Tiling bathroom - Tile under/over toilet etc?

Joey the lips

darsar wrote: »

My bathroom is tiny so that's handy to know thanks. House is only 6 years old so might get away with scrape.

Would you use 100 screws in say, 30-40 down the middle and 30-40 down the sides or randomly place them around?

Every 2" every direction

gsxr1 wrote: »

You need to screw like joey says. you would be sick if you finished the job, only to see a tile lift due to floor movement.

Dont spare the screws. 30mm screws are fine for 6mm ply. Sink the head, but not so far that it goes right through the ply. PRIME after.

I would not use 30mm unless it allowed in the thickness of the ply and floor.Some builders run the waste very close to the surface especially if they stretch having cut wrong.

darsar

Would screws go through the floor without drilling?

Joey the lips

darsar wrote: »

Are spacers for wall tiles and floor the same thickness?

What is meant by 'prime'?

darsar wrote: »

Would screws go through the floor without drilling?

With due respect i think you are a little out of your dept... but i will go ahead and answer.

Spax will not need to be drilled however if you have a punch you can start a hole to help it go in.

Spacers are all the same just the thickness. generally nothing less than 5mm is rec for a bathroom floor however if the grout allows you can go down to 2mm on the wall. Some grouts only allow for 3mm use.


To prime wood is to prepare it for tiling. You need to prime any surface you are going to tile on. You can buy tile primer with the adhesive.

You need to buy a floor trowel and a wall trowel for spreading because the beads are different thickness. Do not take your level off the bath. You are assuming the bath is level. Nail a batton to the wall the hight of a tile from the bath so a tile can be slotted in after. Use the batton as your level.

Grumpypants

Sorry to high-jack the thread but i've just done a tiling job on the bathroom took everything off and got everything back on ok but the pipe from the back of the loo to the PCV waste pipe is leaking still when i flush.

Is there a trick to getting the black seal in correctly i've tried to find a video but all i can find are American ones that goes straight into the floor.

Sparkpea

can you take a pic of the waste so we know which type is on so we know what to recommend...

Davy

Grumpypants wrote: »

Sorry to high-jack the thread but i've just done a tiling job on the bathroom took everything off and got everything back on ok but the pipe from the back of the loo to the PCV waste pipe is leaking still when i flush.

Is there a trick to getting the black seal in correctly i've tried to find a video but all i can find are American ones that goes straight into the floor.

I take it your talking about the multiwick? The 100mm connection from the pan to the soil pipe.

The complete black rubber should go into the soil pipe. Its possibley strained and not lining up properly if the floor was tiled and the soil just adjusted. Pics would help.

Old multiwicks can cause problems too when reinstalled. The rubber get flattened over the years in the one spot if their is presure, then once removed, because the rubber is not 100% it gives tear drops

Grumpypants

I guess its the multiwick not sure, its the 100mm connection from the porcelain outflow from the toilet itself into the PVC waste pipe. Its all pretty new the house is less then 5 years old.

Ill try post some pic's tommorow, i inserted the skinny end of the seal into the PVC pipe then pushed the Toilet in to the seal as thats the only way i can see how it could work. It may be just shifting a little inside the pipe and not creating the seal properly.

Davy

Sounds like the multiwick alright. By the sounds of it, its a straight through, (not a 90 bend, which you mean the soil goes down into the floor rather than the wall).

Just position it correctly on the pan outlet, then slide it into the soil pipe, and make sure the 4 rings are in the soil. You might be better getting an offset multiwick if there is pressure on this one now because of the tiles if you aren't able to get a few mm on the soil.

Normal:

Offset:

brendankelly

brendankelly wrote: »

The most important thing is the waste pipe from the toilet. The seal on this is designed so you have a little bit of play when first fitting it. The amount of play now could be at its max so you might not have enough room to raise the toilet bowel even the thickness of the tile.

Tillers charge about 30 euros per meter and your bathroom is max 5 sq meters. This is 150 euros to have the job done and dusted professionally with no worries. The price of one night out versus a cock up.

I warned you about this but you just ignored me.

Joey the lips

If you have done everything and there is still a slight weep i find a bit of silicone greese which stays wet permanantly does the trick Just wet the fins of the wick with it. and wet the toilet pan your shoving in the pipe.

outside that...My own p1ssed me off so i used silicone but this not the correct way as i will in all probs need to replace the wick next time.

Grumpypants

Davy wrote: »

Sounds like the multiwick alright. By the sounds of it, its a straight through, (not a 90 bend, which you mean the soil goes down into the floor rather than the wall).

Just position it correctly on the pan outlet, then slide it into the soil pipe, and make sure the 4 rings are in the soil. You might be better getting an offset multiwick if there is pressure on this one now because of the tiles if you aren't able to get a few mm on the soil.

