Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Astec Alarm Engineer Locked.

Options
2

Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2 oharaphil


    Hi

    Could someone send me a copy of the manual for the above alarm . We are getting some work done in the kitchen which means removing one of the back doors ( no longer required ). Problem is this door is alarmed so i need to remove the sensor from this door and connect the relevant wires together .Its all going to be bricked and plastered over . So i need to make sure the alarm works as before.. less the back door sensor

    thanks...


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Sent you that.
    Any problems? you know where we are.;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6 longjohns


    Hi, I see Altor and Koolkid are very good with helping on this site. I have tried somethings that have all ready been advised but am still getting no where!! My battery needed replacing so I went ahead and replaced it myself as described on this site! Quite easy and straight forward in the end. When I was finished the keypad was showing 15 call engineer and then that switched to 22 call engineer. The system would not set at all even though it was doing it before i removed the battery. So I entered a few codes in engineer mode and when I press ''clear 11'', its showing me ''1 sab fault''. I cant get out of this function either to see what engineer code is actually flashing now.

    Any advice greatly appreciated.

    John


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,827 ✭✭✭fred funk }{


    '15' indicates a lid tamper and '22' is a fault with the outside bell.

    Check you didn't pull out the bell cable from the terminals in the panel. The other thing it could be is that you accidently blew the panel by shorting something on the board while changing the battery or the more likely cause is the solder spikes on the back of the board have pierced one of the battery leads when you were screwing the board back on.
    I know this because I have done it before myself :o and it's not repairable and the only solution is to replace the panel or do without the outside bell.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Fred would be spot on here. I would also try powering the system down compleatly & then power up on the battery first.
    If the problem is still there disconnect both bells & reconnect the external first & see if it sees that first.
    If all fails enter command 73 when 0 SAB displays press set . This will remove the SAB from the system & allow you to leave engineer & use the system with the internal for now. Not the ideal solution ,i know, but something is better than nothing.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 11,661 ✭✭✭✭altor


    longjohns wrote: »
    Hi, I see Altor and Koolkid are very good with helping on this site. I have tried somethings that have all ready been advised but am still getting no where!! My battery needed replacing so I went ahead and replaced it myself as described on this site! Quite easy and straight forward in the end. When I was finished the keypad was showing 15 call engineer and then that switched to 22 call engineer. The system would not set at all even though it was doing it before i removed the battery. So I entered a few codes in engineer mode and when I press ''clear 11'', its showing me ''1 sab fault''. I cant get out of this function either to see what engineer code is actually flashing now.

    Any advice greatly appreciated.

    John

    It is showing a problem with the outside bell. If as you say this is a new issue I would think that the cable in the control panel has come loose when you where changing the battery. Check these cables, they are on the top right as you look at the panel with the lid off, sounder bus. Then down power completely, power it back up and hopefully that should clear the fault. If it stops showing the fault in command 11 then press clear 99 to exit engineer mode.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6 longjohns


    Thanks for the replys guys, just home from work so too late at night to be messing with an alarm with people in bed. Will give it a go in the morning!! Fingers crossed!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6 longjohns


    Hi,

    @ Koolkid I took your advice and entered code 73 and that cleared the fault!!!!!!! (and i do know it takes away the outside ringer but at least now I can set the alarm internally)

    I also removed the lid on the box and took a look at the wires on the sounders and tightened them up. Now I am just wondering if I have fixed my problem or not. What code do i now use to get my outside bell back on the keypad to check if the problem has been solved? Going away for the week in the morning and greatful that at least at the moment I have some sort of alarm!!!!!

    Thanks for all your help!


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Have You tried powering it down.
    If so and the external is still connected it will register a fault 22 if it sees the bell again.
    Command 73 would then show 1 and you press set to re register it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 584 ✭✭✭Waesfjord


    Hi guys,

    Could you please advise me on the following for the 63DV.

