Antec 300 Airflow

Kevinf63

Okay, I've been having some doubts about my setups airflow. I have an Antec 300 case with a PSU facing upwards (its fan facing towards graphic card), with a huge MSI R5850 Twin Frozr II squeezed in with a AMD stock cooler (I know shameful!)

At the moment its set up so I have two 120mm intake fans at the front blowing air into the case through the hard drive that's placed in the second last from the bottom of the bays between the bottom front fan. That air goes into the motherboard, GFX card and other things but I don't think it's getting there. Because usually when I have the heating on in the house (usually around 20-25 Celsius) and Im playing games on it(Im unsure/not positive if heat is defo the prob but its a factor) I sometimes have BSOD's between 5 minutes to even 2-3 hours gameplay either containing all different error messages (most common in Bad Company 2 is Dxgmms1.sys).

Also I have two exhaust fans (one 120mm on the rear and 140mm on top of case) that blow air out of the case. The PC is sitting under a computer desk in a fairly tight space. PSU fan is as far as I know is an exhaust fan (like most of them) and I think it might be sucking the cool intake fan's air out of the case before it even hits the mobo, GFX card and CPU which is worrying. Plus I've got an optional 120mm sidepanel case fan spot thats not used, if somebody has suggestions on moving one of the fans around thats somewhere to think of.

As you might remember (Solitaire) I'm the same guy who had the crazy 38,000 RPM CPU fan problem a while ago (Which I think is sorted but now I have to deal with this....). I fear that one or a lot of the components might be broken (why? I honestly don't know! Probably just my luck....). I've realitively good cable tidying considering I have an Antec 300 (has no rerouting holes just the back panel area). I think my GFX card is too big for it's own good and it could be blocking the air passage way for CPU too. Loads of theories... I've uploaded some pics of my setup to show you what its like. Plus I'm unsure about the whole positive and negative pressure idea so if somebody could enlighten me on to which is more suited for my case. SO..... If anyone can give me any suggestions on how I should setup my fans for better airflow please comment. I need all the help I can get!

Unregistered.

Kevinf63 wrote: »

Okay, I've been having some doubts about my setups airflow. I have Antec 300 case with a PSU facing upwards (its fan facing towards graphic card), with a huge MSI R5850 Twin Frozr II squeezed in with a AMD stock cooler (I know shameful!)

At the moment its set up so I have two 120mm intake fans at the front blowing air into the case through the hard drive placed in the middle of all the bays. that goes into the motherboard, GFX card and other things but I think its not getting there. Because usually when I have the heating on in the house (usually around 20-25 Celsius) and Im playing games on it(Im unsure/not positive if heat is defo the prob but its a factor) I sometimes have BSOD's between 5 minutes to even 2-3 hours gameplay either containing all different error messages (most common in Bad Company 2 is Dxgmms1.sys).

Also I have two exhaust fans (one 120mm on the rear and 140mm on top of case) that blow air out of the case. The PC is sitting under a computer desk in a fairly tight space. PSU fan is as far as I know an exhaust fan (like most of them) and I think it might be sucking the cool intake fan's air out of the case before it even hits the mobo, GFX card and CPU which is worrying. Plus I've got an optional 120mm sidepanel case fan spot thats not used, if somebody has suggestions on moving one of the fans around thats somewhere to think of.

As you might remember (Solitaire) I'm the same guy who had the crazy 38,000 RPM CPU fan problem a while ago (Which I think is sorted but now I have to deal with this....). I fear that one or a lot of the components might be broken (why? I honestly don't know! Probably just my luck....). I've realitively good cable tidying considering I have an Antec 300 (has no rerouting holes just the back panel area). I've uploaded some pics of my setup to show you what its like. Plus I'm unsure about the whole positive and negative pressure idea so if somebody could enlighten me on to which is more suited for my case. SO..... If anyone can give me any suggestions on how I should setup my fans for better airflow please comment. I need all the help I can get!

If you think it's related to high temps then you need to tell us what temps you are getting. However, I'm gonna go with a hunch and say check your drivers and memory.

Kevinf63

Unregistered. wrote: »

If you think it's related to high temps then you need to tell us what temps you are getting. However, I'm gonna go with a hunch and say check your drivers and memory.

