Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

Andrew76

o1s1n wrote: »

Seems my bad luck is starting to turn around, remember the supergun I bought which had all the issues? Well the seller built another one which had exactly every problem I did. So was able to fix it and as a result, diagnose all my ones problems.

He's offered to fix my one and pay for all of the postage costs. What a sound chap.

Now, to complete the holy trinity, all I need is for Mitch to ring later and say my candy is fixed and he's dropping it out this weekend....:pac:

If that happens then you need to get yourself to the nearest Euro lotto shop asap!

Myrddin

Dale Parish

o1s1n wrote: »

Now, to complete the holy trinity, all I need is for Mitch to ring later and say my candy is fixed and he's dropping it out this weekend....:pac:

What kind of repairs does he do?
I was about to post a PCB off to England to get fixed (I have no idea what-so-ever is wrong with it) but it would be a lot easier to just post it out to him...

Myrddin

o1s1n wrote: »

Seems my bad luck is starting to turn around, remember the supergun I bought which had all the issues? Well the seller built another one which had exactly every problem I did. So was able to fix it and as a result, diagnose all my ones problems.

He's offered to fix my one and pay for all of the postage costs. What a sound chap.

It must be a bit more involved than his last idea, if he's doing it himself this time. At least he's looking after you & covering costs, fair dues

Steve X2

o1s1n wrote: »

Ouch! Leg up, loads of ice packs and daytime TV should sort that out

(The daytime TV is the most important bit)



Thanks again! Just sent you a pm there.

Seems my bad luck is starting to turn around, remember the supergun I bought which had all the issues? Well the seller built another one which had exactly every problem I did. So was able to fix it and as a result, diagnose all my ones problems.

He's offered to fix my one and pay for all of the postage costs. What a sound chap.

Now, to complete the holy trinity, all I need is for Mitch to ring later and say my candy is fixed and he's dropping it out this weekend....:pac:

No probs, hope it works ok for you.

Unfortunately no daytime tv for me today. Bucket of painkillers and back into work

.

Jack burton

Take some anti-inflammatory medication and bring the swelling down

Myrddin

Steve SI wrote: »

Bucket of painkillers and back into work

.

If they're codeine based shure you'll have a grand aul day

Steve X2

Jack burton wrote: »

Take some anti-inflammatory medication and bring the swelling down

Yeah, I've a selection of meds they gave me in the hospital.
They said to take at least a week off work but unfortunately its not an option at the moment.
Plus, who'd collect my retro goodies from the work post room

.

o1s1n

Dale Parish wrote: »

What kind of repairs does he do?
I was about to post a PCB off to England to get fixed (I have no idea what-so-ever is wrong with it) but it would be a lot easier to just post it out to him...

This guy is based in Switzerland (I thought he was from France originally) so I'd say the UK would be easier for yourself!

o1s1n

EnterNow wrote: »

It must be a bit more involved than his last idea, if he's doing it himself this time. At least he's looking after you & covering costs, fair dues

He even went out and bought a CPS 2 mobo and some SF2 board to test it out. By far the nicest seller I've ever dealt with online.

Gave me a breakdown of how he fixed the other one with the same issues -
-

Here are the solutions I have isolated.

1) Getting the sound for CPS2

*Pin 10 from Jamma connector (which goes to pin 2 of the scart connector) needs to be disconnected
*Pin L from Jamma connector goes on pin 6 of the Scart
*Pin 4 from Scart is connected to ground

This way, you have sound on CPS2, but not on MVS/IGS. So my solution was to put a switch on PIN 10 of the Jamma connector: ON, you got sound on MVS, OFF you got sound on CPS2 (and probably on the other PCB where you have no sound)

2) Getting rid of f**king scrolling interferences

*The GND from the Jamma connector needs to be connected to the GND pin on the 3-prong AC line connector for the PSU.

This suppresses COMPLETELY the interferences. I did not connect it so far, because I was sure that the GND from the power supply was connected to this 3-prong AC line GND, but I was obviously wrong.

Doge

EnterNow wrote: »

refund tbh.

Doge

CathalDublin wrote: »

Maplin keep it in stock

http://www.pown.it/5041

Repost tbh.

Dale Parish

o1s1n wrote: »

This guy is based in Switzerland (I thought he was from France originally) so I'd say the UK would be easier for yourself!

Mitch I meant :pac::pac:

The Last Bandit

Modded my PAL SNES (SNS-CPU-02), added usual 50/60Hz & lockout switch..

However, its stuck on 60Hz. Done all the usual checks for shorts/opens but everything seems fine. Correct voltage is presented to the PPU's (P24 on PPU1 and P30 on PPU2) when the switch is thrown but still running at 60Hz.

