CS250 Set Up

antomag

i was just given an aritech cs250, i know its an old system but it is new in box, ive installed it with some contacts sensors and 1 pir. i have no sabb or internal bell or back up battery connected yet. manual says on first power up i will be asked to iniotialise system by pressing NO and #, but i am not getting this, its saying alarm and has a date from a few years ago on display, should have i not connected up anything until; i program

KoolKid

It will still programme up fine. If the keypad is responding OK just work away with it.

altor

antomag wrote: »

i was just given an aritech cs250, i know its an old system but it is new in box, ive installed it with some contacts sensors and 1 pir. i have no sabb or internal bell or back up battery connected yet. manual says on first power up i will be asked to iniotialise system by pressing NO and #, but i am not getting this, its saying alarm and has a date from a few years ago on display, should have i not connected up anything until; i program

Sounds like the system was already set up and is in alarm. You will need either the user and engineer code or the system flashed to bring it back to factory settings.
Default is 1122 User. 1278 Engineer.

antomag

thanks those codes worked, wired up everything. some new contacts and sensors and 1 pir. i put resistor in series with these, i had an existing older aritech that i just moved some zones from. i installed a new hkc sabb. when i try to set it comes up EXT TAMP. know this might be the bell but done bell test and all worked. bell has built in resistor so did not put one at panel. any help

altor

antomag wrote: »

thanks those codes worked, wired up everything. some new contacts and sensors and 1 pir. i put resistor in series with these, i had an existing older aritech that i just moved some zones from. i installed a new hkc sabb. when i try to set it comes up EXT TAMP. know this might be the bell but done bell test and all worked. bell has built in resistor so did not put one at panel. any help

Take out the left side of the resistor in the external bell and join the cable with the resistor leg and put back in. The other cable goes in the SABB hold off.
This is wired into the external tamper in the control panel. To test you have the right terminals in the control panel put in a 4k7 resistor. This should close the external tamper, take out resistor then connect the bell cables to it.

antomag

altor, done all the above, wiring looks right, put resistor across tamper in panel, one with the hammer, but still says ext tamp

altor

antomag wrote: »

altor, done all the above, wiring looks right, put resistor across tamper in panel, one with the hammer, but still says ext tamp

Are you sure you have it in the proper terminals ?
Have you got a manual to see the external tamper in the panel ?

antomag

have the sabb manual and cs250 manual...on sabb i have strobe going to small bell ( internal bell) sabb external bell going to big bell ( external bell) on panel.... then i have sabb BHO going to bell hold off on panel and tamper resistor on sabb going to tamper return on panel.......i did put resistor accross tamper in panel and still showing ext tamp on keypad.....i trhink ill give up

fred funk }{

Can you post a picture of the wiring in the panel, might help.

altor

antomag wrote: »

have the sabb manual and cs250 manual...on sabb i have strobe going to small bell ( internal bell) sabb external bell going to big bell ( external bell) on panel.... then i have sabb BHO going to bell hold off on panel and tamper resistor on sabb going to tamper return on panel.......i did put resistor accross tamper in panel and still showing ext tamp on keypad.....i trhink ill give up

Make sure it is a 4k7 resistor or it will still show open. The resistor you got with the HKC SABB is 4k7. It is the first two terminals where the hammer is.

antomag

ok when i wired up sabb as per instructions and using resistor in situ in sabb t came up EXT TAMP. when i put a resistor that came with cs250 across the HAMMER connections in cs250 it came up Ext Tamp.

fred funk }{

Sounds like there's a problem with the panel, very unusual to be honest.
Post a picture up of the resistor wired into the panel just so we can be sure the connections are correct.
Did you try power down and up again?

antomag

just to let you know im new to this alarm lark, forgot to say across the tamper ( hammers ) on cs250 i also have a pir tamper connection, when i put the resistor directly across tamper in panel the pir and sabb tamper wires where still in situ too

fred funk }{

Remove all cables. Wire the resistor in by itself. If it closes then wire the bell in on its own with the resistor removed from the panel but in the bell. If it's okay leave it be. You shouldnt have the beam tamper wired in there anyway. Why not have it wired into its zone?

antomag

the diagram that came with pir says terminals 3 and 4 to voltage on panel, term 5 and 6 to zone on panel terminal 1 and 2 are tamper so i put them to tamper on panel. the resistor in pir is on zone wiring

fred funk }{

If you don't have a spare zone for the tamper you should wire the beam 'dual' which means using two resistors in the beam. I don't gave a diagram to hand as I'm posting from my phone but Altor normally has diagrams so maybe he'll post one up for you.

The alternative is to not use the tamper, it's not really essential especially for a self install. Might be handier for you that way.

Is the bell tamper now closed?

antomag

i am not sure what you mean when you say spare zone for tamper, the panel has tamper teminals that i have the sabbs BHO and tamper return in and i also have the tamper for the PIR paralleled into this too. do you think i should take the tamper for the pir off and if so what to i do with the wires just short them

fred funk }{

It shouldn't be pararelled for starters, it would mean both tampers would have to be open at the same for the tamper to activate.