I've checked my drivers by reinstalling, driver sweeping and did memtest on RAM with no success and no bad results in memtest. Certain programs like Firefox crash for no reason too. It's a windows 7 64 bit system. My antivirus Avast Internet Security, I might add doesn't like the not so recent ATI 10.9 drivers, it just fails to install. But the hotfix version it took no prob and same with 10.10.

GFX card temps gets to 60-70 max on load with 50% fan speed. CPU gets to around 50-60 max on load but I think it might be worse than that. It might read as that temp, but believe me when I say I feel air after a BSOD coming out of the exhaust fans that are nearly as hot as the steam rising from a dish washer when you open it, I ain't lying and I'm not taking those temps for granted.

Unregistered.

What about idle? The only situation i can think of, in relation to airflow, which would cause a problem is that the exhaust fans are sucking out too much air and the gfx card is "fighting" to get some.

Kevinf63

Unregistered. wrote: »

What about idle? The only situation i can think of, in relation to airflow, which would cause a problem is that the exhaust fans are sucking out too much air and the gfx card is "fighting" to get some.

GFX temps currently 28-30 degrees idle with 30% Gfx fan speed and 1555 RPM. CPU cores idle are all averaging in at 32 degrees with 1060 RPM CPU fan speed. Hard drive is at 20 degrees.

I think this info below was taken at night during idle process on CPUID's HWMonitor with the heating on in the house. Not sure but it looks like it was.

---

Hardware monitor AMD Phenom II X4 955
Power 0 20.00 W (Processor)
Temperature 0 35°C (94°F) [0x114] (Core #0)
Temperature 1 35°C (94°F) [0x114] (Core #1)
Temperature 3 35°C (94°F) [0x114] (Core #3)
Temperature 2 35°C (94°F) [0x114] (Core #2)

Hardware monitor Radeon HD 5850
Temperature 0 38°C (99°F) (GPU Core)

Hardware monitor SAMSUNG HD502HJ
Temperature 0 25°C (77°F) [0x19] (Assembly)

Unregistered.

Kevinf63 wrote: »

GFX temps currently 28-30 degrees idle with 30% Gfx fan speed and 1555 RPM. CPU cores idle are all averaging in at 32 degrees with 1060 RPM CPU fan speed. Hard drive is at 20 degrees.

I think this info below was taken at night during idle process on CPUID's HWMonitor with the heating on in the house. Not sure but it looks like it was.

---

Hardware monitor AMD Phenom II X4 955
Power 0 20.00 W (Processor)
Temperature 0 35°C (94°F) [0x114] (Core #0)
Temperature 1 35°C (94°F) [0x114] (Core #1)
Temperature 3 35°C (94°F) [0x114] (Core #3)
Temperature 2 35°C (94°F) [0x114] (Core #2)

Hardware monitor Radeon HD 5850
Temperature 0 38°C (99°F) (GPU Core)

Hardware monitor SAMSUNG HD502HJ
Temperature 0 25°C (77°F) [0x19] (Assembly)

Nothing unusual there. Load temps are fine as well.

uberpixie

Unregistered. wrote: »

Nothing unusual there. Load temps are fine as well.

+1

Temps are fine, your issues are elsewhere....

I once had random blue screens which were driver related with a Nvidia 800GTS 320mb. So a blue screen doesn't automatically mean something hardware wise is kaput.

All you can do is systematically test each part in your pc until you nail the cause.
A good start is here: http://www.ultimatebootcd.com/

Burn one of theses off, this boot cd contains a battery of tests you can use to test your harddrive,ram, cpu etc... So will help nail the issue down hopefully.
Try that and tell us how you get on. Best of luck.

nvus

1st things 1st, if your PSU is on the bottom of the case flip it back its not doing anygood there as an exhaust! they really only help if they're at the top of the case, and then n only then are they for removing radiant heat (hot pockets that build over time +1c per hour)

Then make only one fan your exhaust I suggest the 120mm and turn all to intakes this should give you positive pressure in the case and keep all that air moving and not sitting static.

Make sure your PC is clean!

