30 .06 rifle

monarch

have been told that the 30 .06 is a very good deer caliber, changing my gun and looking at one of these. anyone using a 30 .06 or that knows someone that is .it would be to know how this caliber is working for stalkers before i buy

rowa

monarch wrote: »

have been told that the 30 .06 is a very good deer caliber, changing my gun and looking at one of these. anyone using a 30 .06 or that knows someone that is .it would be to know how this caliber is working for stalkers before i buy

its the most popular deer round in america so that might tell you something ! most ammo is american made so they will have a vast range of weights and loads for it .

HUBERTUS

The .30-06 is one of the best calibres ever made by mortal man.
As its calibre suggests it has been around since 1906.
I have had two in 48 years of stalking and only sold one of them to buy a new .270 when the calibre ceiling was lifted from .22cfs in 1993 in Ireland.
150 grain is the optimum bullet weight in my opinion and I have shot hundreds of Deer of 6 species with it from Muntjac to Moose.
I used 180 grain Nosler Partitions on the Moose but found them much easier to kill than Sika.
The .270 is a necked down .30-06 and came out in 1924.[ I use mainly 130/140 grain re-loads in the .270 now with excellent results also. ]


HWH.

jwshooter

HUBERTUS wrote: »

The .30-06 is one of the best calibres ever made by mortal man.
As its calibre suggests it has been around since 1906.
I have had two in 48 years of stalking and only sold one of them to buy a new .270 when the calibre ceiling was lifted from .22cfs in 1993 in Ireland.
150 grain is the optimum bullet weight in my opinion and I have shot hundreds of Deer of 6 species with it from Muntjac to Moose.
I used 180 grain Nosler Partitions on the Moose but found them much easier to kill than Sika.
The .270 is a necked down .30-06 and came out in 1924.[ I use mainly 130/140 grain re-loads in the .270 now with excellent results also. ]


HWH.

and a carfully placed shot. H

Cass

Useful thread. Have bought one about 6 weeks ago and am just waiting on the licence to come through. Never fired a 30-06 before but i have a 6.5 and .308 so i'm not expecting it to be any worse. The rifle is lovely and light and looks the dogs b****. Hoping for good things and with the advice on the ammo here am getting very impatient.

The Sig Sauer 30-06 Elegance.

It wasn't me!

ezridax wrote: »

Useful thread. Have bought one about 6 weeks ago and am just waiting on the licence to come through. Never fired a 30-06 before but i have a 6.5 and .308 so i'm not expecting it to be any worse. The rifle is lovely and light and looks the dogs b****. Hoping for good things and with the advice on the ammo here am getting very impatient.

The Sig Sauer 30-06 Elegance.

.30-06 isn't too bad. You won't have any hassle with it if the .308 doesn't bother you anyway. Lovely gun. Trying to convince a friend of mine to buy one in .308.

CJhaughey

30-06 is not a bad cartridge to shoot IMO, I remember shooting one prone when I was 13 and I don't remember it being monstrous recoil.
Pretty versatile cartridge as well, I guess it must be if it can be used from Munties upwards although I hear that those little primitive deer are pretty hard to knock down.

deerhunter1

monarch wrote: »

have been told that the 30 .06 is a very good deer caliber, changing my gun and looking at one of these. anyone using a 30 .06 or that knows someone that is .it would be to know how this caliber is working for stalkers before i buy

used one for a number of years excellent calibre,now have a 308 just as good for here in ireland

sixpointfive

Have a sako 85 in 30.06 and i love it, kicks a bit more than the 243 but you dont even notice it when out in the field, im more than happy with it, i can highly recommend it and its a good step in my opinion and it will be more than enough for anything you want to shoot in Ireland or Europe, i find the Norma 150gr very good in it and am also using some 180 accubond handloads.

