decent gradient..

Are you leaving the food in overnight after it's refused. If not give that a go.

Agreed--leave it in an open paper bag over night and check in the morning.

If you want to go the force feeding route I'd be inclined to drop it in to one of the better shops overnight and have them do it. I'm sure Ben in Reptile Haven or the lads in Fins,Fur,Feathers wouldn't have a problem doing it for you.

Both of these know their stuff more than anyone else I could recommend.

It doesn't look particularly underweight but it's hard to tell from the pictures.

Can we get more pics by any chance degsy?

tallus

He could easily get a ballpark temp with those aquarium gradient type stickers if he put one at the top of the viv and one at the bottom, I also think the feeding isn't going to be a huge issue now as the snake has already taken a chick.
Does the ceramic have something similar to the items listed here.
Usually, if there's a thermostat present, there will be a black probe on the end of it that you can "dangle" near the ceramic to regulate the temperature. I didn't notice one in the photos.

Cameron Poe

It may increase their metabolism but a snake kept too hot over a long period can not only cause it to stop feeding but can also kill it (depending how hot it is obviously). I've seen this happen.

I also disagree on the ceramics. I've used these for over 10 years and their main benefit is that they do heat the air temperature, making them desirable for larger vivs. They will also dry the air out dropping humidity to very low levels. I agree with Tallus though that they should only really be used in conjunction with a thermostat.

A thermometer is most definitely needed to see exactly what the story is anyway. From the pictures it also looks like there is no hide present. I'd get one in so as the snake feels more secure.

Hellrazer

Cameron Poe wrote: »

It may increase their metabolism but a snake kept too hot over a long period can not only cause it to stop feeding but can also kill it (depending how hot it is obviously). I've seen this happen.

Ive only ever seen it happen with a faulty stat.Otherwise with a decent gradient and a supply of water then even higher temps can be ok.

I also disagree on the ceramics. I've used these for over 10 years and their main benefit is that they do heat the air temperature, making them desirable for larger vivs. They will also dry the air out dropping humidity to very low levels. I agree with Tallus though that they should only really be used in conjunction with a thermostat.

We`ll agree to disagree so--Ive had nothing but bother with ceramic both for snakes and other herps.Ive always found bulbs easier to use--maybe thats just me though<<<I like to be able to see whats heating my animals.Then again Im not fond of heat mats either after seeing one overheat.

A thermometer is most definitely needed to see exactly what the story is anyway. From the pictures it also looks like there is no hide present. I'd get one in so as the snake feels more secure.

Couldnt agree more--a thermometer is a definate must and a hide even an empty butter container with one side cut out of it would do the job.

Degsy

Hi folks..the temp with the heatlamp on seems to stay around 26 degrees...it certainly doesnt feel too hot under the lamp.
Anyway..i tried the snake last night with a mouse and he wolfed it!

aboutimeilogin!

thats a bullsnake by the way and a longer viv would be better to create a heat gradient.
deffo stick a thermostat on that ceramic. high temps can and do kill snakes!
do not force feed this snake as there are too many reasons why it may not feed.
i see it has eaten for you, leave it alone for a week or so before you offer food again.

tallus

If you could lie the viv on it's side, it might suit better short term either way Degsy.
Congrats getting the snake to feed. You're probably safer disconnecting that ceramic and just relying on a heat mat.

Degsy

Gave the snake another mouse on wednesday and this time he wasted no time at all..i also noticed he has become much more placid and easier to handle..whatever his problem was he seems to be over it!:)