Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules

The "Today I did something to my car" thread

1190191193195196325

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,690 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    166man wrote: »
    Sorry I should have added that I used polish before and after the renovater, not really too sure why! Any products or tips you would recommend? The paint is in pretty poor nick at this stage.

    If the paint is ni good nick and just dull then a DA is the way forward. If the paint is just bad then it is hard to say..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,575 ✭✭✭166man


    vectra wrote: »
    If the paint is ni good nick and just dull then a DA is the way forward. If the paint is just bad then it is hard to say..

    It's not a metallic black as far as I know, it's just a standard flat black, it's had a tough two years and has quite a bit of surface scratching on it with swirl marks being all over it. I understand it will never be perfect but even to get it in slightly better shape, do you reckon I have enough with the products I have or should I invest more? I hear all this talk on here of this ''blacklight'' stuff and jetseal?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,920 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    You won't be doing any paint correction until you start using a D/A and cutting polish. What you're doing is a paint enhancement by hand.

    The method you used is after stripping the polish from the paint when you used the renovator but I see you used it again afterwards.

    To be honest, anything you do will only have a short-term effect whereas a proper correction is what you need for long term results. If you have the time to be doing this and are happy to put so much effort into doing it for short-term outcome then work away but it's not ideal.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,575 ✭✭✭166man


    You won't be doing any paint correction until you start using a D/A and cutting polish. What you're doing is a paint enhancement by hand.

    The method you used is after stripping the polish from the paint when you used the renovator but I see you used it again afterwards.

    To be honest, anything you do will only have a short-term effect whereas a proper correction is what you need for long term results. If you have the time to be doing this and are happy to put so much effort into doing it for short-term outcome then work away but it's not ideal.

    Right thanks for that MM, I'm a complete newbie at this tbh.. I just don't think I could justify €160 for a D/A...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,920 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    166man wrote: »
    Right thanks for that MM, I'm a complete newbie at this tbh.. I just don't think I could justify €160 for a D/A...

    Didn't we have that discussion before? ;)

    Either that or you offer up the car for demos on a detailing day boards meet!


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,344 ✭✭✭gollywog


    166man wrote: »
    Right thanks for that MM, I'm a complete newbie at this tbh.. I just don't think I could justify €160 for a D/A...

    Didn't we have that discussion before? ;)

    Either that or you offer up the car for demos on a detailing day boards meet!

    I offer up my new car when I get it! Actually raging I put so much time into machining the audi and then decided I need a gti... I need my head examined!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,690 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    gollywog wrote: »
    I offer up my new car when I get it! Actually raging I put so much time into machining the audi and then decided I need a gti... I need my head examined!

    But surely it made the A4 easier to sell? :P

    Gave the Toledo another run of the D.A yesterday using finishing pad ( black ) and Menzerna Final Finish Polish P085RE,
    Topped it off with one coat of Collinits 845.
    Looking close to mint now.

    Pics of Sideskirts and shine later.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,344 ✭✭✭gollywog


    vectra wrote: »
    But surely it made the A4 easier to sell? :P

    Gave the Toledo another run of the D.A yesterday using finishing pad ( black ) and Menzerna Final Finish Polish P085RE,
    Topped it off with one coat of Collinits 845.
    Looking close to mint now.

    Pics of Sideskirts and shine later.

    Well yes theres that alright :) Just spent the morning washing it, clean and sealed the wheels, shine the tyres, cleaned the glass and sealed the paintwork. Looks decent. Need to valet the interior tommorrow and shell be in a passable state :)

    Vectra,
    Im after spending a good few quid getting products for a silver car, but the car im going to look at is red :rolleyes:
    I heard sealants dont work as well on red as a good wax, whats your thoughts?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,690 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    gollywog wrote: »
    Well yes theres that alright :) Just spent the morning washing it, clean and sealed the wheels, shine the tyres, cleaned the glass and sealed the paintwork. Looks decent. Need to valet the interior tommorrow and shell be in a passable state :)

    Vectra,
    Im after spending a good few quid getting products for a silver car, but the car im going to look at is red :rolleyes:
    I heard sealants dont work as well on red as a good wax, whats your thoughts?


