Shooting in a new barrel

Tackleberrywho

Any tips on doing the above?

Currently have 40 rounds, fire,clean,fore,clean,.................

I have the new barrel on, I have to shoot her in (truflite 1/8 .223)

I also have several boxes of Moly rounds in 55 grain. is it better to use these in the run in period?(Them being Lube'd an'all)

I have Wolf ammo to get on paper.

Any of you guys who rebarreled, any tips yee picked up things yee did but regret or are glad yee did?

I only get to do this once.
I have 20 75 grain for Testing long range capabilities with, but I want to try her on 55 grain first to see how she fairs out

It wasn't me!

Don't run it in with any lubricant coating unless you intend using that for everything you shoot.

Cass

5 rounds, one at a time with a cleaning after each.

10 rounds, 2 at a time with a cleaning after each pair.

15 rounds, 3 at a time with a cleaning after each 3.

10 rounds, 5 at a time with a cleaning after each 5.


Total rounds needed = 40.


The TrueFlite barrels are match grade and do not need a massive/extensive breaking in period. Use non moly to break her in and use a moly paste to treat the barrel properly before using moly bullets in her.

On a side note, irrespective of how much you love the moly bullets, you will not need them with the new barrel. They are n unecessary extra in both care and maintenance.

Tackleberrywho

Ezridax wrote: »

5 rounds, one at a time with a cleaning after each.

10 rounds, 2 at a time with a cleaning after each pair.

15 rounds, 3 at a time with a cleaning after each 3.

10 rounds, 5 at a time with a cleaning after each 5.


Total rounds needed = 40.


The TrueFlite barrels are match grade and do not need a massive/extensive breaking in period. Use non moly to break her in and use a moly paste to treat the barrel properly before using moly bullets in her.

On a side note, irrespective of how much you love the moly bullets, you will not need them with the new barrel. They are n unecessary extra in both care and maintenance.

I have 40 Wolf which I will use to break in.
I have 60 or so Moly Hornady which would be a shame to waste.

I have 1 box of 75 Grain Superformance, also a shame to waste.

The car needs new tyres so I won't be buying a lot of ammo for a while, but I miss hunting with the .223, it's been 3 weeks in the making


I suppose I could swap 60 Rounds of Moly for Non Moly rounds?


Just when it was working I had to tear it apart .





How long did it take you to do all this "shooting in"??

Cass

Tackleberrywho wrote: »

I have 40 Wolf which I will use to break in.

Do. Any round will do to break a barrel in.

I have 60 or so Moly Hornady which would be a shame to waste.

I have 1 box of 75 Grain Superformance, also a shame to waste.

Don't use them so. As said no need to waste.

I suppose I could swap 60 Rounds of Moly for Non Moly rounds?

You could.

How long did it take you to do all this "shooting in"??

45 rounds. They were 168 gr and i don't use them for target work so i used them for breaking my barrel in. There is absolutely no need for 60/80/100+ rounds. Its overkill.

Tackleberrywho

Roll on Sunday

Stupid work between now and then:(

Tackleberrywho

Anybody know of 75 grain Hornady SuperFormance let me know.

Would love to get my hands on a few more boxes to test the new barrels capabilities!!

Traumadoc

Is there evidence to support " shooting in", I have met some who say it has no effect . And it is all superstition.

Tackleberrywho

Traumadoc wrote: »

Is there evidence to support " shooting in", I have met some who say it has no effect . And it is all superstition.

Well, after spending a packet on my new barrel I don't want to chance it.

I didn't with my other rifles, but this is a custom barrel not a factory barrel

tomcat220t

Traumadoc wrote: »

Is there evidence to support " shooting in", I have met some who say it has no effect . And it is all superstition.

If you spend your hard earned money on a custom rebarrel and your rifle smith puts all his effort and time making sure his end is done to the very best ....and your custom barrel makers (krieger,lilja , ect......)advise on how and why your new barrel should be shot in .Its simple, shoot it in !

Tackleberrywho

Now I just need to find my parker hale cleaning rod. MIA 4 months now:(

Cass

Traumadoc wrote: »

Is there evidence to support " shooting in", I have met some who say it has no effect . And it is all superstition.

I've met lads like that too, and the same ones claim their rifle can shoot 5" groups at 1,000 yards. When asking to prove it, suddenly they are out of bullets, etc. A couple of months later they say how the gun is shooting the best it ever has. Why? Because even though he did not do it properly the rifle is now shot in.

A new barrel will have spurs, edges, whatever you want to call them. Cleaning will not remove metal imperfections/spurs. I've yet to seen a cloth or oil that can remover barrel metal. The only way to remove these is firing, but at the same time you don't want to fire the shots one after the other without removing the fouling as this will cause a permanent build that may be impossible, or a pian in the ass, to remove.

When removing the fouling use a good, strong, and recommended solution. There is no need for any scrubing. The products used should do the work as its a chemical re-action, and thats why i don't use a wire brush.

Thats my understanding of the entire process, but as said before if the barrel manufacturer tells me to do a rain dance while holding the barrel in my left hand and hopping on one foot then i do as told.:D

Who am i to argue with people that build the barrels.


I will say one thing though in relation to cleaning. I found the new match grade barrel much, much easier to clean and did not "hold" the fouling as much as the factoory barrel. To that end DO NOT over clean or excessively clean. By that i mean there is no need to clean after every 10 or 15 rounds once the barrel is broken in.

