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Project Arcade Table: Build Diary (Purist's Beware)

  • 28-01-2011 12:59PM
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭


    Ok here's the deal i've wanted to build an arcade cabinet for ages but really don't have the room (In other words herself would kick up over having an arcade machine in the living room :mad:)
    So when she suggested that i replace the coffee table it got me thinking.... Why not kill 2 birds with one stone.

    I'm gonna post up a diary of how the build is going from the current design stage to hopefully a completed arcade table in a few weeks time.

    So far i've decided on the following:

    CONTROLS
    2 x 8 way joysticks
    6 Buttons per player
    2 Player start buttons

    COMPUTING POWER
    I've an old laptop that will be donating it's internals

    SCREEN
    Screen from the laptop

    SOUND
    TBC but properly will make use of a few car speakers i've got lying around


    I'll currently doing up a few drawings and will post them up later.


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Comments

  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 3,183 Mod ✭✭✭✭Dr Bob




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow




    Not until now :D


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,743 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Here's another very nice ramvik based table, this is a seriously nice home arcade system built into a more substantial coffee table.

    http://ramvikpinball.wordpress.com/

    Couple it with a wireless stick ( I have a thing for those :) ) and you have a system that will make jaws drop!
    The Ramvik I'm using is actually very, what's the word, bijou....


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,398 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    I have to admit, i dont like the idea of using wireless controllers in these. Its personal preference of course but i think its more "retro" when the control is built into the table.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow


    This is actually quite similar to what i'm planning
    http://www.ikeahackers.net/2008/08/ramvik-tv-and-music-console.html

    But i'll be building the table from scratch and knowing me that will evolve over the next week :D

    I think i'll be going with the control kit below and an i-pac2.
    http://gremlinsolutions.co.uk/products/sanwa_cp_kit_white.htm

    Opinion's?


    Can anyone see a problem with using one of the spare buttons i'll have as the on/off switch for the laptop?


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  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,398 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    i was going to say earlier would you not get in ipac2 instead of that xarcade kit then i notice you changed the link! :D

    I havent wired up a button to turn on the laptop/pc before but im sure some of the other lads have, dont think it would be an issue.

    You should check your Bios on your laptop to see if you have an option for it to switch on when it recieves power. That way when you plug it in , it will come on automatically! Thats the setup i have on the cab im working on at the minute and saves having that extra button.

    EDIT: i found this page too seems to be in ireland, might save you a few quid it seems fairly cheap, www.arcademachines.ie

    I havent used it before myself to be honest but i think i will the next time i need something.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow


    keithgeo wrote: »
    You should check your Bios on your laptop to see if you have an option for it to switch on when it recieves power. That way when you plug it in , it will come on automatically! Thats the setup i have on the cab im working on at the minute and saves having that extra button.


    Tried this unforuntaly "Computer Says No" :D


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,743 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Kerbdog and I installed such a thing the other night.
    Firstly, strip down the Laptop, disconnect the power and battery and have a look at the power button as it sits on the board.
    Using a multimeter check where a circuit is formed when the button is pressed.
    The solder two wires to these points and attach a "push to make" button to these.
    Now when the button is pressed the pc will power on and power off once you press it again.
    We used a 3.5mm headphone socket and plug between the button and pc, the button can be easily disconnected in case of.... whatever.
    It works a treat too!


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 2,976 Mod ✭✭✭✭LoGiE


    CiDeRmAn wrote: »
    Here's another very nice ramvik based table, this is a seriously nice home arcade system built into a more substantial coffee table.

    http://ramvikpinball.wordpress.com/

    Couple it with a wireless stick ( I have a thing for those :) ) and you have a system that will make jaws drop!
    The Ramvik I'm using is actually very, what's the word, bijou....

    Holy christ! Me wants.... Honey bring the car round, were off to IKEA.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow


    CiDeRmAn wrote: »
    Kerbdog and I installed such a thing the other night.
    Firstly, strip down the Laptop, disconnect the power and battery and have a look at the power button as it sits on the board.
    Using a multimeter check where a circuit is formed when the button is pressed.
    The solder two wires to these points and attach a "push to make" button to these.
    Now when the button is pressed the pc will power on and power off once you press it again.
    We used a 3.5mm headphone socket and plug between the button and pc, the button can be easily disconnected in case of.... whatever.
    It works a treat too!