Your panel has eight zones, you can programme each zone for different things like fire, panic, tamper etc. If you had a zone that you haven't used you could wire your beam tamper into it and programme it as tamper in the zone types menu.

If you don't want to do any of that then don't anything with the cable, leave it out. The beam doesn't need a tamper to work.

altor

antomag wrote: »

the diagram that came with pir says terminals 3 and 4 to voltage on panel, term 5 and 6 to zone on panel terminal 1 and 2 are tamper so i put them to tamper on panel. the resistor in pir is on zone wiring

That is incorrect, terminals 1 and 2 are for the 12v for any devices that you need power for. 3, 4 and 5 are for the keypad. I would not advise to connect any devices to the alarm without tampering them. Please find diagram below for dual end of line wiring of the pirs. If wired this way then change the zones loop type to suit.

If you did decide to wire the detectors without the resistors you could use a zone or two to wire the tampers of the devices to.

fred funk }{

altor wrote: »

That is incorrect, terminals 1 and 2 are for the 12v for any devices that you need power for. 3, 4 and 5 are for the keypad. I would not advise to connect any devices to the alarm without tampering them. Please find diagram below for dual end of line wiring of the pirs. If wired this way then change the zones loop type to suit.

If you did decide to wire the detectors without the resistors you could use a zone or two to wire the tampers of the devices to.

Was he not referring to the beams wiring diagram?

antomag

yes those pin numbers where on the pir: 1 and 2 tamper 3 and 4 power 5 and 6 zone, as i said i had tampers for sabb and pir paralleled in the tamper in cs250. i will remove tamper wires from pir and see what happens.

altor

antomag wrote: »

yes those pin numbers where on the pir: 1 and 2 tamper 3 and 4 power 5 and 6 zone, as i said i had tampers for sabb and pir paralleled in the tamper in cs250. i will remove tamper wires from pir and see what happens.

If you can put the resistor in the control panel to rule out a problem with the tamper for the bell being the panel itself. If you wire up the PIR as I have suggested it will be better protected than having no tamper on it.

antomag

ok will try that ad let you kow

antomag

thanks for all the help sorted that, but one last thing, the old alarm had a panic attack button. i need to know how to wire this with just 2 wires, when i try to set alarm it says panic alarm zone tamper. at the moment i just have 2 wire from button going to zone with resistor in series. the othe 2 wires on the tamper for pa i have going nowhere, how can i do this if i onl;y have 2 wires, any help

fred funk }{

Don't use any resistors. Directly wire your pair from the panel into the terminals on the panic. Programme the 'loop type' as 'no EOL'.

antomag

only choice is single loop and dual loop.

antomag

ok i just connected pa using 2 wires no reistor. the panel zone is programmed as pa. in dual mode it shows up tamper fault,, in single mode the pa shows up as an open zone and wont let me arm

antomag

i put 4k7 resistor in series. pa now shows closed, when i do walk test i get nothing when i test pa

fred funk }{

I thought there was an option for no eol on the 250, ah well.

Programme it for single. Wire your two cables into the zone on the panel by themselves. At the PA there is two terminals, in one terminal wire in one leg of the resistor. In the other terminal wire in one of your cables. You are now left with one leg of the resistor and one cable. Twist them together and screw them into one of the spare screws that's on the PA. Put the lid back on the PA and you should be sorted.

altor

antomag wrote: »

thanks for all the help sorted that, but one last thing, the old alarm had a panic attack button. i need to know how to wire this with just 2 wires, when i try to set alarm it says panic alarm zone tamper. at the moment i just have 2 wire from button going to zone with resistor in series. the othe 2 wires on the tamper for pa i have going nowhere, how can i do this if i onl;y have 2 wires, any help

Hope this helps, always best to tamper your devices on the system

antomag

Alls good Almost... thanks for all the help. 1 last thing, when i had the initial EXT TAMP i went into programming and inhibited that, now when i set alarm it comes up that this is inhibited. any ideas how i cancel this,

antomag

all good it reset itself after disarming....thanks again for all the help

altor

antomag wrote: »

all good it reset itself after disarming....thanks again for all the help

Your welcome, if you have any other problems you know where we are

antomag

came close to chucking it in bin, but thanks to you guys i have a good alarm again

altor

antomag wrote: »

came close to chucking it in bin, but thanks to you guys i have a good alarm again

Thats what we are here for

It is a good system. I use to love installing the CS250, option for wire free also.

antomag

thanks to the great help here i installed my cs250 and all has been great for 3 weeks. Last night the internal sounder and only the internal sounder went off, went to knock it off but the keypad was dead, it stopped after the cut off time. done nothing with it last night but keypad was dead. this mornibg keypad is back to life, when i try to set alarm it said BUS TAMP FLT.........now 20 minutes later all seems ok but i put it in eng mode just so it does not go off, any ideas

antomag

as i said above all seems ok now but i left it in eng mode, iknow the message means some problem with connection of keypad. it cant be a person so should i just check that the connection at keypad and panel are secure, dont think there can be any damage in between

altor

antomag wrote: »

thanks to the great help here i installed my cs250 and all has been great for 3 weeks. Last night the internal sounder and only the internal sounder went off, went to knock it off but the keypad was dead, it stopped after the cut off time. done nothing with it last night but keypad was dead. this mornibg keypad is back to life, when i try to set alarm it said BUS TAMP FLT.........now 20 minutes later all seems ok but i put it in eng mode just so it does not go off, any ideas