    Funny thing you should mention that.
    My next car is going to be read as well :D

    On the flip side of the coin.

    I had some chemical guys Blitz when my son had the red civic. I tried it on it and it was really nice.
    The thing is that Sealants tend to give a more metallic ( colder ) shine
    Waxes appear to be warmer shine.

    I would hold tough until you get your car and try what you have.
    If you like it well and good.
    If not then the only extra is a decent wax.
    I am currently stuck on Collinite 845.
    Simple to use and a really nice finish on both white and black so possibly will do for my red one as well.

    HTH.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 594 ✭✭✭fanadman1


    ...or for anyone with a turbo, EGR valve and pipe :D

    whats the mr mucsle cleaner job ?


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,920 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    fanadman1 wrote: »
    whats the mr mucsle cleaner job ?

    It's to take all the caked-on carbon deposits off the inside of the EGR valve and EGR pipe. I got a CEL on my dash a while ago to say that the EGR recirc wasn't up to spec. This meant taking apart half the engine to get at the EGR valve and pipe, letting the oven cleaner sit in them for a while then scrubbing it off.

    It's a pain in the t!ts and on my car, it has to be done every 60,000km's. You don't even notice a difference, only 1 less orange light on the dash :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,668 ✭✭✭eringobragh


    ****ing Rain!

    The aldi trolley ain't gonna cut the mustard with the MR2 :(...couldn't even get the car up too the first notch on the axle stands.I realised its the first.

    time Ive used this jack since getting the car...I used the Halfords 3 tonne jack and was impressed with it, I recently got a halfords trade card so might look into one of these

    Anyway I decided while it was a dry day I'd get on with more rust proofing with the car on the ground...I've done the cavity inside the car...now I'm sorting the sill from within the arch..some oxidisation had started (but just specks)...I treated both sides with Hammerite Kurust (2 coats).

    img1382medium.jpg

    img1383medium.jpg

    img1418medium.jpg



    While that was drying I decided to clay and correct the rear bottom half drivers side..unfortunately the heavy cut pad (ideal for these gaps) is in bits

    after the meguiars scratch X ...I was able to make a start at it but need to correct a few small bits when the new pads arrive.

    Much the same as before...I'm going to post the previous owner a book: Washing Cars for Dummies :P

    BEFORE:

    img1387medium.jpg

    img1388medium.jpg

    AFTER:

    img1397medium.jpg


    (Still some correction due here but 80& improvment even with shite pad!)

    BEFORE:

    img1389medium.jpg

    img1392medium.jpg

    img1400medium.jpg

    AFTER:

    img1401mediumm.jpg


    BEFORE:


    img1390medium.jpg

    AFTER:

    img1398medium.jpg


    END RESULT:

    img1402mediumg.jpg


    ....and then there was rain!

    I really should be finished by now!! Small bit left to do.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,694 ✭✭✭✭L-M


    Will you do up a guide to that polishing?

    I have one, I use it but I've never been able to get that good of a result (Not that I'd want them on the Jag) but it'd be nice to know the correct proceedure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,668 ✭✭✭eringobragh


    Will you do up a guide to that polishing?

    I have one, I use it but I've never been able to get that good of a result (Not that I'd want them on the Jag) but it'd be nice to know the correct proceedure.

    Could do something up...think its the product more then the technique ;): menzerna PO203S with medium cut pad

    You have the Kestrel DAS-6?

    Thats the cutting polish on the panel BTW...I have yet to stick the LSP on the panel.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,694 ✭✭✭✭L-M


    Could do something up...think its the product more then the technique ;): menzerna PO203S with medium cut pad

    You have the Kestrel DAS-6?

    I do.

    I HAD pads until I decided to leave them soak in a bucket of water and washing powder, lol.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,668 ✭✭✭eringobragh


    I do.

    I HAD pads until I decided to leave them soak in a bucket of water and washing powder, lol.

