first try at 300yrds

virminhunter

hi all, this is my first attempt at shooting at this distance, it took me about twenty rounds to get sighted in but i'm delighted with the results, i got the idea for the target from that you tube video on long range shooting in wales, its building site marking paint sprayed on a steel plate the bullet marks are clearly visible through my 3x10x50 at 300yrds!

i,m using a cz kevlar firing 50grain american eagle hollow points, can't wait for a magpie to land out here!!!

tomcat220t

Really fine shooting.

johngalway

Good going fella

virminhunter

cheers lads, a 5mile an hour breeze(guess) moved the rounds 4or5 inches over it must do all the moving after 200yrds when the power dies down i wouldnt take a breeze like that into consideration at all at 200yrds

Thomasofmel

Good shooting

jwshooter

the best thing about gun ownership is ,shooting it

greenpeter

Nice shooting and a fine piece of ground.
What scope you using?

virminhunter

its a simmons whitetail 3.5x10x50 i paid €300 for it 4 or 5 years ago, great little scope just goes to show you don't need a nightforce to get decent groups at this range...:)

kay 9

great little scope just goes to show you don't need a nightforce to get decent groups at this range...:)[/QUOTE]
Well said;)

greenpeter

True i'm still learing with the 223.
I have a hawke yoke on it, grand to 200is yards on a nice day but not worth a s**t at night.

kay 9

greenpeter wrote: »

True i'm still learing with the 223.
I have a hawke yoke on it, grand to 200is yards on a nice day but not worth a s**t at night.

Yeah, shootin at night is a totally different tiger..harder judge distance and fair light transmission in a scope is a gift, that's where the zeiss and the likes comes into their own and 150yds+ is a long way at night:D

virminhunter

true, if i had the money for a nightforce i'd go buy one in the morning...

jwshooter

virminhunter wrote: »

true, if i had the money for a nightforce i'd go buy one in the morning...

thats good shooting in any ones book , a night force will not make you any better

Tackleberrywho

jwshooter wrote: »

thats good shooting in any ones book , a night force will not make you any better

Just after coming in from a walk in the hills.
I have a NF but 8x was to fuzzy to see the fox clearly long enough to get a shot off.
I think he had a bunny in his Jaws, he was in a nice trot so it was hard to see.

A low mag scope would have been good enough to get him from the shoulder.

Scopes can be brilliant in the right setting.
I had the sunshade on which did not help either.

Thats good shooting and gave me a great idea for the gong.
I have a person who can get me 2 reinforcement bars tomorrow, and that plate will do me too.

the only thing a more powerful scope will do is give you more zoom in bright conditions 10:20 would take a great scope at this time of year to be clear @8x

I would have sold my soul for my 5.5-22x56 at that moment not an 8-32;) Or even a simmons on low mag!!:D

poulo6.5

lovely little group. it will give you great confidence out hunting.
keep up the good work;)

kay 9

jwshooter wrote: »

thats good shooting in any ones book , a night force will not make you any better

+1

FISMA

First try?!?! Verrrry nice, that's spot on! You'll be bring home the bacon, err, venison, if that indeed is your game.

One shot does look like the wind got you. The other two are nice and consistent. All three are kill shots.

What's the angle of drop? Did you compensate - cosine stuff? From the picture it looks as if there's a nice drop, you're shooting is spot on, I would think you had to calculate.

Bit of advice.

Paint the target a more muted color, white isn't bad. Get the color as close to whatever it is that you plan to take. Don't use those orange or green targets. First day in the field, heart pumping, you'll be hard pressed to acquire the target in the time you're likely to be presented.

Watch for splash. We've all been there with the scope: going through a box of ammo, clicking clock-wise, counter, and nothing making sense. However, if you watch your splash, especially if you have a spotter, you should get plinking before half a box. Five should do.

Also, know thy scope. Once I shot your group, the first thing I would have done would be to drop the elevation a click. I bet you would have been hitting bulls-eyes.

