shot gun action.

dwighet

Ive taken my shotty apart to give the stock and for end a strip down to get rid of the poly coat on it and take out all the dings its gathered over the years...then give it a good dose of birchwood tru oil....
Now im not up to speed with shot gun actoins so im hoping some of you fowlers out there can help me out...
I have the action here in front of me and what a fine piece of engineering it is..
Ive cleaned out the bits of crud its gathered over the years(5)
Now, do I give the moving parts a drop of oil or shall I leave it be...
It still feels as good as the day I bought it....Im thinking "if it aint broke.dont fix it"

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Cheers
Dwighet

Cass

Hey dwight,

Personally (and you'll probably find others that disagree) i clean the internal workings every few months or more frequently if the usage is more.

I never oil and leave the internal parts. I usually lightly oil a cloth and wipe the moving parts making sure to cover them all but leave no excess/residue on the parts that could lead to crud building up quicker the next time. Plus i always store the shotgun barrels down for a few hours after cleaning to make sure i've removed all excess oil.

Its my own method and i've never had a bother with any shotgun i've owned. Good/proper cleaning is the life of any firearm.

dwighet

ezridax wrote: »

Hey dwight,

Personally (and you'll probably find others that disagree) i clean the internal workings every few months or more frequently if the usage is more.

I never oil and leave the internal parts. I usually lightly oil a cloth and wipe the moving parts making sure to cover them all but leave no excess/residue on the parts that could lead to crud building up quicker the next time. Plus i always store the shotgun barrels down for a few hours after cleaning to make sure i've removed all excess oil.

Its my own method and i've never had a bother with any shotgun i've owned. Good/proper cleaning is the life of any firearm.

I here ya but i have the side plates off and have access to the whole trigger/hammer mechanisn... do i oil the sear,hammer pivit points,safety mechanim ect..??????

Cass

When i mentioned moving parts that actually what i was refering to. Sorry should have been clearer.

Have a good nose around. If you see a build up of residue around the pins, hammer, etc then a lightly oiled cotton bud and time is your friend. Clean in and around as best you can (if necessary) but as shotguns are not as fussy as a rifle once they are reasonably clean and grit free i wouldn't go overboard if you think its not needed. If there is no visible sign of build up then i would leave well enough alone.

jamesomara

Dwighett,
You should contact the manufacturer to determine the lube points.

This probably isn't as mission critical as lubing a handgun. However, over lubing is just as bad, maybe worse, than not enough lube.

Some people put to much lube on sliding parts. When dirt builds up in the overlubed areas it acts like an abrasive film and causes more damage then if the area were dry.

Personally, I would clean the entire area and then spray with Rem oil or something like that and wipe off the excess.

However, it is best to ask the manufacturer.

pedroeibar1

dwighet wrote: »

I here ya but i have the side plates off and have access to the whole trigger/hammer mechanisn... do i oil the sear,hammer pivit points,safety mechanim ect..??????

Short answer is YES. Do not oversoak, use a good quality oil lightly applied and gently rub off any excess. Do not use stuff like WD40 as it is supposed to gel and then harden eventually.
Ezi's comment on barrels down storage is good,as any excess oil will run away from the stock (mineral oil destroys wood over time).
Use a soldering iron with a wet towel to raise any dings before you re-oil the stock.
I've never used Birchwood Casey, only Napier and it worked well.
Rs
P
PS hope you cocked the gun before you removed the locks..........

dwighet

PS hope you cocked the gun before you removed the locks..........[/QUOTE]

so do I.:eek: both hammers are fired...
Am I in trouble?

pedroeibar1

dwighet wrote: »

..
Am I in trouble?

You could be;)............. it depends on the gun. E.G. on some AyA models it is not possible to refit the locks unless they are cocked.

Do not force yours back, ease them in, front end first and sometimes (again depends on model) moving the toplever across is necessary. DO NOT FECK AROUND with the triggers while doing this.

Personally, I only remove the locks when the gun has been in a bog hole and drenched wetter than me. I took the locks off my father's old Greener when it was passed to me and they were fine, had never seen daylight for about 50 years.
The locks on my guns are hand-detachable. If yours are not, you should grind screwdrivers to fit, to avoid buggering the screws.
Fingers crossed
P.

jamesomara

WD40 is a penetrant, not a lubricant. If you shoot the gun with WD40, expect rust to come soon after.

WD40, I believe was made by the US Navy. They wanted a chemical that would displace water - hence the WD - Water Displacement.

It took them, no surprise, 40 tries to get the formula right, hence the 40.

I cleaned a bicycle chain once with WD40 - did a great job cleaning. I took the chain out and never lubed as I thought WD40 did that.

One week later I had to throw the chain away as the rust killed it.

If you drop your gun in the bog, use WD40 to get out the water. However, watch around the action. The WD40 will strip away lubricants. Internally, this could be devastating to your action.