    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/how-power-laptop/108758-simple-clean-remote-laptop-power-switch.html ;)


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow


    Ok didnt get my drawings finished yet due to a problem with my work laptop :mad:

    However i did start sorting out the software for my project:

    Front end: MAYA
    Emulators Installed: MAME & Fusion (sega emulator)


    Hopefully will get a lot of the software sorted today and can start adding rom's then.

    Next job then is to start pulling apart the laptop:
    1: Wires to the screen need to be extended
    2: Power button needs to be relocated to the control panel (Gonna use a "Player Button" as the on/off switch)
    3: Extend 2 usb ports so that i can plug in keyboard & mouse easily but discretely if needed

    Gotta take a look at an old PSU i got lying around to see if i can get some 12v DC going (reason for this will be explained at a later date ;))


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow


    3dspec.jpg


    roomb.jpg

    And yes this is hopefully how my sitting room will look in about 2 weeks time (will just have to tidy & get herself off the couch 2 match the drawing :D)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,041 ✭✭✭pdbhp


    @ Clohane does the joystick drawer slide in and out for neatness sakes as that would be seriously cool


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow


    pdbhp wrote: »
    @ Clohane does the joystick drawer slide in and out for neatness sakes as that would be seriously cool

    Yup it does indeed, and the runners will be concealed so it should be a nice neat job open & shut :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,041 ✭✭✭pdbhp


    Clohane wrote: »
    Yup it does indeed, and the runners will be concealed so it should be a nice neat job open & shut :D

    That'll be awesome when it's finished. Good luck with the build and keep the post updated


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow


    pdbhp wrote: »
    That'll be awesome when it's finished. Good luck with the build and keep the post updated

    cheers :D

    Gonna order the controls tomorrow cos i cant make the table until i see exactly how much depth i need for the joysticks :rolleyes:

    On a less positive note i had my first major set back earlier, fecking laptop cant find the hard drive :mad:

    No matter we'll drive on and i'll source a new hard drive somewhere :o

    (I've noticed since i started posting here i now use smilies instead of full stops)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow


    OK went shopping earlier and got my controls sorted:


    2 x Happ Player Start Pushbuttons (White)
    12 x Sanwa Pushbuttons OBSF-30 Snap (In red)
    2 x Seimitsu LS-32-01 (black)
    Mini-PAC Kit - Small Crimps For Sanwa & Seimitsu Buttons
    3 x Pack of 4 PCB mounting feet


    I went for the mini-PAC kit in the end instead of the iPAC2 for the simple reason that it had a wiring loom included :o

    My project has evolved slightly since my last post the 15.4" laptop screen has now been replaced with a 22' LCD monitor (a bargain for 50 euro).

    I decided to go back to a 6 button layout instead of the 8 buttons i included when i was drawing.


    Also got my paint ordered today:
    The main part of the table will be 20% sheen grey (RAL 7039)
    The drawer will be 70% sheen orange (RAL 2004)

    I'll keep ye updated ;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow


    I did say in an earlier post that this plan will evolve and guess what it has.

    The laptop is no longer being used because the hard drive packed up so instead i'm gonna be using an old (ish) PC that was lying around at home.

    Got home from work earlier and started pulling it apart to the bare necessities. Its properly way over specced for a MAME machine but at least i'll have plenty of space for ROMs :D (my living room is starting to look like a computer graveyard at this stage between ripped PC's and laptops)

    Anyway was hoping to begin construction tomorrow but the controls wont be here till monday so i'll sort out software (again) tomorrow. Have to get my front end looking nice anyway :D

    I've attached a pic of my stripped back PC & will upload a pic of the monitor later


    Can i just add "AGGGGGGGGHHHHHH I HATE VISTA"

    photoknl.jpg


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,743 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    This looks great, looking forward to seeing the finish on the unit, especially on the controllers drawer.
    Are you going to make a plastic plate to cover the surface beneath the controllers?
    A clear plastic would allow the colour of the paint to impress and be more comfortable.