You'll be surprised at how fast you'll shoot, see the splash, take a click or two, and get back on target, and game over with the second shot. Not sure what you're discipline is, but I am always amazed at how many deer present a better second shot to shooters.

virminhunter

The elevation, thats the angle from rifle to target? i think its about level, i fired these shots with a two hundred yard zero using the point of aim i showed in my second photo(the scope picture) i recon if i try the same point of aim with a hundred yard zero it'll be spot on.

correct me if i'm wrong but .25moa(one click) at a hundred yards is .25 moa at 300yards and not .75, am i right?

thanks for the replies everyone their much appreciated...:)

virminhunter

never done any deer hunting its something I'd love to do though, that cz kevlar's the only firearm I own at the moment I had to sell my shotgun last christmas to pay the bills:mad: might try to get into it when things start to pick up a bit...

Rovi

virminhunter wrote: »

correct me if i'm wrong but .25moa(one click) at a hundred yards is .25 moa at 300yards and not .75, am i right?

Correct.

At 100 yards, that .25MOA = (approx.) 1/4" on the target
At 300 yards, .25MOA = (approx.) 3/4" on the target

virminhunter

Rovi wrote: »

Correct.

At 100 yards, that .25MOA = (approx.) 1/4" on the target
At 300 yards, .25MOA = (approx.) 3/4" on the target

Really???, i was full sure .25moa at 100yards would be the same a 300yards, i go up 8 click(2moa) to zero at 200yard if i need to zero at 300yards i need to go up 11moa from a 100yard zero so thats only 15 clicks instead of 44?

Tackleberrywho

virminhunter wrote: »

Really???, i was full sure .25moa at 100yards would be the same a 300yards, i go up 8 click(2moa) to zero at 200yard if i need to zero at 300yards i need to go up 11moa from a 100yard zero so thats only 15 clicks instead of 44?

It's like if you zero at 25 you will require less clicks to move POI than at 100
my scope is 1/4" at 100 which means 1/2@50

At MNSCI we have a 25 yard target that can get you a 600 or a 1000 yard Zero from shooting 25yards.

I watched Ezri and dC yesterday have no issues grouping at 600 from a 25yard zero.
You have to imagine that there is an angle, and that by adjusting your scope you are increasing or decreasing this angle.
In an angle if you increase it say by 1deg the point where the angle intersects increases in with the further the range.


Hard to explain as good as these guys.
http://riflestocks.tripod.com/moa.html

virminhunter

thanks for that link tackleberry its helpful...

Tackleberrywho

virminhunter wrote: »

thanks for that link tackleberry its helpful...

Figure it out on small scale and then you will get it on large scale.

Ezridax is some man on teh clicks

For example my scope has a 200 yard Zero (1.4~") at 100

So it is 7~ inches low at 300 with 55 grain .223

my scope has lines that are 2moa apart on the reticle, for 300+yards i uses the second-third line down from the middle and that has me hitting bunnies @300-400

I cojuld go clicking here up or down, but I would be afraid I would forget to click her back.

The angle Cosine craic is a little bit trickier to calculate.;)

clivej

Tackleberrywho wrote: »

Figure it out on small scale and then you will get it on large scale.

Ezridax is some man on teh clicks

For example my scope has a 200 yard Zero (1.4~") at 100

So it is 7~ inches low at 300 with 55 grain .223

my scope has lines that are 2moa apart on the reticle, for 300+yards i uses the second-third line down from the middle and that has me hitting bunnies @300-400

I cojuld go clicking here up or down, but I would be afraid I would forget to click her back.

The angle Cosine craic is a little bit trickier to calculate.;)

2moa apart on the reticle-
But is that not at a set mag on the scope, if you change mag then the MOA between mlidots will also change??

Tackleberrywho

clivej wrote: »

2moa apart on the reticle-
But is that not at a set mag on the scope, if you change mag then the MOA between mlidots will also change??

What makes the Nightforce NP-R2 reticle truly unique. The vertical line of the NP-R2 reticle is divided into 2 M.O.A. increments (approx. 2 inches at 100 yards). These vertical increments are used for range estimation, multiple zero points and accurate bullet drop compensation. Any size target can be easily ranged using a simple formula: (target size in inches ÷ M.O.A. x 100 = range in yards). Once range is determined select an appropriate hold point based on the bullet drop of your cartridge. The vertical spacings can easily be split into 1 M.O.A. increments further enhancing long-range accuracy. The horizontal line is divided into equal 5 M.O.A. increments for windage compensation.

All I know it got me several bunnies!
http://nightforceoptics.com/nightforcescopes/RETICLES_OVERVIEW/RETICLES_DETAIL/NP-R2_Close_Range_copy.pdf

clivej

virminhunter
good shooting that is and it's not easy to get right.