Now, completely removed both mods and I can see the 5v and both PPU pins but still its running at 60Hz.

So a bit baffled with this really, anyone got any further clues ?

Have a 1CHIP PAL model as well so its not the end of the world but do have a few carts that will refuse to start up at 60Hz.

jonestown

Hey guys, I don't know if you've covered this in the thread yet but here's my own problem.

I recently bought a SNES cheap off a guy who told me that it had stopped working. He told me it powered up but it had no picture. Naturally I thought that the games just needed a cleaning so I took it off his hands. My own games are fairly clean so I tried one of mine and much to my initial delight it started to work first time but gradually the picture faded. I tried this with other games and
I had the same problem.

Have any of you come across this exact problem and if so what do you recommend?

o1s1n

Sounds like you're using the wrong kind of scart cable.

There are two different types - one for PAL consoles and one for NTSC consoles. If you use the wrong one with the wrong console you can get the problem you're talking about.

jonestown

Oh that's good news, seems like a common enough mismatch. I'll try it again, thanks Oisín.

Dale Parish

I took off the coin door yesterday (off the alien 3 machine) to sand down and respray as it was pretty rusty. I replaced the light bulb behind the coin slot since it was blown. Put everything back on this morning and powered it on. Black screen and no sound. The the LED on the PSU at the back flashes for a split second when powered on. The Jamma board gets voltages of 0.65,0.65,0,0.24 on pins 3,4,5,6. The 5+ on the PSU outputs 0.65v.

Anyone have any idea what has gone wrong here? Hardly the PCB since it's not getting enough power anyway to have been the problem.
This is the PSU it has:

Doge

Dale Parish wrote: »

I replaced the light bulb behind the coin slot since it was blown.

Is this the only thing that was changed?

Have you tried removing it and powering it again?

If the PSU is putting out 0.65V or whatever on the 5v, without anything connected to it, it sounds bad though, and is if it's blown somehow.

Dale Parish

waveform wrote: »

Is this the only thing that was changed?

Have you tried removing it and powering it again?

If the PSU is putting out 0.65V or whatever on the 5v, without anything connected to it, it sounds bad though, and is if it's blown somehow.

Apart from the paint on the door, yeah! That's all that has been changed.
The fuses seem OK too. I didn't remove the PSU, but I did check all the wires and they're fine. I tested the voltages on both the PCB and PSU, therefore the PSU is outputting power, if only a tiny amount

Doge

Dale Parish wrote: »

Apart from the paint on the door, yeah! That's all that has been changed.
The fuses seem OK too. I didn't remove the PSU, but I did check all the wires and they're fine. I tested the voltages on both the PCB and PSU, therefore the PSU is outputting power, if only a tiny amount

Try removing the bulb for the craic and see if it makes any difference.

Probably wont though if the psu itself is putting out low voltages.

Dale Parish

Yeah it doesn't! I even put back in the original, broken bulb..

Steve X2

@EnterNow
What do you think of this mod(jump to 5.30 to see it)?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hl0IG8QAnrc

It's the same screen as the Nomad mod and he shows you the technical stuff at the end of the vid.
Do you think you'd be willing to have a go at it for whenever we sort out the Nomad?

Another guy with the mod done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3e9gBYmfDb8

.

Myrddin

Steve SI wrote: »

It's the same screen as the Nomad mod and he shows you the technical stuff at the end of the vid.
Do you think you'd be willing to have a go at it for whenever we sort out the Nomad?

Yeah I think that should be fine, sure add it to your list & when your ready we'll look at it in finer detail...looks fine to me though

Steve X2

EnterNow wrote: »

Yeah I think that should be fine, sure add it to your list & when your ready we'll look at it in finer detail...looks fine to me though

Cool, The screen just looks really nice on those vids.

.

Pyongyang

Hmm, tempted to buy a GT now. Can the GT be modded? The TE is just aesthetically different right?

Here's another thought, I wonder if it's possible to make a SuperGrafx portable?

http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=4292.0

Doge

Steve SI wrote: »

@EnterNow
What do you think of this mod(jump to 5.30 to see it)?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hl0IG8QAnrc

Looking real fly essé!

safetyboy

Gamegear Capacitors, where to buy?

Myrddin

safetyboy wrote: »

Gamegear Capacitors, where to buy?

Are Rewind Bits still outta stock? Pop Tim off an email & ask him has he any coming in

SirLemonhead

Let me know what you find out re: the game gear caps..need to fix my own game gear at some point..