Bonzo78

It's surely not a bad caliber with more energy then the 6.5 and the .308
Recoil is not too bad either but surely worse then on the 6.5
Federal Hi Shok 180gr work quite well and a fairly cheap. If you want to go for something more expensive try Norma Oryx or Accubond in 180gr are good as well. If you ever get the chance to go for Wildboar Hornady Interlock 220gr would be good.

monarch

monarch wrote: »

have been told that the 30 .06 is a very good deer caliber, changing my gun and looking at one of these. anyone using a 30 .06 or that knows someone that is .it would be to know how this caliber is working for stalkers before i buy

thanks for all the info,i have tracked down a styer pro hunter in 30 06 in england at a really good price ,paperwork going through at the moment gun should be in the country in ten days to two weeks.
then i suppose the waiting game will start for the licence.

once again thanks a lot

jwshooter

monarch wrote: »

thanks for all the info,i have tracked down a styer pro hunter in 30 06 in england at a really good price ,paperwork going through at the moment gun should be in the country in ten days to two weeks.
then i suppose the waiting game will start for the licence.

once again thanks a lot

i can get you a as new fired less than 100 shots sako 75 in 30,06 with a two stocks and a set trigger .
this gun is a minter

sixpointfive

Pro hunter is a nice gun but id be diving on that sako 75, they a class tool, i would have gone for a 75 if they still made them

jwshooter

i know brand new 75 still in the box .in 25,06 .black action/synthetic stock.

jakko86

hi lads im in east clare and im looking for someone who sets a scope to my rifle i have recently bought both and mounted my scope but cant set it and its driving me mad so want some1 who does it so it will be spot on?

monarch

jwshooter wrote: »

i can get you a as new fired less than 100 shots sako 75 in 30,06 with a two stocks and a set trigger .
this gun is a minter

thanks jw can you please pm me with the price on the sako 75,

thanks again monarch

newby.204

jakko86 wrote: »

hi lads im in east clare and im looking for someone who sets a scope to my rifle i have recently bought both and mounted my scope but cant set it and its driving me mad so want some1 who does it so it will be spot on?

A persons zero on a rifle is an individual thing and having someone else zero your rifle wont neccessarily mean its zeroed for you, also when it comes to shot placement in hunting, im assuming thats what your using it for, you should be confident that you know here the round is going not where someone told you it was going to go

If you are a member of a range im sure theres someone nice enough to take the time to walk you through it, but do it yourself.

Als its very satisfying to get it zeroed yourself especially if your having problems with it.

Deer Hunter DL

witch is the better .308 or 30-06 or is it just down to what suits the person using it ??

It wasn't me!

Deer Hunter DL wrote: »

witch is the better .308 or 30-06 or is it just down to what suits the person using it ??

.30-06 is a bigger powder column, so it gives higher velocities and more recoil with a given bullet weight. It will be much more useful than a .308 where the higher weight end of the .30 calibre scale is concerned, while if you only want to use up to about 175 grain stuff, the .308 is perfect, and you won't suffer the extra recoil for your troubles. If you primarily want to shoot the 180gr up to 220gr stuff, then the .30-06 is your beastie.

Cass

jakko86 wrote: »

hi lads im in east clare and im looking for someone who sets a scope to my rifle i have recently bought both and mounted my scope but cant set it and its driving me mad so want some1 who does it so it will be spot on?

Clamp the gun in a rest. Use a level to ensure the rifle is 100% upright. Open the mounts and place them on the rail. Leave the top of the mounts off. Place a mark in the centre of each mount on the flat piece that the screws would go through. Place the scope on the open mounts and check the level of the scope (a small spirit level on the elevation turret will suffice). Lay down and ready yourself as if firing the rifle. Get comfortable. Once you are happy with your firing position have someone move the scope forward or backwarsd until you find the perfect eye relief (when the blackness, be it partial or full, goes and you get clear sight through your scope). Mark the scope in line with the marks on the mounts. Place the tops of the mounts on and screw them down but not tightly. Check the level of your scope in relation to the rifle. Both should be level in relation to vertical position and to each other. Tighten the screws in a specific order. Most mounts have 4 screws ( 2 each side) meaning you have 8 screws. Tighten down the screws so that you tighten top left a bit then bottom right. Bottom left and top right. Second from top left and second from bottom right. You'll figure out the best combination yourself. Do not try and overtighten one screws fully as the clamping effect will twist the scope in the mounts plus will take away the ability to tghten the corresponding screws. Once you have the screws tightened check the crosshairs, and eye relief to make sure nothing has moved. The scope is now mounted.