    Previously I had an issue with rear patio door nuisance alarms. After testing I replaced one (resistance check, tks to guys on this forum for their guidance). Problem became less frequent, then ended up changing all three out, problem now only very intermittent (less that once a month).
    • Can the sensitivity of the shock/contacts be reduced, to prevent nuisance alarms when e.g. very windy, as have noticed that on the windy nights (wind tinnel along back of houses in estate)?

    Recently the front door contact seems to be causing problems, causing nuisance alarms, twice in as many days. It either allows someone to open the front door without alarm beeping or anything, another time just set off alarm when alarm set and nobody home, so presumably the sensor just needs to be replaced.
    • Is this just a standard contact with configuration all done at the control box, or is this a special sensor as I want to purchase a replacement tomorrow at local alarm shop. just want to know what to ask for.

    Thanks.


  • Advertisement
  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    brian1976 wrote: »
    • Can the sensitivity of the shock/contacts be reduced, to prevent nuisance alarms when e.g. very windy, as have noticed that on the windy nights (wind tinnel along back of houses in estate)?
    Yes command 40
    Enter zone number & then gross & pulse.(0-9)4 or 5 would be the norm. The higher the number the less sensitive.
    brian1976 wrote: »

    Recently the front door contact seems to be causing problems, causing nuisance alarms, twice in as many days. It either allows someone to open the front door without alarm beeping or anything, another time just set off alarm when alarm set and nobody home, so presumably the sensor just needs to be replaced.
    • Is this just a standard contact with configuration all done at the control box, or is this a special sensor as I want to purchase a replacement tomorrow at local alarm shop. just want to know what to ask for.
    Easiest thing is to change it, especially if it has be failing to open. Its an entry exit contact you require.


  • Registered Users Posts: 584 ✭✭✭Waesfjord


    KoolKid wrote: »
    Easiest thing is to change it, especially if it has be failing to open. Its an entry exit contact you require.

    Becasue Altec are now no more, the local shop has no more entry/exit contacts left. They said that I can use a standard shock/contact, just need to change the resistor inside so that the system 'recognises' it as an entry/exit, so doesn't set off alarm, instead giving your the timer to allow alarm deactivation.

    They'll sort one out for me tomorrow, so happy days...
    KoolKid wrote: »
    Yes command 40
    Enter zone number & then gross & pulse.(0-9)4 or 5 would be the norm. The higher the number the less sensitive.Easiest thing is to change it, especially if it has be failing to open. Its an entry exit contact you require.

    When I moved in the electrician took alarm away back to Astec to reset/reprogram, so don't think it was returned with the default engineer password.

    Can you please provide what is the method in getting into Engineer Mode to confirm.

    I have electricians number if above doesn't work. I presume he uses a 4digit code on all alarms he worked on, so should be able to provide it to me.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Have you tried the default engineer 1174?
    If thats not it you can default the panel by removing the mains power & the battery link (The battery link is located to the very right of the terminal connections. Remove the factory link (this is located to the very left of the terminal connections) Power back up & the system should disarm with the factory user code 4711 . The default engineer code 1174 should now work.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,661 ✭✭✭✭altor


    brian1976 wrote: »
    Can you please provide what is the method in getting into Engineer Mode to confirm.

    If the system was set up for the EN50131 then you will need to enter clear fn 0, user code, clear, then the engineer code to get into engineering.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    You would need to have words with that electrician if he went to the trouble of going to Astec to get it unlocked & then goes and changes the eng code & turning on strict EN.;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,661 ✭✭✭✭altor


    If he has the code and it does not work there is no harm trying it ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 584 ✭✭✭Waesfjord


    brian1976 wrote: »
    Becasue Altec are now no more, the local shop has no more entry/exit contacts left. They said that I can use a standard shock/contact, just need to change the resistor inside so that the system 'recognises' it as an entry/exit, so doesn't set off alarm, instead giving your the timer to allow alarm deactivation.

    They'll sort one out for me tomorrow, so happy days...



    When I moved in the electrician took alarm away back to Astec to reset/reprogram, so don't think it was returned with the default engineer password.

    Can you please provide what is the method in getting into Engineer Mode to confirm.