I was out a few weeks back and could only hit a 10" steel plate @300y with the 308 1 in 5 times.

So it was back to basics and find out what I was doing wrong. First was the scope mounts are high so I raised the cheek of the stock with foam under an elasticated cheek-piece bullet holder. Next was the bi-pod, I was using the 13"-27" and I was resting on my elbows, so a change to the 6"-9" bi-pod. What this all ment was I was not steady before and taking the shot.

Next outing I dialed in 4.1MOA from my drop chart, zeroed @100y, and pop first shot bang on and so were the rest - also hitting clays at @300y.

Now I'm ready for the 1st Sep.

clivej

clivej wrote: »

2moa apart on the reticle-
But is that not at a set mag on the scope, if you change mag then the MOA between mlidots will also change??

Tackleberrywho wrote: »

What makes the Nightforce NP-R2 reticle truly unique. The vertical line of the NP-R2 reticle is divided into 2 M.O.A. increments (approx. 2 inches at 100 yards). These vertical increments are used for range estimation, multiple zero points and accurate bullet drop compensation. Any size target can be easily ranged using a simple formula: (target size in inches ÷ M.O.A. x 100 = range in yards). Once range is determined select an appropriate hold point based on the bullet drop of your cartridge. The vertical spacings can easily be split into 1 M.O.A. increments further enhancing long-range accuracy. The horizontal line is divided into equal 5 M.O.A. increments for windage compensation.

All I know it got me several bunnies!
http://nightforceoptics.com/nightforcescopes/RETICLES_OVERVIEW/RETICLES_DETAIL/NP-R2_Close_Range_copy.pdf

But that's not what I said is it now!
It would depend on if the reticle is etched on the 1st or 2nd vertical plain would it not?

dwighet

Well done mate....
Great grouping.
Its good to hear another cz succes story...

500 yards next hey?
Go On, You know you want ta..;)

Tackleberrywho

clivej wrote: »

But that's not what I said is it now!
It would depend on if the reticle is etched on the 1st or 2nd vertical plain would it not?

I quoted NF website as I get in sooooooooooo much trouble from one or two on here if I speak from memory and make a mistake!

I've never gone beyond 400 so I have not tested it out.
I was considering it yesterday however I only have 1 box of ammo left pending intershoots ammo in a week or two.

The Reticles are etched I do not know which focal plane as I have never taken my scope apart!

ormondprop

if the reticle stays the same size when you zoom your scope its on the 2nd focal planewhich means that your 2moa lines will only be 2moa apart at a fixed magnification, this should be stated on your instruction, but if your reticle changes size as the scope zooms in or out it is the first focal plane, this means the reticle stays at the same size ratio to your target so if your lines are 2moa apart they will be be 2moa apart at any zoom setting

Cass

Apologies in advance for the novel lads. Got carried away.:D

virminhunter wrote: »

..........i go up 8 click(2moa) to zero at 200yard if i need to zero at 300yards i need to go up 11moa from a 100yard zero so thats only 15 clicks instead of 44?

Just to recap.

Your zero at 100yds = 0 MOA.
Your zero at 200yds = 2 MOA (8 Clicks)
Your zero at 300yds = 11 MOA (44 clicks).

The above are taken from your post and based on the scope having a 1/4 click value @ 100yds then the above stands true. As Rovi said its 1/4" at 100yds, 1/2" at 200yds, 3/4" at 300yds and so on up to 1000yds. Thats click value now not MOA which simply is 4 times the click value. So at 100yds 1 MOA (4 clicks) is an inch. So on up to 1000yds.

If you moved up 2 MOA (8 clicks) from 100 to 200 yds and then 11 MOA (44 clicks) from 100 to 300 the the increase is obviously 9 MOA (36 clicks) from 200 to 300. If you did not move 9 MOA (36 clicks) i would not be too concerned as the click value may not give exact/true representation of the distnace the bullet actually moves. However if the difference is 15 clicks as opposed to 44 then there is either 2 possibilities. The count you made of your adjustments was wrong, or the bullet is moving very, very fast and dropping very little between 200 and 300 yds. Either way no harm to re-shoot and confirm adjustments.