POSITIVE PRESSURE

http://www.demcifilter.com/filters_performance.php#positive_pressure

POSITIVE PRESSURE

Air (and dust)) enters and exits your computer case in three ways and if these can be controlled then it would be possible to have a dust free and cool running computer at the same time. These are:

• dedicated air intake vents or ports
• dedicated air exhaust ports
• and most difficult of all to control, all the other openings in the structure of the case. This includes but is not limited to: optic drives like CD and DVD drives, USB, Firewire and all other I/O ports, non air-tight panels and any other crack or opening in the case.

The first two types are fairly easy to control as fans can be used to move predetermined amounts of air in any direction desired. Because of the sheer variety of case types and configurations involved in the third type it will be virtually impossible to control. The secret in achieving this is called "positive pressure" and this concept is widely used in the medical and telecommunication fields (and others) where creating dust free environments are essential. The basics are like this:

Theory
If more air enters the case through the intake fans than air leaving through the exhaust fans the surplus air will be forced out through any other gap or crevice in the case, preventing dust from entering by this route. This equates to positive pressure.
Positive pressure inside your case will help keep it clean and therefore cooler. In the real world this is more difficult to achieve because of computer cases being very "leaky" and most fans having fairly poor delivery capacity. The more air you put into the case the faster it will run out the other side (through exhaust fans and case openings combined).
This situation however is changing fairly rapidly as cases are being built better and the choice and quality of fans are improving constantly.

Method
All fans have a CFM (cubic feet per minute) rating. This rating tells you how many cubic feet of air the fan is able to move in one minute. A fan's CFM ratings are achieved by various means like fan speed (RPM or revolutions per minute), the size, depth, shape and angle of the fan blades as well as the number of fan blades. Normal 80mm fans have between 6 and 8 blades that push less than 20CFM. To create positive or neutral pressure the total CFM sum of the intake fans must be higher or equal to the total CFM sum of air extracted from the case.

To Calculate what you need to setup positive pressure in your computer or electronic unit's case, please follow the information and instructions below.

How to determine CFM ratings of fans:

CFM ratings of fans are usually indicated on the packaging or the fan itself but in case of this information not being available, contact the manufacturer of the fan through their websites. If you are unsure contact your dealer.


Factors to take into account:

• Filter rating - CFM inhibited by filter action (% of filtered intake). By it's very nature all filters will affect the flow of air. DEMCiflex Filters has been optimize to have the least affect on airflow while still stopping dust into your unit..

• Internal fans - CFM in needed to cool components. These are fans inside the case of your computer and will include CPU fan(s), graphic card fans, HDD cooling fans etc.
• Intake fans - CFM in. These fans are situated on the case of the computer drawing air into the case.
• Exhaust fans - CFM out. These fans might be found on the case of the computer as well as power supply units and PCI slot fans. It expels air out of the computer case.
• Openings in case - CFM in either direction. All other unfanned openings leading into and out of the case

Filter rating: F
This rating will depend on the filter rating you are using. This is expressed as a percentage and is indicated on the packaging. Example: If the filter rating is 15 it will inhibit 15% of the air from entering the computer case. This sum will have to be added to the required CFM of air needed for the intake fan(s) to compensate for the loss of air. Let´s call the filter rating value F. Remember that this is a percentage value. DEMCiflex Filters are rated at 15.

How to determine the CFM sum of the internal fans: C
Add all the internal fans CFM ratings together. This is the minimum CFM of air that is needed to cool the internal components like CPUs, RAM and graphic cards. Call this value C


How to determine the CFM sum of the intake fans: A

Add all the CFM ratings of the fans blowing air from outside the computer case into the case together. Call this value A

How to determine the total air intake into the computer: T
Deduct the filter rating value (F) from the CFM sum of the intake fan(s). Call this value T

How to determine exhaust fans CFM rating: E
Add the CFM ratings of all the fans blowing air out of the computer together. This will include the power supply unit fan(s), PCI slot exhaust fans and in some cases the graphics card fans. (Some graphics cards have their own exhaust systems.) Call this value E

How to determine the CFM sum for openings in the case:
As this value could be positive or negative we can assume that this value will always be equal to the total value of the CFM of air leaving the case. Without intake fans this would be true as the same amount of air will replace the air leaving the case.

