New .308 Barrel opinions and suggestions.

Cass

Well lads,

Looking for opinons and suggestions on a new barrel i am thinking of having done.

I am looking at a 32" barrel, but have been completely confused/baffled/bewildered (whatever you want to call it) with all the math of selecting a twist rate. Currently i have a 30" barrel with 1:12 twist rate. I was using opinions from other shooters and even went so far as to use the Greenhill Formula to see the best/optimal twist rate for the bullet type i'm using. I am currently using 175 gr Sierra Matchking (HPS). I also use 190 gr (HPS). With the higher grainage a lower twist rate would work best. The Greenhills formula showed a 1:11 twist to be best and even that 1" can make a difference, however i'm leaning more towards a 1:10 twist to allow for up to 200 gr (if i go that route).

Was curious as to others opinions or even better, experiences with barrel choices, twist rates, bullet choices (grainage) etc.

Tackleberrywho

ezridax wrote: »

Well lads,

Looking for opinons and suggestions on a new barrel i am thinking of having done.

I am looking at a 32" barrel, but have been completely confused/baffled/bewildered (whatever you want to call it) with all the math of selecting a twist rate. Currently i have a 30" barrel with 1:12 twist rate. I was using opinions from other shooters and even went so far as to use the Greenhill Formula to see the best/optimal twist rate for the bullet type i'm using. I am currently using 175 gr Sierra Matchking (HPS). I also use 190 gr (HPS). With the higher grainage a lower twist rate would work best. The Greenhills formula showed a 1:11 twist to be best and even that 1" can make a difference, however i'm leaning more towards a 1:10 twist to allow for up to 200 gr (if i go that route).

Was curious as to others opinions or even better, experiences with barrel choices, twist rates, bullet choices (grainage) etc.

God bless us and save us! It's a hard one.
You may educate tehrest of us on Grenhills formula, I thought that was in Tallagh

Would you think 200 grain in FTR I am presuming is required?

I thought that all the lads favoured 155grain HPS stuff?

It's all new to me.

Are you going Kreiger or Truflite?
The boys in Truflite advised me 1/10 for my .223.

I e-mailed them and told them teh grainage I was using and the range I wanted and I went with what they said.

Remmy

For a 1:10 twist, 168-175's seem to be where its at.Its possible that heavier again could be even better but I have no experience of that.

Do you find 175grainers more consistant than 155's?I would have thought with a 1:12 twist with a long tube it would favour the lighter faster rounds.

It wasn't me!

Worth bearing in mind that you get away with a slower twist rate if you drive a given bullet faster, so the move from 30" to 32" may well do away with the requirement to use a faster twist in the first place. Also, I'm not a fan, personally, of the idea of heavy bullets in a .308. That's where bigger .30 calibres come into their own, but that's a personal thing. In your position, I'd probably use 175gr rounds (as we talked about before) and drive them hard, which will be easy with a 32" tube. Since you want the slowest twist which will stabilise the bullet to avoid damaging the bullet or the jacket and for best barrel life, it might be worth revisiting whether a change of twist rate is desirable. I'd say with the extra velocity from the tube, I'd stick with 1:12" for 175gr pills, since, as I say, I'm not crazy about the heavier bullets in that cartridge (though you'd probably get away with the 190gr bullets anyway with that twist and tube length). That's just my own two cents anyway.

Cass

Tackleberrywho wrote: »

You may educate tehrest of us on Grenhills formula, I thought that was in Tallagh

Its a decades old formula for working out the best twist ratio of the barrel you want. Is still used today. It goes along the lines of;

T= 150(d*d/r)

T= Twist rate.
150 = Constant for muzzle velocity of 2800 and less (its 180 for 2800 and above).
d*d = Diameter of bullet squared (ie. .308 x .308)
r = Length of bullet in inches. (Thats the actual projectile not including the case).

So for a 175 gr bullet you would have;

T = 150(.308 x .308/1.257) ---> T = 150(0.101024/1.257) ---> T= 150(0.08036913) ---> T = 12.0553699.