The difference is while the scope moves in preset values at set distances the bullet due to its arced flight and wind drift will not move the exact amount the clicks represent at those preset distances. So if you are shooting at 500yds. You are 7.5 inches low. According to the scope you should move up 6 clicks. You do so, but realise you are still 1" low. This is because the bullet due to conditional elements and its very nature will not follow that rule. The scope values are indicators. Rather than wildly guessing and clicking up/down/left/right with no way of knowing how far you are moving the scope has these values so you can remember how much adjustment you made for a specific bullet.

The easiest way to describe it is. Sit down at 100yds. Take a 55gr bullet with a MV of 3300fps. Get your zero. Now fire a 40gr bullet with less MV. See the difference in POI. Do the same at 200, 300, etc. You will find one bullet will follow the click value of the scope quite closely, but "loosen" as the distance increases. While another bullet may not follow the click value as closely and require more or less adjustment than the distance indicates.

Okay i've just lost myself and got "blinkered" vision from typing. I hope i'm describing this okay otherwise it will read as pure nonsense.

Tackleberrywho wrote:

The Reticles are etched I do not know which focal plane as I have never taken my scope apart

The setting for using the Ranging settings on your scope should be in your instruction/info manual. For Nightforces they put it there on the magnification dial. Its the "R". Once the scope is set on this mag then the ranging settings of your reticle will work as they are intended to. For other models with no "R" the settings are as follows.

1-4 power @ 4 power
2.5 - 10 power @ 10 power
3.5 - 15 power @ 15 power
5.5 -22 power @ 22 power.

The 8-32 and 12-42 power scopes have the "R" marked on the magnification dial and should lie roughly half way (or a little more) in the settings. (22 power if i'm not mistaken)

A word of advise. Always record your adjustments. Whether they are permanent adjustments for your zeros or even slight adjustments for wind, rain, etc. Too many have been caught out with adjusting their scopes, forgetting/confusing the adjustments and then not resetting the scope correctly. Leading to misses the next time you fire. Do not be embarrassed about having a bit of paper with these numbers with you all the time. Can turn out to be a life saver.

Also no harm is when you have your main zero. ie. 100yds (or whatever it is you use) record the adjustments of the scope. Then re-zero your turret (if possible). Then dial the turret all the way down, while counting the clicks/MOA till it "bottoms out" as in there are no more downward clicks/MOA left. Should you get confused about where exactly your settings for your 100 yd zero are and you cannot remember simply "bottom out" the elevation turret and count up the clicks/MOA that you recorded earlier for your 100 yd zero.

virminhunter

If you moved up 2 MOA (8 clicks) from 100 to 200 yds and then 11 MOA (44 clicks) from 100 to 300 the the increase is obviously 9 MOA (36 clicks) from 200 to 300. If you did not move 9 MOA (36 clicks) i would not be too concerned as the click value may not give exact/true representation of the distnace the bullet actually moves. However if the difference is 15 clicks as opposed to 44 then there is either 2 possibilities. The count you made of your adjustments was wrong, or the bullet is moving very, very fast and dropping very little between 200 and 300 yds. Either way no harm to re-shoot and confirm adjustments.

I see what your saying, i said this while asking a question about zeroing i.e. the difference between a click at 100yrds and 300yrds, its not how i shot the target though, i shot using a 200yard zero using the point shown in my second picture as a point of aim i didnt actually dial the scope in so i was hitting bang on the crosshairs at 300yrds, i'll try this next though and see how it goes, it should be 11m.o.a.divided by .75 which equals 15 clicks up from a 100yrd zero right?

Cass

virminhunter wrote: »

.............. it should be 11m.o.a.divided by .75 which equals 15 clicks up from a 100yrd zero right?

At 300yds a single click will represent 0.75 inches. There are 4 clicks per minute (MOA) so its 0.75 x 4 = 3 inches or 1 MOA at 300yds.

