bore sighting

touchyie

Hi looking for some advice, I am trying to zero in my 223 which I got second hand. the dealer told me that it was zero'd to 100yards (or so he thought) Tried it at 100 and didnt hit paper, tried it at fifty and didnt hit paper. I ruled myself out as the problem as my buddie was checking his zero and we were both spot on with his rifle.
I decided to stop wasting ammo and go back to basics. I am bore sighting it at the moment and i am wondering is distance of 25 feet (11 yards) aiming at a 2 inch target accurate enough for boresighting?
once I have this done I will take it back out and go at 25 yards, 50 yards and settle on 100 as a zero as my max distance at the moment will 150 yards. any constructive, tips comments and advice would be appreciated.

greenpeter

You mite be better off with something bigger than a 2inch target, i use a big lump of plaster board, draw some big circles on it and then fine tune it down to 2inch targets. Maybe start at 50 yards and see how it goes from there.

Cass

touchyie wrote: »

........... I am bore sighting it at the moment and i am wondering is distance of 25 feet (11 yards) aiming at a 2 inch target accurate enough for boresighting?

No. Personally i would start at 50 yds. Go back to basics. Open rings and remove scope. Check ring bases are securely fixed to rifle/rail.Place scope back into ring bases. Check for eye relief. Place the top piece of the rings back on and loosely screw down. Do not tighten yet. Once again check your eye relief. Use either sprit levels or the piece of string method to line up the crosshairs on your scope (or whatever works for you). Without moving the scope tighten down all screws. Now your scope is back on and ready to be sighted in.

Turn the clicks on the scope (elevation) down to the lowest setting. Now turn the clicks on your windage adjustment all the way left (or right). Now turn it in the other direction while keeping count of the mintes/clicks. If its (for talks sake) 50 moa turn it back 25. Now your windage is centralised. Place the rifle in a clamp and check its level. When you peer down the barrel make sure the circle made by the muzzle is central in the circle made by the breach.



Move the rifle (not your head) until the target (at least 2ft x 1.5ft with concentric circles)



can be seen . Now keep the target in view through the barrel while trying to keep both "circles" central. Once you think you have the target in the barrel and all aspects centralised and secured, reclamp the rifle again making sure nothing moves. Now look through the scope and see where your crosshairs are in relation to the target. Turn up your elevation turret until you are approx. level with where you have sighted the barrel. Go between the barrel sight and scope and try to narrow down the difference in "point of impact". Adjust elevation and windage as appropriate.

Bolt in and load a round. Steady yourself and fire. Check your point of impact. Adjust your scope the necessary clicks to compesate for wind drift and high or low impact. Your scope is probably .25" click value at 100yds so don't forget you'll have half that movement at 50yds. So if you are 2" out it will take 16 clicks to move the 2" rather than the 8 clicks at 100yds. Don't forget that this is scope movement, as in straight line of sight. The trajectory of the bullet being used will determine whether the full amount of clicks is needed or if more are. Anyway load a second round after adjusting the scope and fire. You should be very close if not in the bull. Adjust scope again if necessary. Load and fire a third round. this one should be in the bull (weather and shooter permitting).

Make note of the turret markings and record them as your 50 yd zero. Now move to 100yds. Fresh target. Without adjusting the scope fire at the 100yd target. Take note of the bullet drop and adjust your scope accordingly to compensate. Fire another 2 or 3 rounds to establish a group. When you are happy with your group, record the turret markings and if possible zero the turrets and keep as your 100 yd zero. You can then move to 200 and 300 if you want. Fire and adjust the scope. Record the bullet drop and click value to compensate ans voila you have your drop chart started.

Of course you could always go for a bore sighter/ laser guide and cut out half the crap i just wrote. Whatever works for you. If you find when firing at the 50 or 100yd targets that the rifle cannot keep a group or still will not hit paper then i'm afraid it may be a bit more serious than just needing to be rezeroed. At all stages keep checking screws and making sure all items are tight.

Hope this is of some help.

clivej

All of what ezridax has said.

I would bore sight at 100m because I can at the range. Put up a taregt with a 4/5/6 inch black circle on it and with your rifle on a front rest/bi-pod and using a rear bag look down the bore and center up the circle. With out moving the gun center the cross hairs up and then add about 3MOA of up for the bullet drop.

plus..............

the Leupold Zero-Point boresighter
http://boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=63736620&postcount=4
from this thread
http://boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055783479

Centering a scopes cross-hair
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055431546