So a 175gr bullet with a muzzle velocity of approx. 2700fps would ideally be suited in a 1:12 barrel. So basically what i have with what i'm using. (I kow, i know, if its not broke and all that).

Would you think 200 grain in FTR (I am presuming) is required?

Not necessarily. I have found with the larger rounds that wind drift is reduced, sometimes quite noticeably. So i was considering another barrel specifically for the larger bullets while still keeping the original 1:12. I was just curious as to peoples opinions on a 1:11 or 1:10 as opposed to a 1:12. Is the difference that significant?

I thought that all the lads favoured 155grain HPS stuff?

Most do. I used them for some time with good results. Its all about experimenting.

It's all new to me

Me too.

Are you going Kreiger or Truflite?.

Truflite.

Remmy wrote:

Do you find 175grainers more consistant than 155's?I would have thought with a 1:12 twist with a long tube it would favour the lighter faster rounds.

The 155s are by all means a great bullet. I like the idea though of having options to try out the heavier loads. Surely one barrel with one twist cannot perform the same with all different loads. Yes they will all hit the target, but in competition its the consistancy and repeatablility that you would be looking for. Plus anything that gives me an edge over the other lad is always nice.

It wasn't me wrote:

............the move from 30" to 32" may well do away with the requirement to use a faster twist in the first place

The most i would reckon you would get with the 32" over the 30" is an extra 80 - 100fps at most. So with the 175 and 190s you may achieve 2800fps muzzle velocity. Still shy of the approx. 2900/2950 of the 155s. I know speed is not the be all, there are numerous factors, and i understand what you are saying and you are probably right.

Really its a technical excercise. Don't get me wrong its not like i have money burning a hole in my pocket, quite the opposite hence the reason i'm trying to get as much info (relevant) on board before making a decision. I know the gunsmith will be better suited to answer questions, but i'd really like to have an idea of what i want before speaking to him rather than just walking in and saying "here is X euro, get me a good barrel".

Keep any ideas coming lads. No reasonable opinion refused.

Tackleberrywho

http://kwk.us/twist.html

Food for thought!

Tackleberrywho

http://www.z-hat.com/twistrate.htm

Yer man from Tallagh is quite famous it seems

What is the optimium length of barrel, and does the grain weight increase or decrease barrel length as weight increases or decreases?

I know, More questions than answers:D:D

dCorbus

ez, i hope you're not thinking of changing the barrel on the one i think you're thinking of changing the barrel on?:D:rolleyes:

:eek:

Tackleberrywho

dCorbus wrote: »

ez, i hope you're not thinking of changing the barrel on the one i think you're thinking of changing the barrel on?:D:rolleyes:

:eek:

He is!:D:D

So dC, what are your thoughts on .308 twists?
I'm currently 1/12 in a 20 " barrel.
However it is a stalking rifle.

dCorbus

I have no thoughts on twists or barrel lengths TBH.
Not at this game long enough to know one way or the other.
Have been doing some research myself - but the jury is out!

So my own thoughts and opinions on this would be of zero use to the man himself - I'll just pick his brains once he's done all the groundwork, won't i, ez?! :rolleyes::rolleyes::D

Cass

dCorbus wrote: »

ez, i hope you're not thinking of changing the barrel on the one i think you're thinking of changing the barrel on

Yes,............. yes i am. And to finance it i'm going to sell the benchrest .22lr. Madness from every angle.

..... I'll just pick his brains once he's done all the groundwork, won't i, ez?! :rolleyes::rolleyes::D

No worries. No need to wait either my suggestion would be a 20" barrel with a 1:18 twist and a 60 gr bullet. Anyone else i shoot against looking for help?:D

Tackleberrywho

dCorbus wrote: »

I have no thoughts on twists or barrel lengths TBH.
Not at this game long enough to know one way or the other.
Have been doing some research myself - but the jury is out!