11 MOA = 44 clicks. Remember that 4 clicks = 1 MOA (assuming your scope is 1/4 value per click at 100yds. So its either :

11 (MOA) x 3 = 33 inches
or
44 (clicks) x 0.75" = 33 inches.

virminhunter

sorry ezridax i'm gettin confused i'll try to explain i think i'm using the wrong terms, what i ment by up 11m.o.a. was that the bullet will drop 11inches from 100yrds to 300yrds( isaid moa when i shoulda said inches:rolleyes:)so to dial that in when one click is .75inches at 300yrds i divide 11inches by .75 which equals 15 clicks up.

sorry lads i'd say i'm boring the heads off yee now at this stage

Cass

virminhunter wrote: »

sorry ezridax i'm gettin confused i'll try to explain i think i'm using the wrong terms, what i ment by up 11m.o.a. was that the bullet will drop 11inches from 100yrds to 300yrds( isaid moa when i shoulda said inches:rolleyes:)so to dial that in when one click is .75inches at 300yrds i divide 11inches by .75 which equals 15 clicks up.

sorry lads i'd say i'm boring the heads off yee now at this stage

Correct and right so.

I was working of the MOA not inches.:o

Yes, measurable drop in inches is divided by 0.75 (@ 300yds) to give you the clicks. so if the POI difference is 11" divide it by 0.75 and you get your 15 clicks.



Or 3.75 MOA.

poulo6.5

ezridax wrote: »

Correct and right so.

I was working of the MOA not inches.:o

Yes, measurable drop in inches is divided by 0.75 (@ 300yds) to give you the clicks. so if the POI difference is 11" divide it by 0.75 and you get your 15 clicks.



Or 3.75 MOA.

just to confirm, my 300y adjustment is 4 MOA or 16 clicks, without getting technical each rifle and scope combo will be slightly different

Cass

poulo6.5 wrote: »

just to confirm, my 300y adjustment is 4 MOA or 16 clicks, without getting technical each rifle and scope combo will be slightly different

Yes.

If the scope adjustments state 1/4" click value at 100 yds then all scopes with 1/4 click value are the same, irrespective of make. The only differnence will be the bullets performance through the rifle.

Without rehashing the other post, each rifle with different grainage bullets will have different adjustments. The idea of the click values of the scopes are to give to an idea of the amount of clicks needed to adjust from your current POI to the intended POI.

Hope that is understandable. Never was great at explaining things.

Rovi

poulo6.5 wrote: »

just to confirm, my 300y adjustment is 4 MOA or 16 clicks, without getting technical each rifle and scope combo will be slightly different

And bullets don't fly in straight lines.

dwighet

Tackleberrywho wrote: »

I quoted NF website as I get in sooooooooooo much trouble from one or two on here if I speak from memory and make a mistake!

I've never gone beyond 400 so I have not tested it out.
I was considering it yesterday however I only have 1 box of ammo left pending intershoots ammo in a week or two.

The Reticles are etched I do not know which focal plane as I have never taken my scope apart!

Tac im pretty sure your nightforce reticle will be true 2moa hash marks on your verticle at 22x zoom...I recall asking nightforce about my old nxs mildot scope the same question..

Your best way to find out is to get in touch with nightforce or you can set up a target at 100yds and mark on it 2moa increments on a vertical line and adjust your zooms untill your hash marks on your verticle(reticle) aline up with the marks on the target...
Bet my balls it will be 22x on your scope...

If im wrong you can collect my balls from the Kitchen wall...thats were my Mrs keeps em;)

Cass

dwighet wrote: »

Tac im pretty sure your nightforce reticle will be true 2moa hash marks on your verticle at 22x zoom.............

Your best way to find out is to get in touch with nightforce........................................................Bet my balls it will be 22x on your scope...

Ahem ................................

ezridax wrote:

For Nightforces they put it there on the magnification dial. Its the "R". Once the scope is set on this mag then the ranging settings of your reticle will work as they are intended to. For other models with no "R" the settings are as follows.

1-4 power @ 4 power
2.5 - 10 power @ 10 power
3.5 - 15 power @ 15 power
5.5 -22 power @ 22 power. <

---

** Tackleberywho**

The 8-32 and 12-42 power scopes have the "R" marked on the magnification dial and should lie roughly half way (or a little more) in the settings. (22 power if i'm not mistaken)

dwighet

ezridax wrote: »

Ahem ................................

She gets to keep em for a while...

Your on the ball EZ

Cass

clivej

dwighet wrote: »

Tac im pretty sure your nightforce reticle will be true 2moa hash marks on your ...........

If im wrong you can collect my balls from the Kitchen wall...thats were my Mrs keeps em;)

Is that what they are I thought they were.......

dwighet

clivej wrote: »

Is that what they are I thought they were.......