How to calculate intake CFM needed:
Internal fans like your CPU and graphic card cooling fans CFM rating can be used to help determine the minimum CFM intake. Intake fans CFM rating must be at least but preferably higher than these combined as this is the minimum amount of air that the computer uses for cooling. When your total CFM sum entering the case (after filter rating is subtracted) is more than the CFM sum leaving the case through the fans it equate to positive pressure. The surplus air will force its way out of the case through any other openings like optical disk drives, card readers etc. and so help to keep these components clean.

Calculation:
Determine the value of C
If you use DEMCiflex Filters the value of F will be 15%
Multiply F with A. This value is T
T has to be bigger than C and bigger than E to achieve positive pressure with adequate cooling. If T is smaller than C the components will not get fed enough air to satisfy its demand for cooling. If T is smaller than E negative pressure will be present forcing air(and dust) to be fed through all the unfanned openings to satisfy this demand.

Formula as follows:.

A - (F x A) = T
T - E = Positive or Negative CFM

Using the values in our Positive Pressure example below, our calculation are as follows.

C = 150
F = 15%
A = 200
E =100

200 - (15% x 200) = 170
170 - 100 = +70CFM

So in this case you will have 70 CFM of air leaving the case through unprotected cracks and openings of the case. Positive pressure is achieved! The more porous the case is the higher this value will have to be.

Kevinf63

Thanks to all of you for the posts.

uberpixie wrote: »

I once had random blue screens which were driver related with a Nvidia 800GTS 320mb. So a blue screen doesn't automatically mean something hardware wise is kaput.

All you can do is systematically test each part in your pc until you nail the cause.
A good start is here: http://www.ultimatebootcd.com/

Try that and tell us how you get on. Best of luck.

@uberpixie Ill try UBCD for Windows when I have the time and I'll post back in a while. If by any chance its a driver fault or registry fault can it be fixed through UBCD?

nvus wrote: »

1st things 1st, if your PSU is on the bottom of the case flip it back its not doing anygood there as an exhaust!

Then make only one fan your exhaust I suggest the 120mm and turn all to intakes this should give you positive pressure in the case and keep all that air moving and not sitting static.

@nvus, I turned the PSU back the right way again. I've kept the fans in the same place but switched the exhaust fans both to low and intake to medium. This means in terms of case fans anyway that I have positive pressure I think. Looked up CFM of all the fans. That was very handy that info thanks a lot. By the way the fans are all 4 pin molex so no fan control other than switches on the side of them.

I was thinking though that I might get another case fan for the side panel (120mm) of the same make switch the front intake fans to low, leave the side fan on medium and leave the exhausts at low too. And of course leaving the PSU the right way. Do you think that would work?

Unregistered.

Kevinf63 wrote: »

Thanks to all of you for the posts.




@uberpixie Ill try UBCD for Windows when I have the time and I'll post back in a while. If by any chance its a driver fault or registry fault can it be fixed through UBCD?



@nvus, I turned the PSU back the right way again. I've kept the fans in the same place but switched the exhaust fans both to low and intake to medium. This means in terms of case fans anyway that I have positive pressure I think. Looked up CFM of all the fans. That was very handy that info thanks a lot. By the way the fans are all 4 pin molex so no fan control other than switches on the side of them.

I was thinking though that I might get another case fan for the side panel (120mm) of the same make switch the front intake fans to low, leave the side fan on medium and leave the exhausts at low too. And of course leaving the PSU the right way. Do you think that would work?

No, the temps are fine.

Kevinf63

Unregistered. wrote: »

No, the temps are fine.

Fair enough, I'll post sooner this week about finding the source of problem if I ever do.... Thanks unreg!

Edit: I forgot is it normal to have a good bit of solid dust on the blades of the exhaust fans? Cause I have a lot of dust on the side of the blades facing towards the outside of the case, As if the dust comes from outside the case and forms a layer of dust on the blades. Although that wouldn't really make sense since they're exhaust fans. Any ideas?

Unregistered.

Kevinf63 wrote: »

Fair enough, I'll post sooner this week about finding the source of problem if I ever do.... Thanks unreg!

Edit: I forgot is it normal to have a good bit of solid dust on the blades of the exhaust fans? Cause I have a lot of dust on the side of the blades facing towards the outside of the case, As if the dust comes from outside the case and forms a layer of dust on the blades. Although that wouldn't really make sense since they're exhaust fans. Any ideas?