A bus fault is related to any device connected to it. The keypad being dead would be a problem with the cable going to it. Checking these connections should solve the problem.

altor

antomag wrote: »

as i said above all seems ok now but i left it in eng mode, iknow the message means some problem with connection of keypad. it cant be a person so should i just check that the connection at keypad and panel are secure, dont think there can be any damage in between

It could be an problem with one of the cores in the cable connected to the keypad. I have seen this happen on cables caught in the keypad.

antomag

i used new cores to keypad and set the alarm last night, at 5 this morning internal siren went and keypad is dead again. no sign of it coming back... had to go out this mornibg...when i opened door internal went off again keypad still dead... moved keypad up to panel new 2 foot cable still dead, as temp measure had to kill power disconnect batt and allow external to ring out, this is doing my head. safe to say its not the cable

altor

antomag wrote: »

i used new cores to keypad and set the alarm last night, at 5 this morning internal siren went and keypad is dead again. no sign of it coming back... had to go out this mornibg...when i opened door internal went off again keypad still dead... moved keypad up to panel new 2 foot cable still dead, as temp measure had to kill power disconnect batt and allow external to ring out, this is doing my head. safe to say its not the cable

It could be a fault with the keypad. Can you bring the other one back and get a replacement ?

KoolKid

Can you check the battery?
The panel puts a load across the battery as a test at regular intervals.
If the battery is low or dead it can register bus tamp or could be drawing power from the panel.
Power up on mains only

antomag

ok it powered up on mains only, on the keypad i have a green power light and a flashing yellow trouble light. i presume this is to tell me batt is not connected. i will leave it like this for a couple of days to see if that is the trouble and if so get a new battery. teh battery is a year old but while i was changing over alarms it was not connected for a few days but it has been ok for the last 3 weeks,

altor

antomag wrote: »

ok it powered up on mains only, on the keypad i have a green power light and a flashing yellow trouble light. i presume this is to tell me batt is not connected. i will leave it like this for a couple of days to see if that is the trouble and if so get a new battery. teh battery is a year old but while i was changing over alarms it was not connected for a few days but it has been ok for the last 3 weeks,

The panel checks for the voltage coming from the battery, if it drops below a certain level it will come up as low battery and the yellow light will flash. Since this is only showing a fault now after a couple of weeks from the install it could be the control panel or the keypad causing the fault. What connections are you using in the control panel for the keypad ?

antomag

on panel im using connector 2 marked data output ( 01010) to same on keypad and then the connectors 3 marked + and - and connected to same on keypad. When it happened the other day the key pad was completely dead but came back after a while on power up but when tried to set it i got the BUS TAMP so checked wiring and all was ok. When it went this morning keypad was dead again, moved it up to panel on 2 foot of new wire and it would not come up. tried as Kool said to power it up with batt disconnected and it came up. with the battery now off i can set alarm but it comes back with FUSE Ft Batt. this i assume is because i have the batt disconnected. i might leave as is to see how it is for a few days. As i said the battery is about a year to a year and 6 months in old alarm and was then not connected to anything for a few days while i changed over

antomag

Kool i know you said low or dead battery can register as BUS TAMP but would it cause the keypad to loose all power

KoolKid

If the battery is very low it can. There is also a fault with some CS250s not charging batteries correctly.
Do you have access to a multi meter?
If so check the battery voltage while disconnected & also check the charge voltage on the battery leads.

altor

antomag wrote: »

on panel im using connector 2 marked data output ( 01010) to same on keypad and then the connectors 3 marked + and - and connected to same on keypad. When it happened the other day the key pad was completely dead but came back after a while on power up but when tried to set it i got the BUS TAMP so checked wiring and all was ok. When it went this morning keypad was dead again, moved it up to panel on 2 foot of new wire and it would not come up. tried as Kool said to power it up with batt disconnected and it came up. with the battery now off i can set alarm but it comes back with FUSE Ft Batt. this i assume is because i have the batt disconnected. i might leave as is to see how it is for a few days. As i said the battery is about a year to a year and 6 months in old alarm and was then not connected to anything for a few days while i changed over

It still does not explain why the keypad went dead. The fuses are re-settable on the CS250.
Can you go into installation, install peripherals. If there is a problem with the enrolling of the keypad you could also get a bus fault. Can you also check the version of software on the panel, it should be on the main board on a sticker.

antomag

i will check all this tomorrow, it has now been on for over 6 hours with no problem with batt disconnected. i will sheck voltages and software etc tomorrow

altor

antomag wrote: »

i will check all this tomorrow, it has now been on for over 6 hours with no problem with batt disconnected. i will sheck voltages and software etc tomorrow

Do, as it seems strange how it worked for a couple of weeks and now you are having problems. Keep us informed.

antomag

thanks again lads i will check and let you know tomorrow. if it goes off tonight i think i will be shot. do you think i should put in in eng mode over night just in case