Normal:

Offset:

think my description may be confusing, its not that seal you have shown with the 4 rings thats working ok on the other side of the 90degree bend, its the single ring that connects the toilet to the 90 degree bend.

The pipe comes out of the toilet goes 90degree, then into a pvc pipe that runs along at a right angle to the wall and then down the waste pipe to the outside.

I think it may be just slipping im going to take it all out clean it and dry it all again and try it once more failing that ill buy a new better one.

Joey the lips

brendankelly wrote: »

I warned you about this but you just ignored me.

No you did not you told him how to do it poorly.

Grumpypants wrote: »

think my description may be confusing, its not that seal you have shown with the 4 rings thats working ok on the other side of the 90degree bend, its the single ring that connects the toilet to the 90 degree bend.

The pipe comes out of the toilet goes 90degree, then into a pvc pipe that runs along at a right angle to the wall and then down the waste pipe to the outside.

I think it may be just slipping im going to take it all out clean it and dry it all again and try it once more failing that ill buy a new better one.

All that is wrong is your wick has become distorted. You can buy another or use silicone grease. For my money i would use the grease. It gives a good non permanent seal.

Grumpypants

I just bought a new 90degree bend for a fiver and problem solved the seal had just become warped from the looks of things, put it all back on and no leaks.

Turned on the water again and i now have a leak inside the wall where the sink attaches water is off again and i have to knock a hole in the wall to have a look.

Gulliver

I'm going to get a pro to do this I think! I have a question though. My bathrooms are all block construction and will be plastered and have 75mm screed floor. Will I need plasterboard under the tiles? And will I need ply on the floor (floor is already poured and is level)

Sparkpea

no you can tile direct onto a solid floor

big b

another thread hijacker here, but hardly seems worth a new one as different requests don't seem to be getting confused.....

1. had an ensuite tiled by a guy no longer in the area. Good job except that 4 floor tiles may be just a little too close together, maybe a 4mm gap there. The grout has crumbled & lifted. Phoned my tiler, he thinks maybe the grout mix was just a little dry & laying a "softer" mix will do the trick. Does this sound right? I'm going to be working away from home for a while & am worried about the Mrs bringing the downstairs ceiling down!

2. €20/ sq mtr sounds like a reasonable rate. Would this apply to tiles like travertine etc or just basic ceramics?

I have a main bathroom to be tiled in a couple of months, about 4m x 3m and will be looking for prices. to tile floor and all walls full height. Walls are marine ply with 3 coats UPA already applied. Any of you wiling to work in Connemara are more than welcome to quote!

thanks in advance for any info

Joey the lips

Grumpypants wrote: »

I just bought a new 90degree bend for a fiver and problem solved the seal had just become warped from the looks of things, put it all back on and no leaks.

Turned on the water again and i now have a leak inside the wall where the sink attaches water is off again and i have to knock a hole in the wall to have a look.

Cool on the wick. Now your enlightened to help a neighbour and return the goodness:) Sorry about the sink. It sounds like the waste pipe has poped out. You might have it a little overstretched and might just need to buy a straight to extend it a little further. Although i dont know unless you tell me more.

Gulliver wrote: »

I'm going to get a pro to do this I think! I have a question though. My bathrooms are all block construction and will be plastered and have 75mm screed floor. Will I need plasterboard under the tiles? And will I need ply on the floor (floor is already poured and is level)

You have the perfect bathroom for tiling. If your using ceramics you can use rapid set adhesive on the floor as its concrete. If your using porc or marble you will need to use rapid flex. You can use rapid set on block walls but as there is a risk of movement more than the floor i would use flex on the wall.

big b wrote: »

another thread hijacker here, but hardly seems worth a new one as different requests don't seem to be getting confused.....

1. had an ensuite tiled by a guy no longer in the area. Good job except that 4 floor tiles may be just a little too close together, maybe a 4mm gap there. The grout has crumbled & lifted. Phoned my tiler, he thinks maybe the grout mix was just a little dry & laying a "softer" mix will do the trick. Does this sound right? I'm going to be working away from home for a while & am worried about the Mrs bringing the downstairs ceiling down!

2. €20/ sq mtr sounds like a reasonable rate. Would this apply to tiles like travertine etc or just basic ceramics?

I have a main bathroom to be tiled in a couple of months, about 4m x 3m and will be looking for prices. to tile floor and all walls full height. Walls are marine ply with 3 coats UPA already applied. Any of you wiling to work in Connemara are more than welcome to quote!

thanks in advance for any info

1. It could be a couple of diffent things. The tiles might have been laid wrong. But to check you can use flexi grout and add more addmix to make it more flexi and see if this works. I cannot see why your ceiling will fall down. Your tiles might come up but you sound like you have not let it get that bad.