I've the 300 and the top fan (exhaust) always gets dusty like that. Inside the case is fairly clean though so it does it's job!

nvus

I'd clean those fans though. It tends to turn bad when you ignore such things, for sure your not getting full performance out of them while they've got crud on them, Interestingly enough its mostly dried skin I hear!

But do your self a favour and buy a rheostats type fan controller, they're very cheap about 3/4€ and pretty easy to set up and you could control your 2 front 120s and say the side-panel fan with just one of them and and if you learn to love them get another one for the top fans and the rear fan.

But clean the blades just use some canned air (8€) while the PC is off and a un-used soft paint brush and give it a few short blasts of air, use a toothpick or q-tip to stop them from spinning while your cleaning them.

Effluo

I'[d just get the hoover at the two extracting fans on the Antec 300. Be careful if you do get canned air that you blow dust out of the case rather than into it.

I had something like the problems your experiencing occur with vista 64 bit before and my god... It drove me crazy, I tried EVERYTHING and just reformatted the pc in the end. That's what I'd recommend to you, random hangs would usually suggest some kind of hardware failure, but in my case it was just windows.

Considering how you've been getting normal results from all your components so far then my next step would be a full reformat.

Kevinf63

Effluo wrote: »

Considering how you've been getting normal results from all your components so far then my next step would be a full reformat.

Yeah, I had Windows 32 bit before this 64 bit on the system..... Same probs. i thought it was originally the 32 bit OS screwing up the mainly 64 bit components (AMD CPU and RAM built for 64 bit in mind) . Had loads of errors in my RAM (memtest) and I had to RMA it and so I reformatted and switched to 64 bit. So far no errors this time with memtest but still the same problems with BSODs. So frustrating.... This is my first build and everything that could of gone wrong.... HAS. GONE. WRONG.

Wouldn't turn on at the start, fixed that prob, then I turned it on installed Windows 7 grand. BSOD on logon. WTH? Fixed that too. Cant wait to try out my games on the HD5850 GFX card. Boom headsho.... aah! God damn BSOD! PC restarts and put my hand over the fans, as hot as a sauna. Check the readings... They are fine... This makes no sense!

I wake up one morning... Windows is gone. Vanished into thin air. Even boot manager had been corrupted so couldn't boot to a CD or USB! had my suspicions it was the RAM, so I ripped out one stick. It worked and I reinstalled Windows 7. I shut it down. Reinstalled the stick of RAM again and Gave the old memtest a try. 20,000 errors.... on ONE RAM stick. how? All I did was turn the PC off? So then I decided to get 64 bit as the RAM was being RMAed.

And to this day I still get these annoying BSOD's...:(... and by the way I'm after getting a reading off HWMonitor saying I'm getting 130*C off of TEMPIN2... If only I knew what the hell that even was.

P.S. sorry for the rant. That's essentially what happened in the last few months with my PC.

the untitled user

I've had similar behavior from an overheating CPU before, it eventually took the motherboard with it. Turns out the CPU cooler wasn't mounted properly and the heatsink seemed to be failing to connect with the CPU as the fan kicked in higher. So remount the cooler if you haven't already is my first suggestion.

Secondly, first thing I do whenever I suspect a PC is overheating is to clean out the interior of dust, and I've seen pretty big drops in temps from doing this alone. After all, if a heatsink is covered in a fine layer of dust, the dust acts as an insulator and prevents the heat from being dissipated into the air. And if you exhaust fans are dusty, it's a good bet that your heatsinks will be too.

That you notice though the air is hot does point to a lack of airflow I think. For example, my i7 generates enough heat to keep the room warm in winter (with the windows open). But at no point does it ever feel hot to the touch. Here's a suggestion: Remove the remaining 5.25'' drive covers, and retro fit one of the intake fans to the rear of the 5.25'' cage (using cable ties or similar). Tbh i would be surprised if that alone fixed anything, but there's no harm in it to aid the airflow.

Btw, I've no idea what TEMPIN2 is, but that's worrying. Check what order other apps report your temps in (or your BIOS?), should help you narrow down what it is.

Kevinf63

the untitled user wrote: »

I've had similar behavior from an overheating CPU before, it eventually took the motherboard with it. Turns out the CPU cooler wasn't mounted properly and the heatsink seemed to be failing to connect with the CPU as the fan kicked in higher. So remount the cooler if you haven't already is my first suggestion.