So my own thoughts and opinions on this would be of zero use to the man himself - I'll just pick his brains once he's done all the groundwork, won't i, ez?! :rolleyes::rolleyes::D

Well I have noticed that my rifle is a tactical version with 1/12.
The same rifle come in .223 1/9

Reminton make a 26" .308 same barrel just longer and they use 11 1/4

So I am guessing length of barrel has to be a factor in the twist rate choice.

If he was to use heavier loads the rule of tumb should be "if I am understanding it correctly" is that he needs a faster twist to stabilize the round.

Although the more I read, the more confused I get :D

dCorbus

No need to wait either my suggestion would be a 20" barrel with a 1:18 twist and a 60 gr bullet

I was thinking, from what you were telling me before, that I should be using Bulgarian Army Surplus 7.62mm 102gr Bullets and get my barrel changed for a 16'' Light Hunting Profile with a 1:20twist - Or are you now telling me that advice you gave me was wrong?

Oh, you can't trust nobody these days!:p

And we all know my rifle's so sh1t it really wouldn't be up to the job at all:rolleyes::D

Yes,............. yes i am. And to finance it i'm going to sell the benchrest .22lr. Madness from every angle

F'in madness!
Seriously - I'd very much doubt you need to go down that route at all with the set up you have already. I don't think you'll squeeze much more out of her and you'll be wasting your cash - and getting rid of your other baby to do so! That's just my opinion and as I've said (and as you well know), I'm far far far from in any expert on this - but my gut feeling is you'll not get the "return on your investment" - but, if other more wiser souls are pointing you in that direction, fire ahead and don't listen to me at all:)

Cass

dCorbus wrote: »

I was thinking, from what you were telling me before, that I should be using Bulgarian Army Surplus 7.62mm 102gr Bullets and get my barrel changed for a 16'' Light Hunting Profile with a 1:20twist - Or are you now telling me that advice you gave me was wrong?

Try both:D

Oh, you can't trust nobody these days!:p

Would i lie to you for my own end.

And we all know my rifle's so sh1t it really wouldn't be up to the job at all:rolleyes::D

Yeah, who needs a 73. :cool:

dCorbus

But seriously, she'll not shoot out passed the 600yd, seriously. A dreadful piece of crap - Shouldn't have listened to you back then either.:p

Cass

Just keep going as you are. That'll silence 'em better than any comments.

dCorbus

I'm still not sure you'd get the benefit out of a barrel change. You already have (whatisapparently) a 30'' krieger barrel - can't see how an extra 2'' will make that much difference (no smart comments please).

Cass

I have other options in mind such as new stock, bedding. Basically a semi suctom rifle based on an existing Savage action with the ability to revert back to the original rifle when it suits.

Confused?

Me too.

It makes in my mind somehow.

It wasn't me!

If you could get 2750fps with a 175gr SMK (HPS load will probably make that) you've a very competitive bullet there. If you go up to 190gr pills, the sheer limitations of the .308 Win case mean you'll be pushed to achieve useful velocities; that's why I'd stick with the 175gr. Since you'll be able to push it a wee bit faster with a 32" pipe, you'll get even less wind drift, and can even get away with a slower twist rate due to the extra velocity*. Personally, I think you need to settle on a bullet to use for the life of this barrel before you think of barrel specs. Let's say for the minute you decide to go with the 175 SMK (readily available, so a good choice) pushed at say 2800fps (a good velocity, but not unreasonable from a 32" tube). Since the 1:12" is stabilising them at slightly lower velocities, it will continue to stabilise them at the slightly increased one. Now, if you're prepared to go for maximum accuracy with the 175 at the expense of accuracy with other bullets, you could calculate a more appropriate twist rate (might end up being around 12.5" to 12.75" - pure guesstimation there) and as a result, anything heavier will be very marginal for stability, but if you stick with the 1:12", you'd get better results than you're currently getting with 190gr, although obviously I don't think it's the bullet weight for the .308 Win. However, the slower twist rate will prove better again with lighter bullets if you wanted to try the 155gr SMKs. A classic TR or Palma barrel would be a 30" 1:13" to 1:13.5" for shooting 155gr bullets, though for factory loads, 1:13" is ideal as handloads will typically be faster, explaining the popularity of the slightly slower twist. Essentially, I reckon you need to settle on a bullet, predict a velocity to expect, then revisit the Greenhills formula to get a twist rate, then decide whether to compromise accuracy with your chosen bullet (might be inconsequential) or versatility (might turn out to be a picky barrel anyway). So, fun game, eh?

