The Defender thread

101sean

A Td5 should have an opague coolant tank that you can see the level in, which is about half way. It should use OAT coolant (usually pink), a sign of low coolant is not much heat out of the heater (not that that's easy to tell in a Defender :rolleyes:)

Gauge going into red isn't right, normally the ecu will shut it down into limp home mode if it does. It's possible the viscous fan isn't working but this time of the year I'd be surprised if it needed to do anything, being a viscous fan it doesn't need any control. As Slidey says, it's possible the thermostat wasn't opening fully, it's located behind the top hose union on to the head, very easy to replace.

roman0red

Caoimhín wrote: »

Hey lads,

Listen, im a forester, i manage about 4000 hectares up here in Leitrim, Sligo, Donegal. If.yous want to come up for a forest drive, you're more than welcome!

I have roads through the woods and up Sliabh Anneriann...

Mind, bring your water-proofs...

I'm located in Nrth Roscommon - I'd take you up on a green lane excursion any weekend - name the date!

pcbscott

101sean wrote: »

A Td5 should have an opague coolant tank that you can see the level in, which is about half way. It should use OAT coolant (usually pink), a sign of low coolant is not much heat out of the heater (not that that's easy to tell in a Defender :rolleyes:)

So this got me thinking do I actually have a TD5? Upon looking at it It has to be a 300tdi, was always under the impression that it was td5

SO this must change things. Ive bought some blue stat 50/50 mix coolant will this be ok with this engine, from what Ive read it seems like this will do but that there are better alternatives.

Should I be topping up the water in the radiator? This seems obvious, but I have no idea where I add the water to!

101sean

They are totally different engines, hard to mistake! Sounds like you have either a 200 or 300 Tdi transplanted in to an earlier vehicle, I should have realised that from your earlier post, a Td5 transplant would be difficult and expensive.

Post up a picture of your engine bay. The advice still stands about the fan and thermostat which is on the front of the head where the top hos goes on. If the engine was out of a Disco it's possible the fan may have been removed and an electric one fitted. All the same I wouldn't expect it to cut in this time of the year.

The coolant you have should be OK. Put it in the expansion bottle and there should also be a plug on the top LH corner of the radiator to ensure there's no airlock.

wildefalcon

101sean wrote: »

They are totally different engines, hard to mistake! Sounds like you have either a 200 or 300 Tdi transplanted in to an earlier vehicle, I should have realised that from your earlier post, a Td5 transplant would be difficult and expensive.

Post up a picture of your engine bay. The advice still stands about the fan and thermostat which is on the front of the head where the top hos goes on. If the engine was out of a Disco it's possible the fan may have been removed and an electric one fitted. All the same I wouldn't expect it to cut in this time of the year.

The coolant you have should be OK. Put it in the expansion bottle and there should also be a plug on the top LH corner of the radiator to ensure there's no airlock.

Emm, I wonder did they change the temp sensor too? The gauges and sensors aren't the same across the range of engines, I think.

Caoimhín

roman0red wrote: »

I'm located in Nrth Roscommon - I'd take you up on a green lane excursion any weekend - name the date!

No worries, Ive roads all over Leitrim, Sligo and Roscommon. It would be a bit selfish to keep them to myself...

101sean

Good point wildefalcon, that's true for most engine transplants, need to put the old sender in the new engine. Could also be missing something simple here, could just be a dodgy sender or or an intermittent short which will send it into the red.

pcbscott, whereabouts are you, maybe another owner could have a look for you. pm me if you're anywhere near Tipp.

Caoihmin, that's a good offer. Are you happy for people just to get in touch or do want to set something up more formal? If say you wanted to set something up on a certain weekend and open it to all 4x4s, there's a sticky thread at the top for events and greenlaning.

Mycroft H

Slidey wrote: »

Do they defenders not have a viscous fan?

The thermostat could be faulty on it. Check the temp of the top and bottom hoses when it is as operating temperature. If the top hose feels colder than the bottom one the 'stat may be sticking closed

As i said i wasnt too famillar with the td5, was under the impression they replaced it with the electric fan in the TD5 compared to the viceous one the the 300/200TDI and previous engines.

Though pbscott, didnt you mention the engine was about 7 years old? that would make it a TD5, unless it was taken out of one of the build for export defenders.