My cooler is stock with just pre-applied thermal paste. hmmm... Could be the problem. The wonky temp readings sound like a broken mobo temp monitor or worse to me though. Is it okay to put a bit of force into taking the CPU cooler out? I was thinking about getting a new third party cooler anyway for Christmas. Might solve my problem.

the untitled user wrote: »

Secondly,whenever I suspect a PC is overheating is to clean out the interior of dust, and I've seen pretty big drops in temps from doing this alone. After all, if a heatsink is covered in a fine layer of dust, the dust acts as an insulator and prevents the heat from being dissipated into the air. And if you exhaust fans are dusty, it's a good bet that your heatsinks will be too.

Ill check that out this weekend. Ill give it all a try. Is it alright to use canned air around the CPU area when the CPU fan is removed?

the untitled user wrote: »

Btw, I've no idea what TEMPIN2 is, but that's worrying. Check what order other apps report your temps in (or your BIOS?), should help you narrow down what it is.

Another thing that pops up is an extra unknown fan on HWMonitor with a minimum of 0 RPM to 15000 RPM. and the CPU fan is coming in at 5000 RPM occasionally even though Im not doing anything besides looking at the readings(usually 1500 RPM idle and 3000-4000 RPM on load). Take a look at the pic to see what I mean.... It comes back after 5 minutes from restarting then...

nvus

never reseat your CPU, there is no need, and some CPU's have a seat count. that means it wont work after its been seated a fixed amount of times, clean the cooler fine and put more paste on for sure once you've cleaned it but try not to remove the CPU unless you know for sure you can.

Hank Scorpio

nvus wrote: »

never reseat your CPU, there is no need, and some CPU's have a seat count. that means it wont work after its been seated a fixed amount of times, clean the cooler fine and put more paste on for sure once you've cleaned it but try not to remove the CPU unless you know for sure you can.

^ Never seen that before

Kevinf63

nvus wrote: »

never reseat your CPU, there is no need, and some CPU's have a seat count. that means it wont work after its been seated a fixed amount of times, clean the cooler fine and put more paste on for sure once you've cleaned it but try not to remove the CPU unless you know for sure you can.

Sorry, I kinda phrased that wrong, I never intended to remove CPU, just its heatsink/fan.

the untitled user

Kevinf63 wrote: »

Another thing that pops up is an extra unknown fan on HWMonitor with a minimum of 0 RPM to 15000 RPM. and the CPU fan is coming in at 5000 RPM occasionally even though Im not doing anything besides looking at the readings(usually 1500 RPM idle and 3000-4000 RPM on load). Take a look at the pic to see what I mean.... It comes back after 5 minutes from restarting then...

Again, I started seeing this type of behavior when the mobo died on the overheating PC I mentioned above.

What happens if you go into the BIOS? Is there anything in the temps that shows up there that it could be?

What worries me is that if you compare the temps of TEMPIN2 in both pics it's a match for Core3 of the CPU!

Btw, what happens if you run the likes of Prime95? Can your PC run it successfully?

Kevinf63

the untitled user wrote: »

Again, I started seeing this type of behavior when the mobo died on the overheating PC I mentioned above.

What happens if you go into the BIOS? Is there anything in the temps that shows up there that it could be?

What worries me is that if you compare the temps of TEMPIN2 in both pics it's a match for Core3 of the CPU!

Btw, what happens if you run the likes of Prime95? Can your PC run it successfully?

Okay, I decided to remove HWMonitor and all speedfan data. And then I installed AIDA64 (essentially EVEREST Ultimate Edition) instead. I'm going to do tests on Friday. Ill post them up to all of you. Doing a prime95 test and keeping AIDA64 open. I hope it will be all okay... Otherwise...:(

Kevinf63

uberpixie wrote: »

+1

A good start is here: http://www.ultimatebootcd.com/

@uberpixie Do I have to get UBCD4Win or just UBCD? Cause I got Windows 7 64 bit and its not compatible as far as I know. I get all errors using UBCD4Win. Will I just use regular old UBCD?

Unregistered.

What RAM are you using? What speed/latecy/voltage is it running at? Are you overclocking anything?