Tack: Barrel length is only a function in determining an appropriate twist rate insofar as it helps determine velocity. Since its effect on velocity is not linear, it is not a useful metric. Consequently, the effect of velocity on barrel twist rates is a much more useful way of deciding. It also explains the different typical twist rates associated with factory rifles in different cartridges of the same calibre, as elaborated below.



*The quintessential example is the fast .22 centrefires. While a .223 might come with a 1:12" twist for shooting light bullets, a .22-250 or a .220 Swift designed to shoot the same bullets will come with a 1:14" twist.

Tackleberrywho

Tack: Barrel length is only a function in determining an appropriate twist rate insofar as it helps determine velocity. Since its effect on velocity is not linear, it is not a useful metric. Consequently, the effect of velocity on barrel twist rates is a much more useful way of deciding. It also explains the different typical twist rates associated with factory rifles in different cartridges of the same calibre, as elaborated below.



*The quintessential example is the fast .22 centrefires. While a .223 might come with a 1:12" twist for shooting light bullets, a .22-250 or a .220 Swift designed to shoot the same bullets will come with a 1:14" twist.[/QUOTE]

My query was in regards to 2 remingtons in same calibre with different twist rates, my cuz had a VTR and I had a VSSF II and although my groups were tighter they were similar.

He barrel twist was 1/9 and I had 1/12
We were both firing 55grain rounds.
His barrel was 20" and mine 26"

That is where I was coming to the fact that the extra 6"'s had the increased speed on the round. as a result the twist was slower.

The 20" had a faster twist but a shorter barrel.

So in essence the twist rate is proportional to the length of barrel and weight of projectile.

In Ezridaxs case a heavier round in a longer barrel with the same twist may stabilize more as the speed is increased ~200 f/s.However if he went with the sme length barrel in a slightly faster twist rate 1/11 1/4 he possibley could achieve the same qualities without having a crow bar, and if a faster twist was applied in conjunction with the extra 2" it may be a Tack driver to boot.

The question is what is the optimium length for a given projectile to stabilize where exceding said length will decrease speed of MV.

It wasn't me!

Tackleberrywho wrote: »

So in essence the twist rate is proportional to the length of barrel and weight of projectile.

In Ezridaxs case a heavier round in a longer barrel with the same twist may stabilize more as the speed is increased ~200 f/s.However if he went with the sme length barrel in a slightly faster twist rate 1/11 1/4 he possibley could achieve the same qualities without having a crow bar, and if a faster twist was applied in conjunction with the extra 2" it may be a Tack driver to boot.

The question is what is the optimium length for a given projectile to stabilize where exceding said length will decrease speed of MV.

You've more or less got it. The caveat is that the best accuracy is to be achieved by the slowest twist possible to get the job done. your cousin's 20" 1:9 was an imperfect choice for those 55gr bullets, as the increased stability and the decreased velocity were obviously not matched. While your single example is obviously not a useful sample from which to draw conclusions, it does serve to illustrate the theory. However, as I say, since the best accuracy is to be achieved by spinning the bullet as slowly as possible while still stabilising it (and again, examples like clivej's 1:9 that shoots 40gr bullets beautifully aren't useful samples - the theory works) the only reason to go with a faster twist is to shoot heavier bullets, to the detriment of lighter bullets. Since the 1:12" is working for his 175 SMKs, and will continue to do so, and since he could even slow that down a little, there's no reason to go for a faster twist unless he wants to shoot 190gr rounds exclusively, or similar weight, which I still think is a bad idea from a .308, as it just doesn't have the case capacity to shoot them fast enough to make use of the extra weight. It's not about the effect of twist rate on muzzle velocity, as that would be taking the questions in the wrong order.