    I have electricians number if above doesn't work. I presume he uses a 4digit code on all alarms he worked on, so should be able to provide it to me.

    local shop now says they cannot source an entry/exit contact for my faulty front door contact (Astec 63DV) - anyone know of any other options i can try as can't afford changing out full alarm, just becasue one of the contacts is on the blink.

    Cheers


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    You can convert a standard contact using 2 768 ohm resistors in paralell across the contact.
    I have plenty of them if you want the handy option. ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 584 ✭✭✭Waesfjord


    KoolKid wrote: »
    You can convert a standard contact using 2 768 ohm resistors in paralell across the contact.
    I have plenty of them if you want the handy option. ;)

    thanks for that - sounds great. I'll ring the shop back to see if they have a spare standard contact in the morning.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Where are you shopping?
    Most of the suppliers in the sticky would still have these.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 584 ✭✭✭Waesfjord


    KoolKid wrote: »
    Where are you shopping?
    Most of the suppliers in the sticky would still have these.

    IGT Lucan is one I pass from work so handiest to drop into.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,661 ✭✭✭✭altor


    brian1976 wrote: »
    IGT Lucan is one I pass from work so handiest to drop into.

    MEW in Leixlip stock these if that is any good to you.


  • Registered Users Posts: 584 ✭✭✭Waesfjord


    KoolKid wrote: »
    You can convert a standard contact using 2 768 ohm resistors in paralell across the contact.
    I have plenty of them if you want the handy option. ;)

    Would the faulty entry/exit contact have the 2*768ohm resistors that I need?

    Or failing that, Maplins website (local elec shop in D15), they seem to stock only 750ohm resistors, would 2 of these do?

    If not, would appreciate if I could get two of those bad boys off you, as picked up a shock contact replacement today

    Cheers.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,661 ✭✭✭✭altor


    brian1976 wrote: »
    Would the faulty entry/exit contact have the 2*768ohm resistors that I need?

    Or failing that, Maplins website (local elec shop in D15), they seem to stock only 750ohm resistors, would 2 of these do?

    If not, would appreciate if I could get two of those bad boys off you, as picked up a shock contact replacement today

    Cheers.

    More than happy to give you the sensors you need, send me a P.M


  • Registered Users Posts: 10 ProAntix


    KoolKid wrote: »
    A good engineer would be able to unlock it.;)
    Splitting this thread away from manual requests

    I did a reset and I'm stuck in engineer mode with out a manual. Any chance you might have one?

    Also, how much would it cost to update to a new GSM panel and scrap this Astec 63D one?

    Thanks in advance,
    Mark.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Is it the Astec one you want?
    PMed you that.;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,661 ✭✭✭✭altor


    ProAntix wrote: »
    I did a reset and I'm stuck in engineer mode with out a manual. Any chance you might have one?

    Also, how much would it cost to update to a new GSM panel and scrap this Astec 63D one?

    Thanks in advance,
    Mark.

    You will need a S22 if you only have a 63D. This will allow you trigger the GSM off the bell output when the alarm activates. You will need to ring a few of the suppliers to see if they have any in stock. Getting rarer by the day.
    This GSM will work for what you want.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1 outis


    Hey KoolKid could I also have a copy of the Astec 63DV Engineer manual. I'm having major problems with it! My email is outis666 at gmail dot com


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,661 ✭✭✭✭altor


    outis wrote: »
    Hey KoolKid could I also have a copy of the Astec 63DV Engineer manual. I'm having major problems with it! My email is outis666 at gmail dot com

    PMed you that.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 126 ✭✭ruaneg


    Hey guys

    When I turned off my alarm this evening a tamper message came up as soon as I touched the pad and the siren went off. My normal code turned the alarm off OK but I cant set it again. I have a call engineer 77 code on the screen but Ive had that for around 6 months so there is obviously something else wrong.

    I know the engineer code unless the last guy to service it changed it. Unfortunately the alarm company appears to have closed for good so I cant ring them to check. Whats my best bet to get it working again without having to get an engineer to call out?

    cheers for the help
    Gary


This discussion has been closed.
Advertisement