THE 300TDi






THE TD5





Quite different engines really

Poly

I'm not sure if this was posted before

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEzRPXZt-uk

Poly

part deux

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFCCIlZ_3uk

roman0red

101sean wrote: »

Probably the park switch failed on. they are a cheap common Lucas part (as in common to loads of 60-90s British cars). Take the bottom dash corner panel off and you'll see the wiper motor, there will be a white plastic unit on the front of it, that's the park switch.

Edit - Do they not stop at all or is it just on intermittent? If just intermittent, it's the timer relay stuck on.

Sean,
I replaced the park swicth - no joy I'm afraid:(
The symtons are ...Wipers are on continusously - Wehn I select intermittent they operate in continuous mode; when I flick lever to off they operate continuously - when I select fast mode - speed DOES increase.
When I was at the breakers I even tried a new Wiper lever - no Joy

101sean

OK, just looked at their operation on RAVE and I think you have the wiper delay relay stuck on. If you remove the fuse cover in front of the gearlever, it should be the red relay furthest to the left. Not sure if pulling it out will allow the wipers to work normally or kill them completely. Part no is AMR2341

Cecil Mor

Hi All,

I'm seeking some info from ye Defender fanatics.

I'm considering a Defender and wondering about wheelbase options. Ideally the 110 hardtop would be most suitable for my purposes but am open to a 90 due to there being a greater selection available.
I've seen some mention that the 110 is a far thirstier beast than its shorter cousin, I assume that the only real difference is extra weight but is it so significant that fuel consumption is so much greater?

With a budget of 4500 -5000k I'm guessing late nineties 300TDi or early TD5 or am I being too optimistic?

Thanks All!!

101sean

There's next to no difference in mpg between a 90 and a 110. mpg depends on weight carried, driving style, engine tune, day of the week, phase of the moon, etc

There's so many variables, some owners claim upto 30mpg, I'm down to 23.5 as it's a 110 CSW, I carry too much crap and I really must get round to removing the roofrack :rolleyes:

110 is more useful for load carrying, space and towing. 90 is more nimble on and off road and easier to park.

Shop around, you may get a bargain, early Td5s can be cheaper than a 300tdi as some buyers prefer the tdi as there's little elektrickery involved.

roman0red

101sean wrote: »

OK, just looked at their operation on RAVE and I think you have the wiper delay relay stuck on. If you remove the fuse cover in front of the gearlever, it should be the red relay furthest to the left. Not sure if pulling it out will allow the wipers to work normally or kill them completely. Part no is AMR2341

Sean
When I open up the fuse box - I can only see 4 yellow relays and a brown relay - No red and none with a part no. of AMR2341 - checked under the drivers seat also? Its a 03 TD5

O.A.P

Cecil Mor wrote: »

Hi All,

I'm seeking some info from ye Defender fanatics.

I'm considering a Defender and wondering about wheelbase options. Ideally the 110 hardtop would be most suitable for my purposes but am open to a 90 due to there being a greater selection available.
I've seen some mention that the 110 is a far thirstier beast than its shorter cousin, I assume that the only real difference is extra weight but is it so significant that fuel consumption is so much greater?

With a budget of 4500 -5000k I'm guessing late nineties 300TDi or early TD5 or am I being too optimistic?

Thanks All!!

Its a bad time of the year to buy one( sellers market now with this weather) but with your budget you would get a 110 hardtop 300 tdi or early td5. There is no difference in MPG 90 or 110, tell us what you need it for, I have a 110 hardtop and a 90 just would not work for me at all.

101sean

Checked a newer version of RAVE, what I said was for pre 02. There's an error in the later version, had to look through every connector to find it :rolleyes:

Unfortunately in their wisdom they've shifted behind behind the left hand side of the fascia on post 02 models, possibly near the wiper motor but it's hard to tell from the photo. Looks like you'll have to do some digging and stripping, it's still the same red relay as far as I can tell.

roman0red

ok thanks - I have a root round tomorrow. I'll let you know how i get on!

101sean

Here's the relevant bit from RAVE to help you trace what wires do what, if you find one permanantly live it may help diagnose it.

Intermittent Wipe
When the wash/wipe switch is moved to the intermittent wipe position, current flows across
the switch (C1740 on LHD, C0278 on RHD) to the wiper delay ECU (C0303) on a WG wire.
The wiper delay ECU (C0303) returns a pulsed voltage signal back to the wash wipe switch
(C1740 on LHD, C0278 on RHD) on a YLG wire. The pulsed voltage signal flows through
the wash wipe switch (C1740 on LHD, C0278 on RHD) to the wiper motor (C1593 on LHD,
C0030 on RHD) on a ULG wire. The wiper motor operates at slow speed during the
intermittent wipe function.