1. Select a projectile.
2. Select a velocity at which to drive this projectile.
3. Using this information, calculate the barrel twist required to stabilise the projectile.
4. Decide whether to compromise on accuracy with primary projectile or versatility (inevitable)
5. Put money where mouth is, shoot rifle.

Tackleberrywho

It wasn't me! wrote: »

You've more or less got it. The caveat is that the best accuracy is to be achieved by the slowest twist possible to get the job done. your cousin's 20" 1:9 was an imperfect choice for those 55gr bullets, as the increased stability and the decreased velocity were obviously not matched. While your single example is obviously not a useful sample from which to draw conclusions, it does serve to illustrate the theory. However, as I say, since the best accuracy is to be achieved by spinning the bullet as slowly as possible while still stabilising it (and again, examples like clivej's 1:9 that shoots 40gr bullets beautifully aren't useful samples - the theory works) the only reason to go with a faster twist is to shoot heavier bullets, to the detriment of lighter bullets. Since the 1:12" is working for his 175 SMKs, and will continue to do so, and since he could even slow that down a little, there's no reason to go for a faster twist unless he wants to shoot 190gr rounds exclusively, or similar weight, which I still think is a bad idea from a .308, as it just doesn't have the case capacity to shoot them fast enough to make use of the extra weight. It's not about the effect of twist rate on muzzle velocity, as that would be taking the questions in the wrong order.

1. Select a projectile.
2. Select a velocity at which to drive this projectile.
3. Using this information, calculate the barrel twist required to stabilise the projectile.
4. Decide whether to compromise on accuracy with primary projectile or versatility (inevitable)
5. Put money where mouth is, shoot rifle.

Personally for my .223 I chose a twist rate that was middle ground, 1/10 will handle 55 and 68 grains and some 70 grain factory stuff as per Trueflite.

The 1/9 was recommended for the heavier 70+ grain loads in the 28" barrel.

I'm not going down the.308 rebarrel route yet, but I would consider it in time.

Or perhaps a different calibre.
It will be my third rifle and I have spend a fortune already so I will have to wait, maybe next summers project

All the guys seem to be going 7/.270 that I know, a few are going 6xc for targets.

The .308 has appeal but I might go the 7mm-08 as from what I have heard from a bloke that has one, they are a dream to shoot.

Back on topic

I've ordered some 125grain Nosler tipped RWS for my .308. So It will be interesting how they fly in a 20" 1/12 barrel.

I've never used RWS before so it will be thoroughly enjoyable experiment

Cass

Right lads i have the set up ready to start and all systems are a go.

Its a TruFlite 32" heavy profile barrel with a 1:10 twist. The action from the FTR will be kept and blued. The rifle will be crowned(recrowned) and pillar bedded. Then the entire set up will be dropped into a stock from Gunstocksireland.com. Was talking to Enda Walsh and the stocks he does are perfect, plus i was able to give him the ideas i wanted for a perfect fit and he can incorporate all them into the stock. Also its homegrown and i'm always happy to support local trade whenever i can.

I want to thank all of ye for your opinons, ideas and suggestions. Will give an update progress later on and post a few pics of the finished product. Here is what she looks like now.



Watch this space.:D

Tackleberrywho

ezridax wrote: »

Right lads i have the set up ready to start and all systems are a go.

Its a TruFlite 32" heavy profile barrel with a 1:10 twist. The action from the FTR will be kept and blued. The rifle will be crowned(recrowned) and pillar bedded. Then the entire set up will be dropped into a stock from Gunstocksireland.com. Was talking to Enda Walsh and the stocks he does are perfect, plus i was able to give him the ideas i wanted for a perfect fit and he can incorporate all them into the stock. Also its homegrown and i'm always happy to support local trade whenever i can.

I want to thank all of ye for your opinons, ideas and suggestions. Will give an update progress later on and post a few pics of the finished product. Here is what she looks like now.



Watch this space.:D

Look forward to it!