    The great thing about the furniture is it can take a big monitor, making more real estate for gaming.
    Also the size of the control panel is you could add a track ball and a spinner, perfect for Arkanoid and Missile Command!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow


    CiDeRmAn wrote: »
    This looks great, looking forward to seeing the finish on the unit, especially on the controllers drawer.
    Are you going to make a plastic plate to cover the surface beneath the controllers?
    A clear plastic would allow the colour of the paint to impress and be more comfortable.

    The great thing about the furniture is it can take a big monitor, making more real estate for gaming.
    Also the size of the control panel is you could add a track ball and a spinner, perfect for Arkanoid and Missile Command!

    I'm waiting for the controls to arrive before i decide exactly how to construct the drawer.

    I'll either rebate the joysticks into the top of the drawer and bolt down, with a solid color or vinyl backed clear perspex on top or.....
    Rebate to within a few mm of the top of the MDF, fix from underneath and use clear perspex on top.

    I want to keep the control panel as ridged as possible so bolting down is the preferred option. :D


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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,743 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Still think with a control panel that big it'd be a shame not to put in a spinner and a trackball....
    Although I think trackballs can be expensive....


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow


    CiDeRmAn wrote: »
    Still think with a control panel that big it'd be a shame not to put in a spinner and a trackball....
    Although I think trackballs can be expensive....

    I'm properly going to regret saying this but i cant think of any game that i really want that needs a trackball or spinner. Anyway dunno can i afford another 100 and something euro on controls :o

    Now when i've it all together in a week or so and i post on here saying "should have listened to CiDeRmAn & put in a shagging trackball & spinner" you have permission to say i told you so :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow


    I'm just after finding some 3mm mirror backed perspex at work, what ye think of using it on top of the control panel?


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,398 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Cool, could look nice, cant really picture it though, does look like a mirror? - stupid question probably! have you cut perspex before? id be interested to hear how you got on, ive heard its a demon to cut without snapping\cracking it.

    Im going to get some perspex in B&q and try cut it myself, planning on printing off some sort of image to go underneath it when i decide on the artwork going into the cab.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow


    keithgeo wrote: »
    Cool, could look nice, cant really picture it though, does look like a mirror? - stupid question probably! have you cut perspex before? id be interested to hear how you got on, ive heard its a demon to cut without snapping\cracking it.

    Im going to get some perspex in B&q and try cut it myself, planning on printing off some sort of image to go underneath it when i decide on the artwork going into the cab.

    I'll stick up a pic in a bit, i was going to do the same with some clear perspex & a picture underneath but seeing as i have this mirror stuff lying around might make use of it.

    As for cutting perspex.... the best advice i can give if your using a saw is not to cut it on its own. Place it on 15mm mdf or similar and cut both at the same time.
    This will stop it flexing and should help with chipping on the underside.

    The best way i've found to cut it cleanly though is with a router, using a smallish cutter, running at high RPM but moving slowly through the material.

    2s84js2.jpg


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,398 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Thanks, i think im going to have to invest in a router, at the minute im relying on lends of tools. a router seems like a must have tool for this sort of stuff.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow


    It's a good investment if your attempting any project involving wood. Put the time into planning things out, make jigs as necessary and it'll pay for its self in no time.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 985 ✭✭✭Hercule


    as a matter of interest - what software have you used to do the mockup on page 1 - looking at planning something out something similiar for my PC and solidworks is proving a little bit too restrictive/time consuming


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow


    Hercule wrote: »
    as a matter of interest - what software have you used to do the mockup on page 1 - looking at planning something out something similiar for my PC and solidworks is proving a little bit too restrictive/time consuming

    The CAD drawings were done in a program called PYTHA and rendered in RadioLAB (both programs are by the same crowd). The drawings i uploaded are only quick renderings, given a bit of time the rendering's from RadioLAB are stunning.

    Its pretty specialist software for the wood work industry to be honest. Main advantage is that it's linked to the CNC's, I can draw something up in the office, head down to the CNC, hit a few buttons and away it go's :D


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭Elbow


    Controls arrived now i can get down to business :D

    28mplxz.jpg

    Got the glass top already and i'm gonna try the mirror backed perspex i found earlier and see how it looks (if i dont like it clear perspex will be found somewhere).

    Final design/working drawing will be done tonight & hopefully i'll get everything cut out and together B4 the weekend :D


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