I usually leave it till every 50, 60 even 80 rounds depending on the time, and amount of shooting involved. If the rifle is going away for a few weeks or longer i make sure she is cleaned up and put away. If i'm using every week she gets a cleaning once a month. I mean why go through all the trouble of breaking it in, fouling her up with a few shots, just to clean it after 10 or 15 more.

At the end of the day each to their own.

Tackleberrywho

Currently she is clean after 2-3 wipes. First wipe very dirty Second wipe a little dirty patch, 3rd spotless

patsat

Stupid question but do you not patch it until the patches are coming out clean and dry as opposed to just clean??

leupold90

One of the best break in proceedures ever!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRRahHX9Zkg

Tackleberrywho

leupold90 wrote: »

One of the best break in proceedures ever!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRRahHX9Zkg

They Montana Yanks are a league of their own!

I have to say, I am very impressed with the new barrel.

I can't wait to test her out on some clays@500+ yards

I really would like some 75 Grain Superformance though.

20 rounds is not enough to Zero and test to give me quality data.

I was very impressed with the 50 grain Federal out of her €14 a box is cheap foxing!

Cass

patsat wrote: »

Stupid question but do you not patch it until the patches are coming out clean and dry as opposed to just clean??

I patch the barrel until they are clean, but clean and wet. I keep the patches wet until they come out clean then run dry patches to remove excess oil.

My thinking behind this is if you run dry patches any remaining fouling could be left in the barrel as the fouling has had time to "set" again.

My routine would consist of the following:

• M-Pro7 for regular barrel cleaning. Butch's Bore shine now and then for heavy cleaning.
• Run a soaked patch through the barrel.
• Leave to sit for 4 minutes.
• Run another wet patch with M-Pro7 through the barrel to moisten the fouling.
• Run a nylon brush up and downt he barrel about a dozen times.
• Run another M-Pro7 patch down the barrel to remove fouling while treating it again.
• Leave to sit for a mnute or two.
• At this stage have about 25 or so oiled patches at the ready.
• Start running them down the barrel one after the other until they run clean.
• If they come clean before the 25 great. If not use more.
• When the run clean and wet, then start using the dry patches.
• Run as many as is needed until there is no more oil on the patches coming out.
• Then use the mop and run up and down the barrel again about a dozen times.
• On the last run leave the mop half protruded from the muzzle. Wipe around the muzzle and clean any fouling on the crown. The mop will prevent anything running back down into the barrel.
• Remove the bore guide and use a tooth brush, patches and bore brush to clean out the chamber, breach, etc.
• Wipe down the rod, brushes, jag, and bore guide.
• If the rifle is beng stored away for a few weeks i roll up a soft cloth and place it into the chamber up against the breach and store barrel up.
• On the off chance that i have somehow missed some residual il this will collect it.

leupold90

That American Eagle stuff is great value for money and deadly accurate out to 200m or so.

Have you tried to get any of the Hornady TAP?

Tackleberrywho

leupold90 wrote: »

That American Eagle stuff is great value for money and deadly accurate out to 200m or so.

Have you tried to get any of the Hornady TAP?

Not yet

Funds are low so i won't be shelling out on ammo for a few weeks.
I have 40 Hornady 55grain Moly and 20, 75 grain SuperFormance

I might buy a few boxes of Federal to keep me going until I can afford to buy 200 rounds of what ever I decide on to use.

Still not tested out the barrel, heaviest round was 55grain and it is 1/8 twist so they were amazing groups for that twist.
75 grain should group best if my research is good

virminhunter

jeez lads, I run wet patches with tetra solvent on them throught the bore to get the main dirt out, then I wet the copper brush with tetra solvent and give it 5 up and 5 down through the bore, leave it for a while and then run patches through it until they're coming out dry and clean, from reading ye're replies I'm thinking maybe I shouldnt be using the wire/copper brush so much???

virminhunter

Tackleberrywho wrote: »

Not yet

Funds are low so i won't be shelling out on ammo for a few weeks.
I have 40 Hornady 55grain Moly and 20, 75 grain SuperFormance

I might buy a few boxes of Federal to keep me going until I can afford to buy 200 rounds of what ever I decide on to use.

Still not tested out the barrel, heaviest round was 55grain and it is 1/8 twist so they were amazing groups for that twist.
75 grain should group best if my research is good

ever cross your mind to try some of those HPS 69gr. hpbt sierra matchkings tac?

tomcat220t

virminhunter wrote: »

jeez lads, I run wet patches with tetra solvent on them throught the bore to get the main dirt out, then I wet the copper brush with tetra solvent and give it 5 up and 5 down through the bore, leave it for a while and then run patches through it until they're coming out dry and clean, from reading ye're replies I'm thinking maybe I shouldnt be using the wire/copper brush so much???

I would use bronze brush myself (proshot )and even though patches and nylon brush work well i find a quaility bronze brush works best .Each to their own,i guess!

Tackleberrywho

I'm still waiting on Sam k to get back to me about HPS 75grain
Although 69grain could be better for less of a curve.

In regards to the barrel, I ONLY have fired 40 rounds through it to date, and that was yesterday!

I have 2 bronze brushes, Forest's Foam, Hoppes Benchrest and a few other bore solvents.

The new barrel is shiny and smooth so very little sticks to it.