T.H.308

I have seen enda's stocks and he does lovely work, im looking forward to seeing it on the firing line should be a sweet looking rifle man;)

Tackleberrywho

T.H.308 wrote: »

I have seen enda's stocks and he does lovely work, im looking forward to seeing it on the firing line should be a sweet looking rifle man;)

+1

Cass

Got the rifle back this evening and i must say i could not be happier with the results both of the barrel and stock. The work done by Fergal White and Enda Walsh not only met, but exceeded my expectations.

I have not had time to mount the scope, but a few busy days ahead getting her broken in and zeroed. Will post a few pics later of the fully fitted kit, but for now here is a few of the new barrel and stock.

shanmoll308

The reason there has been no reply to the pictures you have posted bud..is because we are all speechless.. she is beautiful EZ.
See it..I mean you Sunday.

Shanmoll308.

Cass

Cheers bud.

Looking forward to Sunday to give her a good testing. See you then.

tomcat220t

The stock looks really amazing .Words wouldnt do it justice .....Rifle for life;)Best of luck with it .

ormondprop

i hope it shoots as good as it looks, best of luck with it

zulu_dawn

Congrats,

a real work of art, beautiful
and i am sure in your well capable hands - it will be sweet.

congrats again

tac foley

Just beautiful.

tac

Tackleberrywho

tac foley wrote: »

Just beautiful.

tac

Them stocks made by Enda Walsh are quite reasonably priced Tac, You'll come here yet!!

Gun Stocks Ireland
Contact: Enda Walsh
Currabaha - Dungarvan - County Waterford
Ireland

E-mail: info@gunstocksireland.com
Mobile: +353 (0) 87 - 661 - 1993

Cass

Tackleberrywho wrote: »

Them stocks made by Enda Walsh are quite reasonably priced Tac,

For the work that goes into them yes they are. Plus unlike stocks that are imported this one is done as you want not what is done as standard. I wanted the forend and rear stock perfectly level for benchrest shooting. The palm grip suits my hand perfectly as a cast was taken to ensure perfect fit. The right lenght of pull was measured. Enough room to remove the bolt without having to keep removing the cheek riser.

Each individual piece was given the upmost of attention and ideally suited to my shooting position and needs.


The man is gifted. The stock is exactly what i asked for and then some. Metal is a bit more forgiving so one mistake with the timber stock and its a complete new start. You'd want the patience of a saint.

tac foley

Tackleberrywho wrote: »

Them stocks made by Enda Walsh are quite reasonably priced Tac, You'll come here yet!!

Gun Stocks Ireland
Contact: Enda Walsh
Currabaha - Dungarvan - County Waterford
Ireland

E-mail: info@gunstocksireland.com
Mobile: +353 (0) 87 - 661 - 1993

I'm certain that you're right. Sadly, I have already exceeded the county limit of sixteen firearms here in UK by two, and cannot have any more unless I sell three first - something I'm not prepared to do. I told the FEO that if I'd wanted three less, I would have had three less in the first place.

He didn't understand.

BUT, you can be sure that if I'm ever in need of a fine-lookin' and fine-shootin' new bundook, it's to Ireland that I'll be looking for it.

Best

tac

virminhunter

she's a beaut Ez, well wear...:)

patsat

ezridax wrote: »

Sweet looking rig Erzi hope it is a dream to shoot for you!

Now don't laugh.....What trigger is that and what does it do?!(bar the obvious)

It wasn't me!

patsat wrote: »

Sweet looking rig Erzi hope it is a dream to shoot for you!

Now don't laugh.....What trigger is that and what does it do?!(bar the obvious)

It's a Savage Accutrigger. Comes as standard on all Savage rifles. Very nice trigger. One of the best on a factory gun.

patsat

It wasn't me! wrote: »

It's a Savage Accutrigger. Comes as standard on all Savage rifles. Very nice trigger. One of the best on a factory gun.

I see! And whats the meaning of the red plastic bit??

It wasn't me!

patsat wrote: »

I see! And whats the meaning of the red plastic bit??