Kevinf63

Unregistered. wrote: »

What RAM are you using? What speed/latecy/voltage is it running at? Are you overclocking anything?

4GB Corsair XMS3 kit 1333MHZ CL9 bought from Komplett and I think its discontinued. Take a look at the pic if it makes any sense to you cause to me its all over the gaff (its details on one stick of RAM can't see the rest of details cause its Trial Version of AIDA64). No I haven't overclocked anything. But is there a way to set everything back to stock including memory, CPU, GFX card etc. all at once in the BIOS (hopefully without removing the battery..:o..)?

Kevinf63

the untitled user wrote: »

Btw, what happens if you run the likes of Prime95? Can your PC run it successfully?

@the untitled user
Well I ran an Everes.... I mean AIDA64 Stress test today, stresses everything except GFX card. And these are the results below.

Unregistered.

Kevinf63 wrote: »

4GB Corsair XMS3 kit 1333MHZ CL9 bought from Komplett and I think its discontinued. Take a look at the pic if it makes any sense to you cause to me its all over the gaff (its details on one stick of RAM can't see the rest of details cause its Trial Version of AIDA64). No I haven't overclocked anything. But is there a way to set everything back to stock including memory, CPU, GFX card etc. all at once in the BIOS (hopefully without removing the battery..:o..)?

Should be an option in your bios. Update your bios while you're at it.

nvus

go to Hardware control Panel and find your Graphics card and delete it and when it asks you if you want to delete the driver too choose yes/ok
restart and re-download your driver but try it with what ever your OS finds first, i.e. whatever driver it installs after reboot

Kevinf63

Unregistered. wrote: »

Should be an option in your bios. Update your bios while you're at it.

Bios is updated to latest already (F4) and I think the setting to revert back is "Fail-Safe Defaults" which I've done too.

nvus wrote: »

go to Hardware control Panel and find your Graphics card and delete it and when it asks you if you want to delete the driver too choose yes/ok
restart and re-download your driver but try it with what ever your OS finds first, i.e. whatever driver it installs after reboot

Ha! Did that too, today infact but after that I installed the catalyst suite (10.10) separately. I also switched my hard drive to AMD AHCI driver as funny enough it was set to the slightly slower IDE . I have faster boot-times and profile loading now.

However it says my system is still using an IDE-PCI controller driver (or something along those lines) with my ATA ports at the same time for something... Is it the GFX card? I cant tell but it has reg entries and it reinstalls itself if you click check for hardware changes straight after uninstall.

the untitled user

Kevinf63 wrote: »

@the untitled user
Well I ran an Everes.... I mean AIDA64 Stress test today, stresses everything except GFX card. And these are the results below.

Some very healthy temps there, nothing wrong with that CPU seemingly. To put your mind at rest, the similarities between your machine and the one I had end there (mine didn't survive much of Prime).

If you wanted to stress the GFX, there's always furmark.

Btw, are you still noticing very hot air coming out the back now? I still find it very odd that you noticed it.

Kevinf63

the untitled user wrote: »

1.
If you wanted to stress the GFX, there's always furmark.

2.
Btw, are you still noticing very hot air coming out the back now? I still find it very odd that you noticed it.

1.
I use MSI Kombustor (Furmark) for GFX stressing, same idea except a big MSI waving around the place.

2.
No, not at all (Used to get it straight after some BSODs), It might of been a hot pocket of air that my fans weren't getting at because of the PSU fan sucking all the cold air out. I'm gonna test when I'm home later today. I stressed it already with Kombustor survives that and did the AIDA64 stress test, survived that for 10 minutes (stopped it at 10). Gona play a good few games different games over the week. I might just leave Bad Company 2 out of the test games list as its incredibly glitchy anyway with all the CTD's I get as well. Mind other than that, I have no real "new" games apart Source games fully updated. (orange box)

I might just just get another fan if it continues to BSOD for the reason (besides the temps) of cleaning hot pocket areas out of the case. My only intake fans are at the front of the case. By the time that air has gotten to the Mobo and GFX card it will be starting to get on the warm side. So this fan will also provide straight in cool air for the GFX Mobo, and maybe some CPU too if the GFX card doesn't hog it (My GFX card http://www.hitechreview.com/uploads/2010/03/R5850-Twin-Frozr-II.jpg) as well as cleaning out those hot pockets.