Park Circuit
The park circuit allows the wipers to return to their park position when the wash/wipe switch
has been moved back to the off position. The park switch is integral with the wiper motor
(C1593 on LHD, C0030 on RHD), and receives an ignition feed from fuse 9 of the passenger
compartment fuse box (C0580) on a WG wire.
The park switch is open circuit when the wipers are in any position other than their park
position. When the wipers reach their park position, the switch contacts close, enabling the
ignition feed from fuse 9 of the passenger compartment fuse box to flow to the wiper delay
ECU (C0303) on an NLG wire. The wiper delay ECU (C0303) then provides a feed to the
wash/wipe switch (C1740 on LHD, C0278 on RHD) on a YLG wire. The wipers continue to
operate at slow speed (as described in the Slow Wipe section previously) until they reach
their park position. The park switch then returns to its open position, cutting the feed to the
wiper delay ECU.

roman0red

ok found the relay - it was behind the dashboard (Speedo). Unplugged it and tried starting the jeep only to find I hadn't switched off the ignition last night and now I have a flat battery :mad:

Thanks for sending on the wiring info - unfortunately I'm diyer so I'm not sure my knowledge is going to extend to testing what current is flowing thru what wire

I might head back to the breakers and see if I can get another relay I can test - thats after I charge the battery of course
Thanks Sean

Cecil Mor

O.A.P wrote: »

Its a bad time of the year to buy one( sellers market now with this weather) but with your budget you would get a 110 hardtop 300 tdi or early td5. There is no difference in MPG 90 or 110, tell us what you need it for, I have a 110 hardtop and a 90 just would not work for me at all.

I'd be considering it for general use, but I know from experience that I'd sooner have the extra space than not have it.
Bit of light off-roading & green laning thrown in with some exploring of coastal routes and similar in regards to surfing & scuba.

Can anyone recommend some good clubs/forums to aid in my research?

Thanks for the assistance folks

101sean

There are several clubs, don't know where you are based. You'll find many Irish LR fans hanging around on the Ireland section of LRA http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php

scotchy

Wheeler Dealers on Discovery channel doing up a Defender now. just stumbled accross it but wiil be starting again in half an hour on Discovery +1.

.

O.A.P

Can anybody tell me the what the lowest to highest gears are on an r380 gearbox, first in low box is the slowest, fifth in high box is the fastest but where do the other gears line up bottom to top? I can only guess but I,d like to know for sure.

101sean

Depends on the whether the transfer box is Disco or Defender, they all have the same low ratio but high differs. I'll see if I can work it out later but low third and first high are usually about the same, sort of thing you need to know starting a heavy trailer.

O.A.P

101sean wrote: »

Depends on the whether the transfer box is Disco or Defender, they all have the same low ratio but high differs. I'll see if I can work it out later but low third and first high are usually about the same, sort of thing you need to know starting a heavy trailer.

Thanks Sean and I am do a lot of towing lately its why I asked, it has a normal defender transfer box.

101sean

You'll soon get a feel for the right speed and changing from low to high without an almighty crunch.

O.A.P

101sean wrote: »

You'll soon get a feel for the right speed and changing from low to high without an almighty crunch.

That wont happen,:rolleyes: (I hope) I have driven arctics and the split box is much easier on them because the gears are numbered 1 to 8 or more depending on what your driving.
I think this is how they go anyway, 1 LB, 2 LB, 1 HB, 3 LB, 4 LB, 2 HB, 5 LB, 3 HB, 4 HB and 5 HB. Thats my best guess, its about minding the clutch when taking off and minding half shafts when slowing down.

101sean

You should know how to be sympathetic with the gears then! Your guess is probably about right not that you'd ever do that. I've only ever done L3 to H1 or 2 depending on load/gradient. To go down the T box you'd have to be really good, the usual advice is to do it stationary.

I got it wrong once when the Series 3 I was driving at the time went into high with an almighty bang, had a load of paving slabs on board I was purloining off one of my sites. Unfortunately the thrust washer I unknowingly broke decided to sit harmlessly in the bottom of the Tbox until I drove over here on hols a few months later when it decided to go through the teeth and do major damage. That was 17 years ago before internet, ebay and forums, borrowed my father's car and went back to the UK to get a replacement :rolleyes:

Mycroft H

Arrrrgh the fanbelt whine is back to haunt me -.-


Must adjust it tomorrow


(cue skint knuckles and swearing :pac: )