Clive my old friend....
Give your self an uppercut will ya

andyone

dwighet wrote: »

Well done mate....
Great grouping.
Its good to hear another cz succes story...

500 yards next hey?
Go On, You know you want ta..;)

500yds eh????? you know i want to........ count me in.....:):)

Tackleberrywho

ezridax wrote: »

Apologies in advance for the novel lads. Got carried away.:D



Just to recap.

Your zero at 100yds = 0 MOA.
Your zero at 200yds = 2 MOA (8 Clicks)
Your zero at 300yds = 11 MOA (44 clicks).

The above are taken from your post and based on the scope having a 1/4 click value @ 100yds then the above stands true. As Rovi said its 1/4" at 100yds, 1/2" at 200yds, 3/4" at 300yds and so on up to 1000yds. Thats click value now not MOA which simply is 4 times the click value. So at 100yds 1 MOA (4 clicks) is an inch. So on up to 1000yds.

If you moved up 2 MOA (8 clicks) from 100 to 200 yds and then 11 MOA (44 clicks) from 100 to 300 the the increase is obviously 9 MOA (36 clicks) from 200 to 300. If you did not move 9 MOA (36 clicks) i would not be too concerned as the click value may not give exact/true representation of the distnace the bullet actually moves. However if the difference is 15 clicks as opposed to 44 then there is either 2 possibilities. The count you made of your adjustments was wrong, or the bullet is moving very, very fast and dropping very little between 200 and 300 yds. Either way no harm to re-shoot and confirm adjustments.

The difference is while the scope moves in preset values at set distances the bullet due to its arced flight and wind drift will not move the exact amount the clicks represent at those preset distances. So if you are shooting at 500yds. You are 7.5 inches low. According to the scope you should move up 6 clicks. You do so, but realise you are still 1" low. This is because the bullet due to conditional elements and its very nature will not follow that rule. The scope values are indicators. Rather than wildly guessing and clicking up/down/left/right with no way of knowing how far you are moving the scope has these values so you can remember how much adjustment you made for a specific bullet.

The easiest way to describe it is. Sit down at 100yds. Take a 55gr bullet with a MV of 3300fps. Get your zero. Now fire a 40gr bullet with less MV. See the difference in POI. Do the same at 200, 300, etc. You will find one bullet will follow the click value of the scope quite closely, but "loosen" as the distance increases. While another bullet may not follow the click value as closely and require more or less adjustment than the distance indicates.

Okay i've just lost myself and got "blinkered" vision from typing. I hope i'm describing this okay otherwise it will read as pure nonsense.



The setting for using the Ranging settings on your scope should be in your instruction/info manual. For Nightforces they put it there on the magnification dial. Its the "R". Once the scope is set on this mag then the ranging settings of your reticle will work as they are intended to. For other models with no "R" the settings are as follows.

1-4 power @ 4 power
2.5 - 10 power @ 10 power
3.5 - 15 power @ 15 power
5.5 -22 power @ 22 power.

The 8-32 and 12-42 power scopes have the "R" marked on the magnification dial and should lie roughly half way (or a little more) in the settings. (22 power if i'm not mistaken)

A word of advise. Always record your adjustments. Whether they are permanent adjustments for your zeros or even slight adjustments for wind, rain, etc. Too many have been caught out with adjusting their scopes, forgetting/confusing the adjustments and then not resetting the scope correctly. Leading to misses the next time you fire. Do not be embarrassed about having a bit of paper with these numbers with you all the time. Can turn out to be a life saver.

Also no harm is when you have your main zero. ie. 100yds (or whatever it is you use) record the adjustments of the scope. Then re-zero your turret (if possible). Then dial the turret all the way down, while counting the clicks/MOA till it "bottoms out" as in there are no more downward clicks/MOA left. Should you get confused about where exactly your settings for your 100 yd zero are and you cannot remember simply "bottom out" the elevation turret and count up the clicks/MOA that you recorded earlier for your 100 yd zero.

sorry for delay in reply chaps.

I zero scope on 11 on 5.5-22x56 as there is not an "R" but there is a dot and I zero @22 on the 8-32x56 as they are the Points demarked by NF.

I always rezero the turrets so I know if someone has moved them (fcukairs have tried it before )

Starting 25 yard zero's over the bast few weeks, Was "helping" Zero a NF scope today.

I have to say I love NF as they are fairly fool proof for clicks etc