2. 18 euro a yard or 20 euro a meter for ceramics is reasonable especially where you are located. You can pay up to 35 a yard/40 a meter for trav marble. If you find anyone doing it cheap your going to seriously have to check there work and make sure its marble work. There is a lot of extra time in marble. Its difficult to cut. lay and the floor must be sealed.

If your bathroom is already pva applied and you have been walking on it there is most likely a lot of dirt on the floor.(sorry if i offend) it will need to be cleaned and primed again before tiling and as tilers are generally fussy it might need more screws.

Gulliver

Joey the lips wrote: »

You have the perfect bathroom for tiling. If your using ceramics you can use rapid set adhesive on the floor as its concrete. If your using porc or marble you will need to use rapid flex. You can use rapid set on block walls but as there is a risk of movement more than the floor i would use flex on the wall.

Thanks for that!

big b

Joey the lips wrote: »

1. It could be a couple of diffent things. The tiles might have been laid wrong. But to check you can use flexi grout and add more addmix to make it more flexi and see if this works. I cannot see why your ceiling will fall down. Your tiles might come up but you sound like you have not let it get that bad.

2. 18 euro a yard or 20 euro a meter for ceramics is reasonable especially where you are located. You can pay up to 35 a yard/40 a meter for trav marble. If you find anyone doing it cheap your going to seriously have to check there work and make sure its marble work. There is a lot of extra time in marble. Its difficult to cut. lay and the floor must be sealed.

If your bathroom is already pva applied and you have been walking on it there is most likely a lot of dirt on the floor.(sorry if i offend) it will need to be cleaned and primed again before tiling and as tilers are generally fussy it might need more screws.

1. I'll try flexi grout. Hopefully it comes in sandstone finish, haven't noticed it in the shops so far though.
2. No offence taken! I'm sure the floor will need redone, that room's been used for storage.

Thanks very much for the price guidance, and the assistance above

Buford T Justice

If the grout has crumbled, then its more likely that the tiles are loose and has caused the grout to crumble. Check this out before you regrout as the tiles may need to be relaid.

Joey the lips

Fingers McGee wrote: »

If the grout has crumbled, then its more likely that the tiles are loose and has caused the grout to crumble. Check this out before you regrout as the tiles may need to be relaid.

I agree but taking up tiles that are half set can cause them to break and not a good thing when you have no spares. I would try the addmix in the grout first.

But each to there own.

big b

Thanks guys.

The tiles seem well set, and it's only the joints where they meet each other that's crumbled.
I thought it was maybe just cos there wasn't enough of it to set properly, with the gap between those tiles looking very small.

Going to try & find the flexi grout in sandstone, if not I'll try a wetter mix of ordinary grout (my tiler kinda hinted his grout may have been drying out by the time he got to those tiles)

Worst comes to the worst, I have plenty spare tiles, but I'm hoping to fix this 1st time round as I'll be away soon.

Thanks again for the advice

Rob113

Sorry folks. Couple of noob questions.

Also want to tile bathrooms x 3. Ive no problem doing the floor tiles. Laid all 3 and the kitchen floor when I moved into house 5 yrs ago and done a fairly good job for a complete novice imo. Gonna take up the 3 bathroom floors as tiling Walls now also. I had previously only tiled against skirting boards but now I'll have gaps all round when I do Walls and take skirting boards off.

Doing the Walls scares the life out of me though as if they go crooked they will look sh1te. All walls are plastered and just painted atm. I assume I'll need a primer so that the adhesive will take to the painted walls. What I need to know is how do I go about marking out the wall. Do I start from bottom and work way up or start from the midpoint on the wall? I'm just afraid o them slipping.

Sparkpea

I've always been taught (tho I don't tile much) to put a lath across the wall near the bottom high enough to slip 1 moderately cut tile in so you don't really know its cut that much. Tile ontop of the lath and using the spacers the tiles shouldn't drop. The next day or 2 take the lath off and then tile the last bottom tile.

Before you decide what height the lath needs to be you need to work out how many tiles are going to be above the lath and what cut you will have at the bottom e.g. you dont want a tiny small cut at the ceiling or ground - you want half and half sort of.

My tiler who does my bathroom refits tiles direct from the ground but I'm unsure of how he starts - all I know is that he does a bloody goo job.

Joey the lips

^^ Good advice and prime the wall. I never rec tiling unless your a pro but i know that despite what it may seem its actually harder to get the floor right compared with the wall because if the right adhesive etc is not used on the floor it will come away quite quickly.

Sparkpea

I've never done a floor before and tiling has been mainly patch work, my old mans says I should tile my own shower etc when fitting it out in the coming months but I think myself being a perfectionist I will waste too much time (time=money) trying to get it right and even then it might still look crap and will annoy the head off me! Wetwall maybe I'm thinking.