Take the rifle to a range. Place the rifle in a clamp (rests) and make sure bolt is removed. Set up at a 50 yd target. Now moving the rifle and looking down the bore/barrel centralise the target in the centre of the barrel. There should be equal distance from the edge of the target to the edge of the barrel all around. (Hope that makes sense). Once you are happy that the target is in the middle of the barrel, without moving the rifle, rise up and look down the scope to see the position of the crosshairs. If you are happy the target is centralised in the bore/barrel but the crosshairs are, say, 12 inches left and 18 inches low then, keeping the rifle clamped, turn the elevation and windage turrets the necessary amounts to bring the crosshairs up to the bullseye. The rifle now has a rough bore sight. If your club allows firing at 50 yds (with a centrefire rifle) grand if not go to a 100yd shooting position. Again clamp the rifle. Again look down the bore/barrel and get the target centralised. Look through the scope. You should be lower on the bull but very little lef or right. Bring the crosshairs up to the bull. Now replace the bolt and load one round. Fire. At most you should be 3 - 6 inches out from the bull. (you may even hit the bull). If you are out dial in the turrets the necessary clicks, but keep the gun clamped and make sure you bring the crosshairs from the bull to your impact spot of the bullet. The scope will have your adjustment settings marked on the turrets, eg. 1 click = .25 inch at 100yds. Load the rifle again with 1 round. Fire. If you are not on the bull you should be just off. Make the last finer adjustments of the scope and lod and fire a third round. By now you should be in the bull (weather conditions allowing of course). If you wish you can fire another few rounds to confirm or just for the fun of it.

You now have a 100yd zero. Remove the screws from the turrets and pull off the turrets. Turn them around so that the 0 on the turret lines up with the line on the scope. Replace the turret and tighten back up. Now your turrets are zeroed so if anyone or you moves them you can instantly return them to their zero. Move to 200yd and (without touching the turrets) fire a shot. Note the drop of the bullet. If its say 3 inches turn your elevation turret up using the clicks eg. 1 click at 100yds = .25 inches. 1 click at 200yds = .50 inches. 3 (6 X .50) inch drop at 200 yds = 6 clicks. Load and fire again. If you are a half inch or so out you can adjust 1 click up or down and fire again. Then fire a couple of rounds to check consistancy and groupage. You now have your zero for 100 and 200 yds. That should be good enough for most game to start with.

Of course you can ignore the entire lot of the second and third sections and buy a laser bore sight and it will take the eye and guess work out of it. I don't have one and as the entire process only takes about 15 minutes i didn't bother with it. I check my zero every month but as a rule once its done once you rarely have to re-do it barring a bang to your scope while out.

Originally posted by newby.204

If you are a member of a range im sure theres someone nice enough to take the time to walk you through it, but do it yourself.

Als its very satisfying to get it zeroed yourself especially if your having problems with it.

Good advice. The eye relief must suit you, nobody else. So having someone else do everything will get the rifle up and going but if you need to adjust it later you may be at a loss as to how (don't mean to insult). Whether you are or are not a member of a club go to a few clubs and i'm sure one will help you out. Try midlands in Blueball, Tullamore, Offaly. Great range, facilities, and top shooters only too willing to help.

Sorry for the novel but i think i've covered most bases.

ejg

Deer Hunter DL wrote: »

witch is the better .308 or 30-06 or is it just down to what suits the person using it ??

308 is much better up to 165gr bullet, just much more efficient. Less powder to achieve the energy. Slightly more accurate and lighter weight round. Rifle can be a short action. Does not loose speed as much as a 30-06 with shorter barrels. 308 can be run at higher pressure.