It's a safety. Same system (broadly speaking) can be found on Glock pistols. The blade has to be depressed before the trigger can operate. If the trigger is pressed without the blade being depressed first, the sear will drop but the firing pin won't fall forward and the gun won't go off. Not a perfect feature, but it's an extra margin of error, which doesn't hurt. Triggers are lovely and crisp though, really nice.

patsat

Thanks I can sleep easy now knowing I learnt something today!:D

Cass

Cheers IWM.

The Savage rifles comes with many safety features including the trigger system as so well descibed above. Also if the bolt is closed too hard the same safety feature in the trigger engages and the firing pin is prohibited from striking the bullet.

Some do not like the trigger and change it either soon after buying the rifle or as soon as they buy it. Personally i like the trigger. As IWM said it is crisp and clean. I use the blade not only to disengage the safety, but as a measure of creep as the trigger has little or non. As soon as my finger pulls the blade back enough to touch the trigger i know the next small amount of pressure will fire the rifle. With this i know when the shot is coming and helps with my hold, follow through and eliminates any flinch i might have had.


Had the rifle out today for the first time. Performed very well. The score was not indicative of the ability of the rifle, but i quite literally have to "re-learn" the rifle all over again. My hold is now different (more comfortable), but not what i've been used to for the last 10 months. I still find myself moving forward or backward to raise the POI however as the new stock now has level forend and rear stock (sand bag rider) i do not get this. So another small thing to "re-learn".

I'll get there though and its a great excuse for some extra trigger time.

Tackleberrywho

patsat wrote: »

Thanks I can sleep easy now knowing I learnt something today!:D

If you don't squeeze the trigger perfectly correctly on his rig all you hear is click, and it decocks the rifle.

The Glock is a far simpler affair.
I've not fired a savage FTR but I witnessed what happened when the trigger was not pressed 100% correctly. Just a click and no boom.

Ezri seems to love his, however I would imagine they would not suit any hunter class rifles.

A precision piece of kit none the less, does exactly what it says on the Tin.;)
Perfect for FTR

It wasn't me!

ezridax wrote: »

Cheers IWM.

The Savage rifles comes with many safety features including the trigger system as so well descibed above. Also if the bolt is closed too hard the same safety feature in the trigger engages and the firing pin is prohibited from striking the bullet.

Some do not like the trigger and change it either soon after buying the rifle or as soon as they buy it. Personally i like the trigger. As IWM said it is crisp and clean. I use the blade not only to disengage the safety, but as a measure of creep as the trigger has little or non. As soon as my finger pulls the blade back enough to touch the trigger i know the next small amount of pressure will fire the rifle. With this i know when the shot is coming and helps with my hold, follow through and eliminates any flinch i might have had.


Had the rifle out today for the first time. Performed very well. The score was not indicative of the ability of the rifle, but i quite literally have to "re-learn" the rifle all over again. My hold is now different (more comfortable), but not what i've been used to for the last 10 months. I still find myself moving forward or backward to raise the POI however as the new stock now has level forend and rear stock (sand bag rider) i do not get this. So another small thing to "re-learn".

I'll get there though and its a great excuse for some extra trigger time.

Any time I've shot it I've treated it as a two-stage trigger with no weight in the first stage. Makes the most sense to me, given my background. Great rifles. Would love to play with one long-term at some point.

Tackleberrywho

ezridax wrote: »

Cheers IWM.

The Savage rifles comes with many safety features including the trigger system as so well descibed above. Also if the bolt is closed too hard the same safety feature in the trigger engages and the firing pin is prohibited from striking the bullet.

Had the rifle out today for the first time. Performed very well. The score was not indicative of the ability of the rifle, but i quite literally have to "re-learn" the rifle all over again. My hold is now different (more comfortable), but not what i've been used to for the last 10 months. I still find myself moving forward or backward to raise the POI however as the new stock now has level forend and rear stock (sand bag rider) i do not get this. So another small thing to "re-learn".

I'll get there though and its a great excuse for some extra trigger time.

Just seen your post!
You "obviously" explained it better!
Much different than my Glock safety