    Are they fecked beyond repair..I presume you tried drying them out?

    Technique I had copied somewhere...think it was vectra who told me how to use the thing :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,694 ✭✭✭✭L-M


    Are they fecked beyond repair..I presume you tried drying them out?

    Technique I had copied somewhere...think it was vectra who told me how to use the thing :P

    Yeah, they're gone. The back came off one and the other is just literally a pad full of washing power. Might throw it into the machine, waste not want not :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,668 ✭✭✭eringobragh


    Yeah, they're gone. The back came off one and the other is just literally a pad full of washing power. Might throw it into the machine, waste not want not :pac:

    Just steep them in some virgin hot water next time ;)..thats all I do..speaking of which I've shredded 3 x 3.5" pads on my journey but they got some good use! Ive all my original 6.5" pads :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,668 ✭✭✭eringobragh


    Will you do up a guide to that polishing?

    I have one, I use it but I've never been able to get that good of a result (Not that I'd want them on the Jag) but it'd be nice to know the correct proceedure.

    Ok found it: It was Curran that posted it (see below mine):

    I'm a novice and my technique differs slightly but works for me:

    Applying some light pressure on the DA (Palm place on below)...........

    213785.jpg

    ........but allow the disk to spin freely (Mark the back plate with a maker like below so you know for sure its spinning:

    BlackMarkOnBackingPlate.jpg

    Speed 2, to spread the polish on one pass (don't let the disk spin) , move onto....
    Speed 3, to warm the polish up, two passes, move onto....
    Speed 4.5 - 5, to work polish until clear...4 passes.....move onto....
    Speed 2, to final refine...
    Buff off.

    Vary high speed when working with plastics! and check heat levels with fingers regulary...

    Tip:

    take your time moving the buffer should be moving an inch per second apply ample pressure but allowing the pad to spin freely.


    Curran wrote:

    Working at about 2500 / 3000 rpm will be safe.

    Generally.....
    Speed 1, to spread the polish on one pass, move onto....
    Speed 2, to warm the polish up, two passes, move onto....
    Speed 3, to work polish until clear...two or three passes.....move onto....
    Speed 2, to final refine...
    Buff off.

    Work in small sections, 12" x 12" sections...bigger and the polish dries out or not worked properly.
    Take your time, be patient, dont expect full correction in just one or two hits. A panel an evening, or two a day off and enjoy it, because it can get tedious.

    Hope this helps!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,690 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    I throw my pads in the washing machine with all my mf cloths,
    They come up a treat.

    As eringobraith said.
    Just enough pressure to not stop the pad spinning.
    I actually only allow the D.A's own weight when using the finishing pad. mayb just a slight bit of pressure.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,920 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    Don't we have a sub-forum for all this?! :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,106 ✭✭✭✭TestTransmission


    Don't we have a sub-forum for all this?! :P

    Yes, yes we do. :cool:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,668 ✭✭✭eringobragh


    Yes, yes we do. :cool:

    Don't shoot the messenger :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,690 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    Don't we have a sub-forum for all this?! :P

    Don't we have Moderators to split and move posts :P :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,694 ✭✭✭✭L-M


    Moving on ladies!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,234 ✭✭✭Ardennes1944


    Fitted the opc rear shocks, firmer but much less bouncy than before, job well done


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,920 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    firmer but much less bouncy than before

    Isn't that the point :confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,234 ✭✭✭Ardennes1944


    Yes, I didn't know how they would react in a heavier 5 door

    Ps....gtechniq rocks!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,555 ✭✭✭✭Marlow


    Topped up coolant and oil, then changed the wheels for my track wheels.

    Looks like I might be lucky to pick up a spot of somebody else in Mondello tomorrow, whose car has developed a fault.

    /M


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,575 ✭✭✭166man


    Yes, I didn't know how they would react in a heavier 5 door

    Ps....gtechniq rocks!

    Mind me asking which gtechniq product you used? I was gonna get some of the nano composite polish if it's any decent like...


This discussion has been closed.
Advertisement