180gr and above the 30-06 has more power, but is a heavier cartridge and needs a long action.
Fed 338 again would be more efficient and more powerful than the 30-06 in a short action. Pity we can't have it.
Tikka T3 only comes in long action, in that case the 30-06 would be the prefered choice.
If one adds wild boar to the list 30-06 would also be the better choice.
For our deer, 308 and 150-165gr is just fine and the better choice.

edi

It wasn't me!

ejg wrote: »

Fed 338 again would be more efficient and more powerful than the 30-06 in a short action. Pity we can't have it.

Nothing saying you can't have it, just that you'll need to justify it above and beyond the smaller diameter calibres to your chief super.

jwshooter

ejg wrote: »

308 is much better up to 165gr bullet, just much more efficient. Less powder to achieve the energy. Slightly more accurate and lighter weight round. Rifle can be a short action. Does not loose speed as much as a 30-06 with shorter barrels. 308 can be run at higher pressure.

180gr and above the 30-06 has more power, but is a heavier cartridge and needs a long action.
Fed 338 again would be more efficient and more powerful than the 30-06 in a short action. Pity we can't have it.
Tikka T3 only comes in long action, in that case the 30-06 would be the prefered choice.
If one adds wild boar to the list 30-06 would also be the better choice.
For our deer, 308 and 150-165gr is just fine and the better choice.

edi

yes your spot on , if i had to pic one cal it would be 30,06 as my only rifle.
the 308 is a lovely cal

Cass

Looking for some advice. With the issuing of the new licenses i went down to my RFD and got the gun made up (scope, mounts, sling,etc) i'm having an issue with the bipod. I may or may not use a bipod but i would like the option.

Problem is most Harris bipods that i have or had all clip on under the stock. The S202 Elegance has the sling swivel on the foreend of the stock. I have found an adapter (Harris no6) that works for the Remington 7400 and was wondering if it would work for the Sig. Anyone had this problem or any experience with the adapter or more to the point a bipod that would fit directly onto the S202 without adapter.

Cheers.

Valmont

sixpointfive wrote: »

it will be more than enough for anything you want to shoot in Ireland or Europe

Unless you're after Elephants or other huge African game, the .30-06 seems to be the standard. I tagged along on an unsuccessful brown bear hunt in Alaska this past September and the three hunters all had .30-06s.

jwshooter

Valmont wrote: »

Unless you're after Elephants or other huge African game, the .30-06 seems to be the standard. I tagged along on an unsuccessful brown bear hunt in Alaska this past September and the three hunters all had .30-06s.

in the last few weeks i have had a few guys out with 30,06 s.

one guy is a international hunter ,its all the man does noting only hunt ,extraordinarily wealthy person also a lovely guy to spend time with .

he used a mauser 93 and the barrel he had on it was 30,06 he also has a 300wm and a 375 barrel for it .
he used 180gr partitions .killed well but a little hard i thought small exit.

another used 150gr ballistic tips ,spot on for sika stags.

another 110gr v max ,not a stag round more a precession round for necking hinds.
you could run into trouble hear, we shot a stag BEHIND the shoulder the bullet done whats meant to do , explode ! in the chest cavity the off shoulder was well blood shot but no bone damage or exit.

if we could load the 30,06 is the one cal every one should have ,saying that the 270 is hot on its heals as is the 25,06 on the 270s heals.

so in conclusion the 30,06 has a fine family

poulo6.5

30 06 sounds like it would kick like a mule . is it an accurate round

It wasn't me!

Recoil is not too bad at all, very easily tolerable. Accuracy is more than acceptable for hunting, and with good loads can be competitive as an alternative to a .308 for those who want to use heavier bullets in competition.

ejg

First time I shot a 308 it was out of a Heckler & Koch G3 which was designed to fit also the smallest soldier. That thing kicked and jumped badly. Plain horrible.
In the meantime I made myself a stock for my sako 308 hunting rifle that fits me like a glove, the recoil is like a little push now. I enjoy shooting a box or two of ammo at targets now.
A good stock can transform a heavy kicking rifle into a comfortable shooter and one does not need to increase weight either.
The recoil difference between 308,270,30-06 and even 6.5x55 is not that big. Rifle and stock will make the bigger difference.

edi